Kaitlynbusta330
New Member
What temperature does a chameleons body have to be able to. Eat and digest food in a healthy manner
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She’s a veiled chameleon. I bought a temperature gun and measured her body temp and it was 93.2 degrees Fahrenheit, but she was in her basking spot. She hasn’t been eating really anything so I was wondering if maybe the temperature in the cage isn’t right for digestion.
I bought a temperature gun, I just haven’t removed the other gages. I want to get a pothos, but I don’t known how I’m going to put it in my cage because the cage isn’t not tall, I would rather have real plants, I’m just not sure how I’d set it up. And that is what her fecal looks like, I meant that it all looks the same, like no changes in it. I gutload my crickets with lettuce, apples, and I’ve used potatoes one time. I also bought the cricket diet, it’s the orange cubes? I can’t remember the name. Today I got her to eat 2 crickets because I would put them next to her and she’s open her mouth up at them and I’d pop one in her mouth and she would eat it. I don’t want this to be how I have to feed her.Thanks for filling out the form.
He/she which you can tell by looking at the back of its feet and see if there is a tarsal spur, your picture is to blurry and I can't tell.
I have a few suggestions.
1- It needs way more foliage in the middle and top, they love to have cover and hide to feel safe. Live plants are great to help with the humidity as well. I like pothos, they are easy to find and grow, there is a safe plant list with other varieties on here as well, make sure you wash both sides of the leaves well.
2- I would remove the substrate on the bottom, if ingested it can be an impact issue especially with he/she being so small.
3- The temp and humidity gauge you have are very inaccurate, also they are not at all telling you what the actual basking spot is, an infrared temp gun is much more accurate and you can just "scan" the spot and immediately know the temp.
4- I would move the light to one side or the other so there is more of a temp. gradient, also I would switch to a linear(long tube) bulb so the whole enclosure can have uvb rather than just one spot like you get with the coil type. I use Reptisun t5 HO 5.0. Also 100 w bulb seems way to strong for such a small enclosure, babies dehydrate very quickly.
5- What are you gut loading(feeding) the crickets? I would also get rid of the mealworms they are not a great feeder, you could switch to superworms. Also variety of feeders is key, some suggestions are hornworms, silkworms, dubia roaches, black soldier fly larvae. She/he should be eating anywhere from 10-15 appropriate size feeders every day.
6- Her fecal should have a brown area and a white tip(urates), you said it all looks the same color?
Also I have a 60w bulb instead of my 100w bulb, should I switch it to the 60w?