Mouth open a little

Is this a respiratory infection? I came home today to this a couple days ago and I am extremely worried. I listened to podcasts and read multiple forum posts but nothing matches. Is it a vet visit? I have all info and I will gladly appreciate any advice even if not certain. thank you
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His/her eyes look sunken in. Where did you get him/her?? I would get that checked out by your local exotic vet, and even if it Isn't an upper respiratory infection, make sure your chameleon is hydrating enough!! I also know that sometimes if chameleons eat wood bark, it can cause their mouths to be a little open permanently. I saw this happen with a chameleon at Petco :(
 
The white around its nose is called snalt and is completely normal. Sometimes when they start to shed they'll also open their mouth to break the skin. When there's no popping or wheezing sound and more important the nose isn't pointing in the air (because they have difficulties to breath), the chances are small(er) it's a URI.
Are you sure your temps are max 78 (for a female) or 80 (male)? But then again he/she doesn't look extremely bright look overheating is the case.
The eyes are a bit sunken, how are the urates (color wise)? This could also be shedding related, because it's very uncomfortably for them.
If you're using a red light, you need to swap it for a white light. Colored lights are harmful for their eyes.
 
Omg there is a lot! I will try to cover it all at once…
What are your temps at?
His ambient is 75 during the day and falls to 72 at night. Basking area is 78.5.
I would say vet visit, it’s eyes look sunk in and is there stuck she’s on the nose? The white. Something doesn’t look right. Same question as above what’s your temps and humidity?
Ok so I was worried about that too but since this is my first chameleon I didn’t really know what that looked like on a chameleon besides an extreme case, especially because i was looking around for mouth open instead of sunken eyes. My humidity daytime is 60% and it goes to 90% at night. I think he might be starting another shed because i see skin breaking under his legs.
His/her eyes look sunken in. Where did you get him/her?? I would get that checked out by your local exotic vet, and even if it Isn't an upper respiratory infection, make sure your chameleon is hydrating enough!! I also know that sometimes if chameleons eat wood bark, it can cause their mouths to be a little open permanently. I saw this happen with a chameleon at Petco :(
I got him from FramsChams. I was planning on taking him anyway and I have an exotic vet that is only an hour away (The vet is on the vet list that has been floating around) He definitely is hydrated because his urates have never been anything other than white. I don’t use wood bark (or anything else chunky) and he stays away from soil as far as I know.
The pic has a red tint. Are you using a red bulb? Is there something going on with the tail?View attachment 357421
I don’t use any colored light and the tint probably comes from the white colored grow light (I will send pictures as soon as I can) I will look at the tail, but I never noticed anything like that before… I will look into that.
The white around its nose is called snalt and is completely normal. Sometimes when they start to shed they'll also open their mouth to break the skin. When there's no popping or wheezing sound and more important the nose isn't pointing in the air (because they have difficulties to breath), the chances are small(er) it's a URI.
Are you sure your temps are max 78 (for a female) or 80 (male)? But then again he/she doesn't look extremely bright look overheating is the case.
The eyes are a bit sunken, how are the urates (color wise)? This could also be shedding related, because it's very uncomfortably for them.
If you're using a red light, you need to swap it for a white light. Colored lights are harmful for their eyes.
He doesn’t put his nose in the air and I don’t hear anything from him breathing. I don’t hear anything from him at all. My temps were a bit over 80 but i changed it out and now it strays from 80. Like I said, his urates are wet and white colored and never orange. He had his last shed almost a month ago so he could be shedding. Under his legs, skin is turning white and is flaking off. I was informed before about colored lights and changed my grow light to a white color only. I will be getting the Arcadia jungle dawn soon and I will be able replacing the on I have now just for the difference.Sorry all for the worry, I should’ve taken him to the vet way before this.
 
Omg there is a lot! I will try to cover it all at once…

His ambient is 75 during the day and falls to 72 at night. Basking area is 78.5.

Ok so I was worried about that too but since this is my first chameleon I didn’t really know what that looked like on a chameleon besides an extreme case, especially because i was looking around for mouth open instead of sunken eyes. My humidity daytime is 60% and it goes to 90% at night. I think he might be starting another shed because i see skin breaking under his legs.

I got him from FramsChams. I was planning on taking him anyway and I have an exotic vet that is only an hour away (The vet is on the vet list that has been floating around) He definitely is hydrated because his urates have never been anything other than white. I don’t use wood bark (or anything else chunky) and he stays away from soil as far as I know.

I don’t use any colored light and the tint probably comes from the white colored grow light (I will send pictures as soon as I can) I will look at the tail, but I never noticed anything like that before… I will look into that.

He doesn’t put his nose in the air and I don’t hear anything from him breathing. I don’t hear anything from him at all. My temps were a bit over 80 but i changed it out and now it strays from 80. Like I said, his urates are wet and white colored and never orange. He had his last shed almost a month ago so he could be shedding. Under his legs, skin is turning white and is flaking off. I was informed before about colored lights and changed my grow light to a white color only. Sorry all for the worry, I should’ve taken him to the vet way before this.
With everything you're saying I still take my bet for shedding being the issue. However, your daytime humidity is on high side 30-40% is recommended during the daytime. Your nighttime humidity is perfect and the temps are on the edge. These could be the ingredient for a URI, still if he isn't going any other symptoms, I would personally keep on close eye on him of symptoms start to develop or get worst. Going to the vet is a stressful thing as well, especially if it's for just shedding. He's given all for it.
No sorry for worrying........at the moment you stop worrying, that's when your boy is in danger ;)
 
With everything you're saying I still take my bet for shedding being the issue. However, your daytime humidity is on high side 30-40% is recommended during the daytime. Your nighttime humidity is perfect and the temps are on the edge. These could be the ingredient for a URI, still if he isn't going any other symptoms, I would personally keep on close eye on him of symptoms start to develop or get worst. Going to the vet is a stressful thing as well, especially if it's for just shedding. He's given all for it.
No sorry for worrying........at the moment you stop worrying, that's when your boy is in danger ;)
Ok, thanks for the certainty. my humidity is really hard to lower and I really don’t know how to lower it. I don’t mist or fog during the day and if i allow air conditioning it gets way too cold. I still worry about the eyes because he didn’t do that last shed. He was irritated and very grumpy but his eyes weren’t sunken in.
 
Ok, thanks for the certainty. my humidity is really hard to lower and I really don’t know how to lower it. I don’t mist or fog during the day and if i allow air conditioning it gets way too cold. I still worry about the eyes because he didn’t do that last shed. He was irritated and very grumpy but his eyes weren’t sunken in.
Are his eyes constantly sunken? Or when you come close to him with your phone to take a picture?
 
With everything you're saying I still take my bet for shedding being the issue. However, your daytime humidity is on high side 30-40% is recommended during the daytime. Your nighttime humidity is perfect and the temps are on the edge. These could be the ingredient for a URI, still if he isn't going any other symptoms, I would personally keep on close eye on him of symptoms start to develop or get worst. Going to the vet is a stressful thing as well, especially if it's for just shedding. He's given all for it.
No sorry for worrying........at the moment you stop worrying, that's when your boy is in danger ;)
👆🏻😊
 
How are you determining your basking temp? Can you post a pic of the entire enclosure including the lighting on top?
Are his eyes constantly sunken? Or when you come close to him with your phone to take a picture?
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The grow light looks purple in photo, is that considered a color light even when it looks white whithout the photo? I use the thermometer for basking (Mostly for humidity) I occasionally use a temp gun about once a week for more accurate temperature. His eyes are only sunken when his mouth is opened and wasn’t like that when he was done with his first shed. But, he went to sleep with sunken eyes. Is that still “shedding symptoms” or is that out of that boundary?
 
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The grow light looks purple in photo, is that considered a color light even when it looks white whithout the photo? I use the thermometer for basking (Mostly for humidity) I occasionally use a temp gun about once a week for more accurate temperature. His eyes are only sunken when his mouth is opened and wasn’t like that when he was done with his first shed. But, he went to sleep with sunken eyes. Is that still “shedding symptoms” or is that out of that boundary?
So you are not going to get an accurate temp reading with those methods. You want a temp gauge that has a probe you can hook in at the branch directly below the heat fixture.

I would switch your grow light. You need pure white. Not colored. Jungle dawn or sansi are both good options for this.
Additionally UVB lighting should run across the middle of the cage. I am not sure what type of UVB fixture or bulb strength you are using but your distance to basking will be based on on this and what material you used for the top screen.
 
So you are not going to get an accurate temp reading with those methods. You want a temp gauge that has a probe you can hook in at the branch directly below the heat fixture.

I would switch your grow light. You need pure white. Not colored. Jungle dawn or sansi are both good options for this.
Additionally UVB lighting should run across the middle of the cage. I am not sure what type of UVB fixture or bulb strength you are using but your distance to basking will be based on on this and what material you used for the top screen.
Ok, I will look into that type of thermometer. My grow light has little benefit when on other than ambient light so taking it down would not be a problem. I am using the Reptisun T5 5.0 and I will be adjusting that to run in the middle. Thank you
 
Ok, I will look into that type of thermometer. My grow light has little benefit when on other than ambient light so taking it down would not be a problem. I am using the Reptisun T5 5.0 and I will be adjusting that to run in the middle. Thank you
So you want an 8-9 inch distance from the screen where the fixture is sitting to the branch directly below it. This will put the chameleon in the correct UVI level.
 
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