Little chameleon, femal, yemenies, not strong, eyes closed
- Thread starter Blackyna
- Start date
Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
Cage Info:
Cage Type - Glass, 80x40x40 centimetres
Lighting - Reptiglo 5 UVB, heating light 240 w, from 8 am. to 7.30 p.m.
Temperature - 25 C , 21 C, got a temperature inside,
Humidity - 60%
Plants - Benjamin
Placement - height 40 cm, in the mid of my room
Location - Europe, Czech republic
Current Problem - she is lazy from yesterday, eyes are closed , not active like before and I seen little of blood today and yesterday in her pooh, today even just near her bottom
Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
Cage Info:
Cage Type - Glass, 80x40x40 centimetres
Lighting - Reptiglo 5 UVB, heating light 240 w, from 8 am. to 7.30 p.m.
Temperature - 25 C , 21 C, got a temperature inside,
Humidity - 60%
Plants - Benjamin
Placement - height 40 cm, in the mid of my room
Location - Europe, Czech republic
Current Problem - she is lazy from yesterday, eyes are closed , not active like before and I seen little of blood today and yesterday in her pooh, today even just near her bottom
Your Chameleon - Yemenies, female , 7 months. How long has it been in your care -5 months
Handling -over day
Feeding - crickets 4-5 a day it is up to her how many she caught, she is not very big so I am trying to give her small crickets, but it ispossible that she ate a bigger one
Supplements - I am giving her biomin H and Roboran, the doctor told me
Watering - split drops on walls, can see her everyday drinking
Fecal Description - last week hard pooh, yesterday more water mixed little white and brown, I think not normal, yesterday in the evening little of blood,today as well. Not yet tests for parasites
She was previously very active, but these two days she is not
Cage Info:
Cage Type - Glass, 80x40x40 centimetres
Lighting - Reptiglo 5 UVB, heating light 240 w, from 8 am. to 7.30 p.m.
Temperature - 25 C , 21 C, got a temperature inside,
Humidity - 60%
Plants - Benjamin
Placement - height 40 cm, in the mid of my room
Location - Europe, Czech republic
Current Problem - she is lazy from yesterday, eyes are closed , not active like before and I seen little of blood today and yesterday in her pooh, today even just near her bottom
Handling -over day
Feeding - crickets 4-5 a day it is up to her how many she caught, she is not very big so I am trying to give her small crickets, but it ispossible that she ate a bigger one
Supplements - I am giving her biomin H and Roboran, the doctor told me
Watering - split drops on walls, can see her everyday drinking
Fecal Description - last week hard pooh, yesterday more water mixed little white and brown, I think not normal, yesterday in the evening little of blood,today as well. Not yet tests for parasites
She was previously very active, but these two days she is not
Cage Info:
Cage Type - Glass, 80x40x40 centimetres
Lighting - Reptiglo 5 UVB, heating light 240 w, from 8 am. to 7.30 p.m.
Temperature - 25 C , 21 C, got a temperature inside,
Humidity - 60%
Plants - Benjamin
Placement - height 40 cm, in the mid of my room
Location - Europe, Czech republic
Current Problem - she is lazy from yesterday, eyes are closed , not active like before and I seen little of blood today and yesterday in her pooh, today even just near her bottom
![IMG_0081[1].jpg](/data/attachments/31/31851-6b9e0e813dff8483d242edf7a3a743ea.jpg)
![IMG_0083[1].jpg](/data/attachments/31/31852-bdd26de271984240b0df7eee84789b91.jpg)
![IMG_0082[1].jpg](/data/attachments/31/31853-17a7a53526a1264bcf27e9b621606f19.jpg)
![IMG_0084[1].jpg](/data/attachments/31/31854-82ddf190c60e67c7ba629324cecf6526.jpg)
fluxlizard
Avid Member
From the photos, she looks about the same size as my veileds currently which are about 6 weeks old. But maybe I am wrong and can't judge size so well based on photos since she is a female- how long is she? In my opinion that would be a good question to add to the questionnaire with young animals.
I think she is being kept too cold and being fed too little for too long. I'm not familiar with the supplements you are using so do not know about their schedule.
The low temps and low intake of food have left her with little growth and fat reserves.
I see a fair bit of fecal matter on the floor of the terrarium. It is possible cleanliness is an issue as well and she may need to be checked for parasites and treated accordingly if she is not crashing and dying already.
Sorry I am not more help- maybe someone will come along with better advice than me.
Edit- the branches also are inappropriate for her size- she needs twigs she can get her hands around better.
Edit- I am very sorry.
I think she is being kept too cold and being fed too little for too long. I'm not familiar with the supplements you are using so do not know about their schedule.
The low temps and low intake of food have left her with little growth and fat reserves.
I see a fair bit of fecal matter on the floor of the terrarium. It is possible cleanliness is an issue as well and she may need to be checked for parasites and treated accordingly if she is not crashing and dying already.
Sorry I am not more help- maybe someone will come along with better advice than me.
Edit- the branches also are inappropriate for her size- she needs twigs she can get her hands around better.
Edit- I am very sorry.
D
DavidBuchan
Guest
She does look a bit small and underfed and dehydrated.......fluxlizard is right about the twigs - she wants to only just be able to get her feet round them to feel comfortable. The more leaves you have the better. She wants to feel like she is hidden. I think a vet would be best for her. This caresheet gives all the basic info you need to keep a veiled healthy. Part 2 has important gutloading and egg-laying info. https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/chameleonsinmyhouse/395-veiled-chameleon-care-sheet.html
Good luck
Good luck
emilybier
New Member
She looks really dehydrated to me, her eyes are sunken. You really should get her to a vet now for fluids and see if they can help you get her turned around. How often are you giving her water? You said you put drops on the walls, how many times a day are you doing that and how are you doing that?
She looks really sick and you need to get her to a vet before we can help you make her habitat better for her.
She looks really sick and you need to get her to a vet before we can help you make her habitat better for her.
SilverDragoness
New Member
Also could we get a straight on shot as well as one of the rump region. It may give us more info.
Pilotman800
New Member
100w is too much, unless the basking spot is WAY below the bulb.
5 UVB? Do you mean 5 different UVB lights? If so, thats way too many. Generally speaking, we use only 1 here on this forum.
UrbanChameleon
New Member
I think the person is saying it's a 5.0 UVB. At least I hope so.
I am sorry I would like to also infor you how big is her cage 96x44x44 centimetres specially designed for chameleon and now when she is ill she got bulb for heat SUN GLO Exo Terra 100W and one UVB light Reptiglo 5,0 UVB (26 W). SHe is still not fine the doctor give her some water to her boom,some pooh come out, but her eyes are still closed and she is not very well
The cage temperature should be in the low 80's F in the basking area (where she should sit for a good part of the time) and just slightly lower in the rest of the cage since she is young and her small body will heat and cool and dehydrate more quickly than than of an adult. Being too cool will slow her metabolism and her digestion. If she can't/won't eat on her own then you can try dripping water on the tip of her nose and when she starts to drink slip the head of an insect between her teeth so she will chomp on it and eat it. If she does not eat (spits it out) this way then she is not likely to make it.
She needs the UVB to be on for 12 hours a day and then if the cage is still not warm enough with that you can use a regular incandescent household bulb in a dome to give her enough heat. It should be of a wattage that makes the temperature in the basking area in the low 80's F. There should be no light on at night...if your house is really cold then get a heat emitting "bulb" (its not a light, but it screws in) to keep the cage temperatures in the low 70's at night. BTW...she needs to be with in range of the UVB.
She needs to be provided water a couple of times a day by misting down the cage so she can drink the droplets. You can drip water on the end of her nose, as I said above if she isn't opening her eyes and drinking on her own...but be careful that the drips are small enough and slow enough that she doesn't aspirate them.
You need to make sure she has appropriate sized crickets...the size that will fit into her mouth easily. She should be eating 15 or so proper sized crickets a day. They should be gutloaded/well fed and dusted with the proper supplements. See below for more information.
Here's some information I hope will help you with things like supplements, gutloading, etc....
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.
Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.
A wide variety of insects (crickets, locusts, silkworms, superworms, tomato worms, phoenix worms, butter worms, once in a while waxworms, etc.) that have been well fed and gutloaded should be fed to it.
Since many of the feeder insects we use in captivity have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).
If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).
Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)
Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Please note that various supplements have various amounts of D3 and vitamin A and so some can be given more often than others. The idea still is not to overdo the fat soluble vitamins like D3 and prEformed vitamin A.
Here are some good sites for you to read too...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.
She needs the UVB to be on for 12 hours a day and then if the cage is still not warm enough with that you can use a regular incandescent household bulb in a dome to give her enough heat. It should be of a wattage that makes the temperature in the basking area in the low 80's F. There should be no light on at night...if your house is really cold then get a heat emitting "bulb" (its not a light, but it screws in) to keep the cage temperatures in the low 70's at night. BTW...she needs to be with in range of the UVB.
She needs to be provided water a couple of times a day by misting down the cage so she can drink the droplets. You can drip water on the end of her nose, as I said above if she isn't opening her eyes and drinking on her own...but be careful that the drips are small enough and slow enough that she doesn't aspirate them.
You need to make sure she has appropriate sized crickets...the size that will fit into her mouth easily. She should be eating 15 or so proper sized crickets a day. They should be gutloaded/well fed and dusted with the proper supplements. See below for more information.
Here's some information I hope will help you with things like supplements, gutloading, etc....
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.
Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.
A wide variety of insects (crickets, locusts, silkworms, superworms, tomato worms, phoenix worms, butter worms, once in a while waxworms, etc.) that have been well fed and gutloaded should be fed to it.
Since many of the feeder insects we use in captivity have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).
If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).
Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)
Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Please note that various supplements have various amounts of D3 and vitamin A and so some can be given more often than others. The idea still is not to overdo the fat soluble vitamins like D3 and prEformed vitamin A.
Here are some good sites for you to read too...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.
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