Is my girl preggers or is so getting chunky?

[CoolishReagent]

We feed her 5-8 large crickets and a super worm a day twice weekly dusted with calcium, and a weekly horn worm. The main thing that has me curious is she is WAY more vibrant than she normally is and she’s looking thicker even when moving around. There are two pics of her wearing a light yellow green and looking way thinner from only a couple weeks ago and then 3-4 from yesterday and today showing much more color and looking thicker. I can reduce feeding if she’s just getting chunky, I know they need to be restricted once they get to be adults but we were advised to maintain this feeding schedule through first year or until first clutch. No behavioral changes she eats from a held bowl for some of her meals and we just drop crickets into one of the plants other times for her to hunt. We watch her a lot so we know she’s hunting and catching crickets as usual. Any help here is appreciated.

 

[PabloTheCham]

I don't own a female, but she looks a little young to be laying eggs... Also I can tell the supplement schedule is off, can you please fill this out so female owners can make sure everything's fine?

Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
Location - Where are you geographically located?

 

[CoolishReagent]

Chameleon Info:

Your Chameleon - Venus

Female Veiled, we’ve had her since June 17th got from petsmart not sure exact age.

Handling -

1-2 weekly, still trying to work towards more often handling but sometimes she’s just not having it.

Feeding -

Feed 5-8 crickets a day that are fed gut loader, leafy greens, carrot shavings, and orange slices. Plus 1 super worm daily and a horn worm weekly (read they were a great treat and good for hydration and fats)

Supplements -

Dust crickets with zoo MED repticalcium with d3 twice a week. Zoomed reptile vitamin powder 1 time a month.

Watering -

We try and keep a dripper filled all the time plus at least 1 daily misting of all plant surfaces. The dripper drops onto a pothos that we know she drinks from, also watch her drink during misting. Usually the wife stops misting when Venus seems to be over it.

Fecal Description -

Brown/white generally soft but formed. They stick where they land and I have to clean them off.

History - just for personal reference I also have a ball python, red eared slider, and med house gecko, all in separate large enclosures in different parts of the house and we attempt to provide them the best possible captive life.



Cage Info:

Cage Type -screen mesh 6’x3’x3’ yes it’s large and I built it my self. Bio active setup with clean up crew from biodude plus earth worms in soil.

Lighting - zoo med UVB T5 tube light sits on top of enclosure and a ceramic heater and regular light, plus a few led grow strips for the many plants

Temperature - 85 in warmest basking spot, 72 at lower areas measured by probe thermometers

Humidity - probe humidity detector, 60-75% depending on ambient humidity we run a fogger at night to create a humidity spike but only at night as I’ve been told during the day can cause respiratory problems.

Plants - Several pothos, some bamboo, schefler, climbing figs, a wandering Jew, and a spider plant. All plants were left out of habitat but in the house for 2 weeks then cleaned and re soiled and repotted before adding them to the enclosure. The pothos and wanderer are in hanging terracotta pots hung from hempen rope. The rest planted straight into the bioactive organic bio dude tera forma soil.

Placement - corner of living room. fan in room kept on lowest setting just to keep air in room moving no direct vents.

Location - Near Savannah GA.

 

[NashansCamos]

she looks full of eggs get the laybin ready. can we see photos of the enclosure lights down?

 

[CoolishReagent]

Hope this helps.
that thing with the fabric is a feeding flap so we can feed her without always having to open the door which we added to prevent “invading” her space as much.

 

[CoolishReagent]

she looks full of eggs get the laybin ready. can we see photos of the enclosure lights down?

the habitat floor is a substrate we bought that is supposed to allow her to naturally dig a burrow and lay her eggs

 

[C0nwayy]

We feed her 5-8 large crickets and a super worm a day twice weekly dusted with calcium, and a weekly horn worm. The main thing that has me curious is she is WAY more vibrant than she normally is and she’s looking thicker even when moving around. There are two pics of her wearing a light yellow green and looking way thinner from only a couple weeks ago and then 3-4 from yesterday and today showing much more color and looking thicker. I can reduce feeding if she’s just getting chunky, I know they need to be restricted once they get to be adults but we were advised to maintain this feeding schedule through first year or until first clutch. No behavioral changes she eats from a held bowl for some of her meals and we just drop crickets into one of the plants other times for her to hunt. We watch her a lot so we know she’s hunting and catching crickets as usual. Any help here is appreciated.

I don’t know a lot about females as males are what I focused to learn about. But she shouldn’t be laying eggs until.. 5-6 months old I think? anyone, correct me if I’m wrong. If she’s younger than that then she’s just fat.

 

[Haley Hendrix]

Chameleon Info:

Your Chameleon - Venus

Female Veiled, we’ve had her since June 17th got from petsmart not sure exact age.
Usually they’re a month or two at petsmart. So she is around 5-7 months.

Handling -

1-2 weekly, still trying to work towards more often handling but sometimes she’s just not having it.
That’s normal. They have there aggressive days.

Feeding -

Feed 5-8 crickets a day that are fed gut loader, leafy greens, carrot shavings, and orange slices. Plus 1 super worm daily and a horn worm weekly (read they were a great treat and good for hydration and fats)
Okay, you’re going to need to cut back so her clutches aren’t as big. 3-5 feeders every other day and eventually go to 3-4 feeders every few days.
Supplements -

Dust crickets with zoo MED repticalcium with d3 twice a week. Zoomed reptile vitamin powder 1 time a month.
You’re going to need Calcium without D3. This should be at every feeding except one a week and on that day you alternate between the Calcium with D3 and Multivitamin.
Monday, Wednesday, Friday - Calcium without D3
Sunday- Multivitiam or D3

Watering -

We try and keep a dripper filled all the time plus at least 1 daily misting of all plant surfaces. The dripper drops onto a pothos that we know she drinks from, also watch her drink during misting. Usually the wife stops misting when Venus seems to be over it.

Fecal Description -

Brown/white generally soft but formed. They stick where they land and I have to clean them off.

History - just for personal reference I also have a ball python, red eared slider, and med house gecko, all in separate large enclosures in different parts of the house and we attempt to provide them the best possible captive life.



Cage Info:

Cage Type -screen mesh 6’x3’x3’ yes it’s large and I built it my self. Bio active setup with clean up crew from biodude plus earth worms in soil.

Lighting - zoo med UVB T5 tube light sits on top of enclosure and a ceramic heater and regular light, plus a few led grow strips for the many plants

Temperature - 85 in warmest basking spot, 72 at lower areas measured by probe thermometers
A little to warm. You’re going to want to lower go to 78-80.

Humidity - probe humidity detector, 60-75% depending on ambient humidity we run a fogger at night to create a humidity spike but only at night as I’ve been told during the day can cause respiratory problems.
A little to high. Aim for 25-45% during the day. 80-100% at night

Plants - Several pothos, some bamboo, schefler, climbing figs, a wandering Jew, and a spider plant. All plants were left out of habitat but in the house for 2 weeks then cleaned and re soiled and repotted before adding them to the enclosure. The pothos and wanderer are in hanging terracotta pots hung from hempen rope. The rest planted straight into the bioactive organic bio dude tera forma soil.

Placement - corner of living room. fan in room kept on lowest setting just to keep air in room moving no direct vents.

Location - Near Savannah GA.

 

[salty dog]

From my experience when a female is ready she will lay her eggs, every animal is different.... you can prolong the cycle... yours is gravid..

 

[NashansCamos]

the habitat floor is a substrate we bought that is supposed to allow her to naturally dig a burrow and lay her eggs

unless it is totally bio active they shouldn't be doing this...