5.0 or 10.0?
- Thread starter Anniel
- Start date
xraygirl
Established Member
Most folks suggest the tube style lighting, as the compact bulbs caused eye problems before. The problem has supposedly been corrected, but I think folks are still shy of it. The tube lighting is better coverage over the cage in my opinion. The compacts are very bright and 'compact' in their lighting. I'd stick with the tube style.
mrgreen22
Member
Hey guys so I have a 4 1/2 month old male panther chameleon. I need to get a different UVB so do I get the dessert 10.0 or the tropical 5.0? Thanks!
Only use 5.0 for chameleons!!
Olimpia
Biologist & Ecologist
You can use the 10.0 just fine, it's not really a desert-strength bulb. The screen from the cages cuts down the UVB that makes it through by quite a bit, and the 10.0 produces about twice as much UVB as the 5.0 which means that you lose less through the screen and it'll last longer. But it doesn't even produce as much UVB as the Arcadia 6% bulbs that are becoming so popular with chameleons, for example, they just have a bad reputation due to the desert packaging.
I haven't used anything weaker than a linear ReptiSUN 10.0 for years, for all my chameleons. (Reptisun brand is better/stronger than the Reptiglo bulbs)
As a note though - all cages should have areas of more openness and more plant cover, so the chameleon can choose how much UVB to bask under, just like they have to have opportunities to bask at different temperatures.
I haven't used anything weaker than a linear ReptiSUN 10.0 for years, for all my chameleons. (Reptisun brand is better/stronger than the Reptiglo bulbs)
As a note though - all cages should have areas of more openness and more plant cover, so the chameleon can choose how much UVB to bask under, just like they have to have opportunities to bask at different temperatures.
Anniel
New Member
I purchased both a reptisun 5.0 UVB mini compact & a 10.0 mini compact. Do you think the compacts are good to use or should I be using something else? Thanks for the info!
broderp
Avid Member
How does a chameleon know he's getting UVB and at a specific strength? Can they some how sense it like heat?
Olimpia
Biologist & Ecologist
I prefer the linear fluorescents, they spread the UVB over the entire cage and that gives the chameleon the option of basking under both bulbs or under just the UVB and not the heat as well. I've never used the compacts so I don't know how much I would like them.
And yes, chameleons can sense UVB and regulate how much they convert into vitamin D in their skin.
And yes, chameleons can sense UVB and regulate how much they convert into vitamin D in their skin.
broderp
Avid Member
Words to live by from a professional.
I just picked up a ReptiSUN 10.0 bulb based on Olympia's post as well as some help from MelissaB on the forum. I was thinking the 10.0 Reptisun would be adequate, but my noob-slf didn't want to speak out of turn. I currenly use a "desert" 26W compact fourecent in my dome. The ReptiSUN 10.0 HO UVB can be had less than $25 shipped, so I couldn't justify the near $40 price of an Arcadia bulb.
I have to wonder though, are we as a commuity doing a disservice by using 5.0 bulbs thru mesh screens? If a 10.0 UVB if fine due to loss through the screen, then wouldn't the inherent loss of a 5.0 be the same, hence putting the availbale UVB available to our chams really low? Dangerously low?
Olimpia
Biologist & Ecologist
Personally, I do kind of think so. I've checked my bulbs with a Solarmeter and even after 6 months they're still producing really decent levels of UVB through the screen. But I worry that by then a 5.0 really may not be, or has been producing "bare minimum" UVB for a while. I don't have a chart in front of me of readings to offer up as proof, but that's certainly my feeling.
More than anything I think we're doing ourselves a disservice but being reluctant as a community to recommend anything besides the classic 5.0. Yes, I know the box says "desert" and this scares people, but we know that the 10.0s are safe. We also know that the Arcadia 6% bulb puts out even MORE UVB than a 10.0, yet those are the holy grail of reptile lighting and the 10.0 is the enemy. I would love to see Solarmeter comparisons of different bulbs combined and made into a sticky, personally.
DirtyDubbz
New Member
I prefer the tube lighting as stated above it give full coverage and the 10.0 is fine for larger cages taller than 30" but make sure he or she has space to get shade if it dosent want the light also I use the zoomed t5 reptisun 5.0 in my 24x24x48 but once the light goes in 5 months I will be switching to the arcadia 6.0 hope that helps
hope that helpsI would really like to see that too. I was really uncertain when buying a new UVB bulb for Yuki's new vivarium. I opted for the 10.0 because of the mesh and how tall the vivarium is, but it's very confusing all the same. A stickied post with readings, suggestions, etc. would be amazing!
Psychobunny
Avid Member
I also did some testing using my Solarmeter 6.5, and this is what I found.
These readings were taken using Reptibreeze screen cages:
Reptisun 5% measured 5.0 at 6'' w/o screen
measured at 6'' through the screen was 3.0
Repeat the above, only this time, 10'' away:
w/o screen 3.0
with screen 1.0
Arcadia HO 6% at 6'' w/o screen was 6.0
measured through screen was 6.0
At 10'' w/o screen was 5.0
with screen was 4.0
More than 10'' away from UVB source, the Reptisun did not even register on the meter, and the Arcadia 6% HO reading was 1.0.
Of course, I only tested 3 samples of each, and the Arcadia was consistant, but the Reptisun was not. Brand new 5% Reptisun bulbs, measured at 6'', and not filtered through screen was 3.0 to 5.5 on the Solarmeter.
Conclusion, HO bulbs do not loose UVB through screen at 6''. Past 10'', the UVB reading drops, past 10'', reading are very low.
These readings were taken using Reptibreeze screen cages:
Reptisun 5% measured 5.0 at 6'' w/o screen
measured at 6'' through the screen was 3.0
Repeat the above, only this time, 10'' away:
w/o screen 3.0
with screen 1.0
Arcadia HO 6% at 6'' w/o screen was 6.0
measured through screen was 6.0
At 10'' w/o screen was 5.0
with screen was 4.0
More than 10'' away from UVB source, the Reptisun did not even register on the meter, and the Arcadia 6% HO reading was 1.0.
Of course, I only tested 3 samples of each, and the Arcadia was consistant, but the Reptisun was not. Brand new 5% Reptisun bulbs, measured at 6'', and not filtered through screen was 3.0 to 5.5 on the Solarmeter.
Conclusion, HO bulbs do not loose UVB through screen at 6''. Past 10'', the UVB reading drops, past 10'', reading are very low.
broderp
Avid Member
Good info. I think Olympia is right, we need to have a sticky of this info somewhere's that is updated and as accurate as we can be.
I'm curious as to how much the reading would change if using metal mesh vs. nylon vs open metal covers such as those commonly used in aquariums.
It's good to know that at around 10" the UVB dissipates greatly or is unreadable. I was concerned about having to make a "UVB safe zone" to give my cham an option to bask in it or not. Looks like if he doesn't want it, he can always move further down his terrarium until he doesn't sense it. At 10" my exo terra is still about 83F.
Psychobunny
Avid Member
I think they are T8's, and I have never tried the Reptisun HO bulbs.
Yes, I think the UVB loss would have a lot to do with the screen mesh.
I also noticed (on 2 bulbs) that the UVB readings start to drop after about 6 months of use (I mean the Arcadia 6%).
I know they are advertised as lasting a year or more, but my testing seems to indicate that is not quit right.
When I got my new panther a month or so ago, I checked the bulb that was already on his cage, it was a little over 6 months old, and at 6'' I only got a reading of 4.0. So I bought a new bulb to replace it, and the reading was 6.0, like it should be.
So, bottom line is, I am checking all the UVB bulbs monthly at the basking possition instead of relying on the "change every 6 months" rule.
Yes, I think the UVB loss would have a lot to do with the screen mesh.
I also noticed (on 2 bulbs) that the UVB readings start to drop after about 6 months of use (I mean the Arcadia 6%).
I know they are advertised as lasting a year or more, but my testing seems to indicate that is not quit right.
When I got my new panther a month or so ago, I checked the bulb that was already on his cage, it was a little over 6 months old, and at 6'' I only got a reading of 4.0. So I bought a new bulb to replace it, and the reading was 6.0, like it should be.
So, bottom line is, I am checking all the UVB bulbs monthly at the basking possition instead of relying on the "change every 6 months" rule.
broderp
Avid Member
Good question. You read my mind. lol
I'm sure the Arcadia bulbs are good, but your basic check tells me they are not perfect.
I wish those UVB meters were not so expensive. I'd love to test the brands and see how they fare over time and get a real one on one comparison. See who really has the best bang for the buck.
I'm curious how the T5's would compare...
deadhd5
Avid Member
I switched to 10.0 T5HO UVB bulbs and simultaneously reduced the amount of D3 supplementation. My thinking is that 10.0 should provide sufficient UVB to convert to D3 and the chameleon can regulate the amount of UVB easily by moving in and out of the light (I keep the basking area separate from the UVB light so my chams can regulate their temps without taking in UVB).
Chams cannot regulate the amount of D3 taken in by supplement so I think providing a strong source of UVB and decreasing D3 supplementation more closely mimics their experience in nature. I have not seen any negative effects on my chams from this change, although this change was made when my chams were already adults.
Chams cannot regulate the amount of D3 taken in by supplement so I think providing a strong source of UVB and decreasing D3 supplementation more closely mimics their experience in nature. I have not seen any negative effects on my chams from this change, although this change was made when my chams were already adults.
