Gravid Colors

[Lys368]

• Your Chameleon - Veiled chameleon, female, and 6-7 months
• Handling - Once a week or less
• Feeding - Eats large crickets, Hornworms, Mealworms, and Waxworms. I gut load my feeders with fruit and veggies. (will take any other food recommendations)
• Supplements - Repti-calcium without d13 6 days a week and with d13 once a week.
• Watering - Misting about 3 to four times a day. Automatic mister or spray bottle, with clean water.
• Fecal Description - Fecal is soft, and urates are healthy.
• History - Nothing needed to note.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Screen cage, 24x24x48
• Lighting - T5HO 5.0. 100watt basking spot bulb. 12 hours each during the day.
• Temperature - Basking spot: 85-90. Temp in day, 70 to 80. Night: 65-75.
• Humidity - Day: 30 - 50%. Night: 70 - 100%. I am using a humidifier (At night) and I have a temp gauge in cage.
• Plants - Dracaena, Rubber plant, and Pothos
• Placement - Cage in the corner of the room. No vents near the cage.
• Location - Arizona

In the last 2 days Ana has displayed gravid colors and is starting to scratch at her cage. This is her first egg laying and she hasn't started rejecting food yet (always been a real good eater). I put an egg laying bin in last week when I noticed size change, but is there a time frame from when gravid colors start to when she will lay her eggs? Her cage has been covered 2 days now and I have not noticed any wandering to the bottom of the cage even with the laying bin down there, she basks for the most part. I read about some having to physically put their girls in the bin, I have washed play sand and a Pothos plant in the sand. Any recommendations? I am worried about egg bounding especially for her first lay.

 

[GrayMadder]

• Your Chameleon - Veiled chameleon, female, and 6-7 months
• Handling - Once a week or less
• Feeding - Eats large crickets, Hornworms, Mealworms, and Waxworms. I gut load my feeders with fruit and veggies. (will take any other food recommendations)
• Supplements - Repti-calcium without d13 6 days a week and with d13 once a week.
• Watering - Misting about 3 to four times a day. Automatic mister or spray bottle, with clean water.
• Fecal Description - Fecal is soft, and urates are healthy.
• History - Nothing needed to note.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Screen cage, 24x24x48
• Lighting - T5HO 5.0. 100watt basking spot bulb. 12 hours each during the day.
• Temperature - Basking spot: 85-90. Temp in day, 70 to 80. Night: 65-75.
• Humidity - Day: 30 - 50%. Night: 70 - 100%. I am using a humidifier (At night) and I have a temp gauge in cage.
• Plants - Dracaena, Rubber plant, and Pothos
• Placement - Cage in the corner of the room. No vents near the cage.
• Location - Arizona

In the last 2 days Ana has displayed gravid colors and is starting to scratch at her cage. This is her first egg laying and she hasn't started rejecting food yet (always been a real good eater). I put an egg laying bin in last week when I noticed size change, but is there a time frame from when gravid colors start to when she will lay her eggs? Her cage has been covered 2 days now and I have not noticed any wandering to the bottom of the cage even with the laying bin down there, she basks for the most part. I read about some having to physically put their girls in the bin, I have washed play sand and a Pothos plant in the sand. Any recommendations? I am worried about egg bounding especially for her first lay.

You'll want to add in a multivitamin for her. If you plan to use the same schedule you'll want a multi vitamin with out d3 twice a month so that she can get her vitamin A.

What veggies/fruits are you gutloading with?

Your basking temps are little too high for a veiled as well. You want around 78-82 nothing higher than 85.


I'll tag someone with more knowledge for egg laying.

@kinyonga @Beman

@MissSkittles

 

[Lys368]

You'll want to add in a multivitamin for her. If you plan to use the same schedule you'll want a multi vitamin with out d3 twice a month so that she can get her vitamin A.

What veggies/fruits are you gutloading with?

Your basking temps are little too high for a veiled as well. You want around 80-82 nothing higher than 85.


I'll tag someone with more knowledge for egg laying.

@kinyonga @Beman

Yes! i was actually just given a vitamin with vitamin A from her vet, i should at that to her knowledge sheet. But got it, ill back up the light a little and I gut load with alfalfa sprouts, lettuce, apples, carrots, bell pepper sometimes grapes.

 

[GrayMadder]

Yes! i was actually just given a vitamin with vitamin A from her vet, i should at that to her knowledge sheet. But got it, ill back up the light a little and I gut load with alfalfa sprouts, lettuce, apples, sometimes grapes.

I attached the gutloading sheet for you. Try following this for the best gutload.

 

[GrayMadder]

I'm not super experienced with egg laying, but this may help until someone can answer all your questions.. I do know that the high temps and over feeding your cham can cause a big clutch.
The temps I suggested will help to control the clutch to a reasonable size for her. ❤

 

[MissSkittles]

Has she gone thru her receptive phase yet? Usually for their first laying, they’ll go from their baby solid green to showing teals and orange/ mustard colors and then be very restless. That usually lasts a week to three. Then she’ll start getting plump and slowing down a bit (although tell that to one of my gravid girls!) Anywhere from 3 weeks out (varies per lady & husbandry) you can expect egg laying to happen. Just keep the lay bin ready and when she needs it, she’ll find it.

 

[Lys368]

Has she gone thru her receptive phase yet? Usually for their first laying, they’ll go from their baby solid green to showing teals and orange/ mustard colors and then be very restless. That usually lasts a week to three. Then she’ll start getting plump and slowing down a bit (although tell that to one of my gravid girls!) Anywhere from 3 weeks out (varies per lady & husbandry) you can expect egg laying to happen. Just keep the lay bin ready and when she needs it, she’ll find it.

Yes definitely receptive, she just started her teal and orange phase a couple days ago. 2 to be exact, and that was my main curiosity because many said once the colors showed their girls stopped eating completely. That didn't happen in Anas case, she's still moving and eating as before. Her laying been has been in for a week now, since I noticed size change, so when she is ready it will be there!

 

[MissSkittles]

Each chameleon does things their own way, much like us. Some ladies do stop eating or eat less when receptive and when nearing laying. Mine are little tree pigs and nothing gets in the way of their meals. Btw, your little lady is very beautiful.

 

[Beman]

@MissSkittles @AmandaS Can you go through the husbandry form above for this female?

 

[kinyonga]

You said..."many said once the colors showed their girls stopped eating completely"...they usually don't stop eating until they are close to laying and it doesn't always happen at all. It might have to do with how full of eggs they are.

They produce a clutch about 30 to 40 days after becoming non-receptive. It varies.

How much have you feed her in a week lately?

Unless there is a reproductive tract issue or a deformed egg, etc there is usually no egg binding issue ...as long as she has a suitable place to lay the eggs, privacy and the husbandry has been good...no constant overfeeding...temperatures not too high.

 

[MissSkittles]

@MissSkittles @AmandaS Can you go through the husbandry form above for this female?

Sure!

 

[MissSkittles]

All looks pretty good except for the things I’ll be addressing in red.

• Your Chameleon - Veiled chameleon, female, and 6-7 months
• Handling - Once a week or less
• Feeding - Eats large crickets, Hornworms, Mealworms, and Waxworms. I gut load my feeders with fruit and veggies. (will take any other food recommendations) How many bugs each feeding and often are you feeding? Anything above about 5-6 feeders every other day is too much. After she lays her eggs, you’ll feed her well for 2-3 days (silkworms and hornworms are great to help rehydrate her) and then cut her back to 3-4 feeders 3 days a week. That will help reduce clutch size and frequency of laying. Mealworms aren’t really great for chams...not much nutrition and high chitin. Wax worms should be treats only as they are fattening.
• Supplements - Repti-calcium without d13 6 days a week and with d13 once a week. So the calcium with D3 should be once every other week. Then you need to add a multivitamin one feeding every other week (alternate week than the D3).
• Watering - Misting about 3 to four times a day. Automatic mister or spray bottle, with clean water.
• Fecal Description - Fecal is soft, and urates are healthy.
• History - Nothing needed to note.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Screen cage, 24x24x48
• Lighting - T5HO 5.0. 100watt basking spot bulb. 12 hours each during the day. If you get a 60w basking bulb, that should bring your temps down to ideal range of around 80.
• Temperature - Basking spot: 85-90. Too hot. Lower temps will act with reduced feeding in reducing laying, as well as generally prolonging her life a bit. Temp in day, 70 to 80. Night: 65-75.
• Humidity - Day: 30 - 50%. Night: 70 - 100%. I am using a humidifier (At night) and I have a temp gauge in cage.
• Plants - Dracaena, Rubber plant, and Pothos Hopefully you don’t have any fake plants. As veileds eat their plants, they have been known to eat a fake leaf and get impacted. I hang my fake plants on the outside for extra privacy.
• Placement - Cage in the corner of the room. No vents near the cage.
• Location - Arizona

In the last 2 days Ana has displayed gravid colors and is starting to scratch at her cage. This is her first egg laying and she hasn't started rejecting food yet (always been a real good eater). I put an egg laying bin in last week when I noticed size change, but is there a time frame from when gravid colors start to when she will lay her eggs? Her cage has been covered 2 days now and I have not noticed any wandering to the bottom of the cage even with the laying bin down there, she basks for the most part. I read about some having to physically put their girls in the bin, I have washed play sand and a Pothos plant in the sand. Any recommendations? I am worried about egg bounding especially for her first lay. Already addressed this. Except for the lack of multivitamin, I don’t believe she should have any problems. Poor husbandry is perhaps the primary cause of the majority of egg binding. Unless the girl has been having problems (due to poor husbandry), you don’t need to do a thing except keep an eye on her. Once she enters her lay bin, cover just the visible parts of her enclosure. If she sees anyone watching, she may stop digging. I use a light sheet that I’ve cut holes in so I can discretely peek. The whole process may take a day or two, from start to finish and she may sleep in her tunnel. When you see her sitting on her basking branch looking thinner and her tunnel is covered, she is done. Since laying takes so very much out of our poor little ladies and shortens their lives, we try to reduce clutch size and laying frequency. It does work well...neither of my ladies have laid since last year.

 

[MissSkittles]

My sweet Stella just entered her lay bin. This is what she looked like on Monday, to give you an idea of gravid coloring. Each chameleon’s colors and patterns are different and honestly this is much more dark and pronounced than Stella’s previous or my other lady’s.

And this is my other lady, who I also suspect is gravid. The day of her very first laying, she actually looked pale and washed out.

 

[Lys368]

All looks pretty good except for the things I’ll be addressing in red.

• Your Chameleon - Veiled chameleon, female, and 6-7 months
• Handling - Once a week or less
• Feeding - Eats large crickets, Hornworms, Mealworms, and Waxworms. I gut load my feeders with fruit and veggies. (will take any other food recommendations) How many bugs each feeding and often are you feeding? Anything above about 5-6 feeders every other day is too much. After she lays her eggs, you’ll feed her well for 2-3 days (silkworms and hornworms are great to help rehydrate her) and then cut her back to 3-4 feeders 3 days a week. That will help reduce clutch size and frequency of laying. Mealworms aren’t really great for chams...not much nutrition and high chitin. Wax worms should be treats only as they are fattening.
• Supplements - Repti-calcium without d13 6 days a week and with d13 once a week. So the calcium with D3 should be once every other week. Then you need to add a multivitamin one feeding every other week (alternate week than the D3).
• Watering - Misting about 3 to four times a day. Automatic mister or spray bottle, with clean water.
• Fecal Description - Fecal is soft, and urates are healthy.
• History - Nothing needed to note.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Screen cage, 24x24x48
• Lighting - T5HO 5.0. 100watt basking spot bulb. 12 hours each during the day. If you get a 60w basking bulb, that should bring your temps down to ideal range of around 80.
• Temperature - Basking spot: 85-90. Too hot. Lower temps will act with reduced feeding in reducing laying, as well as generally prolonging her life a bit. Temp in day, 70 to 80. Night: 65-75.
• Humidity - Day: 30 - 50%. Night: 70 - 100%. I am using a humidifier (At night) and I have a temp gauge in cage.
• Plants - Dracaena, Rubber plant, and Pothos Hopefully you don’t have any fake plants. As veileds eat their plants, they have been known to eat a fake leaf and get impacted. I hang my fake plants on the outside for extra privacy.
• Placement - Cage in the corner of the room. No vents near the cage.
• Location - Arizona

In the last 2 days Ana has displayed gravid colors and is starting to scratch at her cage. This is her first egg laying and she hasn't started rejecting food yet (always been a real good eater). I put an egg laying bin in last week when I noticed size change, but is there a time frame from when gravid colors start to when she will lay her eggs? Her cage has been covered 2 days now and I have not noticed any wandering to the bottom of the cage even with the laying bin down there, she basks for the most part. I read about some having to physically put their girls in the bin, I have washed play sand and a Pothos plant in the sand. Any recommendations? I am worried about egg bounding especially for her first lay. Already addressed this. Except for the lack of multivitamin, I don’t believe she should have any problems. Poor husbandry is perhaps the primary cause of the majority of egg binding. Unless the girl has been having problems (due to poor husbandry), you don’t need to do a thing except keep an eye on her. Once she enters her lay bin, cover just the visible parts of her enclosure. If she sees anyone watching, she may stop digging. I use a light sheet that I’ve cut holes in so I can discretely peek. The whole process may take a day or two, from start to finish and she may sleep in her tunnel. When you see her sitting on her basking branch looking thinner and her tunnel is covered, she is done. Since laying takes so very much out of our poor little ladies and shortens their lives, we try to reduce clutch size and laying frequency. It does work well...neither of my ladies have laid since last year.

I apologize for the late response, super busy. She eats about 5 to 6 depending on the size whether its a cricket or a horn worm for example. Okay noted for the mealworms ill definitely cut back. Thank you for the pointers. She has a multivitamin given by her vet, totally forgot to add that!

I ordered a new bulb for her and set the branch lower so the temp isn't so high for now. No fake plants in the enclosure, Its a real rubber plant with the big leaves, she quite likes it I'll drop a picture.

Anytime we've had a vet visit she's been incredibly healthy which is good to hear especially as a first time chameleon owner. As for laying, she hasn't done so yet which makes me quite nervous so I downsized. I put her laying bin which is a home depot bucket full of washed play sand with a pothos inside so she can lay near the roots. She hasn't been interested in it at all, won't even go near it. I set her in it without forcing her and she just climbed right out. Should I try something new? I am slightly worried, still eating good and starting scratching at her walls in the last week. Asks to come out often and I grant her that, she will sit on her door while I'm getting ready for work.