CRICKET CARE 
• Gutload crickets with apples, carrots, potatoes, squash, oranges, leafy greens, kale, collard greens, blueberries, raspberries, strawberries, kale, yams, raw uncooked pumpkin seeds, hemp seeds, small amounts of whole grain cereals, mint leaves, brewer’s yeast, wheat germ, basil, grape leaves, raw uncooked sunflower seeds, sweet potatoes, spearmint,, hibiscus leaves and flowers, papayas, mangoes, mulberries, small amounts of grapes, dandelion leaves, mustard greens, turnip greens, butternut squash, celery, alfalfa sprouts, tortoise pellets, sesame seeds, poppy seeds, flax seeds, walnuts, millet, small amounts of banana, almonds, beechnuts, alfalfa powder, escarole lettuce, bee pollen, romaine lettuce, peaches, pears, red lettuce, spirulina algae, winter squash, watermelon inner-skins, sweet peppers, bell peppers, melon, dried kelp, and other grains
• Separate the crickets you are going to feed the next day in a small container with a screen lid or a coffee filter on top and gutload those crickets the night before you feed them
• The rest of the crickets, all they need is water every day and food every once in a while
• Gutload crickets at night if you feed in the morning
• Gutload crickets in the morning if you feed at noon
• It’s better to underfeed than overfeed
• If there is leftover food, then you fed too much
• Leafy Greens – small amounts
• Rinse off food before giving to the crickets
• Use a cheese grater to cut veggies
• AVOID broccoli, lettuce, beets, tomatoes, spinach, parsley, cabbage, soy, banana peels, dog/cat food, corn, apple seeds, avocado seeds, cherry seeds, fish flakes, pinky mice, fuzzies, and feeder anoles
• Provide damp sponges, apples, potatoes, celery, watermelon, oranges, cricket water gel, damp paper towels, and/or other fruits listed for a water source
• Clean out poop every other day
• Keep in a 10 gallon tank with a screen lid (For no more than 1000 crickets) or in a big Rubbermaid Tub Container with tiny holes, screen sides, a curtain on top, cheesecloth, or coffee filters taped together
• Don’t use substrate, it reduces the possibility of odors
• Place Egg Flats, Cardboard Egg Crates, Paper Towel Rolls and/or Toilet Paper Rolls in the Container for hiding spots for the crickets
• Use a deep container (5” or taller) to put crickets into after you shake egg flats on top of the container for them to come inside of it
• 70-85 degrees F (21-29 degrees C) is what you want for your crickets, don’t keep them in your garage or basement unless you live in a pretty warm climate
• Have a balanced diet of dry and wet foods
• Repashy Bug Burger is a good diet for crickets, except other dry cricket foods do not have much nutrition in them
• To breed crickets, a breeding/egg laying container should be placed in the housing container to encourage the females to lay their eggs, put damp cotton wool, paper towels, moist sand or soil in the container
• Remove the breeding container when you see that whitish yellow eggs are laid, put them in a separate container for incubating which should be between 70-85 degrees F (21-29 degrees C) also
• The eggs will hatch in 10 days if it is kept warm
- dominicthechameleon and Rufus (My Baby Veiled)
Information from research on Chameleon Forums and other Chameleon Websites
• Gutload crickets with apples, carrots, potatoes, squash, oranges, leafy greens, kale, collard greens, blueberries, raspberries, strawberries, kale, yams, raw uncooked pumpkin seeds, hemp seeds, small amounts of whole grain cereals, mint leaves, brewer’s yeast, wheat germ, basil, grape leaves, raw uncooked sunflower seeds, sweet potatoes, spearmint,, hibiscus leaves and flowers, papayas, mangoes, mulberries, small amounts of grapes, dandelion leaves, mustard greens, turnip greens, butternut squash, celery, alfalfa sprouts, tortoise pellets, sesame seeds, poppy seeds, flax seeds, walnuts, millet, small amounts of banana, almonds, beechnuts, alfalfa powder, escarole lettuce, bee pollen, romaine lettuce, peaches, pears, red lettuce, spirulina algae, winter squash, watermelon inner-skins, sweet peppers, bell peppers, melon, dried kelp, and other grains
• Separate the crickets you are going to feed the next day in a small container with a screen lid or a coffee filter on top and gutload those crickets the night before you feed them
• The rest of the crickets, all they need is water every day and food every once in a while
• Gutload crickets at night if you feed in the morning
• Gutload crickets in the morning if you feed at noon
• It’s better to underfeed than overfeed
• If there is leftover food, then you fed too much
• Leafy Greens – small amounts
• Rinse off food before giving to the crickets
• Use a cheese grater to cut veggies
• AVOID broccoli, lettuce, beets, tomatoes, spinach, parsley, cabbage, soy, banana peels, dog/cat food, corn, apple seeds, avocado seeds, cherry seeds, fish flakes, pinky mice, fuzzies, and feeder anoles
• Provide damp sponges, apples, potatoes, celery, watermelon, oranges, cricket water gel, damp paper towels, and/or other fruits listed for a water source
• Clean out poop every other day
• Keep in a 10 gallon tank with a screen lid (For no more than 1000 crickets) or in a big Rubbermaid Tub Container with tiny holes, screen sides, a curtain on top, cheesecloth, or coffee filters taped together
• Don’t use substrate, it reduces the possibility of odors
• Place Egg Flats, Cardboard Egg Crates, Paper Towel Rolls and/or Toilet Paper Rolls in the Container for hiding spots for the crickets
• Use a deep container (5” or taller) to put crickets into after you shake egg flats on top of the container for them to come inside of it
• 70-85 degrees F (21-29 degrees C) is what you want for your crickets, don’t keep them in your garage or basement unless you live in a pretty warm climate
• Have a balanced diet of dry and wet foods
• Repashy Bug Burger is a good diet for crickets, except other dry cricket foods do not have much nutrition in them
• To breed crickets, a breeding/egg laying container should be placed in the housing container to encourage the females to lay their eggs, put damp cotton wool, paper towels, moist sand or soil in the container
• Remove the breeding container when you see that whitish yellow eggs are laid, put them in a separate container for incubating which should be between 70-85 degrees F (21-29 degrees C) also
• The eggs will hatch in 10 days if it is kept warm
- dominicthechameleon and Rufus (My Baby Veiled)
Information from research on Chameleon Forums and other Chameleon Websites
