This blog is being created to help others with keeping montane chameleons. All the suggestions put forth in this blog are my up to date keeping methods. Since husbandry constantly requires tweaking, I will continually update this blog. I do not intend on making this blog extensive and long, instead I will try my best to make it a very simplified resource. Therefore it should not be used as a key resource. I am simply showing the keeping methods I use, which means that other keepers may have slight differences in their husbandry habits.
Carpet and Rudis chameleons are montane species chameleons that dwell in cool temperatures, with high humidity. I keep my rudis and carpet in identical setups.
Cage: 16x15x20 full screen cages are very suitable for these chameleons.
Temperature: Basking spot should be kept around 82 degrees. Remember these chameleons prefer cool temperatures, not hot. Its better to be a little underneath (80 degrees), rather than a little above (85 degrees). The bottom of the cage should be cooler than the basking cage (around low 70s or upper 60s). No night heat lamp is required, these chameleons can handle very low temperatures.
Humidity: Humidity needs to be kept high. I have constant humidity levels around 70 percent and during mistings, levels rise to about 90 percent. I able able to keep high humidity levels even in very dry climates, through the use of my Mistking and DIY humidifier (which can be found in my blog). Since these chameleons are found in areas with very high humidity, one can assume that they are less prone to respiratory infection; however, you should still keep a look out for early symptoms and you should provide proper air circulation.
Lighting: UVB lighting is essential. The reptisun 5.0 tube is the best available light. For basking bulbs lower wattage, incandescent, soft-white bulbs can be found for very cheap in any hardware store (you will most likely have to elevate the lamp several inches above the cage so that the basking area is not too hot).
Plants and Decor: Live plants should be used, preferably ficus or umbrella tree. Plants like pothos are made up of mostly large leaves, that do not provide sturdy support for climbing chameleons. Fake plant vines and climbing vines should be placed throughout the cages.
Feeding: These chameleons can eats loads, despite their small size. I feed my adult rudis and carpet roughly 2 feeders everyday (depending on the size of the feeders). Be sure to check that each feeder is not to large. Some people suggest that using the space between the eyes is a good gauge; however, I have found that these chameleons can handle close to twice the size of the space between their eyes.
Supplementing: Supplementing rudis and carpets is very different from supplementing other chameleons. Some keepers never supplement their rudis/carpets, whereas other keepers supplement their rudis/carpets very little. Dust feeders with calcium twice a month, with calcium D3 once a month and with herptivite once a month.
Carpet and Rudis chameleons are montane species chameleons that dwell in cool temperatures, with high humidity. I keep my rudis and carpet in identical setups.
Cage: 16x15x20 full screen cages are very suitable for these chameleons.
Temperature: Basking spot should be kept around 82 degrees. Remember these chameleons prefer cool temperatures, not hot. Its better to be a little underneath (80 degrees), rather than a little above (85 degrees). The bottom of the cage should be cooler than the basking cage (around low 70s or upper 60s). No night heat lamp is required, these chameleons can handle very low temperatures.
Humidity: Humidity needs to be kept high. I have constant humidity levels around 70 percent and during mistings, levels rise to about 90 percent. I able able to keep high humidity levels even in very dry climates, through the use of my Mistking and DIY humidifier (which can be found in my blog). Since these chameleons are found in areas with very high humidity, one can assume that they are less prone to respiratory infection; however, you should still keep a look out for early symptoms and you should provide proper air circulation.
Lighting: UVB lighting is essential. The reptisun 5.0 tube is the best available light. For basking bulbs lower wattage, incandescent, soft-white bulbs can be found for very cheap in any hardware store (you will most likely have to elevate the lamp several inches above the cage so that the basking area is not too hot).
Plants and Decor: Live plants should be used, preferably ficus or umbrella tree. Plants like pothos are made up of mostly large leaves, that do not provide sturdy support for climbing chameleons. Fake plant vines and climbing vines should be placed throughout the cages.
Feeding: These chameleons can eats loads, despite their small size. I feed my adult rudis and carpet roughly 2 feeders everyday (depending on the size of the feeders). Be sure to check that each feeder is not to large. Some people suggest that using the space between the eyes is a good gauge; however, I have found that these chameleons can handle close to twice the size of the space between their eyes.
Supplementing: Supplementing rudis and carpets is very different from supplementing other chameleons. Some keepers never supplement their rudis/carpets, whereas other keepers supplement their rudis/carpets very little. Dust feeders with calcium twice a month, with calcium D3 once a month and with herptivite once a month.
