Help Vieled chameleon not eating

So when I’ve been during feeding him I always grab him by the casque , that dosent have anything to do with it ?
So when I syringe feed him the only way I can get him to open his mouth is by grabbing him by the cask he won’t open it any other way I’ve tried all the different techniques and that’s the only way I understand it stresses him out but Chamaeleon that’s not interested in eating isn’t going to open his mouth without being pissed off
 
So when I syringe feed him the only way I can get him to open his mouth is by grabbing him by the cask he won’t open it any other way I’ve tried all the different techniques and that’s the only way I understand it stresses him out but Chamaeleon that’s not interested in eating isn’t going to open his mouth without being pissed off
I’ll post a video in a different thread and tag you.
 
Hi. :) I’ve got some questions.
Have you seen any fresh poos?
Has he ever been tested for parasites?
How many feeders do you usually give him and how often (prior to his hunger strike)?
How do you offer his feeders? A cup or feeding station or just drop them in his enclosure?
If you’d like, we can go over all of your husbandry at once rather than ask 20 million questions back and forth. The question form is here. https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/how-to-ask-for-help.66/
 
Welcome you have a good looking boy there. I recently swithed to the larger cage too and my cham quit eating everything but hornworms. thankfully they are in season and even though they are high in calcuim it is still not enough. so i shoot liquid calcium into tA hirm worm and he goobles it down. I offer him everything else everyday. Crickets, dubias, superworms, mealworms. Two days ago he started taking a couole mealworms too. I also leave out and offerby hand collard greens with has the most vit K and A then other greens. The thing is to keep trying and be patient. In adfition to getting rid of the moss and getting the lights right, i suggest you buy a shower curtain liner a thick one and seal the back and one side of the cage. Cut to fit and tape diwn on the outside. This will help with warmth and humidity. Also if the ac the coming thru the top, get an umbrella open it and tape it to the back to prevent cold air coming into it from the top. I kniw there has been some questions about posdibls mbd by the bent casque. I think your chams forearms look a bit big. Was thinking possible gout or mbd. i know it is expensive but a vet visit may be called fore. if you do get him to a vet fir a check up make sure ti take a fecal sample and asked for luquid calcium. Until you get the lights right start right now taking him out in the sun. Good luck. I hope my suggestions help.
 
Hi. :) I’ve got some questions.
Have you seen any fresh poos?
Has he ever been tested for parasites?
How many feeders do you usually give him and how often (prior to his hunger strike)?
How do you offer his feeders? A cup or feeding station or just drop them in his enclosure?
If you’d like, we can go over all of your husbandry at once rather than ask 20 million questions back and forth. The question form is here. https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/how-to-ask-for-help.66/
I have seen a couple fresh ones have never been tested for parasites, are usually give him like seven or eight crickets I would say honestly I’m not too sure because I put in more than he eats and it’s always in a cup if you look at the pictures of the enclosure you can see the cup in there and that has never ever been a problem but I would say about four weeks ago he stopped eating but I wouldn’t let him go longer than a week without syringe feeding him water and repti boost
 
Welcome you have a good looking boy there. I recently swithed to the larger cage too and my cham quit eating everything but hornworms. thankfully they are in season and even though they are high in calcuim it is still not enough. so i shoot liquid calcium into tA hirm worm and he goobles it down. I offer him everything else everyday. Crickets, dubias, superworms, mealworms. Two days ago he started taking a couole mealworms too. I also leave out and offerby hand collard greens with has the most vit K and A then other greens. The thing is to keep trying and be patient. In adfition to getting rid of the moss and getting the lights right, i suggest you buy a shower curtain liner a thick one and seal the back and one side of the cage. Cut to fit and tape diwn on the outside. This will help with warmth and humidity. Also if the ac the coming thru the top, get an umbrella open it and tape it to the back to prevent cold air coming into it from the top. I kniw there has been some questions about posdibls mbd by the bent casque. I think your chams forearms look a bit big. Was thinking possible gout or mbd. i know it is expensive but a vet visit may be called fore. if you do get him to a vet fir a check up make sure ti take a fecal sample and asked for luquid calcium. Until you get the lights right start right now taking him out in the sun. Good luck. I hope my suggestions help.
Thank you very much , it’s about to be winter time here so we’re not using the air conditioner anymore actually starting today so I’m getting rid of the second heat lamp for night time and I do actually have a shower curtain all the way around it
 
Welcome you have a good looking boy there. I recently swithed to the larger cage too and my cham quit eating everything but hornworms. thankfully they are in season and even though they are high in calcuim it is still not enough. so i shoot liquid calcium into tA hirm worm and he goobles it down. I offer him everything else everyday. Crickets, dubias, superworms, mealworms. Two days ago he started taking a couole mealworms too. I also leave out and offerby hand collard greens with has the most vit K and A then other greens. The thing is to keep trying and be patient. In adfition to getting rid of the moss and getting the lights right, i suggest you buy a shower curtain liner a thick one and seal the back and one side of the cage. Cut to fit and tape diwn on the outside. This will help with warmth and humidity. Also if the ac the coming thru the top, get an umbrella open it and tape it to the back to prevent cold air coming into it from the top. I kniw there has been some questions about posdibls mbd by the bent casque. I think your chams forearms look a bit big. Was thinking possible gout or mbd. i know it is expensive but a vet visit may be called fore. if you do get him to a vet fir a check up make sure ti take a fecal sample and asked for luquid calcium. Until you get the lights right start right now taking him out in the sun. Good luck. I hope my suggestions help
May sound stupid but I do have liquid calcium without d3 is it beneficial to syringe feed him a tiny bit mixed with water ?
 
Air conditioning ? How are you confused I just didn’t want the temp to get too low in the cage at night , I do usndeestand about the temp drop and they need it but just thought it shouldn’t get below 65 . And it gets about 60 degrees sometime
I understand why you run the AC unit and the nighttime temps you run are good. I was confused by this sentence you wrote:

"So the blue light is just a night light that I keep on during the day and night because of the air conditioner"

It made me think you keep the blue light on day and night because of the AC. But maybe you just meant it's a night light. Which isn't needed - they like it dark (like in the wild) to have deep sleep.
 
Rainbow mealworms.com has fecal test kit for $25. Comes with full instructions and prepaid mail ti send it to a lab. Included in price.
 
So with feeding, if you’re using the flukers repti care (whatever it’s called) you need to be careful with calcium intake as you can give them too much of it.
So do you guys recommend giving him the repti care while he’s not eating , if so should o be doing it every day ? Or should I be patient and try and get him to eat first cuz I’m thinking part of the reason he might not be eating is cuz he’s full on the repti care
 
So do you guys recommend giving him the repti care while he’s not eating , if so should o be doing it every day ? Or should I be patient and try and get him to eat first cuz I’m thinking part of the reason he might not be eating is cuz he’s full on the repti care
So, give him a few days and not feed him, then see if he’ll accept food, if not. Id give him 2 syringes of repti care a week, then repeat the process of trying to get him to eat. Syringe feeding is really stressful for these guys.

You should do as @MissSkittles and do a husbandry/care review. She’s really good at giving helpful info.
 
There may be something going on that isn’t visible. A visit with a vet experienced with chameleons and having a fecal check is always best. Depending on your budget, they can do blood work and x rays to better evaluate him.
Absolutely I’m willing to spend whatever I need to I have bearded dragon and a couple tegus also that have gone to the vet , just new with chameleons
 
Welcome to the forums. A couple things I see is you do not have a linear uvb bulb and I'm not sure what they purple light is. Also, moss should be removed a replaced with live plants as it will cause impaction and death if eaten. How long have you had him? What bugs do you offer him? What are your supplements and supplement schedule?
So one linear UVb fixture that stretches across the top of the cage , repti sun 5.0 bulb bulb will be good enough for uvb ?
 

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There may be something going on that isn’t visible. A visit with a vet experienced with chameleons and having a fecal check is always best. Depending on your budget, they can do blood work and x rays to better evaluate him.
So now that I am checking temperatures with that night light off my basking spot is only about 73F
 
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