Advice for a new keeper :)))

[honeyybee176]

Hi, I’m really excited to be keeping my little veiled baby! I’ve done tons and tons of research on keeping and care, and I think everything is in good working order for her. But I wanted to make sure there weren’t any like “red flags” that I’m not seeing cause I’m not experienced. So any questions and suggestions will be appreciated!

Background: I started working at petsmart about a month ago, and fell in love with this little girl. She is shockingly social, totally chill with being handled. I brought her home my 4th day, she just made such an impression on me. Based on my estimates she was probably hatched in late December, so about to be four months old.

Presently she is in the screen enclosure that comes in the chameleon kit by reptibreeze. She has branches from my back yard and a live Pothos plant and a ton of aquarium decor plants. She has an almost too good appetite, as I have noticed her getting a little chunky in her cheeks and cast, she’s been dialed back to 8 bugs a day, but it was 13 before.

Plans I have for her long term future are to primarily get a new enclosure for her. My step dad builds furniture for a hobby so I’m gonna ask my mom for him to make her a custom chameleon mansion for my Xmas gift. That’ll make her about a year(it’s her coming of age gift lol). Once I have her new pad I can also switch her plants to all live cause it’ll actually be strong enough to hold their pots.

The only “concerns” I have are things I’m trying not to worry too much about and I’ll explain why, but if y’all think ‘no that doesn’t make sense, be worried about it’ let me know I want the best for her.
1) she is in a “high traffic” area. I live with my dad and his wife, so my whole life is crammed into my small bedroom. I have a love seat and tv in here and so I spend my time in here when I’m home. I don’t think this is terrible for her cause she is as social as she is, I prefer low volumes so nothing is too disruptive, and she’s got tons of hides. There are only two tiny spots I have a clear view of her where I’m sat. One just above her live plant so that’ll be covered once it gets a wee bit taller, and the other is a her sized sliver on the top branch. It’s kind of a transitional spot for her, dripper on one side, basking in the other, so she doesn’t like sit there for long.
2) she kind of holds herself up a bit sometimes. I know this is a sign of URI, but I’ve not seen any other symptoms or sign of health concerns from her(no noises, normal breathing, healthy poops, closed mouth). I’m guessing why she does it is she’s looking for food or water(her crickets have climbed to the top corners a lot and her dripper only goes twice a day) she’s trying to warm up more(her basking spot was hung with a larger sized Cham in mind so she could grow into it, so she might be holding herself toward the lamps) or it’s maybe a personal quirk(I hadn’t always been watching for this behavior, so the first three weeks or so I dont remember her doing this but it wouldn’t have been notable if she had been so she very well could have been and I didn’t care to remember)

The pictures I’ve attached are her enclosure and her from yesterday around 5pm. She hates my phone so her chin’s puffed and she’s a bit ashy cause we’re anticipating a shed, but she’s a wonderful healthy looking bb girl in my eyes.

Let me know what y’all think and I’ll be answering questions super quickly, cause I’m free all today and tomorrow. Thanks!

 

[IrohtheVeiled]

Hi and welcome, @MissSkittles can point you in the correct direction. Filling out the husbandry form is the best way to get specific advice I’d paste it but I’m still on my phone.

I can give you some input though based off the picture you shared of the enclosure:

You want your basking branch 6-9 inches from the top of the enclosure - what uvb strength are you running?

You also want a perch closer to his heat dome for your Cham to bask

As for the plastic plants, they’re usually a no go for Chams, they pose an impaction risk if they choose to eat them.

in your live planters I see either fertilizer or perlite in the soil - these can also be harmful to chams if ingested

 

[honeyybee176]

Thank for the reply! @IrohtheVeiled
Her basking branch is about 7-8 inches from the top. It’s a reptisun t5 linear high output 5.0 and her heat bulb is 75watt.

About the plastic and silk plants, I am aware they can cause impaction. The enclosure is semi flimsy and I don’t know if I feel good trying to hang the weight of the pot and soil, is there something I can do to make the whole thing more stable so I could, or is it alright to wait a couple months for a new enclosure.

And for the perlites, thanks so much for letting me know that, I will find something to swap that out with this week

 

[MissSkittles]

Hi and welcome to you and your cutie patootie. I see @IrohtheVeiled just posted the main advice that I was going to offer. That’s totally awesome since I tend to talk too much.
I’m not at all being mean or trying to call you out…I swear. But…all the time we do hear that extensive research has been done. The problem is the sources are too often old or incorrect and people have no idea of knowing what is right and what isn’t. The primary sources which are 100% trustworthy are https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/ and Neptune the Chameleon on YouTube and other social media. Both do a fantastic job of teaching all of the basic and finer points of chameleon’s keeping and often why we do things certain ways. Since you have a beautiful little girl, I’m also going to direct you to my blog about eggs and laying. https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/veiled-chameleon-laying-101.2488/ Your sweetie is still a bit young, but it is important to be informed and ready as she will grow up before you know it. Veileds are opportunistic eaters…if there’s food, they never say no. Assuming she is around 4 months old, 8 feeders daily is a reasonable amount and you are wise in keeping an eye on her cheeks and casque. They can get fat before we know it. You have no idea how relieved I am to see that you have a linear UVB. Is it safe for me to assume it is a T5 with either a ReptiSun 5.0 or Arcadia 6% bulb? If so, then her basking area needs to be a distance of 8-9” below the lights. Once you get that set, then you check temps and adjust the basking light strength as needed. We never want our girls to be any hotter than 80F. Returning to uvb…I do hope that along with yours being what I mentioned above, it is also one of the brands I mentioned. Although to be fair, I only checked one unit, it was what I feel should be one of the higher quality of the off brands (ReptiZoo). The output of a brand new bulb was poorer than an Arcadia over a year old. Unless you have a solarmeter 6.5 to check output, I advise sticking with Arcadia or ReptiSun/Zoo Med brands.
Yes, your cutie will be needing much more space and one full of branches, vines and safe clean live plants. The minimum size is 2x2x4’, but I say go bigger if you can. Until you can get her a larger enclosure, provided you don’t have any other pets that may pose a threat, you could set up a free range area for her. There’s all different ways to do that. Some use the wall and corners lend themselves to this perfectly. Some just have some safe taller plants in a window. If you do set up a free range area, it is only meant to be for a short and fully supervised time out of the enclosure. Chameleons can move fast when they want and easily get lost.
I see the question you just posted…great one! There are Dragon Ledges https://dragonstrand.com/dragon-ledges/ or what I’ve been doing lately is using plastic garden trellis. Do read how Dragon Ledges work, as the basics are the same no matter what you use…the frame needs to bear the weight and not the screen. Here’s some pics of what I’ve done. Also throwing in a few others that may be helpful. With this, I’ll shut up for now. Do continue asking questions, sharing your progress and pics of your little green goddess.

Attaching to the frame and added some small screws to prevent trellis from sliding down. All wire ends are outside enclosure.

Drilled tiny holes in trellis where needed.

This is what I made for one of my panthers. I connect two ReptiBreezes side by side, trellis holds branches and even some plants. Shower curtain to prevent water hitting the wall and blocking views between chams. Also, is bioactive.

This was done using Dragon Ledges. Also for a panther.

Size difference between chameleon kit size and 2x2x4’. Pardon the sparseness and plastic plants…I was new at the time.


Variety of feeders is best. Many on line vendors sell variety packs, which are great. For grasshoppers, https://dragonhoppers.com/ or Khai Phan on Facebook.

I don’t specifically ‘gutload’, but I do keep my bugs well fed at all times with a variety of fresh organic produce. Healthy bugs are more nutritious. Avoid high protein, high calcium commercial formulations and the orange cubes and other gels. They will hydrate and keep the bugs alive for a short time, but not healthy.

 

[MissSkittles]

With all that yapping, I forgot to add that I suggest getting or making a feeding station. I like the Shooting Gallery style. https://tkchameleons.com/products/shooting-gallery?variant=30018608595032 Then there is this style. https://www.fullthrottlefeeders.com/ This one. https://sunsetchameleons.com/product-category/chameleons/chameleon-feeders/ And so many other designs, many can be found on Etsy. Or you can use a tall deli cup. The main point is to keep the feeders contained in one relatively escape-proof area in the same spot so she’ll always know where to find her food. Crickets especially can pose a problem if let loose or they escape. At night when chams are dreaming of lush trees and fat silkworms, crickets are hungry and will take a bite out of her. Sometimes it’s inevitable to have a rogue crickets, so you can leave a small bit of greens or carrot or something on the enclosure floor.

 

[honeyybee176]

Hi and welcome to you and your cutie patootie. I see @IrohtheVeiled just posted the main advice that I was going to offer. That’s totally awesome since I tend to talk too much.
I’m not at all being mean or trying to call you out…I swear. But…all the time we do hear that extensive research has been done. The problem is the sources are too often old or incorrect and people have no idea of knowing what is right and what isn’t. The primary sources which are 100% trustworthy are https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/ and Neptune the Chameleon on YouTube and other social media. Both do a fantastic job of teaching all of the basic and finer points of chameleon’s keeping and often why we do things certain ways. Since you have a beautiful little girl, I’m also going to direct you to my blog about eggs and laying. https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/veiled-chameleon-laying-101.2488/ Your sweetie is still a bit young, but it is important to be informed and ready as she will grow up before you know it. Veileds are opportunistic eaters…if there’s food, they never say no. Assuming she is around 4 months old, 8 feeders daily is a reasonable amount and you are wise in keeping an eye on her cheeks and casque. They can get fat before we know it. You have no idea how relieved I am to see that you have a linear UVB. Is it safe for me to assume it is a T5 with either a ReptiSun 5.0 or Arcadia 6% bulb? If so, then her basking area needs to be a distance of 8-9” below the lights. Once you get that set, then you check temps and adjust the basking light strength as needed. We never want our girls to be any hotter than 80F. Returning to uvb…I do hope that along with yours being what I mentioned above, it is also one of the brands I mentioned. Although to be fair, I only checked one unit, it was what I feel should be one of the higher quality of the off brands (ReptiZoo). The output of a brand new bulb was poorer than an Arcadia over a year old. Unless you have a solarmeter 6.5 to check output, I advise sticking with Arcadia or ReptiSun/Zoo Med brands.
Yes, your cutie will be needing much more space and one full of branches, vines and safe clean live plants. The minimum size is 2x2x4’, but I say go bigger if you can. Until you can get her a larger enclosure, provided you don’t have any other pets that may pose a threat, you could set up a free range area for her. There’s all different ways to do that. Some use the wall and corners lend themselves to this perfectly. Some just have some safe taller plants in a window. If you do set up a free range area, it is only meant to be for a short and fully supervised time out of the enclosure. Chameleons can move fast when they want and easily get lost.
I see the question you just posted…great one! There are Dragon Ledges https://dragonstrand.com/dragon-ledges/ or what I’ve been doing lately is using plastic garden trellis. Do read how Dragon Ledges work, as the basics are the same no matter what you use…the frame needs to bear the weight and not the screen. Here’s some pics of what I’ve done. Also throwing in a few others that may be helpful. With this, I’ll shut up for now. Do continue asking questions, sharing your progress and pics of your little green goddess.

Attaching to the frame and added some small screws to prevent trellis from sliding down. All wire ends are outside enclosure.
View attachment 363363
Drilled tiny holes in trellis where needed.
View attachment 363364
This is what I made for one of my panthers. I connect two ReptiBreezes side by side, trellis holds branches and even some plants. Shower curtain to prevent water hitting the wall and blocking views between chams. Also, is bioactive.
View attachment 363365
This was done using Dragon Ledges. Also for a panther.
View attachment 363367
Size difference between chameleon kit size and 2x2x4’. Pardon the sparseness and plastic plants…I was new at the time.
View attachment 363366

Variety of feeders is best. Many on line vendors sell variety packs, which are great. For grasshoppers, https://dragonhoppers.com/ or Khai Phan on Facebook.
View attachment 363368

I don’t specifically ‘gutload’, but I do keep my bugs well fed at all times with a variety of fresh organic produce. Healthy bugs are more nutritious. Avoid high protein, high calcium commercial formulations and the orange cubes and other gels. They will hydrate and keep the bugs alive for a short time, but not healthy.
View attachment 363369

Oh my gosh! Thank you so much!

Neptune the Chameleon has been my primary source of info, I think I’ve watched and rewatched her entire video collection. I really appreciate the additional link though, I will definitely give that a browse.

Her basking spot and lights Are exactly as you recommended. It’s 7-8 inches and a 5.0 reptisun

And I know being eggbound can cause death it’s probably the thing I’m most worried about for her. She has a laying bin set up now, so she can see it and get used to it, but if my age estimates are right she won’t need it for another month or two

Free range is definitely something I’ve though of more in the context of outdoor sun time on warm and clear days, but getting a indoor set up is a wonderful thought on extending her space.

The trellis idea is incredibly genius, I will definitely be doing that for the custom enclosure, and try to adjust this one too.

Her feeders are crickets and roaches. Mainly crickets because we have the roaches out of stock often. I’ve not done my own gut loading, but I plan to soon(my next paycheck to be exact) using the blended into ice cubes deal

Thank you so much for the compliments, I really appreciate it. I really do hope I’m doing right by her cause she is just amazing!!

 

[honeyybee176]

With all that yapping, I forgot to add that I suggest getting or making a feeding station. I like the Shooting Gallery style. https://tkchameleons.com/products/shooting-gallery?variant=30018608595032 Then there is this style. https://www.fullthrottlefeeders.com/ This one. https://sunsetchameleons.com/product-category/chameleons/chameleon-feeders/ And so many other designs, many can be found on Etsy. Or you can use a tall deli cup. The main point is to keep the feeders contained in one relatively escape-proof area in the same spot so she’ll always know where to find her food. Crickets especially can pose a problem if let loose or they escape. At night when chams are dreaming of lush trees and fat silkworms, crickets are hungry and will take a bite out of her. Sometimes it’s inevitable to have a rogue crickets, so you can leave a small bit of greens or carrot or something on the enclosure floor.

I do have a dish for her food, it’s a mini birdbath But it works great. It’s the little grey bowl on the right middle of the enclosure.
I didn’t know crickets can bite her at night yikes but luckily it doesn’t happen all the time just if they jump when I’m trying to pour them in to the bowl, but tossing a veg on the bottom if I know one got out is very helpful idea thank you

 

[IrohtheVeiled]

Dragon ledges are great by the way

Bill also does full enclosures with them built into the system - this is a dragon strand hybrid enclosure that I use

I used a mesh floor and all of my plants are mounted on the sides.

The dragon strands are great for allowing you to suspend planters off the cage floor like this

I am going to be adding a few more soon

(Ignore the water spots on the acrylic I’m due for a spring cleaning)

 

[LizardLurkin]

Excuse the creepy night photo, but what I did was grab some of the chunkiest, thickest, longest sticks I could find, sawed off the curvature and used these as supports on each corner of the enclosure. They are tied fairly tightly at multiple points with fishing line, that way there's no damage to the screen itself. It's the cheapest way to do it, but it does take some elbow grease.
Very adorable lil baby btw!

EDIT: Also, you can repurpose those fake plants by tying them to the outside of the cage with fishing line, like I did here, so that she feels like she has more coverage I think it looks neat!

 

[honeyybee176]

Excuse the creepy night photo, but what I did was grab some of the chunkiest, thickest, longest sticks I could find, sawed off the curvature and used these as supports on each corner of the enclosure. They are tied fairly tightly at multiple points with fishing line, that way there's no damage to the screen itself. It's the cheapest way to do it, but it does take some elbow grease.
Very adorable lil baby btw!

View attachment 363371
EDIT: Also, you can repurpose those fake plants by tying them to the outside of the cage with fishing line, like I did here, so that she feels like she has more coverage I think it looks neat!

I have larger branches as anchors for the smaller ones, I didn’t assume they would hold up plant pots too. I’ll give that a go as well.
And that’s a great idea for the fake plants, thanks

 

[LizardLurkin]

This is a little doodle to give an idea of how I support the plants weight. I kind of have a diagonal branch underneath to help support the weight from two points.

 

[IrohtheVeiled]

This is a little doodle to give an idea of how I support the plants weight. I kind of have a diagonal branch underneath to help support the weight from two points.
View attachment 363372

Important note: anything you’re mounting should have 3 points of support as illustrated

(Usually bottom and 2 sides this prevents any movement.

Cross hatching horizontal supports also ensures that nothing shifts over time as wood expands and contracts with varying humidity

 

[Gloriawood]

This is a little doodle to give an idea of how I support the plants weight. I kind of have a diagonal branch underneath to help support the weight from two points.
View attachment 363372

One thing I’ve found helpful when using this method, is to actually attach an empty pot. This way I can drop in another pot with the plant in it and when my guy eventually eats it or I kill it, I can easily swap plants without taking it apart.

 

[LizardLurkin]

One thing I’ve found helpful when using this method, is to actually attach an empty pot. This way I can drop in another pot with the plant in it and when my guy eventually eats it or I kill it, I can easily swap plants without taking it apart.

OMG! Yes! I forgot to mention!
I place an empty pot where I want the plant to go, and then put my repotted plant inside of that pot so it's easier to put in, as well as easier to swap out should the time come.