panther888
New Member
I was wondering at what age (size) should a panther chameleon be upgraded to his adult size enclosure? I am not sure the age of mine, but they are 4-5 inches STV. They are currently in a 18x12x20, and I just ordered two 2x2x4 aluminum cages from LLL. Also, would I need a 10.0 reptisun with the larger enclosure?
Here is my set-up info and pics -- any constructive criticism is welcome
Cage Info:
•Cage Type – aluminum screen, 18x12x20
•Lighting – 5.0 reptisun fluorescent, 60 watt incandescent bulb for heat, lights on 8AM-8PM, cages placed 1 foot in front of window with blinds partially open (get some natural light as the sun rises before their lights come on…I know this doesn’t help with UVA/UVB since the window blocks out most rays, but I thought more gradual lighting was better than just a bulb coming on immediately)
•Temperature - Basking spot: 94*F (absolute maximum if cham were to hang on screen under light…light is 4” from top of screen), 91*F if he is on perch nearest to lamp / Lowest temp in cage: 72*F / Lowest overnight temp: 70*F, normally around 72*F / Measured with a thermometer with probe
•Humidity – Humidity about 60 (humidity gauge), with spikes during misting. Plants – Most decorations are artificial, but have one live potted pothos and one money tree --- will be adding hibiscus in next (larger) cage
•Placement – Cage is located in my office, away from traffic and dogs. No fans in room, AC vent is partially closed. Cage is only about 2 feet off the floor (I know they like to be higher, and will eventually upgrade to the large 48” tall cages…they came in yesterday, just need to set them up!)
•Location – Austin, Texas
Chameleon Info:
•Your Chameleon – 2 panthers, supposedly “Ambanja” (“male”) and “Sambava” (“female”) – was told they are 5 months old, but I think they may be younger. I acquired them about a month and 1/2 ago.
•Handling – Never!( They are not very friendly, but are warming up to me. They have only been taken out their cage 3 times, for cleaning. I would like to clean their enclosures more often, but they stress out pretty bad so I wanted to give them time to acclimate.
•Feeding – Feeding time is in the morning, a staple of ½” crickets, about 12 a day. 2-3 superworms every other feeding. Also feed small silkies when I have them. Have fed hornworms only twice, as they got too big too fast. Crickets are gutloaded with leafy greens, potatoes, carrots, broccoli, and a dry mix of cricket gutload (tropical fish flakes, ground alfalfa pellets, rice baby cereal, flukers cricket gutload)
•Supplements – JurassiCal pure calcium – lightly dusted every feeding / RepCal phosphorous-free Calcium with D3 1x per week / RepCal Herptivite 2x per month
•Watering – Hand misted with pressure garden pump sprayer for 30 seconds, 3 times a day (morning, afternoon, evening about 1 hour before lights out). Turn on dropper for 10 minute intervals when I see drinking behavior, usually induced by misting. I am setting up a MistKing system this weekend --- will have more frequent mistings, with dropper on 7 hours a day (need to set up drainage)
•Fecal Description – “Male” – defecates A LOT! Large, firm, brown with white urate / “Female” – doesn’t eat as much as male, smaller brown with white feces. I have to make sure she drinks enough as her skin sometimes appears dehydrated. Never been tested to my knowledge.
•History – I think they were only fed crickets with their previous owners, so not much diet variety.
Thanks!
*Note: The small pebbles in the tree pot are glued down, so no chance of accidental ingestion
Here is my set-up info and pics -- any constructive criticism is welcome
Cage Info:
•Cage Type – aluminum screen, 18x12x20
•Lighting – 5.0 reptisun fluorescent, 60 watt incandescent bulb for heat, lights on 8AM-8PM, cages placed 1 foot in front of window with blinds partially open (get some natural light as the sun rises before their lights come on…I know this doesn’t help with UVA/UVB since the window blocks out most rays, but I thought more gradual lighting was better than just a bulb coming on immediately
) •Temperature - Basking spot: 94*F (absolute maximum if cham were to hang on screen under light…light is 4” from top of screen), 91*F if he is on perch nearest to lamp / Lowest temp in cage: 72*F / Lowest overnight temp: 70*F, normally around 72*F / Measured with a thermometer with probe
•Humidity – Humidity about 60 (humidity gauge), with spikes during misting. Plants – Most decorations are artificial, but have one live potted pothos and one money tree --- will be adding hibiscus in next (larger) cage
•Placement – Cage is located in my office, away from traffic and dogs. No fans in room, AC vent is partially closed. Cage is only about 2 feet off the floor (I know they like to be higher, and will eventually upgrade to the large 48” tall cages…they came in yesterday, just need to set them up!)
•Location – Austin, Texas
Chameleon Info:
•Your Chameleon – 2 panthers, supposedly “Ambanja” (“male”) and “Sambava” (“female”) – was told they are 5 months old, but I think they may be younger. I acquired them about a month and 1/2 ago.
•Handling – Never!
( They are not very friendly, but are warming up to me. They have only been taken out their cage 3 times, for cleaning. I would like to clean their enclosures more often, but they stress out pretty bad so I wanted to give them time to acclimate.•Feeding – Feeding time is in the morning, a staple of ½” crickets, about 12 a day. 2-3 superworms every other feeding. Also feed small silkies when I have them. Have fed hornworms only twice, as they got too big too fast. Crickets are gutloaded with leafy greens, potatoes, carrots, broccoli, and a dry mix of cricket gutload (tropical fish flakes, ground alfalfa pellets, rice baby cereal, flukers cricket gutload)
•Supplements – JurassiCal pure calcium – lightly dusted every feeding / RepCal phosphorous-free Calcium with D3 1x per week / RepCal Herptivite 2x per month
•Watering – Hand misted with pressure garden pump sprayer for 30 seconds, 3 times a day (morning, afternoon, evening about 1 hour before lights out). Turn on dropper for 10 minute intervals when I see drinking behavior, usually induced by misting. I am setting up a MistKing system this weekend --- will have more frequent mistings, with dropper on 7 hours a day (need to set up drainage)
•Fecal Description – “Male” – defecates A LOT! Large, firm, brown with white urate / “Female” – doesn’t eat as much as male, smaller brown with white feces. I have to make sure she drinks enough as her skin sometimes appears dehydrated. Never been tested to my knowledge.
•History – I think they were only fed crickets with their previous owners, so not much diet variety.
Thanks!
*Note: The small pebbles in the tree pot are glued down, so no chance of accidental ingestion
