Humidity/Misting/Watering

[jukeboxpunk]

I recently bought a veiled chameleon from an expo in Manchester NH. The chameleon is about 2 months old and has been eating crickets from my hand in addition to crickets on the side of the cage and on the branches. So overall very healthy, eating between 10 - 20 daily.

I have provided some images of the cage I set him up in. It is a 18L x 12w x 24H screened enclosure, with a humidifier pumping humid air through a vacuum hose into the enclosure. The lighting provides both UVB and UVA in addition to temperatures between 80 - 90 degrees in the basking spot. Cooling areas range in temperatures from 70 - 80 degrees. At night the temps drop significantly to around 50 - 70 degrees, depending on the air inside the apartment.

My question or should I say my observation has been that the chameleon has yet to drink water. Not only is the humidifier providing adequate humidity levels, it also is acting a dripper. Drops of water fall every now and then and land on the live plant at the bottom of the enclosure and collecting on the leaves. Today I took a broken branch and collected some dew on the end of it and gently placed the dew on the chameleon's nose. The drop sat there until it evaporated or he dropped it. I did not see actually lick it up. Do chameleons stay hydrated through absorbing moisture?

 

[krug1313]

I'm sure everything will be fine. I have yet to see a few of my chams drink. Keep an eye on the chams stool and eyes. If the stool is an orange color then yes there is a hydration issue. Also the eyes will appear sunken. Hope this helps.

 

[jukeboxpunk]

thanks

Hey thanks for the help.

His stools appear to be healthy, black in body with a portion of white and kind of moist. Thanks again for the help.

steve

 

[casperpetersen]

my advice...

Be aware of lung infections when you are using a humidifier!
some individuals can easely get lung infections if the humidity is to high.
It often come to once attention when the little guy makes "click" sounds when breathing...

use a handsprayer/rainsystem in the morning(minimum one min.)
and then once a week you let him get a lot of warter...

The humidity,should as a general rule be as low as possible in the day30-50%(North yemen calyptrtus higher), maximum 70% for a short period. (North yemen calyp... 85%).
At night, the humidtety should be higher.

and maybe he would be happy with some more green plants that he could hide in.

 

[Sang]

He looks good, but Add ALOT more vines, plants and stuff, he will enjoy the coverage.

and the plants will help increase humidity to the point were you won't need the humidifier anymore, or were you only need it for a short time of the day. .

 

[jukeboxpunk]

Progress...

So far my little guy has only eaten crickets from either my finger, or crickets on the branches. Crickets normally want a cool place to reside and climbing on the limbs and plants really is not what they normally would do. In addition, I have noticed that my chameleon will not go to the lower level of the enclosure.
So I have devised a little food-type bucket only storing crickets in it. The bucket resides over a few limbs from the branch (FYI: all plants and branches have been properly sanitized). The chameleon comes down to the mid-level just over the bucket and snags his prey whenever he is hungry. Today is the first day I have tried this little experiment. I only keep between 10 - 15 crickets in the bucket. The crickets are unable to get out for now. I do not know if this bucket is a bad idea. If anyone has any recommendations please advise me so.
Day humidity resides between 40-60, while night humidity resides at 60-80. I have yet to hear any hissing or snapping noises come from him. I will post some pics of the changes tonight when I get home from work. I really wish I had the capability to blog this.

 

[Julirs]

I would not constantly pump humidity into the cage-you are risking URI. Can you put it on a timer to pump a few times a day?
Crickets go where the heat is! You will often find them in the basking spot! If your little guy will cup feed form the bucket all is well, but if he is eating free range that is fine.
Do you know the brand of light you are using? When you said UVA and UVB that throws a big red flag...

 

[jukeboxpunk]

lighting/supplements...

The lighting consists of 1, 150w Daylight bulb (Sun-Glo) and 1, 26w, 5.0 UVB bulb (Repti-Glo). Both are from the company Exo-Terra. The Sun-Glo is providing heat between 80-90 degrees.

Supplements that I have been using for the past few days are Miner-All w/ Vitamin D3, Herptivite, and Calcium w/ Vitamin D3. I wasn't sure if the chameleon need another multi-vitamin powder without Vitamin D3. Let me know what you guys think.

I am also trying to work out a better schedule for feeding and powdering its food. The care sheet informs me of their schedule that they used while the 2 month old was with his buddies.

Mon - Weds : calcium w/o D3
Fri - Sat : calcium w/D3
Sun - Herptivite
Sun - Opposite Sun: Miner-All

Currently I am doing the following:

Mon - Sat : Miner-All
Sun : 1/2 the feed Herptivite, 1/2 the feed Calcium w/D3

Any suggestions would greatly be appreciated.

 

[jukeboxpunk]

Also...

The humidifier is constantly flowing; however, during the day I reduce it to the point I can barely see it. Currently the New England area is getting drier from the changing of the seasons, so I thought constantly pumping a low level of humidity would compensate for the drier air. At night and in the morning I turn up the humidifier to simulate the actual environment. Let me know what you think. By the way what exactly is a URI? I am new and need to be informed. Thanks

 

[TonyRockyHorror]

URI is Upper Respiratory Infection caused usually by excessive humidity levels. And having a humidifer on all day, not matter how low its set, is pretty risky. I would only use it in between mistings for a few minutes. I'd also recommend live plants like Schefflera or Ficus Benjamina, as plants add extra humidity, reducing the need to have the humidifier on all the time.

How often are you misting, how long, and what are you using to mist. Misting is always better than a humidifier. I'd invest in an automatic misting system, you'll need one eventually. I personally don't use humidifiers - I don't find they're necessary with a combination of a good misting schedule and live plants. My 6 week old panther is perfectly hydrated and drinks like a fish.

 

[jukeboxpunk]

hydration

My enclosure has a live pothos plant at the base and a stick consisting of many branches. From the mid to high level I have a fake vine with many leaves acting as a canopy with several exposed areas for basking.

I mist several times a day, in the morning before work I mist really well and I put the humidifier on high for several minutes, then reduce it to low. When I get home from work, I mist really well and water the plant. The humidifier stays on low until before I turn the lights out. After the lights are off I then crank the humidifier up on high for several minutes then back to low. While it is on low it acts as a drippe. Water droplets form overhead and fall onto the live plant. On low, my hygrometer reads between 40 -50 and on high it reads 60 - 70.

I use bottled water, 1 gallon jugs from the grocery store instead of tap water.

 

[TonyRockyHorror]

You have a good enough misting regimine, sounds like - I wouldn't have the humidifier on all day. At night, when he's sleeping there's actually no need to have it on at all.

 

[Julirs]

The lighting consists of 1, 150w Daylight bulb (Sun-Glo) and 1, 26w, 5.0 UVB bulb (Repti-Glo). Both are from the company Exo-Terra. The Sun-Glo is providing heat between 80-90 degrees.

Supplements that I have been using for the past few days are Miner-All w/ Vitamin D3, Herptivite, and Calcium w/ Vitamin D3. I wasn't sure if the chameleon need another multi-vitamin powder without Vitamin D3. Let me know what you guys think.

I am also trying to work out a better schedule for feeding and powdering its food. The care sheet informs me of their schedule that they used while the 2 month old was with his buddies.

Mon - Weds : calcium w/o D3
Fri - Sat : calcium w/D3
Sun - Herptivite
Sun - Opposite Sun: Miner-All

Currently I am doing the following:

Mon - Sat : Miner-All
Sun : 1/2 the feed Herptivite, 1/2 the feed Calcium w/D3

Any suggestions would greatly be appreciated.

First of all, Analog humidity guages are really bad and rarely accurate. I would run that humidifier only a few times a day, I really am scared that your little one will get an URI. A few times daily would be OK. The live plants and misting will help keep up the humidity sufficiently.
Your UVB is not a twisty compact is it? Those cause eye issues in chameleons. I am hoping it is a long flourescent tube.
As for supplementing, you don't want Herptivite and Calcium in the same day...and what you are doing is all vitamins and too little calcium. tweak the one from the caresheet:
Mon - Thurs : calcium w/o D3
Fri - : calcium w/D3
Sat: nothing
Sun - Herptivite
You DO need all 3 above. As the cham gets older cut back to 2X monthly on the D3 and Herptivite-my adults get Herptivite once monthly.

Do you have a new pic with the vine you mentioned? I would get a nice big Pothos, Schefflera, or Fig and fill that cage up a bit.

 

[macro junkie]

your tank is a bit bare at the min..he will be alot happier if u create places which he can hide.i would get some plastic vines draping in the corners and 2 live plants in the middle making sure the plants come a few inchs below the top of the tank.dont worry about it not drinking..i havent seen mine drink sinse i got him until today..i think hes only drinking when my back is turned..lol

 

[jukeboxpunk]

Vines

I do have another vine; however, I didnt want it too crowded in there. I will add it though and see how the cham reacts. Yes I agree that the cham only drinks when I am not around. It is going through the shedding process as we speak.

 

[Julirs]

One more word of advice-many people on this forum have been keeping chameleons for years. So much of what you find in books and care sheets is just dead wrong. We watch people come and go, and the ones that deviate too much from the tried and true practices of the long term keepers end up with dead chameleons. It is actually sometimes a bit difficult when you do everything as correctly as you can. Exotic Vet bills are very expensive and best avoided through proper husbandry.

 

[jukeboxpunk]

Agree

I am fully aware of the numerous care sheets and husbandry books that are available and I have reviewed several of them; however, I joined this forum to obtain that information you are referring about. The real hard facts from people like you who have kept chameleons for years. I honestly appreciate the advice from everyone here. I have friends that raise rare geckos who have, in the past, raised chameleons. Some of their experiences and knowledge I have applied to get where I am. This is a learning experience for me and has been rewarding since the day I picked the cham out a week ago. Again thank you all and I appreciate your advice and help.

 

[summoner12]

URI is Upper Respiratory Infection caused usually by excessive humidity levels. And having a humidifer on all day, not matter how low its set, is pretty risky.

How often are you misting, how long, and what are you using to mist. Misting is always better than a humidifier. I'd invest in an automatic misting system, you'll need one eventually. I personally don't use humidifiers - I don't find they're necessary with a combination of a good misting schedule and live plants. My 6 week old panther is perfectly hydrated and drinks like a fish.

He is right, URI stands for a upper respiratory infection. They are caused by too much humidity in the air. The reason they exist is that your cham can't handle to humidity and the bacterial build up in its body. There are debates of whether or not it is a upper or lower respiratory issue. Most people call it a URI... but it is caused by too much bacteria in the lower respiratory system.


BUT, whatever. I think because of the dry air in the east this time of year, it is a good idea. Keep it on low and check on your cham. If your cham is getting a good basking temp and the cage isn't ALWAYS soaking in water droplets, you are fine. You do need to keep the humidity up for chams. You also need to get them dry conditions. If you can have the humidifier on a timer that cycles during the day, I would do it. If you can get a misting system, I would set it up to mist every couple of hours for a couple of minutes. I personally do four misting sessions. One at 8 for 8 minutes and then again for 8 minutes at 11, then 4 minutes at 2pm an often 2 minutes at 5pm. Others have good luck with two mistings for an extended period of time. You will have to try different settings to see what works best.

The main issue... will you see them drink? I never see my veiled Males drink. A few times I have found one of my males sitting in the mist like it was no big deal... did he drink, not that I could see. My panther is the ONLY cham other than my baby Melleri to drink in front of me. The best thing to do and the best way to judge the hydration of your cham is to take a look at its pee... or urate. If it is white, your fine.

Good luck

 

[dodolah]

hi,
just as a suggestion, here is an example of my chameleon cage.
It's far from perfect, but it will give you an idea on the volume of the plants in comparison to the cage.
I agree with Juli the way she removed MinerAll from your misting schedule.
What you have is a MinerAll I (which is proven by the pic -yellow cap).
In that case, you have been providing it with double dose of calcium with D3.

 

[jukeboxpunk]

I should buy

First of all, Analog humidity guages are really bad and rarely accurate. I would run that humidifier only a few times a day, I really am scared that your little one will get an URI. A few times daily would be OK. The live plants and misting will help keep up the humidity sufficiently.
Your UVB is not a twisty compact is it? Those cause eye issues in chameleons. I am hoping it is a long flourescent tube.
As for supplementing, you don't want Herptivite and Calcium in the same day...and what you are doing is all vitamins and too little calcium. tweak the one from the caresheet:
Mon - Thurs : calcium w/o D3
Fri - : calcium w/D3
Sat: nothing
Sun - Herptivite
You DO need all 3 above. As the cham gets older cut back to 2X monthly on the D3 and Herptivite-my adults get Herptivite once monthly.

Do you have a new pic with the vine you mentioned? I would get a nice big Pothos, Schefflera, or Fig and fill that cage up a bit.

So I should buy Calcium without D3? and work that into the schedule? I have reduced the amount of humidity I am pumping into the cage down to just in the morning before I leave for work and then at night an hour before I turn the cage off. I will go today and pick up a better thermometer and hygrometer, any suggestions on which? Also I will look for a timer too. The vines I bought are the flugger vines and I would like to buy another pothos as well, that is what is at the bottome of my tank. Thank you all for your help. Juli I did check out the care sheet you posted on your site.