Breeding Tenebrio molitor, the mealworm, is an easy and fun (at least for me) feeder to breed. Although they should be limited from 10%-15% of your chameleon's diet, they make for a great treat and will make a great feeder for other reptiles you may have. Here are the basics:
General
Temperature: Mealworms will breed and be overall healthy at room temperature.
Humidity: Keep it mild. You do not want the substrate to mold. If this happens, you will likely lose many worms and a waste of good bran. But make sure that there is some type of moisture, so they can complete their molts and pupae cycle.
Hiding: Provide a deep substrate of rolled oats. Do not use quick rolled oats. I personally have a substrate mix of rolled oats, oat bran, and wheat germ/bran.
Diet: The substrate listed above makes a good gutload. But you should also provide a nice amount of other foods--I use a moist gutload that I make myself, and they love it. Just make sure you remove it within a day to prevent mold/bacteria growth. Mealworms tend to favor foods like apples, carrots, yams/sweet potatoes, oats/bran, greens, etc. Do not use oatmeal from hot cereal. You do not want that sugar in your mealworms or reptiles.
Housing
Container: I use a cheap plastic tub from Walmart (make sure it is clean).
Ventilation: Drill holes in the lid to prevent stagnant air and mold from wet gutloads.
Cleaning: Remove shed skins and dead worms/beetles frequently. Changing the substrate only needs to be done when it looks nasty, or when it looks powdery.
Good to Know Points
-Unlike superworms (Zophobas morio), mealworms are not cannibalistic
-They reproduce fast and easy
-They are low maintenance
-The beetles don't climb, that I have noticed (you can put packing tape around the edges of the tub if you would like)
-They can be refrigerated if you would like to slow them from pupating
Fun Facts
-Mealworms are part of the darkling beetle family
-Mealworms are high in protein, fat, and chitin (which is why they should be limited from 10%-15% of the diet)
-Mealworms have been incorporated into snacks in various parts of the world
More Important Facts
-Let the mealworms breed for a few generations before steadily feeding off
-*Some people like to separate the beetles from the larvae. You can do so by buying a 3-tier drawer/container. On the top tier, cut out the bottom and replace it with mesh. This is where the beetles will stay (when the eggs hatch, they will wiggle and fall into the second tier). In the second tier, place the larvae. When they pupate, you can place them in the bottom tier. Some people put them in separate containers in fishing tackle boxes. When they hatch, place them with the other beetles.
I hope this helped anyone who was looking to breed, or even just care for mealworms in general.
General
Temperature: Mealworms will breed and be overall healthy at room temperature.
Humidity: Keep it mild. You do not want the substrate to mold. If this happens, you will likely lose many worms and a waste of good bran. But make sure that there is some type of moisture, so they can complete their molts and pupae cycle.
Hiding: Provide a deep substrate of rolled oats. Do not use quick rolled oats. I personally have a substrate mix of rolled oats, oat bran, and wheat germ/bran.
Diet: The substrate listed above makes a good gutload. But you should also provide a nice amount of other foods--I use a moist gutload that I make myself, and they love it. Just make sure you remove it within a day to prevent mold/bacteria growth. Mealworms tend to favor foods like apples, carrots, yams/sweet potatoes, oats/bran, greens, etc. Do not use oatmeal from hot cereal. You do not want that sugar in your mealworms or reptiles.
Housing
Container: I use a cheap plastic tub from Walmart (make sure it is clean).
Ventilation: Drill holes in the lid to prevent stagnant air and mold from wet gutloads.
Cleaning: Remove shed skins and dead worms/beetles frequently. Changing the substrate only needs to be done when it looks nasty, or when it looks powdery.
Good to Know Points
-Unlike superworms (Zophobas morio), mealworms are not cannibalistic
-They reproduce fast and easy
-They are low maintenance
-The beetles don't climb, that I have noticed (you can put packing tape around the edges of the tub if you would like)
-They can be refrigerated if you would like to slow them from pupating
Fun Facts
-Mealworms are part of the darkling beetle family
-Mealworms are high in protein, fat, and chitin (which is why they should be limited from 10%-15% of the diet)
-Mealworms have been incorporated into snacks in various parts of the world
More Important Facts
-Let the mealworms breed for a few generations before steadily feeding off
-*Some people like to separate the beetles from the larvae. You can do so by buying a 3-tier drawer/container. On the top tier, cut out the bottom and replace it with mesh. This is where the beetles will stay (when the eggs hatch, they will wiggle and fall into the second tier). In the second tier, place the larvae. When they pupate, you can place them in the bottom tier. Some people put them in separate containers in fishing tackle boxes. When they hatch, place them with the other beetles.
I hope this helped anyone who was looking to breed, or even just care for mealworms in general.
