Chameleon tail curled at the end???

[KhameleonMomz]

So it’s been about a week or so since Nolan fell from about 3 feet. At this point I’m kind of worried about his tail. He does curl it and use it but it goes sideways when it’s straight and he doesn’t curl it super tight like normal. It also seems to jet out rather than be perfectly curled together. I’m worried! I am going to make an appointment with the vet but I’m hoping nothing is broken since he constantly has to use it, I’m worried he’s in pain.

 

[ERKleRose]

Could you post some pictures, please?

 

[KhameleonMomz]

Could you post some pictures, please?

 

[KhameleonMomz]

It’s not perfectly straight and tight it’s kind of loose and curved which is my concern. He also hasn’t been interested in food very much the past 3 days. He’ll eat only a couple of crickets but no wax worms which are his favorite treat.

 

[KhameleonMomz]

He normally eats about 3 crickets and 6 wax worms a day.

 

[KhameleonMomz]

Could you post some pictures, please?

I gave him some metacam which is a pain medication to help him a little bit but we won’t have a for sure answer till Monday when he sees his doctor. I’m just hoping I can keep him comfortable and healthy till then.

 

[ERKleRose]

Ouch! I honestly have no idea about his tail or pain meds or anything, as I’ve never gone through something like it. Wait for the vet, and see if some more keepers experienced or researched with this reply is my best advise. Thanks for the pics, though, and good luck!

 

[KhameleonMomz]

Ouch! I honestly have no idea about his tail or pain meds or anything, as I’ve never gone through something like it. Wait for the vet, and see if some more keepers experienced or researched with this reply is my best advise. Thanks for the pics, though, and good luck!

Thank you! I’m just hoping he eats soon, he’s super picky so some days he just goes on strike so I’m hoping that’s it.

 

[cham girl]

He looks healthy , mine sometimes go 5 days without food when they shed or are being picky don’t worry.

 

[Beman]

How old is he that your still feeding that much every day?

Per the tail... And the prior fall. If he is having issues fully gripping to where he is falling then letting him climb on things like your blinds is an accident waiting to happen especially if the tail is not working as it should.

Be careful medicating especially if he is not hydrated well. I know you have posted about a few issues prior. have you ever done a husbandry review?

 

[KhameleonMomz]

How old is he that your still feeding that much every day?

Per the tail... And the prior fall. If he is having issues fully gripping to where he is falling then letting him climb on things like your blinds is an accident waiting to happen especially if the tail is not working as it should.

Be careful medicating especially if he is not hydrated well. I know you have posted about a few issues prior. have you ever done a husbandry review?

He’s going to be a year old on March 8th, he seems to grip fine it just sits very strangely. But you’re right I should probably avoid anything tall till we see the doctor. And I have not!

 

[ERKleRose]

He’s going to be a year old on March 8th, he seems to grip fine it just sits very strangely. But you’re right I should probably avoid anything tall till we see the doctor. And I have not!

Could you? Don’t forget to answer everything in max detail and include pics of his full cage/free range area, his lights, and him

 

[Beman]

He’s going to be a year old on March 8th, he seems to grip fine it just sits very strangely. But you’re right I should probably avoid anything tall till we see the doctor. And I have not!

He should only be eating every other day to 3 days a week. 2-3 feeders per feeding....
I would fill out the help form and be detailed in your responses.

 

[KhameleonMomz]

He should only be eating every other day to 3 days a week. 2-3 feeders per feeding....
I would fill out the help form and be detailed in your responses.

Could someone maybe give me the form I cannot find it?

 

[KhameleonMomz]

By the way, I checked on Nolan at night (humidity at 80%) temperature at night is about 70-72 degrees, and his tail was hanging of the side branch which just the end curled. As far as I know he’s always curled it super tightly at night.

 

[Beman]

Could someone maybe give me the form I cannot find it?

Be very detailed in your responses and post pics of the enclosure and the cham

Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
• Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
• Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
• Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
• Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
• History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
• Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
• Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
• Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
• Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
• Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
• Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:

1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
2. Photos can be very helpful.

 

[KhameleonMomz]

Be very detailed in your responses and post pics of the enclosure and the cham

Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
• Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
• Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
• Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
• Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
• History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
• Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
• Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
• Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
• Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
• Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
• Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:

1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
2. Photos can be very helpful.

* my chameleon is 10 months old, he is a male veiled chameleon, we have had him since he was 2 months old.
* handling at least once a day
* I feed Nolan 3-4 large crickets and 5-6 wax worms daily, he also eats on occasion Dubai roaches, hornworms, strawberries, watermelon, spinach, calci-worms, and mango. Using calcium powder daily when feeding, and vitamin D3 powder once every 2 weeks, as well as a vitamin supplement monthly. He eats at around 9 am daily, and again around 6pm (food is available until bedtime). Gutloading crickets with orange crickets cubes, as well as lettuce, spinach, and carrots.
* we have a zoo med dripper for water and use a hand held mister for hydration but are upgrading to a mister within the next month. We mist the tank 3-4 times daily for about 2-3 mins. each time. The dripper goes all day until bedtime. I have only seen him drink a handful of times but he’s urates are white and I hand feed him water every other day about 1ml or until he stops drinking.
* he’s urates are white and normal. He urates daily, and poops about every other day. He has been tested for parasites and came back clear.
* my chameleon was given to us in poor condition over the months that we had him he developed a calcium deficiency and broke his two front legs with heavy rehab he recovered in 8 weeks.
* he has a 36x24 exo terra cage, he has a 9-9 schedule, we have a uvb bulb with a dual component that also works as a heat lamp, we also have an extra heat lamp due to the current cold weather, and a ceramic lamp at night to keep temperatures moderate.
* he’s humidity at night runs about 75% and 40% during the day, his lights are 7inches from the closest basking branch. His day time temps are 80-95 (80 at the bottom and 95 at the highest branch for basking), night time temps are 70-75 usually 72. To measure humidity and temperature we have a thermometer and a humidity checker in the cage mid way between the top and bottom.
* his old enclosure had a mixture of fake and live plants but his new one now has only real plants. We have a ficus tree, dracenas, bromeliads, bird’s nest, pothos, and fern.
* it is located on a desk next to the window. The height of the enclosure to the floor is about 3 feet.
* I live in south texas.
Current problem:
His tail is not curling completely and I’m afraid it may be fractured after a recent fall, he is also on his 3rd of no food but is drinking.

 

[KhameleonMomz]

These are all the pictures I have of the enclosure but we have changed the enclosure completely in the last 2 days except for the big tree outside.

 

[ERKleRose]

My feedback and any questions will be in red. I‘ll also post helpful links and images at the end.

* my chameleon is 10 months old, he is a male veiled chameleon, we have had him since he was 2 months old.
* handling at least once a day Are you forcing him to or does he want to come out of his enclosure because he genuinely wants to (and not because the enclosure makes him uncomfortable)? How do you handle him? How long is he usually out of his cage? Do you take him outside? If so, for how long (it could change your D3 supplement schedule)?
* I feed Nolan 3-4 large crickets and 5-6 wax worms daily, he also eats on occasion Dubai roaches, hornworms, strawberries, watermelon, spinach, calci-worms, and mango. He eats at around 9 am daily, and again around 6pm (food is available until bedtime). Gutloading crickets with orange crickets cubes, as well as lettuce, spinach, and carrots. He needs insects only! No fruits or vegetables! He also only needs 2-3 appropriately sized (and properly gutloaded and supplemented) feeders every 2-3 days, as he is an adult. No feeding at night, just in the morning! Waxworms should only be used as treats and hornworms as treats and for a hydration boost. He should have a big variety of “staple” feeders. Though there should be no staples, just the healthier types of insects. Stop using the orange cubes ASAP, they hold no nutritional value, along with the spinach! Your gutload needs more variety and healthier options. Please read over the gutload and feeder charts I’m posting below.
* Using calcium powder daily when feeding, and vitamin D3 powder once every 2 weeks, as well as a vitamin supplement monthly. Does your calcium powder contain phosphorus or D3? What brands are your supplements? A phosphorus-and-D3-free quality calcium powder should be used every feeding, except for when using other supplements. A multivitamin with D3 should be used once every two weeks. Stop the additional monthly vitamin supplement, only the multivitamin with D3 is needed. Does your multivitamin with D3 have pre-formed Vitamin A in it?
* we have a zoo med dripper for water and use a hand held mister for hydration but are upgrading to a mister within the next month. We mist the tank 3-4 times daily for about 2-3 mins. each time. The dripper goes all day until bedtime. I have only seen him drink a handful of times but he’s urates are white and I hand feed him water every other day about 1ml or until he stops drinking. If your humidity allows it, only mist in the morning and late afternoon/night when the cage is cooler. How do you hand feed him water? Their airways are the front of their mouths, so you have to be extremely careful!
* he’s urates are white and normal. He urates daily, and poops about every other day. He has been tested for parasites and came back clear. How many samples were checked, and how long ago was it?
* my chameleon was given to us in poor condition over the months that we had him he developed a calcium deficiency and broke his two front legs with heavy rehab he recovered in 8 weeks. Does your vet have good, reputable chameleon experience? Did you ever do (anymore if you already have) bloodwork or x-rays? Is his grip nice and strong or does he still have issues?
* he has a 36x24 exo terra cage While that cage is pretty, it is not functional for him. The cage is actually a Thrive 18” x 18” x 24” tall terrarium. He needs (depending on his health), a minimum cage size of 2’ x 2’ x 4‘ tall, but preferably 4’ x 2’ x 4’ tall or bigger. Bigger is always better! Could you post recent pics of his cage from after the redo?
*he has a 9-9 schedule, we have a uvb bulb with a dual component that also works as a heat lamp, we also have an extra heat lamp due to the current cold weather, and a ceramic lamp at night to keep temperatures moderate. his lights are 7inches from the closest basking branch. His day time temps are 80-95 (80 at the bottom and 95 at the highest branch for basking), night time temps are 70-75 usually 72. To measure humidity and temperature we have a thermometer and a humidity checker in the cage mid way between the top and bottom. He needs a linear T5 High Output fixture with a matching size linear UVB bulb ASAP! The compact coil UVB bulbs can hurt chameleons’ eyes and don’t provide the correct amounts of UVB! The fixture should be at least the length of whatever bigger enclosure size you get for him or a foot longer. The linear UVB bulb needs to be either an Arcadia 6% (general rule is to replace it once a year or sooner) or a Zoo Med 5.0 (general rule is to replace it 6-9 months or sooner). Make sure to hang the fixture the correct length away from his basking branch (as his enclosure is too short for that strength to be resting on the top of his cage)! Get a Solarmeter 6.5 UVI meter to make sure his basking levels are appropriate and to check/know when to replace his linear UVB bulbs, if you can afford it. Is his basking heat bulb a mercury vapor bulb or a blue or red reptile bulb or something else? He needs a regular white light household incandescent bulb for his heat bulb. It should be a minimum of 7-9” away from is casque. You’ll have to play around with the wattages to get the correct one. His basking temps are WAY TOO HIGH! It should be 80-85*F (85*F as the max)! His ambient temps (temps near the bottom of his cage) should be no higher than 75*F. Preferably low 70’s. Stop using the ceramic heat emitter ASAP! Chameleons prefer a temp drop at night, and veileds can comfortably handle as cold as the mid-fifties. What type(s) of thermometer(s) do you use? You need a minimum of one (if not more) digital thermometer with probe, the probe hanging where his casque/top of his back is when he’s on his basking branch, possibly a digital infrared temp gun to spot check areas, and digital thermometer-hygrometer combos to measure ambient temps and humidity levels.
* he’s humidity at night runs about 75% and 40% during the day, To measure humidity and temperature we have a thermometer and a humidity checker in the cage mid way between the top and bottom. What type of hygrometer do you use? Humidity levels are good.
* his old enclosure had a mixture of fake and live plants but his new one now has only real plants. We have a ficus tree, dracenas, bromeliads, bird’s nest, pothos, and fern. Could you please post an updated picture of his cage? Great job on taking out all fake plants! Did you take out the fake vines with leaves on them, too? How did you clean off his live plants? Did you cover the soil in the plant pots with rocks too big for him to eat, as well? Make sure all plants you use are chameleon safe!
* it is located on a desk next to the window. The height of the enclosure to the floor is about 3 feet. Can he see his reflection in either the window or his current cage? Is the window energy efficient or does it let in heat and cold?
* I live in south texas.
Current problem:
His tail is not curling completely and I’m afraid it may be fractured after a recent fall, he is also on his 3rd of no food but is drinking. Please take him to an experienced chameleon vet ASAP! Make sure to do everything I listed in your chameleon history section! Three days of no food is fine.

Here are the links and images:
https://chameleonacademy.com/veiled-chameleon-care/
https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/
https://www.chameleons.info/en/
http://www.muchadoaboutchameleons.com/
https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/external-resources/

 

[KhameleonMomz]

My feedback and any questions will be in red. I‘ll also post helpful links and images at the end.

* my chameleon is 10 months old, he is a male veiled chameleon, we have had him since he was 2 months old.
* handling at least once a day Are you forcing him to or does he want to come out of his enclosure because he genuinely wants to (and not because the enclosure makes him uncomfortable)? How do you handle him? How long is he usually out of his cage? Do you take him outside? If so, for how long (it could change your D3 supplement schedule)?
* I feed Nolan 3-4 large crickets and 5-6 wax worms daily, he also eats on occasion Dubai roaches, hornworms, strawberries, watermelon, spinach, calci-worms, and mango. He eats at around 9 am daily, and again around 6pm (food is available until bedtime). Gutloading crickets with orange crickets cubes, as well as lettuce, spinach, and carrots. He needs insects only! No fruits or vegetables! He also only needs 2-3 appropriately sized (and properly gutloaded and supplemented) feeders every 2-3 days, as he is an adult. No feeding at night, just in the morning! Waxworms should only be used as treats and hornworms as treats and for a hydration boost. He should have a big variety of “staple” feeders. Though there should be no staples, just the healthier types of insects. Stop using the orange cubes ASAP, they hold no nutritional value, along with the spinach! Your gutload needs more variety and healthier options. Please read over the gutload and feeder charts I’m posting below.
* Using calcium powder daily when feeding, and vitamin D3 powder once every 2 weeks, as well as a vitamin supplement monthly. Does your calcium powder contain phosphorus or D3? What brands are your supplements? A phosphorus-and-D3-free quality calcium powder should be used every feeding, except for when using other supplements. A multivitamin with D3 should be used once every two weeks. Stop the additional monthly vitamin supplement, only the multivitamin with D3 is needed. Does your multivitamin with D3 have pre-formed Vitamin A in it?
* we have a zoo med dripper for water and use a hand held mister for hydration but are upgrading to a mister within the next month. We mist the tank 3-4 times daily for about 2-3 mins. each time. The dripper goes all day until bedtime. I have only seen him drink a handful of times but he’s urates are white and I hand feed him water every other day about 1ml or until he stops drinking. If your humidity allows it, only mist in the morning and late afternoon/night when the cage is cooler. How do you hand feed him water? Their airways are the front of their mouths, so you have to be extremely careful!
* he’s urates are white and normal. He urates daily, and poops about every other day. He has been tested for parasites and came back clear. How many samples were checked, and how long ago was it?
* my chameleon was given to us in poor condition over the months that we had him he developed a calcium deficiency and broke his two front legs with heavy rehab he recovered in 8 weeks. Does your vet have good, reputable chameleon experience? Did you ever do (anymore if you already have) bloodwork or x-rays? Is his grip nice and strong or does he still have issues?
* he has a 36x24 exo terra cage While that cage is pretty, it is not functional for him. The cage is actually a Thrive 18” x 18” x 24” tall terrarium. He needs (depending on his health), a minimum cage size of 2’ x 2’ x 4‘ tall, but preferably 4’ x 2’ x 4’ tall or bigger. Bigger is always better! Could you post recent pics of his cage from after the redo?
*he has a 9-9 schedule, we have a uvb bulb with a dual component that also works as a heat lamp, we also have an extra heat lamp due to the current cold weather, and a ceramic lamp at night to keep temperatures moderate. his lights are 7inches from the closest basking branch. His day time temps are 80-95 (80 at the bottom and 95 at the highest branch for basking), night time temps are 70-75 usually 72. To measure humidity and temperature we have a thermometer and a humidity checker in the cage mid way between the top and bottom. He needs a linear T5 High Output fixture with a matching size linear UVB bulb ASAP! The compact coil UVB bulbs can hurt chameleons’ eyes and don’t provide the correct amounts of UVB! The fixture should be at least the length of whatever bigger enclosure size you get for him or a foot longer. The linear UVB bulb needs to be either an Arcadia 6% (general rule is to replace it once a year or sooner) or a Zoo Med 5.0 (general rule is to replace it 6-9 months or sooner). Make sure to hang the fixture the correct length away from his basking branch (as his enclosure is too short for that strength to be resting on the top of his cage)! Get a Solarmeter 6.5 UVI meter to make sure his basking levels are appropriate and to check/know when to replace his linear UVB bulbs, if you can afford it. Is his basking heat bulb a mercury vapor bulb or a blue or red reptile bulb or something else? He needs a regular white light household incandescent bulb for his heat bulb. It should be a minimum of 7-9” away from is casque. You’ll have to play around with the wattages to get the correct one. His basking temps are WAY TOO HIGH! It should be 80-85*F (85*F as the max)! His ambient temps (temps near the bottom of his cage) should be no higher than 75*F. Preferably low 70’s. Stop using the ceramic heat emitter ASAP! Chameleons prefer a temp drop at night, and veileds can comfortably handle as cold as the mid-fifties. What type(s) of thermometer(s) do you use? You need a minimum of one (if not more) digital thermometer with probe, the probe hanging where his casque/top of his back is when he’s on his basking branch, possibly a digital infrared temp gun to spot check areas, and digital thermometer-hygrometer combos to measure ambient temps and humidity levels.
* he’s humidity at night runs about 75% and 40% during the day, To measure humidity and temperature we have a thermometer and a humidity checker in the cage mid way between the top and bottom. What type of hygrometer do you use? Humidity levels are good.
* his old enclosure had a mixture of fake and live plants but his new one now has only real plants. We have a ficus tree, dracenas, bromeliads, bird’s nest, pothos, and fern. Could you please post an updated picture of his cage? Great job on taking out all fake plants! Did you take out the fake vines with leaves on them, too? How did you clean off his live plants? Did you cover the soil in the plant pots with rocks too big for him to eat, as well? Make sure all plants you use are chameleon safe!
* it is located on a desk next to the window. The height of the enclosure to the floor is about 3 feet. Can he see his reflection in either the window or his current cage? Is the window energy efficient or does it let in heat and cold?
* I live in south texas.
Current problem:
His tail is not curling completely and I’m afraid it may be fractured after a recent fall, he is also on his 3rd of no food but is drinking. Please take him to an experienced chameleon vet ASAP! Make sure to do everything I listed in your chameleon history section! Three days of no food is fine.

Here are the links and images:
https://chameleonacademy.com/veiled-chameleon-care/
https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/
https://www.chameleons.info/en/
http://www.muchadoaboutchameleons.com/
https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/external-resources/

Okay I’ll for sure starting working on everything! He lets me take him out and it’s usually for about an hour a day, he only goes outside during the summer and it’s usually for about 30 mins. once a week maybe since I work and also have to do constant supervision. His doctor has 25 years of experience and specializes in exotics, he always does x-rays and parasite checks. I take Nolan every 3-4 months for check ups. Due to covid his last visit was in September so it’s a bit overdue but we will be at the doctors on Monday. His grip seems to be completely fine and he climbs just fine, it’s just the tail being angled and not curling that seems to be the issue. I think he can see his reflection possibly, and we cleaned the plants by rinsing them and disinfecting them as well as completely taking out the soil they were in an placing a pet safe organic soil. We have layers of leca, characol, isopods, dirt, and then leaves on top of everything. I will have to take pictures of new enclosure. But the uvb is the same light for now so I’ll have to change it however it says where the correct placement should be on the box and it says as long as it’s more than 6 inches away. He’s very energetic which is strange because when he broke his arms the first time around he was completely out of it, could barely move, and didn’t eat or drink, he also didn’t have the energy to even try to hide in a higher place. He just stayed at the bottom of the cage and was shaking in pain so I’m not really sure how he is so responsive and normal.