Cabinet Review

[wanabthemoon]

Hello friends.
Can you help me consider the positives and negatives of this opportunity? I have been looking for a tv stand / armoire type thing that I can turn into a bioactive enclosure for a male panther. In my facebook marketplace search I came across this enclosure that had been set up for an iguana. In some ways this seems like a wonderful opportunity. But I also have some concerns. I was hoping you all can help me to think about what works and what doesn't.

Sizes: Inside is full 40" W x 60"H x 22"D

While this is ample size one of my concerns is getting effective light to the whole 60" height. I know I will have to open the top and replace the wood with screening for both ventilation (more on this later), and light. I'm worried about getting enough light into the bottom for plants to grow and the bioactive base to work well. Any feedback about extra tall enclosures.

Ventilation:

There is some ventilation built into the side of the box. I'm assuming I'm going to need to add quite a bit more. I know I need to establish a chimney effect with opening up the top and likely this wood wall and replacing it with screening.

Dranage / Bioactive Base:

The enclosure currently has trays that would make a standard enclosure pretty easy. My hope of doing a bioactive would probably mean building this up, adding drainage (probably into the cabinet area below). Any other concerns I"m not thinking about?


Other concerns:
Adding humidity. I would plan on adding a MistKing system. for those of you with wood enclosures, is this an issue? I think I would be sealing the back wall to make it look like a natural enclosure, (and possibly one side), but there would still be some wood. Is that an issue?

Anything else I'm missing?

Thank you all so much!!!

 

[Klyde O'Scope]

Sizes: Inside is full 40" W x 60"H x 22"D

This cabinet appears to have a trapezoidal footprint, and the 40" is across the back (widest part).
If the front is 32" across, then you still have (essentially) a 36 x 22 horizontal space.

While this is ample size one of my concerns is getting effective light to the whole 60" height. I know I will have to open the top and replace the wood with screening for both ventilation (more on this later), and light. I'm worried about getting enough light into the bottom for plants to grow and the bioactive base to work well. Any feedback about extra tall enclosures.

Lighting is going to be a challenge, but with planning, can be done. Plants that require full sun nearer the top and shade loving plants nearer the bottom. Also take watering & feeding needs into account.

For this size enclosure, I would use a couple of these:
https://www.amazon.com/SANSI-Daylight-Lights-Indoor-Plants/dp/B07TKKG8Q3
supplemented by one or more of these on individual plants that need more.
https://www.sansiled.com/collections/grow-light-bulbs
(IME, the 10 & 15W bulbs aren't sufficient—I'd go with the 24 or 36W)

IMO you have 2 options with UVB:

1. 5.0/6% with basking site 9-12" below
2. 10.0/12% with basking site 12-15" below

You have some flexibility here.

Ventilation:

There is some ventilation built into the side of the box. I'm assuming I'm going to need to add quite a bit more. I know I need to establish a chimney effect with opening up the top and likely this wood wall and replacing it with screening.

Where on the side (top, middle, bottom) is the existing vent?
You don't need an open window to create a chimney effect; a few square inches will do, but location should be as close to substrate as possible. On this cabinet, a screened vent/s could be cut into the back so as not to mess with the doors, but you'll need to know the exact parameters of the bio-bin.
Screened soffit vents are good for this.

Dranage / Bioactive Base:

The enclosure currently has trays that would make a standard enclosure pretty easy. My hope of doing a bioactive would probably mean building this up, adding drainage (probably into the cabinet area below). Any other concerns I"m not thinking about?

Shape. Most root bags/pouches I've seen are rectangular or round. Custom-sewn is an option, as is a solid sided container.

Other concerns:

Adding humidity. I would plan on adding a MistKing system. for those of you with wood enclosures, is this an issue? I think I would be sealing the back wall to make it look like a natural enclosure, (and possibly one side), but there would still be some wood. Is that an issue?

Any time you have wood exposed to... 'weather' there is the potential for problems (e.g. dry rot). This doesn't have to be from a mister; the swings in daytime/nighttime humidity can do the same damage. My best advice is to seal the out of the entire inside, and then do it again.

Anything else I'm missing?

Thank you all so much!!!

OTTOMH, inspect carefully whether this is all plywood or if there's any particle board.
IMO, particle board is usually a deal-breaker; it's very difficult to seal & keep dry (and from disintegrating once it's exposed to moisture/humidity), contains formaldehyde (which can be released if gotten wet), and can develop molds & fungi.

Cabinets like this often have very thin (1/8" thk) backs. If so here, I would replace the back with 1/4" hardwood plywood, 1/4" PVC sheeting or similar.

There's probably still more...

 

[Klyde O'Scope]

In summation, I think this can be done. However, to do it right, you probably won't save any money in the long run. That's often the thing about DIY—it doesn't save you any money, but you can get exactly what you want.

 

[wanabthemoon]

@Klyde O'Scope that is really helpful. I appreciate you taking a look. I wanted to ask further about the ventilation. I know the real test is keeping the right humidity and temp with some airflow. How do you know how MUCH airflow? Using soffits as you suggested and passive ventilation will allow some, but how do I know if it is enough? I've heard some people using computer fans, I would imagine that would create quite a pull of air constantly. Is that needed?

I love the idea of just adding a few soffits right above the substrate level and if these slits are at the top, (which I'm pretty sure they are), use that just for some additional air flow.

 

[Klyde O'Scope]

@Klyde O'Scope that is really helpful. I appreciate you taking a look. I wanted to ask further about the ventilation. I know the real test is keeping the right humidity and temp with some airflow. How do you know how MUCH airflow? Using soffits as you suggested and passive ventilation will allow some, but how do I know if it is enough? I've heard some people using computer fans, I would imagine that would create quite a pull of air constantly. Is that needed?

Computer/muffin fans are usually only needed if things get too hot. Natural chimney effect should be fine. In many cases, natural chimney effect will affect more air changes than an all-screen enclosure (depending on Δt ).

How much airflow? You don't need a wind tunnel or anything—just enough to keep the air from becoming stale or pathogen-laden. Based on experience and what I'm seeing, I would say four 3" dia vents across the bottom of the back (at substrate height) ought to be more than enough.

I love the idea of just adding a few soffits right above the substrate level and if these slits are at the top, (which I'm pretty sure they are), use that just for some additional air flow.

No. For a chimney effect, you want the only intakes at the bottom, and the only outtake the ceiling screen. If you don't wind up replacing the back, you can cover the slits. If the slits are at/near the top, the air will flow (for the most part) in the slits and directly out the top without drawing the air out of the rest of the enclosure.