Search results

I agree with alphakenc, and would also suggest that you raise your chams cage off the floor. They are arboreal and will feel much more comfortable a few feet off the floor at least.

I have several chams and it only takes me a few minutes each day to feed, then a couple hours on the weekend to do maintainence. It'll all come with experience. Trust me you'll be nervous as hell for the first few months and constantly checking/changing your enclosure, but if you follow the...

Absolutely not. The male will be constantly trying to breed while the female will never be receptive. It will result in serious injury. Separate enclosures are a must.

Even within the same clutches my chams weight vary. I have two females at the moment that hatched at the exact same time, and that have the exact same feeding/supplementation schedule. One is 38 grams and the other is 24 grams. As with any animal, individual genetics often determine growth...

Every one of my six veiled chams run to eat any dandelion greens and flowers I put in their cages. Just be sure they have no pesticide/herbicide on them. I grow some in a pot outside on the deck. I also feed kale, strawberry, and very thin slices of squash from time to time. It's a great way to...

I'm sure the juveniles would be great feeders, but even my 321 gram male veiled would have trouble with a full size hisser. I'd probably avoid trying to get him to choke one down.

I've tried many different methods but the one I've had the most success with is as follows: Separate about fifty females and ten males (depending on how many crickets you want) and put them in a five gallon bucket with about two inches of moist substrate. (I use a mix of peat and sand) this...

Closing their eyes during the day can be a sign of a few different problems. First off I'd get rid of the substrate. Unless it's bio active (isopods,springtails) it will only harbour bacteria and make cleaning difficult. You'll have to start gutloading your crickets with a variety of fruits...

I agree with jajeanpierre. She looks to be around five months old right now. A 2 1/2 month old cham wouldn't have that much mass on their legs and tail but it's difficult to tell from the photo. How long is her body excluding the tail?

I agree he looks very healthy. They will refuse to eat from time to time. He looks like he has a good weight so, as said above, I wouldn't worry until you start to see decline in weight, or other obvious health issues.

UVA includes much of the visible spectrum of light and is generally harmless, and can pass through glass. UVA is emitted by most lights, no matter what. UVB is on the end of the spectrum and is responsible for vitamin d production in most animals (including us). It's also what gives us sunburns...

You're sure they're fertile? How long have they been in the incubator? What temp, type of substrate, ratio of water to substrate etc? It's common for eggs to sweat and sink in just before hatching but that takes months for most species.

This is absolutely imperative when keeping females in my opinion. I reduce feeding to every other day, reduce amount fed at one time to about 60% (about 8 medium crickets), and lower the basking temp to about 83 degrees when my females turn 6 months old. My average clutch size is about 30...

He looks quite skinny and should have been consuming around twenty feeders everyday up to seven months old or so. Also you still haven't adopted the widely accepted supplement schedule recommended by these forums. And (even though you said no hate) there should be NO lights at night at all...

I suspect if you stop offering mealworms and begin feeding a variety of insects he'll come around. They often get addicted to one type of food if it's constantly available, then will refuse it when they get sick of it. Rotation is key.

He looks great! With my males I generally feed everyday until eight or nine months, then I watch their casques to see how much fat they're storing. You'll notice a bulge in either side of the casque (I start to notice this around one year old usually) and you can adjust your schedule based on...

It's difficult to find an average weight on adult chameleons. They vary as does any organism. At the moment I have a female that is 147 grams, and a female of the same age that is 91 grams. Both are as healthy as can be. I also have George, my MASSIVE 310 gram male (not much fat on him...

Just my two cents but whenever I have to buy crickets from a pet store, they never survive as long as the ones I buy from online breeders, or the ones I breed myself. I have a theory that the bins they keep crickets in at the pets stores don't get cleaned as well or as often as they do in my...

He is in rough shape but he isn't hopeless unless his organs shut down, which is a very real possibility in his dehydrated/emaciated condition. He absolutely needs fluids, and at this point I would choose to force feed/water him if you can't get a vet to put in an IV very soon. Mix 1 part...

I've kept water dragons before and while wonderful, they take a slight bit more work than a chameleon, in that they foul water VERY quickly, much like green iguanas. If you do decide to get one, build or buy your enclosure for easy cleaning/draining of the water features because you'll be doing...