My baby chameleon won't open his eyes preventing him to eat!

jmskittle13

New Member
Hey everyone,

I need help my 4 month old chameleon is unabke to eat because he cannot open his eyes. I have the proper lighting and humidity and this has occured before but i had fixed the problem with extra care.

This time i am a lot more concerned and i have been fedding him reptile booster aid suppliments with a suringe. I have been doing this for 2 days but am still very nervouse so i contacted an exotic pets vet in bedford,NY. The appointment for tomorrow morning is going to cost way more than i can afford. Anybody have any suggestions for me?? I also went to petsmart but none of he employees have handled a chameleon before.

Thanks so much, i really hope someone cn help me out!
 
Please fill this out to the best of your ability:

Chameleon Info:

Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?

Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?

Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?

Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?

Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?

Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?

History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.


Cage Info:

Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?

Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?

Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?

Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?

Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?

Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?

Location - Where are you geographically located?


Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.
 
He also is not acting himself which worries me. Regaedless of the cost i went ahead nd made an apd with the exotic pets specialist as an emergency. I am worried they will request additional visits and treatments that will be way out my means. Kind of in a pickle..
 
DETAILED DESCRIPTION! Pleaseee Help!

My Chameleon: he is a male veiled chameleon born on March 8th of this year, so he is just over 4 months old. He has been in my care since he was 5 days old.

Handling: I handle my chameleon at least once a day sometimes a few times.

Feeding/Supplements: I feed him 5-6 small crickets coated in flukers calcium powder a day. He is young so he likes to hunt so I have not yet fed him worms. I am currently feeding him oxvow carnivore care with a syringe that was given to me by the head vet at avion exotics veterinary care in bedfore hills New York. (3 times a day .3cc)

Watering: I have a mister bottle that I use to mist his tank several times a day. I make sure the humidity level is above 50. I am going to buy an automatic mister with in the next week. Currently giving him water in small amounts with a syringe

Fecal Description: I believe he may have been tested for parasites prior to my purchase of him. His droppings are half brown and white.

Cage Type: I have a 10-gallon glass tank, the one I was given when I purchased him. My father and I are currently building him a much larger screen tank that should suit him more properly.

Lighting: 2.0 repti glo 26w that is not enough heat but my heating lamp just broke so I have that and an intense basking spot lamp 75w exo terra brand. (One lamp is uvb the other is uva)

Temperature: was ranging from 85-90 but vet suggested I raise it to high 90s both during the day and night to help give him energy.

Humidity: I am misting the tank more frequently with warmer water to try to help with his closed eye issue. The humidity level is currently at a steady 80%

Plants: no live plants, just fake flowers, vines, leaves and one stick that I shaved from outside that he tents to sit on quite frequently.

Placement: his tank is located in my room elevated about 2ft from the floor. Not much trafficking.

Location: I live in Westchester NY; my baby was purchased at petsmart on Staten Island, who got him from a local breeder. Getting chameleons for them is rare but they tend to get one chameleon from the same breeder every few months.


Current problem: he looks and is acting weak. His eyes are sunken in and is very mal nourished due to the fact that he cannot hunt for his crickets because he is unable to open his eyes. Like I said I have been feeding him with a syringe also giving him water the same way. I know to now give him too much because he has a very small stomach. I have also been gently rubbing his eyes with a Q-tip dipped in warm water to help soothe them in hopes to help him open them. Again, I brought him to Veterinary Center for Birds and Exotics in Bedford Hills, NY.
 
Sorry, but I am going to disagree here with your vet. Your temps are too hot, especially if you have him in a 10 gallon tank which is way too small to begin with. Not enough proper ventilation. You need to get him out of that tank asap as I believe your set up is causing the issues. Chameleons should NOT be kept in aquariums, they are not fish!!! Your overall cage temp should be in the low to mid 70's and a basking temp of about 80 degrees or so for a 4 month old. You are cooking that little guy in there! He should be eating 15-20 small crikckets a day. You are also starving the little guy here!!! Get a 5.0 UVB Reptisun light or a REptiglo, the tube kind. Use a 20-40 watt for basking but nothing higher than a 20 if you cannot get him out of that tank. Not a 75. Too hot! Get some calcium with d3 and a multivitamin and use that twice monthly in addition to your plain calcium. UVB lights do not really give off any heat, it is the basking light that produces the heat. On another note, not all Exotic vets know chameleons!!! Also, you want the humidity to rise and fall. You do not want a constant 80% and that is another problem you will have keeping him in that TINY tank! I know sometimes it is suggested to raise temps when they are ill, but in this case with you having him in that small of a habitat, he has no where to cool down, so I don't think that is a good idea, and therefore that is why I am not in agreeance with your vet
 
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Yes I am aware it is small and the money I have been saving up for a wire cage was just put toward his vet visit. I am currently in the process of building him a screen cage that is much bigger, but because he is unable to see, eat or drink on his own, the aquarium enables him to more easily feel the walls for water. I lowered the temperature to what it was before I saw the vet today which was exactly what you had said. He was eating at most 7-10 crickets per day coated in calcium with vitamin d3, but if and when I put in any more crickets he would not eat them and I am aware crickets can turn on a baby chameleon and gnaw at his flesh. Also his breeder recommended 5-7 a day. He has never had an issue before and I am going to be honest I went away for 4 days and I believe this issue has occurred due to a lack of humidity given to him from the sitter while I was gone.
It has only been at a constant 80% humidity today because he is very dehydrated. I understand your strong opinion against aquariums but most people who live in my area with chameleons use the aquariums and have no issues, one of these chameleons being 5 years old. I understand that most exotic vets do not know very much about chameleons but I felt the need to go in case he needed antibiotics due to an eye infection and as I said it is the only one in the state nor do I know of where else to go.

I understand I need to get him a bigger and better home fast, but he has been the most happiest healthiest little guy until now :( I am worried that if i move him into a new and bigger home while he is sick he may get worse due to new adaptation. Also I am worried he will not be able to drink water on his own because he will not be used to finding the water on a wire wall as to the glass :/

Thank you for your advice though I will be going to the pet supplies store first thing in the morning to get the light you suggested and other small items he needs. If you have any other suggestions I should get for him, preferably something to help his eyes because it is beyond wrong humidity levels, I would greatly appreciate it!!
 
Oh also the 75w basking light i had i knew was to hot but it was all the stupid store had so i have it elevated above his tank so it is not getting that hot in there, so don't fret I wont let him get hurt I am watching him very carefully, honestly have not left his side all day.
 
Ok a few things here. I am not saying your vet does not know anything, it is just that some don't. I am glad you are taking him to a vet and I would never advise against that. As far as the basking light, most of us just use ordinary white house bulb. That is all you need. I would change that out for a 20 and raise it to achieve an 80degree basking temp. You need a 5.0 not a 2.0. I would get your chameleon outside in the sun as much as you possibly can for some natural UVB. What size cricket have you been feeding? I would be feeding like 1/4 inch to 3/8. Maybe that is why he is not eating that many if they are too large. I hope your friend that has a 5 year old chameleon in a fish tank has a very very large one. Chameleons live in trees and like to be high up so I hope the tank has a great heighth to it. It is not fair to the animal. Like you said your chameleon was fine up until now. Poor husbandry can lead to issues that will not show up immediately and then boom...it takes its toll. There is reason your chameleon is closing its eyes and I believe it is your lighting. Try the 20 watt off to one side of the cage. He has to have somewhere to cool off. If you have been using the 2.0 insteada of the 5.0 that could also have been depriving him of the proper uvb he needs. What kind of Calcium with d3 are you using? You do not want to over do with the d3. You should not be using that everday. It is too much. Get a PLAIN calcium. I cannot tell you what to do, but only advise on the success I have had with the set up I use as do most of the members. Also there are differences between glass fish tanks and glass terrariums. MAy I ask who the breeder is that would recommend only 5 crickets a day for a 4 month old GROWING chameleon?. Also, nothing against your breeder but most responsible breeders would not sell a 5 day old chameleon.
 
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Is he breathing funny? All of your conditions sound like a perfect environment to get a respiratory infection. The heat, the humidity, and the glass.

Everyone here will agree you should get a screen cage.

Are you giving him any multi-vitamins? Vitamin A is essential for eye health. However, at his age, you only need to give it to him twice a month to be effective. You can also buy vitamin A capsules (make sure to get Vitamin A PALMITATE, from palm oil, or from cod liver oil), and put ONE DROP on ONE feeder ONCE a month. This is important, as more than this will cause problems.

I would also use just plain calcium instead of calcium with the D3. Use the D3 only once or twice a week, and the normal calcium every other feeding, and it is important to dust very lightly. You want to think 'sprinkled' instead of 'caked' with supplement. If he has a UVB bulb, he doesn't even need D3 at all - only once a month is enough if there is a working UVB bulb.

Also, I and many others have had problems with the coiled bulbs affecting chameleon eyes. The brightness can be too focused and intense for chameleons eyes, and some bulbs, if the bulbs are fairly old, may have too much radiation coming out of them, causing them to become sensitive to light, and then keeping their eyes closed. If it is a coiled bulb, ditch it and get a linear UVB bulb, 5.0 is best for chameleons.

Whenever my chameleons have an eye closed, I use a dripper (like the one you're using to feed your guy), get some CLEAN filtered water, and put a few drops right into the eye, or on it until it absorbs into the eye opening. This really helps them flush any debris out - calcium dust, pieces of shed skin, anything.

Goodluck!
 
His breathing seems ok, every once in a while he tends to raise his head and almost makes a clicking sound with his mouth, he also did that when he was very healthy too so idk what that means..

I have never spoken with the breeder directly only the middle man at petsmart who was the most knowledgeable person i talked to when initially buying him. he had told me it was really rare for them to sell a chameleon that young and they should not be. It is a terrarium now a fish tank, it has a cage top. I will replace all of my current bulbs, yes the uvb bulb was a coiled one and is brand new. What watt night lamp should I get?

The food supplement I have been giving him includes vitamin A and many more essential vitamins he needs. I just purchased the calcium with the D3 vitamin recently and he has had very little of it, i normally use Flukers calcium. The crickets are the smallest i can buy around me and they are a little bigger than 1/4 in but they range from small to medium, so yes he has been eating bigger ones than you described but he has never seemed to have any trouble with them!

He has had the eye problem in the past and I did just as you described Brock and it worked! This time i have been doing to same thing and i used both the syringe im feeding him with along with a moist q-tip to try to help remove any particles that may be stuck in there.

I do take him out quite often when it is nice enough, I will try to do it as much as possible.

Also I am currently making a custom screen cage the base is about a 1,1/2ft by 1ft and about 1,1/2ft high. this is just temporary but it should be better than what he is in. I actually work at the staten island zoo during the school year so i am gonna give them a call to see if they have any cages i can have.

Thank you guys so much for all of your help! I really appreciate it and I will keep you all updated!!
 
Clicking sound is the tell-tale sign of a upper respiratory infection. It is basically the air in his lungs breaking making 'bubbles' out of the moisture buildup.

You need a screen cage immediately. Glass enclosures are the main cause of respiratory infections, especially when humidity is too high, bacteria can breed within days and make matters worse.

You do not need a night lamp. Chameleons require a drop in temperature at night, and can withstand quite cold temperatures while sleeping. Into the low 60s high 50s. In the summer it should get around high 60s at night.

If you are using the vitamin A at every feeding, this can cause problems as well. Particularly kidney problems, and possibly calcium defficiency. Calcium, Vitamin D, and Vitamin A all compete for absorption in the gut, and Calcium is at the bottom of the list. So if there is too much vitamin A present in the body, it will deplete calcium absorption.

Only be using the multivitamin with vitamin A twice a month.

Most importantly, get a screen cage!!!

To cure a respiratory infection:
  • use a screen cage
  • allow it to completely dry out for 2 hours or so between mistings
  • increase basking spot temperature to 95, but make sure he can get away to a cooler area (low 80s, high 70s) so he doesn't overheat.

also, never spray him directly! Spray the leaves and mesh caging til droplets form. Spraying him directly can cause him to inhale liquid through his nose, into his lungs, and make things worse.
 
since you cham is dying..i would go to home depot or where ever you can get a larg ficus tree ( at least a three foot tall one)..se it up next to your bed or someplace close where you can keep close watch..that tiny glass fish tank is part of the problem..i would only keep a 5 day old cham in it for about 3 weeks..then off to the large 100 gal sized screen enclosure..and temps are normally around 75 ambient with a basking spot of 88..and cool down to 65 at night...i think its rediculous that a vet would recommend cooking your cham ..he should have given you some kingsford cooking tips at those temps for a chameleon...(matter of fact only one cham in the world can live like that, the namaqua)

wish you the best of luck!
 
Update!

Just an update!

I finished his new home today which is a 20in long, a food wide, and 15 in high.

I bought the new lights for him today including the 5.0 reptiglo uvb tube, and a regular 40w and 60w bulb because the 40 was only making it get up to 68.

He was in the beautiful sun outside with me all day and he seemed much more energetic than he has been. I also continued to use purified water to clean his eyes with a syringe, and feeding him the way I have been.

Now we can just hope with tender loving care he will be back to normal in no time!

Thanks for all of your help everyone I really appreciate it, and Im all ears for more advice!
 
The only food I am giving him includes crude protein,fat, and fiber, moisture, calcium, phosphorus, vitamins, d3, c, e, copper, taurine, l-carnitine, omega 3, and 6! It is a powder supplement that I mix with water to make an oatmeal consistency that I feed his with a syringe 3 times a day. I also give him water separately with a smaller syringe.

Brock I am doing all you said to help with the respiratory infection. Also I never spray him directly, if the water even touches him a little bit he usually tries to get away as fast as he can lol

He is not dying I never said and refuse to think that, that but yes he is weak but I am doing all I can to make him better; I have taken everyones advice thus far. I will get a bigger screen cage when possible but as of right now I am just happy I have one at all!

I will no longer use the red night lamp, but for the basking bulb should i use the holder with or without the mirror inside of it?

Thanks again!
 
Is it the exo-terra light fixture with the mirrors on it?

If so,they can only handle 40 watts.

I use Flukers light domes, which have ceramic ballasts which can hold high temperatures if you ever need to use 100 watts +. I use 40 watts right on top of the cage for 1-2 month olds. 50 watts for 2-3 month olds, and 60 watts for 4-6 months old.

Once they are adult size, I use the 75watt blue Zilla heat lights.

I lay the light fixtures right on top of the cage, but make sure there is several inches between the chameleon and the light.

Goodluck, let me know how he makes out in a month or so!
 
Yes I have actually both of those exact ones, currently using the ceramic for the 60w!

Yes I will let you know how everything goes, thanks again!
 
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