Cham n00b here ||Please critique my set-up

Macharius

New Member
Hello chameleonforums. I have been lurking here for a few weeks and have had my chameleon for one week now. I wanted to post some pics of my set- up and ask a few questions. I really want to have a healthy and happy chameleon so any tips from you old pros would be very welcome.

Cage Info:

* Cage Type - aluminum mesh 16x16x26
* Lighting - when i got him i was sold a dual CL hood with a 5 uvb and 2.5uvb. after reading a few posts here I went out and bought a reptisun5.o tube and hood, however it is not pictured because iI was going to change it over tonight while he is sleeping.
* Temperature - temps are from 70-low 90's. I have a acurite digital gauge set in the middle of his cage. basking temp is about 85-95 depending on the time of day. lower in the cage it is about 75.
* Humidity - lowest measured is 40%. It stays between 40 and 50 and spikes to 60-70 after misting. Humidity is measured with the acu-rite. I run his fogger 30-45 minutes every 3 hours or so during the day, on a timer.
* Plants - 1 med ficus tree that I have had for 16 years, and 1 new hibiscus.
* Placement - Cage is on a a file cabinet in my office. on the second floor. there is a ceiling fan in the room but it is not used. The room is unoccupied 85% of the day, otherwise I am in there on my PC. cage is 3 feet off the floor.
* Location - Louisville KY. BTW relative humidity outside last night was 85%, so hopefully thats a good thing for him, not so much for me haha.


Chameleon Info:

* Your Chameleon - Veiled cham, Male (? or so I was told), 4 months. I have had it 1 week.
* Handling - He has been out twice for maybe 10 mins each time, so I could re-arrange a few things in his cage. I have tried to pick him up once or twice since then, but he crawls away from me, so I give him his space.
* Feeding - 5-10 crickets a day. Crickets are eating apples and flukers cricket quencher. dusted with, reptocal, reptivite, a spray that my local pet store has, and regular, on an alternating basis ( reptocal one day repto vite the next regular the next etc..)

* Watering - Misting 3 or 4 times a day, 8 am 12 pm 5 pm 8 pm. 2 minutes or until everything is soaking. It all dries up in about 15 minutes. I also have a dripper that runs while I am at work 8-5. I have seen him drink twice.
* Fecal Description - I dont know, havent seen any poop lately. Has not been checked for parasites.


He seems like a pretty happy guy. I have only seen him go to brown once, otherwise he has been a nice bright green or a light green. Eyes are very active, and he hunts down his food pretty quickly. OK, so anything at all I should change? The pet store I got him from was very helpful, but I am sure the real knowledgebase is on this forum:D

*Am I overdoing the vitamins?
*I dont want to handle him too much, but I dont want him to be mean when he gets older, so any tips on that would be great.
*Should I turn off the basking lamp when I expect daytim temps to be in the 90's? Or, what temp is too much?
 

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Wow, very impressive. Normally there are many areas that need to be fixed with new chameleon owners. But I feel like your off to a great start. The cage looks good and you are using the correct supplies. Hats off to you.
 
Concerning the supplements...I can't remember how much calcium, D3, phosphorous and preformed vitamin A are in the supplements you mention...and I'm being "lazy" and not looking it up again...so...this might help...
Exposure to UVB allows the chameleon to produce D3 which allows it to use the calcium in its system. The UVB can come from a UVB light or from the sunlight and should not pass through glass or plastic.

Because many of the feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorous, I dust at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder (Rep-cal) to help make up for it.

I dust twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A because beta carotene won't build up in the system. However, its not proven whether all/any chameleons can convert it so some people give a powder with a prEformed source of vitamin A once in a while. PrEformed vitamin A can build up in the system though and excess preformed vitamin A can prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD.

I also dust twice a month lightly with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder since my chameleons usually get their UVB from lights. D3 from SUPPLEMENTS can build up in the system too...so don't overdo it.

A good nutritious diet and gutloading will keep your insects healthy and help the chameleon as a result too.

Appropriate temperatures allow for good digestion and thus play a part in nutrient absorption too.

Its important to have a balance between the calcium, D3, vitamin A and phosphorous for good bone health and other functions in a chameleon...so look at what you feed the chameleon, what you feed to the insects and what you supplement with when trying to balance these things.
 
Welcome to the boards Mach,

If your humidity hangs right around the 40-50% mark there is really no need to run the fogger. Veileds are one of the species that doesn't require high humidity. There country of origin is not very cool and humid, but rather dry and hot.


A veiled around 4 months will be comfortable with a basking spot between 83-85 degrees. If you suspect it is going to be a hot day you are going to need to either change the bulb, run the air conditioner, or shut the basking light off all together. remember they need a temperture gradient of about 10 degrees, ie: 84 @ basking spot, 74 @ cage bottom. That will provide a spot to warm up, and a spot to cool down.


-Jay
 
anybody notice the coil UV bulbs there??


nevermind.... i should read everything first..

KIller cage!
 
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Hello Macharius

I think you're off to a great start with your chameleon. You might consider offering more than just crickets, and you might consider improving/varying what you feed the crickets/prey insects a bit. Here's some info on that subject for your consideration: https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/sandrachameleon/75-feeder-nutrition.html

If you post a close-up picture of the back of the hind feet, folks may be able to confirm he is a he.

Im not sure there is any way to ensure a chameleon will not be aggressive when its older. Many of them do not enjoy being handled - especially not inside their cage/ their territory.

Dont let the temp go over 90F - yes change the heat bulb to a lower wattage, raise it up away, or turn it off all together if its going to be extra hot that day.
 
Thanks for the replies, very informative and helpful.

dust at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder (Rep-cal) to help make up for it.....dust twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed)....also dust twice a month lightly with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder

Phos free calcium almost every feeding, twice a month beta carotene powder, and a D3 powder. Got it :) Just curious, how do chams get their calcium in the wild?

change the bulb, run the air conditioner, or shut the basking light off all together.

I have set the basking lamp to go off from 3 - 530 and will see how that effects the cage temps and go from there. I may end up with a lower wattage bulb until winter. It is currently a 100 watt.

offer more than just crickets

Im not sure there is any way to ensure a chameleon will not be aggressive when its older. Many of them do not enjoy being handled - especially not inside their cage/ their territory.

I will try some different insects next week. I tried Super Worms but he was NOT interested.

Is there an established guideline for handling? I dont want to stress hm out, but at the same time I would like him to be as comfortable with me as possible, and I am unsure if establishing a bond while he is young is important or not.

Also, I apparently bought a "REPTA sun" bulb made by flukers instead of a "REPTI sun" bulb from zoo med. Should I return it and order the zoo med bulb or will the Flukers suffice?
 
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