Begining with chameleons
- Thread starter Rambo88
- Start date
dodolah
Retired Moderator
a MALE veiled chameleon
Hi Rambo, welcome to the Chameleon Forums 
Most people will recommend a captive bred veiled or panther for people new to chameleons. They are both good species to start with. A well researched enclosure is highly recommended and will give you the best chance at success.
added -
I agree with dodolah above. A male is a much better choice for new cham owners.
Most people will recommend a captive bred veiled or panther for people new to chameleons. They are both good species to start with. A well researched enclosure is highly recommended and will give you the best chance at success.
added -
I agree with dodolah above. A male is a much better choice for new cham owners.
Last edited:
Ashley
New Member
My first was a male ambilobe panther, though I will say we spent a lot of money. Veileds are much cheaper but now I have both as I imagine you will once you get your first. Go on the gallery and look at everyones pics. It might help you decide which one. You'll love it either way
As was already posted read up on them first. There is more than enough information on this site to prepare you for proper husbandry.
As was already posted read up on them first. There is more than enough information on this site to prepare you for proper husbandry.
Justin Carl
Avid Member
yea i would go with veiled. they are supposed to me tougher, but i didnt see much difference. if you wanna start with something i would go veiled just because of price, panthers are 3-4 times more exspensive. so if you dont enjoy your cham as much as all of us, you didnt spend as much money. i find it highly unlikely that you wouldnt appreciate these animals tho. lol GOOD LUCK
Orin
New Member
A male veiled that's large enough to eat normal crickets. Depending on where you are you may be able to get some super cheap wild caught of other species. They may be fun to try but those aren't recommended to beginners since they rarely do well and may sour a person's feelings for chameleons.
Welcome to the forum Rambo88!
Have you had any other reptiles?
Here are some sites that you might like to read...
http://www.adcham.com/
http://www.chameleonnews.com/
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/uvinviv.htm
Its important to learn about the husbandry before getting one. Its usually easier to start off with a male because you don't have to worry about egg production then.
Basic cage set up 101...short version...
UVB light to allow the chameleo to make vitamin D3 so that it can use the calcium in its diet. (Some compacts and tube lights have been found to cause eye problems lately. I don't think any problems have been reported with the linear Reptisun 5.0's yet...so that's one choice.)
You will need a basking light...this can be a regular household incandescent light...house it in a hood. Appropriate temperatures allow for good digestion and thus play a part in nutrient absorption.
It is recommended that substrates and waterfalls are NOT used.
Non-toxic plants such as pothos, hibiscus, ficus are recommended to provide cover for the chameleon...well-washed, both sides of the leaves...run quite a bit of water through the soil and put something on the soil to prevent the chameleon from eating it.
Branches of appropriate size should be added to the cage.
The chameleon should be fed a variety of insects of appropriate size that have been fed a nutritious diet and gutloaded and dusted with supplements before being fed to the chameleon.
Water should be provided....misting the cage, using a dripper will work...or you can be more elaborate and add automated systems to provide water too.
Gutloading....
here's a recipe that is recommended by many...
http://www.adcham.com/html/husbandry/gutload.html
Supplementing...
Most feeder insects we use have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorous so dusting the insects with a phos.-free calcium powder just before feeding them to the chameleon helps to make up for this.
Using a vitamin powder twice a month ensures that the chameleon gets the vitamins it needs. Using one with a beta carotene source of vitamin A ensures that there won't be a buildup of vitamin A in the chameleon's system. Preformed vitamin A can build up but beta carotene can't. However, there is controversy over whether all chameleon species can convert beta carotene or not....so some people give a little preformed vitamin A once in a while too. Excess preformed vitamin A can build up in the system and can prevent the D3 from doing its job and lead to MBD.
If your chameleon gets UVB from sunlight (it should not pass through glass or plastic) then it won't likely need any D3 supplements...but if it gets UVB from artificial light (that also should not pass through glass or plastic) then it might need D3 supplements twice a month. D3 from supplements can build up in the system and cause problems so don't overdo it.
Phosphorous, calcium, D3 and vitamin A are the four main players in bone health (and they play other parts in the body as well)....they need to be in balance. When balancing them its important to look at what you feed the chameleon, what you feed the insects and what is in the suppements.
Hope this hasn't made you change your mind about having a chameleon....but there is a lot to know if you want it to do well!
Have you had any other reptiles?
Here are some sites that you might like to read...
http://www.adcham.com/
http://www.chameleonnews.com/
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/uvinviv.htm
Its important to learn about the husbandry before getting one. Its usually easier to start off with a male because you don't have to worry about egg production then.
Basic cage set up 101...short version...
UVB light to allow the chameleo to make vitamin D3 so that it can use the calcium in its diet. (Some compacts and tube lights have been found to cause eye problems lately. I don't think any problems have been reported with the linear Reptisun 5.0's yet...so that's one choice.)
You will need a basking light...this can be a regular household incandescent light...house it in a hood. Appropriate temperatures allow for good digestion and thus play a part in nutrient absorption.
It is recommended that substrates and waterfalls are NOT used.
Non-toxic plants such as pothos, hibiscus, ficus are recommended to provide cover for the chameleon...well-washed, both sides of the leaves...run quite a bit of water through the soil and put something on the soil to prevent the chameleon from eating it.
Branches of appropriate size should be added to the cage.
The chameleon should be fed a variety of insects of appropriate size that have been fed a nutritious diet and gutloaded and dusted with supplements before being fed to the chameleon.
Water should be provided....misting the cage, using a dripper will work...or you can be more elaborate and add automated systems to provide water too.
Gutloading....
here's a recipe that is recommended by many...
http://www.adcham.com/html/husbandry/gutload.html
Supplementing...
Most feeder insects we use have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorous so dusting the insects with a phos.-free calcium powder just before feeding them to the chameleon helps to make up for this.
Using a vitamin powder twice a month ensures that the chameleon gets the vitamins it needs. Using one with a beta carotene source of vitamin A ensures that there won't be a buildup of vitamin A in the chameleon's system. Preformed vitamin A can build up but beta carotene can't. However, there is controversy over whether all chameleon species can convert beta carotene or not....so some people give a little preformed vitamin A once in a while too. Excess preformed vitamin A can build up in the system and can prevent the D3 from doing its job and lead to MBD.
If your chameleon gets UVB from sunlight (it should not pass through glass or plastic) then it won't likely need any D3 supplements...but if it gets UVB from artificial light (that also should not pass through glass or plastic) then it might need D3 supplements twice a month. D3 from supplements can build up in the system and cause problems so don't overdo it.
Phosphorous, calcium, D3 and vitamin A are the four main players in bone health (and they play other parts in the body as well)....they need to be in balance. When balancing them its important to look at what you feed the chameleon, what you feed the insects and what is in the suppements.
Hope this hasn't made you change your mind about having a chameleon....but there is a lot to know if you want it to do well!
