Montane supplementation

Extensionofgreen

Chameleon Enthusiast
While browsing the various threads and online information regarding supplementing montane species, I am always struck by the advocation a of once or twice monthly applications of D3 and Vitamin A, specifically.
I am not aware (my next course of research) whether or not it has been proven or disproven that chameleons utilize dietary vitamin D3. I would imagine they consume very little natural sources D3 in the wild, as it is not found in any quantity in inverebrate prey. This sort of ties into my thread about feeding vertebrates. Maybe we take for granted the consumption of vertebrate prey, such as small lizards, in the wild chameleon diet. Locating, breeding, and feeding lizards would not be a very convenient prospect and I won't be taking it up.
Vitamin A is certainly needed and also in consumed in only small amounts, being concentrated in the eyes of wild prey items.

The problem I have with the frequency proposed by these sources is that, if there is a need for supplemental D3, then the chameleons need it more often, while developing and growing, or while gravid. Their bones are laying down calcium all of the time, not just twice a month. If the argument that good UVB sources are enough, why offer dietary D3, at all? I think, especially for larger chameleons that 3-5 insects per week, lightly dusted with A and D3 makes more sense. It's a low dose, it's not a feast or famine routines, and since they are fat soluable, they should be getting just enough, without accumulation. I think that more mature animals and smaller species need less, perhaps one 1-3 smaller insects per week.
I am not coming at this with no knowledge. I bred melleri and I saw animals that suffered from the fear of Vitamin A supplementation that was rampant then. I also look outside the box and found that products not marketed for reptiles or chameleons make good sense to use, for example Dendrocare. It is vitamin and mineral supplement for dart frogs that I used with success with montane species. It is gentle, geared towards tiny frogs, is created to avoid toxicity of vitamin A and D3 in the frogs, so is very safe, when used in larger chameleons. The frogs are forest floor and understory dwellers, as are the montanes and therefore, they have similar low requirements for D3.
Repashy makes a LoD3 formula, which I would think is also suitable for more frequent, yet careful applications. I will be using both products, as well as some other supplements, with my parsonii. I like to use a selection of different reputable brands, to hopefully encompass a wider range of things they need, in forms they can utilize.
I realize that taking a lighter approach may be working for people and heavier approaches may be working for others, and there are few hard facts in the supplementation of chameleons and the different requirements of different chameleon species, so it serves to reason that the road to success may not be one road at all and when we find success, we can improve upon it, instead of breathing a sigh of relief and checking that aspect of care off the list. I'm not out to reinvent the wheel or tell people to alter their regimens, because I have an opinion, but I do think research is for finding facts/information and that the application of that information requires your own analysis and own interpretation, rather than following what everyone always says is best.
Since few chameleon species are regularly bred, most recommendations are drawn from Panthers and Veileds. The people that have experience with montanes and made recommendations shared their thoughts, experiences, and opinions, and others repeated it, recycled it, and regurgitated it. That doesn't mean it isn't sound advice, but it means that the sample of of information is small and too small, at this juncture to be taken as an absolute and made into a one way approach to chameleon husbandry. Err on the side of caution, have a light touch, use experienced keepers advice as stepping stones, but use your own approaches to create your own success and be willing to try new, reasonable approaches.
 
While browsing the various threads and online information regarding supplementing montane species, I am always struck by the advocation a of once or twice monthly applications of D3 and Vitamin A, specifically.
I am not aware (my next course of research) whether or not it has been proven or disproven that chameleons utilize dietary vitamin D3. I would imagine they consume very little natural sources D3 in the wild, as it is not found in any quantity in inverebrate prey. This sort of ties into my thread about feeding vertebrates. Maybe we take for granted the consumption of vertebrate prey, such as small lizards, in the wild chameleon diet. Locating, breeding, and feeding lizards would not be a very convenient prospect and I won't be taking it up.
Vitamin A is certainly needed and also in consumed in only small amounts, being concentrated in the eyes of wild prey items.

The problem I have with the frequency proposed by these sources is that, if there is a need for supplemental D3, then the chameleons need it more often, while developing and growing, or while gravid. Their bones are laying down calcium all of the time, not just twice a month. If the argument that good UVB sources are enough, why offer dietary D3, at all? I think, especially for larger chameleons that 3-5 insects per week, lightly dusted with A and D3 makes more sense. It's a low dose, it's not a feast or famine routines, and since they are fat soluable, they should be getting just enough, without accumulation. I think that more mature animals and smaller species need less, perhaps one 1-3 smaller insects per week.
I am not coming at this with no knowledge. I bred melleri and I saw animals that suffered from the fear of Vitamin A supplementation that was rampant then. I also look outside the box and found that products not marketed for reptiles or chameleons make good sense to use, for example Dendrocare. It is vitamin and mineral supplement for dart frogs that I used with success with montane species. It is gentle, geared towards tiny frogs, is created to avoid toxicity of vitamin A and D3 in the frogs, so is very safe, when used in larger chameleons. The frogs are forest floor and understory dwellers, as are the montanes and therefore, they have similar low requirements for D3.
Repashy makes a LoD3 formula, which I would think is also suitable for more frequent, yet careful applications. I will be using both products, as well as some other supplements, with my parsonii. I like to use a selection of different reputable brands, to hopefully encompass a wider range of things they need, in forms they can utilize.
I realize that taking a lighter approach may be working for people and heavier approaches may be working for others, and there are few hard facts in the supplementation of chameleons and the different requirements of different chameleon species, so it serves to reason that the road to success may not be one road at all and when we find success, we can improve upon it, instead of breathing a sigh of relief and checking that aspect of care off the list. I'm not out to reinvent the wheel or tell people to alter their regimens, because I have an opinion, but I do think research is for finding facts/information and that the application of that information requires your own analysis and own interpretation, rather than following what everyone always says is best.
Since few chameleon species are regularly bred, most recommendations are drawn from Panthers and Veileds. The people that have experience with montanes and made recommendations shared their thoughts, experiences, and opinions, and others repeated it, recycled it, and regurgitated it. That doesn't mean it isn't sound advice, but it means that the sample of of information is small and too small, at this juncture to be taken as an absolute and made into a one way approach to chameleon husbandry. Err on the side of caution, have a light touch, use experienced keepers advice as stepping stones, but use your own approaches to create your own success and be willing to try new, reasonable approaches.
In the 1990s we over supplemented most chameleons, especially with fixed vitamin A, it was lethal to the montane species, other species survived but didn't thrive. Hence the conservative approach. When I fed my baby chameleons wild caught insects once a day and commercial insects the other feeding per day and they got outside for several hours a day, I didn't supplement them at all- none. They grew faster than the best I can do these days. But when winter came and I had no wild insects and not as much natural sunlight I learned all about MBD and vitamin deficiency. We as a reptile community have come a long way.
I think you'll notice that there are many successful chameleon keepers on this forum whose husbandry varies pretty radically. We do what has been successful for us. Hopefully we won't quit trying new things.
I applaud your questions and willingness to experiment conservatively and hopefully not at the expense of your animals. We all learn as we go.
 
I have a montane, not a parsonii, so she won't grow nearly as much. But she has mbd from lack of adequate supplementation in the first year of her life when I first got her. I hardly supplement her with D3. I take her outside a couple times a week and make sure her uvb light is up to date. She is on liquid calcium though. I give her a powdered calcium supplement with D3 once a month. I only ever give herptivite with beta carotene instead of preformed vitamin A to her. She doesn't do well when supplemented with preformed Vitamin A. She get Gular Edema almost immediately and needs regular showers to get it down. I would only powder half her roach intake with the vitamin A and give it to her once a month also. I give her the liquid calcium 2-3 times a week. If it was a powdered calcium supplement and she was normal I would probably only do three meals or four meals out of the week. She's gotten much stronger on this regime. I am not sure whether she is abnormal, being this sensitive to Vitamin supplements, or whether it is because of her severe MBD... I don't know if this is normal for jacksons. But it works for her. Just thought I'd throw in my experiences ^^
 
I used to supplement with Vitamin A precursors as well and my baby melleri had eye problems, as a result. Once I began supplementing with preformed A, they were better.
"Experimentation" is a broad term and not one I use loosely. I would NOT suggest changing an approach that is working or making changes for the sake of change, but I do encourage keepers to take in all of the information they can find, consider the small sample of data that information represents, and make and informed decision about your own approach to your animals.
There are lots of variables, outside of the species you are keeping and how it relates to supplementing. Do they get natural sunlight? What UVB light are you using? Is your gut load healthy, but already much richer in nutrients than the chameleon's natural prey items would consume? Does said gut load have antagonistic levels of nutrients that may affect the absorption of others? How hydrated are the animals? There are just so many things to consider, but as long as you make those considerations, I think it's a sensible idea that all organisms receive minute doses of nutrients over time and not great big doses once in a while and we should replicate that.
When humans err, we often go to the opposite end of the spectrum and usually the best approach is a middle road between the 2 extremes. I don't consider myself an expert, nor do I think I'm "experimenting". I think I am drawing on a wide base of information, experience, and taking a practical, proven approach. I'm always looking to improve and learn more.
 
Why the need for Vit. A supplementation if you're properly gut loading? I keep Jacksons, i supplement them with plain calcium at every feeding, but i rarely give them multi-vitamins let alone vitamin A. I just make sure that what ever feeder i give them has been gutloaded at the very least with some form of dark green leafy vegetable, and/or some form of orange colored veg (carrot, bell pepper, etc) among other things before i give it to my Cham. I have seen no sign of deficiencies adhereing to these practices.

Bottomline is, i see no reason to risk overdosing your cham on Vit.A when you can deliver all the A it needs through the gut content of it's food.
 
There is evidence that chameleons can't convert Vitamin A precursors into Vitamin A. I had problems in my melleri, by avoiding preformed A.
 
There is two schools of thought on this from the research I have looked at. A few years back they done a study that said preformed Vitamin A was bad, and there is more recent studies that say your cham needs it in moderation, or they will get a vitamin A deficiency. In fact it went on to say that it is one of the leading causes of illness, and death in the hobby. so I guess it's what is working for you that counts.
 
That link was right up my alley! Thank you!
I'm curious as to what some of the forum veterinarians say about insectivorous herps being able to convert carotenoids into useable vitamin A.
 
Dr. Stahl stated that it is experience that beta carotene is not useful as a Vitamin A source and he recommends supplementing with preformed A. He liked the Dendrocare, pointing out the ratios and explaining while they were good, noting that the A was a little low, so it was very safe. He agreed that more often for growing juveniles and gestating females is best, with applications ranging from twice a week to twice a month, depending on age and activities of the animals. That was for this particular product.
I have several reputable brands at homes and showed him all of their labels and dosages, most of which he was familiar with. We discussed my ideas and agreed with my approach, cautioning not to use more than one D3 or Vitamin A product at a time. I knew a keeper that used to dose his chams with cod liver oil for A.
At any rate, he was impressed with my knowledge, animals, and my approach with them. I hope to see continued good health from my parsonii and Dr.Stahl believes there is every indication that I will.
 
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