Abnormal shedding

jubanman

Member
My chameleon was shedding around 1 week ago, but then randomly stopped in the middle, plz help.

If you notice any health concerns in the pictures, please tell me.
 

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I'm sorry to say this but it looks to me that your chameleon has MBD :(

@Beman @kinyonga @MissSkittles
Yes, that is what it looks like. 😞
@jubanman If you could fill out the following someone can review your husbandry and help make any needed upgrades.

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
 
Yes, that is what it looks like. 😞
@jubanman If you could fill out the following someone can review your husbandry and help make any needed upgrades.

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
I am pretty sure it is a female, and is around 1 year old. I'll include some pictures so you can determine. I got it last October, I am feeding my cham crickets from petsmart. I don't know what gut loading is, but if that means what am I feeding the crickets, it is the flukers orange cube diet. I barely take him out of his cage, maybe once a week. I put crickets whenever I don't see any in his cage. And I just grab an egg carton, and shake some into his cage. I don't dust my feeders with anything, I just give them the orange cubes. To help him drink water, I spray the leaves with a spray bottle, and he licks the droplets off of the leaves. I do this 3 times a day. I haven't seen him poop recently, I just cleaned his cage out. My brother got him for free off of a Craigslist ad, and he couldn't take care of it so he gave it to me. He hasn't been to a vet check up. i included pictures that include cage info, but the temps and humidity I am not sure. I don't have anything to measure it.my cage is inside of a closet with no vents. My chameleon is in my room upstairs of my house. He is on the same level as me. I live in Lansing, Michigan
 

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Okay, so you need to make quite a few changes. Putting my feedback in red. I’m going to sound critical and please don’t take me as mean...I’m not and don’t mean to be. I’m just blunt. I understand that this is the set up you received with her, and that your brother received. You are here which is absolutely wonderful and we love helping new keepers make things better for their chameleons.
I am pretty sure it is a female, and is around 1 year old. Are you aware she will be laying eggs regardless of whether she’s been mated? I’ll go over that separately. I'll include some pictures so you can determine. I got it last October, I am feeding my cham crickets from petsmart. I don't know what gut loading is, but if that means what am I feeding the crickets, it is the flukers orange cube diet. Technically true gutloading is feeding the bugs within a hour or few before giving to your cham. However, many of us don’t practice that precisely. I keep my feeders well fed with fresh produce all the time so that they are healthy bugs, and therefore a better source of nutrition for my cham. Attaching feeder and gutloading sheets. The cricket cubes aren’t good for more than hydration.
I barely take him out of his cage, maybe once a week. I put crickets whenever I don't see any in his cage. And I just grab an egg carton, and shake some into his cage. You really need to give only a certain number of feeders. Obesity is a real problem for chams and especially veileds. Also, for females over feeding can lead to serious complications with egg laying. I don't dust my feeders with anything, I just give them the orange cubes. Your cham needs supplements. There’s many different regimens but I’m going to give you the easiest to follow. Every feeding lightly dust the feeders with a phosphorus free calcium without D3...except one feeding every other week. That one feeding you’ll want to use Reptivite WITH D3. This is one of the reasons that your chameleon has mbd and possibly some other issues that aren’t visible. To help him drink water, I spray the leaves with a spray bottle, and he licks the droplets off of the leaves. I do this 3 times a day. Perfect! I haven't seen him poop recently, I just cleaned his cage out. My brother got him for free off of a Craigslist ad, and he couldn't take care of it so he gave it to me. He hasn't been to a vet check up. As I think you do have a female and she does have mbd, I suggest a vet visit. She may need a calcium injection or special supplementation to get her body recovered. i included pictures that include cage info, but the temps and humidity I am not sure. It’s essential to know and monitor temps and humidity. Basking temps should be no higher than 80* with a drop at night. She can handle a night time temp drop as low as 55-60. Humidity during the day should be between 30-50%, which is actually much drier than you’d think. I don't have anything to measure it.my cage is inside of a closet with no vents. My only concern for being in a closet is air ventilation. Stagnant air can lead to respiratory infection. My chameleon is in my room upstairs of my house. He is on the same level as me. I live in Lansing, Michigan
Looking at your enclosure, it’s quite bare. All of that empty space needs to be filled with branches, vines and live plants. It needs to look like a tree. The best/easiest plants are pothos and philodendron. Your cham will eat at her plants, so they need to be real and safe. Attaching plant list. The Repti carpet is just a bacterial breeding ground...bare floor is best. It looks like you have a chameleon kit enclosure...you’ll need a larger one...a minimum of 2x2x4’.
The other contributing factor to mbd is the uvb is inadequate. The screw in bulbs aren’t capable of providing the proper range of uvb except for just a few inches away. You need a T5 fixture as long as the enclosure is wide with a 5.0 or Arcadia 6% uvb bulb. Basking area needs to be approx 8-9” below basking light and uvb. Now, the red bulb. Colored lights are bad for sensitive chameleon eyes. Many of us use an old fashioned incandescent light bulb for basking. They are getting harder to find and led don’t put off the heat. I’d say start with a 60w bulb and see what temps that gives you. No lights or additional heat at night (unless your room temps get below 55*.
I need to get ready for work but will be back later to go over the egg laying stuff.
In the meantime, check out all of the modules here https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/ and Neptune the chameleon on YouTube is another great source of info.

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Okay, so you need to make quite a few changes. Putting my feedback in red. I’m going to sound critical and please don’t take me as mean...I’m not and don’t mean to be. I’m just blunt. I understand that this is the set up you received with her, and that your brother received. You are here which is absolutely wonderful and we love helping new keepers make things better for their chameleons.
I am pretty sure it is a female, and is around 1 year old. Are you aware she will be laying eggs regardless of whether she’s been mated? I’ll go over that separately. I'll include some pictures so you can determine. I got it last October, I am feeding my cham crickets from petsmart. I don't know what gut loading is, but if that means what am I feeding the crickets, it is the flukers orange cube diet. Technically true gutloading is feeding the bugs within a hour or few before giving to your cham. However, many of us don’t practice that precisely. I keep my feeders well fed with fresh produce all the time so that they are healthy bugs, and therefore a better source of nutrition for my cham. Attaching feeder and gutloading sheets. The cricket cubes aren’t good for more than hydration.
I barely take him out of his cage, maybe once a week. I put crickets whenever I don't see any in his cage. And I just grab an egg carton, and shake some into his cage. You really need to give only a certain number of feeders. Obesity is a real problem for chams and especially veileds. Also, for females over feeding can lead to serious complications with egg laying. I don't dust my feeders with anything, I just give them the orange cubes. Your cham needs supplements. There’s many different regimens but I’m going to give you the easiest to follow. Every feeding lightly dust the feeders with a phosphorus free calcium without D3...except one feeding every other week. That one feeding you’ll want to use Reptivite WITH D3. This is one of the reasons that your chameleon has mbd and possibly some other issues that aren’t visible. To help him drink water, I spray the leaves with a spray bottle, and he licks the droplets off of the leaves. I do this 3 times a day. Perfect! I haven't seen him poop recently, I just cleaned his cage out. My brother got him for free off of a Craigslist ad, and he couldn't take care of it so he gave it to me. He hasn't been to a vet check up. As I think you do have a female and she does have mbd, I suggest a vet visit. She may need a calcium injection or special supplementation to get her body recovered. i included pictures that include cage info, but the temps and humidity I am not sure. It’s essential to know and monitor temps and humidity. Basking temps should be no higher than 80* with a drop at night. She can handle a night time temp drop as low as 55-60. Humidity during the day should be between 30-50%, which is actually much drier than you’d think. I don't have anything to measure it.my cage is inside of a closet with no vents. My only concern for being in a closet is air ventilation. Stagnant air can lead to respiratory infection. My chameleon is in my room upstairs of my house. He is on the same level as me. I live in Lansing, Michigan
Looking at your enclosure, it’s quite bare. All of that empty space needs to be filled with branches, vines and live plants. It needs to look like a tree. The best/easiest plants are pothos and philodendron. Your cham will eat at her plants, so they need to be real and safe. Attaching plant list. The Repti carpet is just a bacterial breeding ground...bare floor is best. It looks like you have a chameleon kit enclosure...you’ll need a larger one...a minimum of 2x2x4’.
The other contributing factor to mbd is the uvb is inadequate. The screw in bulbs aren’t capable of providing the proper range of uvb except for just a few inches away. You need a T5 fixture as long as the enclosure is wide with a 5.0 or Arcadia 6% uvb bulb. Basking area needs to be approx 8-9” below basking light and uvb. Now, the red bulb. Colored lights are bad for sensitive chameleon eyes. Many of us use an old fashioned incandescent light bulb for basking. They are getting harder to find and led don’t put off the heat. I’d say start with a 60w bulb and see what temps that gives you. No lights or additional heat at night (unless your room temps get below 55*.
I need to get ready for work but will be back later to go over the egg laying stuff.
In the meantime, check out all of the modules here https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/ and Neptune the chameleon on YouTube is another great source of info.

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I know about the egg laying, and what I have to do about that. Can you please send me the links of where to find these things?
 
I know about the egg laying, and what I have to do about that. Can you please send me the links of where to find these things?
Ok so for the egg laying, I understand you know that situation, I have a male so if anyone needs to correct me go ahead but I hear the best thing to use when making an egg laying bin is reptile play sand such as this: https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petco...1ljtLeQbB9jX9nCV_rIaAj2aEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

As for supplements you want to give them calcium without d3 or phosphorus every feeding and multivitamins with d3 2x a month say the 1st and the 15th of every month. good brands are these: https://www.chewy.com/flukers-calcium-without-vitamin-d3/dp/126184?utm_source=google-product&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=f&utm_content=Fluker's&utm_term=&gclid=Cj0KCQiA88X_BRDUARIsACVMYD-x6WVDKY0ZVZIQ9sTUpTyoOErS6VkWV6cuxOEU_bROdHaxvGET8n8aAhamEALw_wcB

https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petco...00CAooClgF3iJe4_fbIaAp4zEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

as for the light, you will need a heat light. I recommend a 75w bulb (I wouldnt recommend using blue or red light) and you will need a th50 24 inch UVB hood to cover the whole cage so you prevent any further damage of chances of chameleons getting MBD. http://www.lllreptile.com/products/..._bHSPMXkz-wEhzAas9VHVCoyQvlTbywgaAqj-EALw_wcB

I got mine (same brand) for $50 which is a good price for these. Also technically the cheapest you can find.

As for gutloading and buying plants, just follow the guide given above and make sure the plants are not toxic. I use a corn plant for mine which works very well and gives him a lot of coverage. pothos are really good as well, a lot of chameleon owners use pothos. https://www.reptileadvisor.com/plants-for-chameleons/

if you have any questions let me know!!
 
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You should give her away ASAP!! You just stated you do not have the money to take care of her. You are killing her very slowly and she’s suffering. This animal will die I might ruin the world but you ruined this animals world too bud.
Not asking you, get off of my thread. Talking to missskitles, and the others that actually want to help me.
 
Okay, so you need to make quite a few changes. Putting my feedback in red. I’m going to sound critical and please don’t take me as mean...I’m not and don’t mean to be. I’m just blunt. I understand that this is the set up you received with her, and that your brother received. You are here which is absolutely wonderful and we love helping new keepers make things better for their chameleons.
I am pretty sure it is a female, and is around 1 year old. Are you aware she will be laying eggs regardless of whether she’s been mated? I’ll go over that separately. I'll include some pictures so you can determine. I got it last October, I am feeding my cham crickets from petsmart. I don't know what gut loading is, but if that means what am I feeding the crickets, it is the flukers orange cube diet. Technically true gutloading is feeding the bugs within a hour or few before giving to your cham. However, many of us don’t practice that precisely. I keep my feeders well fed with fresh produce all the time so that they are healthy bugs, and therefore a better source of nutrition for my cham. Attaching feeder and gutloading sheets. The cricket cubes aren’t good for more than hydration.
I barely take him out of his cage, maybe once a week. I put crickets whenever I don't see any in his cage. And I just grab an egg carton, and shake some into his cage. You really need to give only a certain number of feeders. Obesity is a real problem for chams and especially veileds. Also, for females over feeding can lead to serious complications with egg laying. I don't dust my feeders with anything, I just give them the orange cubes. Your cham needs supplements. There’s many different regimens but I’m going to give you the easiest to follow. Every feeding lightly dust the feeders with a phosphorus free calcium without D3...except one feeding every other week. That one feeding you’ll want to use Reptivite WITH D3. This is one of the reasons that your chameleon has mbd and possibly some other issues that aren’t visible. To help him drink water, I spray the leaves with a spray bottle, and he licks the droplets off of the leaves. I do this 3 times a day. Perfect! I haven't seen him poop recently, I just cleaned his cage out. My brother got him for free off of a Craigslist ad, and he couldn't take care of it so he gave it to me. He hasn't been to a vet check up. As I think you do have a female and she does have mbd, I suggest a vet visit. She may need a calcium injection or special supplementation to get her body recovered. i included pictures that include cage info, but the temps and humidity I am not sure. It’s essential to know and monitor temps and humidity. Basking temps should be no higher than 80* with a drop at night. She can handle a night time temp drop as low as 55-60. Humidity during the day should be between 30-50%, which is actually much drier than you’d think. I don't have anything to measure it.my cage is inside of a closet with no vents. My only concern for being in a closet is air ventilation. Stagnant air can lead to respiratory infection. My chameleon is in my room upstairs of my house. He is on the same level as me. I live in Lansing, Michigan
Looking at your enclosure, it’s quite bare. All of that empty space needs to be filled with branches, vines and live plants. It needs to look like a tree. The best/easiest plants are pothos and philodendron. Your cham will eat at her plants, so they need to be real and safe. Attaching plant list. The Repti carpet is just a bacterial breeding ground...bare floor is best. It looks like you have a chameleon kit enclosure...you’ll need a larger one...a minimum of 2x2x4’.
The other contributing factor to mbd is the uvb is inadequate. The screw in bulbs aren’t capable of providing the proper range of uvb except for just a few inches away. You need a T5 fixture as long as the enclosure is wide with a 5.0 or Arcadia 6% uvb bulb. Basking area needs to be approx 8-9” below basking light and uvb. Now, the red bulb. Colored lights are bad for sensitive chameleon eyes. Many of us use an old fashioned incandescent light bulb for basking. They are getting harder to find and led don’t put off the heat. I’d say start with a 60w bulb and see what temps that gives you. No lights or additional heat at night (unless your room temps get below 55*.
I need to get ready for work but will be back later to go over the egg laying stuff.
In the meantime, check out all of the modules here https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/ and Neptune the chameleon on YouTube is another great source of info.

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I understand that you said that I should moderate, and control how much my cham eats, but how do I get the right amount of crickets into my cage without them jumping everywhere?
 
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