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Insects can take a relatively high calcium peecentage long term as well as long as they are provided with other food sources and lots of inert foods as well i suppose. Kind of like... i have always raise my insects of a ratio to 3:1 calcium to phos. But they grew well. Low animak protein, high...

This is just part of some of the research ive been doing (there isnt a lot of it so far that ive found, looking for more scientific papers only found like 4) https://www.jstor.org/stable/44211898 Im not necessarily thinking of it as a forceful gutload but as a gutload to use over their lived...

Apparently insects naturally avoid high oxalate foods. Its a natural defensive mechanism that inhibits their growth when high enough. So if we give them a choice if the food is high enough to affect them they should naturally choose something low oxalate. However when does something become high...

Calcium ratio sits at about 3:1 Oxalates are relatively low at 100 mg per 2oz and the high percentage of calcium helps balance out the binding of oxalates into kidney stones.

Repashy supps is the low D ones just two teaspoons in a batch that was three lbs. And spinach just a little over an 1/8 of a cup. Think it physically weighed to be like .2 oz. Broccoli is a little less.

I have another extra 17 oz of the dry gutload i use for my insects. I use it for everything from superworms, mealworms, roaches, crickets, and anything else considered a dry grain eater. Ingredients (listed from most to least): Alfalfa, ground hemp hearts, ground chia seeds, ground flax seed...

Excelsior works, ive also used a light amount of fluffed hiawatha moss... but i think thats it.

Fruit fly cultures CAN get overloaded but thats not enough larvae for a crash imo. Ive had far more as long as there is enough things for the flies to stand on and food they were fine. Ive never removed dead flies so i wouldnt >.>

Honestly fruit flies dont live long, so it depends on how old your flies were, also thats not that many flies. Keep your culture it looks prolific so it may just be in a weird part of its cycle. Dont keep it too warm or too cold too mucb heat create humidity, mold, and ages the flues faster...

However i also use my heatmats on thermostats. >.> but then again breeding insects and having belly heat digesters is a different ball game. Its like how when i had socrpions they actually required basking lamp and not a uth

Heat mats need elevation or ventilation if put on the bottom ofnsomething, they can and do crack glass tanks without it. On the side they expell most the heat outward and arent an issue

My two big colonies, and big eater, finished off their bowls of food for the most part. There is a small amount in the Roth's burrower bowl still but its only enough for one or two roaches. The hissers ate maybe a quarter of theirs. But im not surprised. They are a smaller colony but also dainty...

Cyanide is only truly a problem in bitter almonds which can give you cyanide poisoning. I only use 1 cup of almond meal in this. And since its sweet almonds its not enough to become even close to an issue. (Ive had to research almonds due to rodent food)

I've got an extra 17oz from this batch that i wont be able to use so your welcome to pm me.

Almond meal provides protein and almonds have good omega balance and high polyunsaturated fats. They are high in vit e and also are a good source of manganese and magnesium. Broccoli is one ofnthe vegetables i rotate regularly in and out of this gutload. I am not someone who avoids oxalates but...

happy bebes

17 oz bagged up, another 4 portions to go, successfully made bug chow.

I agree with you too Kinyonga, that I think new keepers need a baseline to start, somewhere to get comfortable, and then look at what does MY cham possibly need, where are they showing signs of distress and why? I think it's why we see a lot of questions in the health forum that sometimes are...

I agree with your vet but almost would individualize them more. So Ryker was my original panther, came from Kammersflage, had amazing breeding, was a great healthy boy. At 5 years old he started showing snow blindness with 6% uvb bulb that had nothing wrong with it and was about... 2 months...

I do sell the excess i make but likely wont for another.... few months as i figure out ratios and percentages. I aim for 10-12% plant protein which targets most species needs of protein but also rides the safety zone of not too much especially since most of the amino acid chains are incomplete