HELP!

[Klyde O'Scope]

That foam you have may be an issue. Their tongueS are very strong and have suction. So if he shoots his tongue out to get a feeder that is on that foam he might get some foam too. I have no idea what its made of but it cant be good for his intestines.

It's urethane foam, which has a long history of health-related issues for humans, and if it ever gets near an open flame or catches fire, be somewhere else. It can release cyanide gas.
https://archive.epa.gov/epa/saferchoice/potential-chemical-exposures-spray-polyurethane-foam.html
https://www.livestrong.com/article/297783-urethane-foam-health-effects/

I (naively) worked with and around it full-time for 3 years, and I'll never use it again.
IME, problems can occur at one or more of many stages—manufacturing, mixing, transportation, storage (respect shelf life) conditions, application, wear & tear (UV will degrade it). Some of this makes it hard to prove causation, and easy to shift blame/responsibility to the end user. IMO, it's more prickly than chameleon husbandry.

i see these commercials about a rubber sealant that you can paint on. It might work. Also all raw pine wood needs to be sealed.

I've used Flex Seal (after much research) on my Missus' tortoise table. IME/O, spray or liquid depends on the situation. Think about whether claws/nails might come in contact and scratch through. Liquid is much thicker and multiple coats will hold up to clawing/scratching better than thin spray coats. If no possibility of scratching through it, a couple/few coats of spray should be fine. I say multiple coats because there can always be pinholes, thin spots, or even gaps, so 2nd/3rd coats are more likely to fill.

I have not used Drylok, so no experience/opinion either way,.

 

[redhorse]

JMHO-- If I would have known what Klyde O'Scope shared. Instead of seeing something cool at the Reptile Show or youtube. I would never had experimented with it.

I have stopped using it because of the insect issue but would never have tried with above information. Unfortunately youtube and other hobbyists take a little (or big depending on persons) gamble.

Please don't get me wrong, your work is great and looks awesome, but would think of all the new information provided above.

I have vivarium and cage just sitting in the garage with the foam stuff and will be cleaning it all out once I get the energy. Lost lots of $$ for the health of critters by removing the set-ups and starting with new stuff.
Wish I had the information above and understanding before attacking my set-ups. JMHO

 

[Klyde O'Scope]

JMHO-- If I would have known what Klyde O'Scope shared. Instead of seeing something cool at the Reptile Show or youtube. I would never had experimented with it.

I have stopped using it because of the insect issue but would never have tried with above information. Unfortunately youtube and other hobbyists take a little (or big depending on persons) gamble.

Please don't get me wrong, your work is great and looks awesome, but would think of all the new information provided above.

I have vivarium and cage just sitting in the garage with the foam stuff and will be cleaning it all out once I get the energy. Lost lots of $$ for the health of critters by removing the set-ups and starting with new stuff.
Wish I had the information above and understanding before attacking my set-ups. JMHO

We've all been there one way or another—I sure have.

One tip I can pass along is (almost) never apply anything directly to an enclosure that may need to be changed or torn out later. Instead, apply it to something else to create a 'panel' that can be removed, replaced, or whatever. An example of this is my beardie box.

Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain lizard on the log—he's only a tenant!

Instead of gluing the backsplash tiles directly to the plywood, I cut a piece of fiberboard to size, glued the backsplash to it, and it's held in and against the back with a few wire brads hidden between the individual tiles.

Likewise the 12x24 slate floor tiles are not glued or grouted. I lined the bottom of the box with vinyl non-slip shelf liner, taped the joints & edges with duct tape, friction-fit the tiles, and filled the perimeter gaps with wood strips cut to size.

I can remove any/all of the floor tiles or the back wall for deep cleaning or later remodeling without damaging the integrity of the enclosure itself.

 

[Vegas Chad]

View attachment 315925
His new enclosure is much larger and will have a lot of plant coverage with vertical and horizontal climbing/basking points (top branch is 10 inches from where lights will be in this one

That will be a fine looking cage when you are done!