Any snake "experts" here???

javsto

New Member
Hi, Im looking into buying a male Super Pastel python within the next few weeks, probably before xmas or new years and I already have an exo terra black cabinet/stand that's 18"x18". I want to know if a snake set up with those same measurements is suitable for this type of snake to begin with?

My local reptile store, which is where I plan on buying my snake from has several varieties of habitats but I like this kit since it comes complete with bedding, heat mat, day light blue bulb and ceramic lamp, water dish and other accessories and the owner is giving me $30 off the price of the kit with the snake purchase. I think its a zoomed or exo terra but I really cant remember at this time. any hints or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. thanks for reading.
 
I feel like you may be best off starting your little guy out in an 18" x 36" setup. That should be a good size for him when he grows up and it'll be suitable for a baby as long as you provide plenty of opportunities to hide. Starting him out with his adult enclosure will save you money in the long run.

How big is the snake now, and can I safely assume he's a ball python?
 
I feel like you may be best off starting your little guy out in an 18" x 36" setup. That should be a good size for him when he grows up and it'll be suitable for a baby as long as you provide plenty of opportunities to hide. Starting him out with his adult enclosure will save you money in the long run.

How big is the snake now, and can I safely assume he's a ball python?


yes its a super pastel ball python and its currently around 20"-22" long. I chose the 18x18x24"(LxWxH) because the vendor said that a taller cage is not necessary since the python isn't an arboreal reptile so wont be climbing all that much so having something tall isn't as necessary as something that's long or wide, which is why I already have the 18"x18" base
 
He meant the 18x36" long tank, not tall. And I agree that would be a better size.

ok so 18x36" is the preferred option, but what height is better? is the heat mat better placed underneath or on the side? who makes a better glass/acrylic habitat, exo terra or zoomed?? Are colored bulbs better or just regular "house" bulbs for heat or should I get one of those new Sunray multi spectrum lights that are out now for chams?
 
The height is not the important factor, The length and width are more important. The heat pad should be put underneath the tank, preferrably on the left or right side of the tank. Ball pythons like the basking spot warm(about 91 or 92 degrees). I have my heat pads hooked up to thermostats.
Snakes do better with "belly heat"(heat pad under the tank), than trying to heat the enclosure with a light bulb. If you have an enclosed tank and use heat bulbs, the snake may get too hot and would have nowhere to go to cool off.
 
The height is not the important factor, The length and width are more important. The heat pad should be put underneath the tank, preferrably on the left or right side of the tank. Ball pythons like the basking spot warm(about 91 or 92 degrees). I have my heat pads hooked up to thermostats.
Snakes do better with "belly heat"(heat pad under the tank), than trying to heat the enclosure with a light bulb. If you have an enclosed tank and use heat bulbs, the snake may get too hot and would have nowhere to go to cool off.

great info, thanks. next, live rodents or frozen?? Also, the kit comes with a bowl that's labeled for bathing/soaking and a water treatment. Is that necessary if I have a soft water conditioning system already installed in my house?
 
There are pros and cons for live or frozen.
In a natural environment, snakes have to catch their food. Live feeding will reinforce their natural ability to catch their food. The draw back is live food can cause injuries to the snake, usually in the form of bite marks which can get infected. Another draw back is having to go get the food once a week. What do you do if the snake doesn't eat? Now you have to care for their food until the snake wants to eat again.
A lot of people prefer frozen/thawed. You can buy a lot at one time. If you don't live close to the source of frozen food, you will have to get it shipped to you. If you have to get it shipped, ask about the shipping costs. Most snakes can be converted to eat frozen/thawed if they are used to live food.
Another option for feeding is to pre-kill the live rodent and then feed to your snake.
 
The store where im buying my snake from sells both frozen and live rodents so that's no problem. I did hear once that if a snake is attacked from a live rodent it will be scared of it and refuse to eat it from that point forward, to the point of starving to death, which im not sure is real or not but in any case im leaning toward frozen/thawed feeders to be on the safe side. But do the rodents need to be dusted with powder the same way that crickets/roaches etc are when they are fed to chams???
 
The store where im buying my snake from sells both frozen and live rodents so that's no problem. I did hear once that if a snake is attacked from a live rodent it will be scared of it and refuse to eat it from that point forward, to the point of starving to death, which im not sure is real or not but in any case im leaning toward frozen/thawed feeders to be on the safe side. But do the rodents need to be dusted with powder the same way that crickets/roaches etc are when they are fed to chams???

It's best if you just feed frozen/thawed rodents. They don't need to be dusted with calcium and vitamins-the organs and bones and stuff provide all the nutrition the snake needs. Good luck with your snake! I've had my BP for over ten years and I love her to death.
 
I have never fed live to my ball. There's just no need to risk injury. I'm also of the mind that if it's frozen there is a much lower chance of any parasites and such remaining alive. We got Frankie when she was no bigger than a pencil. She is 2 now and a healthy ball having only had. Frozen, which I usually buy in 20 and keep in my deep freeze.

I personally am not a fan of undertank heating. I use lights above, she has a stump hide that is her cooer place.

Talking about tank height. I actually went with 18" and she has a tallish long. She likes to hang out in it and pretend she's an tree python.
 
Oops forgot about water. I only use distilled or if I'm out water from the Brita. I think the softened water has salt in it. The snake drinks pretty frequently I would be concerned about the sodium balance.
 
As far as tank size, like others have said, overall floorspace is more important. People forget that these animals need to be able to stretch out completely and they can't do that in a small tank or tub container. But mine also liked to explore heights if he had any available and I purchased very thick grapewood branches that were positioned upwards and he would definitely use them now and then.

So don't be afraid to add some height with your decor, if you have the space to do it.

And we only ever did frozen as well. If your snake will eat frozen it's just soooo much better and easier (so much better to buy frozen in bulk and never worry about them bitting your snake). Although I'll admit, we had a ball python morph and my roommate would "gutload" his frozen rats with something like Superpig by syringing it down the throat. It isn't necessary but I always thought that was a great idea, it's such an easy way to add more oomph to their diet. Could be a mashed up high-quality gutload.
 
Thank you all for your input and sharing your valuable experience so far. Now in regards to frozen mice/rats. I'm assuming that you don't just take one out of the freezer and feed it to your snake. Do you thaw it out in a microwave or just let it sit out in the open and for how long before feeding it?

Secondly, Im looking to get a male python but is there a difference in temperament between a male or female or any major differences in keeping one gender over the other?
 
I'm assuming that you don't just take one out of the freezer and feed it to your snake. Do you thaw it out in a microwave or just let it sit out in the open and for how long before feeding it?

Secondly, Im looking to get a male python but is there a difference in temperament between a male or female or any major differences in keeping one gender over the other?

DO NOT microwave the mice unless you want to clean up the explosion.

I let the mice thaw at room temp and then right before feeding, warm it up to mouse body temp under an incandescent light. Its pretty easy especially if you already have a handy temp gun. A mouse would normally be about 104 F when alive. Some people put the mice in a Ziploc bag in hot water. I don't like that method as the mice tend to sweat and they end up soaking wet. My bp won't touch a wet rodent. Prefers them clean and dry.

I haven't noticed much gender difference in temperment, more on an individual basis. Some snakes are more nervous or pissy than others. Bps tend to be mellow....maybe a little shyer and nervous as babies when the whole world would be out to eat them.
 
ok so don't microwave them or else it will explode...good to know. So im wondering just how bad is the poop situation??? is it dependent on the size of the feeder, are there parts of it that don't get fully digested after eating and how long after "dinner" is potty time and do you change the bedding all at once or spot cleaning, do snakes urinate or vomit???
 
Tank size is important like some one said they must be able to stretch. I am in the prosses of building a new tank for my bp. She is about 2 feet now.Alike most I got her when she was knee high to a grass hoper. They are nothing like a cham. They are much easer tk work with lol. I feed live cause I like her to hunt. And I breed my own rats so its not an issue. Also my girl is the worlds greatest eater. I have given her rats that were killed or died cause mom didn't find them under the substrate, and they can be almost stone cold and I just worm em In my hands for a min and she will eat it lol:rolleyes::eek: . She will even eat out of my hand, unless shes in a mood. But froozen are much easier to care for lol.

As for heating I don't use heat mats. I use a heat coil witch allows me to move 5he heat to were ever it needs to be.

Water I use a shallow food tub aware.

Heat I don't use heat mats. I use heat coil it allows me to put the heat ware i need it to be. I find heat mats useless. But that's just me. others use them with no issue. the problem Is they are 1 times use cause once you stick it under there its near impossible to get off and not ruin it. My advise if you are gonna use them and plan on using them again use electrical tape or duck tap to put it on.

Lighting I use none. I put my snakes in a room with lots of light in the day. If you need hest from the top then I would use a ceramic bulb.

Substrate I use coco husk. You can use the fine stuff that comes in bricks or the chip like stuff. I never change my substrate only when I move tanks witch this will be the last time ( when I'm done building my new tank ). I normally spot clean my tank. Snake poo is hard and easy to pick up. When snakes pee its called a urit ( don't k ow correct spelling ) and I just pick up a small hand full of substrate around and under the urit.

That just about covers everything I do. But what everyone is saying is all correct and spot on info. So I hope this helps:D
 
Tank size is important like some one said they must be able to stretch. I am in the prosses of building a new tank for my bp. She is about 2 feet now.Alike most I got her when she was knee high to a grass hopper. They are nothing like a cham. They are much easer to work with lol. I feed live cause I like her to hunt. And I breed my own rats so its not an issue. Also my girl is the worlds greatest eater. I have given her rats that were killed or died cause mom didn't find them under the substrate, and they can be almost stone cold and I just worm em In my hands for a min and she will eat it lol:rolleyes::eek: . She will even eat out of my hand, unless shes in a mood. But froozen are much easier to care for lol.

As for heating I don't use heat mats. I use a heat coil witch allows me to move 5he heat to were ever it needs to be.

Water I use a shallow food tub aware.

Heat I don't use heat mats. I use heat coil it allows me to put the heat ware i need it to be. I find heat mats useless. But that's just me. others use them with no issue. the problem Is they are 1 times use cause once you stick it under there its near impossible to get off and not ruin it. My advise if you are gonna use them and plan on using them again use electrical tape or duck tap to put it on.

Lighting I use none. I put my snakes in a room with lots of light in the day. If you need hest from the top then I would use a ceramic bulb.

Substrate I use coco husk. You can use the fine stuff that comes in bricks or the chip like stuff. I never change my substrate only when I move tanks witch this will be the last time ( when I'm done building my new tank ). I normally spot clean my tank. Snake poo is hard and easy to pick up. When snakes pee its called a urit ( don't k ow correct spelling ) and I just pick up a small hand full of substrate around and under the urit.

That just about covers everything I do. But what everyone is saying is all correct and spot on info. So I hope this helps:D
 
So is Aspen shavings the preffered substrate to use?? what about sphagnum moss or cocohusk shavings or wood chips??? Do Ball Pythons like to burrow beneath the substrate?? is that a good sign or bad if he does that??? Do I need to put a water dish or bowl in the tank for him to swim in or is it better to just mist him from time to time??
 
So is Aspen shavings the preffered substrate to use?? what about sphagnum moss or cocohusk shavings or wood chips??? Do Ball Pythons like to burrow beneath the substrate?? is that a good sign or bad if he does that??? Do I need to put a water dish or bowl in the tank for him to swim in or is it better to just mist him from time to time??

I use coco husk for bedding, as far as I know they do not dig you should have a water dish in there big enough for its hole body to soak, but not to deep, it should not be able to submerse its self. You should also be misting on a daily bases.
 
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