She needs a quality phosphours-free calcium without D3 on every feeding (especially since she’s a female!). A couple good brands are Zoo Med ReptiCalcium without D3 or Repashy SuperCal NoD. She also needs a quality multivitamin with D3 and preformed Vitamin A in it once every two weeks. A couple good brands are Zoo Med Reptivite with D3 or Repashy Calcium Plus LoD. What brand and strength of T5 High Output linear UVB do you have? How old is the bulb, and how far away is it from her basking branch? Superworms shouldn’t be used as staple feeders, and your gutload needs improvement. I’ve attach great feeder and gutload charts below, variety is key for both! Could you also fill out this form in as much detail as possible, please, including pics of your cham’s lights and her full cage (lights to bottom), as well?
I would still recommend filling out the form to make sure everything else is correct. Make sure to start using the proper supplements on the correct schedules, as it is vital for her health!
Great with the gutload and supplements! She’ll be way healthier and hopefully have enough calcium to not have to use any from her bones to form the eggs! After she lays, she’ll need a cage upgrade, though. The minimum size is either 36” x 18” x 36” tall or 2’ x 2’ x 4’ tall, but preferably 4’ x 2‘ x 4’ tall or bigger. Bigger is always better! How old is her UVB bulb, and how far away is it from her basking branch? If you don’t have a Solarmeter 6.5 to check the actual UVI levels, the Arcadia bulbs need to be replaced yearly, or when the UVI readings are cut in half (when measured with a Solarmeter 6.5). The distance is important as well. If it’s too close, there is overexposure of UVB, and if it’s too far away, there is underexposure of UVB. Her basking temps could be lower, and her nighttime temps can definitely go lower and into the 60*s. For measuring her basking temp, it is better to use a digital thermometer with a probe, with the probe placed where her casque/top of her back is when she’s on her basking branch. Knowing humidity levels is crucial! I used 3 digital thermometer-hygrometer combos to measure ambient temps and humidity levels throughout the cage, with one placed at the top of her cage near her basking branch, one in the middle of the cage, and one at the bottom. The daytime humidity levels need to be between 50-60% and can up to 100% at night. The Chameleon Academy is a great resource with the most accurate and up-to-date info, so I would definitely check out every module and the panther species profile, as well as the podcasts, and more if you haven’t done so aready!
Once I see her roam the bottom I plan to place her into the 5 gallon bucket about 60% of the way filled with damp play sand that will be placed in front of her cage with the screen door open. There will also be extra pieces of branch inside for her to climb out if she feels the need or is not ready to lay yet that will allow her to climb back into her cage.
They’ll eat the eggs
