You don't need to feed variety in everyday- just overall variety.
If you were to pick maybe 5 prey choices, that would be fine. Those could be crickets, silkworms, superworms, roaches as your most often offered, and rotate the fifth choice (terrestrial isopods, hornworms, snails, blue bottle...
what temperature is she being kept at?
what type of prey are you offering?
Its not abnormal for a female to seek more food than is necessary for good health.
can you post a couple photos? might help us help you see if she's on the plump side.
Tail should be oval, rather than fat...
it would be helpful to post a photo
and couldn't hurt if you gave detailed answers to all the questions in the How To Ask For Help sticky questionnaire: https://www.chameleonforums.com/how-ask-help-66/
sometimes just stabbing small pieces onto the ends of branches in the cage will work.
Sometimes putting little pieces in a bowl that the chameleon already associates with food (insects) will work.
you may find this link useful...
good but not new info (to me anyways)
you may also find this link interesting: http://www.geckotime.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/table-large.png
but its not just about the lab numbers - Im told digestibility plays a significant role too. For example, hissing roaches (which are a great...
You dont have to gutload anything - but you should. Superworms can be gutloaded, they just dont have the capacity of things like crickets and roaches.
not recommended for supers to be staples.
Indeed I would suggest the word staple be eliminated from your (meaning anyone's) routine. Have...
not poisonous, but also not very nutritious. Worry not. Just gutload better nexttime and dont offer too many of them (i suggest keep supers and mealworms under 20% of total diet)
I agree - many possibilities
Any vet lab tech (even one that looks at dogs or sheep) might be able to look at a sample and perhaps narrow the possibilities down.
But I think there likely ARE vets in your country who look at reptiles. for example: Istanbul Turkey Veterinary Hospital indicates...
for a baby chameleon, try a combination of fruit flies (wingless have no wings, flightless have wings they don't use); tropical terrestrial isopods or baby natives (pill bugs, rollie pollie, wood sow) captive cultured; baby termites; grain moths; bean beetles; tiny mealworms; baby silkworms...
youre welcome
yes they will eat most peel, although typically peels are not recommended. some are high in oxalic acid, many are likely to have pesticide residue, some have limited nutritional value.
The fluckers product is not very good, IMO
Here are some links to gutloading info you should find useful:
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/sandrachameleon/659-green-leafy-goodness-gutloading.html...
agree - that's an awesome build.
here area a couple of similar idea (smaller scale):
https://www.chameleonforums.com/svens-castle-lots-pics-10677/#post84795
https://www.chameleonforums.com/terrarium-pictures-23200/
also worth looking at...
How are you gutloading those larva? its a pretty limited diet.
You don't need D3 every day, assuming your lighting provides UVB, so it could be an imbalance between D and vitamin A. Reducing the D and a temporary increase in A might help.
he doesn't look too thin. How long since his last...