How many hours of UVB is actually neccessary?

[ChillinKillinScream]

So I recently started free ranging my veiled, and the thing is he would rather run around my bed or my room and explore or sit in the window all day than stay in his trees (which are higher than anything else in my room) and under his lights. Now I am worried that he wont be getting enough UVB or heat to regulate his body temperature. If I pick him up somewhere in my room and move him to his bushes, chances are as soon as I'm not within sight or watching him he leaves again. Will he be okay? Or should I buy a desk lamp and place a UVB in it and leave it with him where ever he posts up? He does seem to stay under it for at least a few hours a day in the least.

 

[ChillinKillinScream]

Oh, and another problem thats less of an issue for now, is that I cannot for the life of me get my lighting to 90 degrees no matter the wattage of the lightbulb, or wether its intense basking spot or a normal incandescent type bulb. I currently am trying a 100watt daytime heatbulb and I cant find any temps above 80. Maybe using a second one would help?

 

[jannb]

When they free range they will go to the UVB light when they need it. They will also go to the basking light when they want to warm up. Just keep them available for him and he should be fine.

What's the highest temps under the basking light? I bask my veileds in the high 80's. I often use the MegaRay bulbs in my free ranges. It's UVB and basking all in one. Just be sure you don't have cords around so he can get to the light and get a burn.
https://www.amazon.com/Mega-Ray-Mer...9_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=FKM485PJX6RJZ77B8SDM

 

[Remkon]

I'd provide UVB on the spot he basks (in front of the window?).

It's hard to say how long they need to be exposed to UVB since there are to many variables like the brand and type of the lamp , distance to the lamp, the age of the lamp, if your cham is still growing a lot, if he gets natural sunlight and how often etc... But your cham will 'expect' to get UVB while basking.

 

[ChillinKillinScream]

Currently with the 100watt I put in today its barely reaching about 80 degrees so far. If I lower it anymore he will just be able to grad hold of the hood and climb on. And thats good to know he will go back when and if he needs it, I dont want him getting sick and dying from running around my room. When its sunny out and not 100 degrees I plan on opening up the window for a few hours as well so he can actually have the real sun from his 2nd story window as well. And how well do the megaray bulbs work I was looking into them but was finding mixed reviews.

 

[BryanP]

How are you measuring your temps?

One this I noticed while taking temp data with the IR gun that I use is that the IR "probe" is a cone shape and depending on distance you could be getting an average of a larger area. I was having a similar issue of temps until I did 2 things. I got an actual thermometer so that it could get to temperature and get an accurate reading and then I also put a piece of white paper under the light and was able to use the IR gun to get the temp of the paper.

Try that and see what you get.

 

[jannb]

Currently with the 100watt I put in today its barely reaching about 80 degrees so far. If I lower it anymore he will just be able to grad hold of the hood and climb on. And thats good to know he will go back when and if he needs it, I dont want him getting sick and dying from running around my room. When its sunny out and not 100 degrees I plan on opening up the window for a few hours as well so he can actually have the real sun from his 2nd story window as well. And how well do the megaray bulbs work I was looking into them but was finding mixed reviews.

I love them and been using them for years. I have a UVB meter and most last more than two years. The 100 watt would put off all the heat and UVB that you would need. Here's some info about MegaRay:
http://www.reptileuv.com/

 

[Extensionofgreen]

I disagree with some of the facts above.
For example, while people do it often, it is not good to force a chameleon to have intense UVB exposure in order to warm itself. Yes, basking in nature, they get exposed to UVB, but they can seek out temperature gradients that include UVB gradients, in filtered light and shade. I always provide basking sites that don't include UVB, though use of Mercury Vapor bulbs is a great idea for a free range situation.
I also think that you need to determine why the chameleon doesn't prefer the free range and make some attempt to confine him, so he doesn't get lost, trodden on, mashed by a door, or into other trouble. Use a smooth "fence" around the bottom of the free range area, so that if he climbs down, he can't go wandering into unintended areas. If the free range is properly set-up, the chameleon should prefer to be there and not inclined to wander off, frequently, though some wandering is expected.
As far as your basking temps go, you could try a narrower dome, that focuses the beam in a smaller area, look into other bulb options, measure the distance between the basking spot and fixture and typical ambient temps, then consult Todd at lightyourreptiles.com.
How are you providing enough hydration and oppertunity for eye flushing, in the free range?
Some chameleons are better caged, if the animal or environment does not suit a free range situation.

 

[rminnis]

Oh, and another problem thats less of an issue for now, is that I cannot for the life of me get my lighting to 90 degrees no matter the wattage of the lightbulb, or wether its intense basking spot or a normal incandescent type bulb. I currently am trying a 100watt daytime heatbulb and I cant find any temps above 80. Maybe using a second one would help?

its all about how far or close the bulb is

 

[ChillinKillinScream]

I think I'll try out one of those megarays pretty soon, I switched back to his old bulb which gets to around 83-84 in spots. Usually when I measure with the gun I scan him, and a couple of areas around him. I do have the height measured to be somewhere about 8-10 inches along the basking area. Any lower, which I've tried he just stands up on his hind legs, steadies himself with his tail, and crawls straight onto it.

I disagree with some of the facts above.
For example, while people do it often, it is not good to force a chameleon to have intense UVB exposure in order to warm itself. Yes, basking in nature, they get exposed to UVB, but they can seek out temperature gradients that include UVB gradients, in filtered light and shade. I always provide basking sites that don't include UVB, though use of Mercury Vapor bulbs is a great idea for a free range situation.
I also think that you need to determine why the chameleon doesn't prefer the free range and make some attempt to confine him, so he doesn't get lost, trodden on, mashed by a door, or into other trouble. Use a smooth "fence" around the bottom of the free range area, so that if he climbs down, he can't go wandering into unintended areas. If the free range is properly set-up, the chameleon should prefer to be there and not inclined to wander off, frequently, though some wandering is expected.
As far as your basking temps go, you could try a narrower dome, that focuses the beam in a smaller area, look into other bulb options, measure the distance between the basking spot and fixture and typical ambient temps, then consult Todd at lightyourreptiles.com.
How are you providing enough hydration and oppertunity for eye flushing, in the free range?
Some chameleons are better caged, if the animal or environment does not suit a free range situation.

I hand mist constantly throughout the day, and typically during at least one of the many misting's he'll stand right out in the open and let me mist him, he loves it. And yesterday I hung a another plant covering hiding another section of his zone and since then he's stayed in it until I open up or raise my blinds. Which I made a little path along the wall too the window and am now leaving a couple of fake plants in. I just need to get a little UVB lamp incase he wants to stay there for a while.