My chameleon won’t eat

[Mountain Dragon]

Ok you are not understanding... It is not rotating their food It is providing a variety of multiple types of feeders at the same time. NOT 1. This does not give them what they need when you are doing feeders like BSFL, superworms, and waxworms. The only time you can do this is with a feeder like crickets or dubia because you gutload them. Maybe someone else can step in and help you.

Here is an accurate husbandry program that will teach you quite a bit. https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/

Okay your not understanding and that may be my fault for not typing clear enough what I am doing.
Let me be clear
Is getting crickets and bsfl and super worms(waxworms for treats not regularly bc they are fat filled) and silkworms but as I mentioned I will keep TWO types of insects PLUS crickets in every week as I mentioned im switching the two insects every week but the crickets will be a staple hopefully that is clear enough if not...

 

[ERKleRose]

Are you sure your supplement is Repashy Calcium Plus NoD, because they don't make that. Also, your humidity is too high for a veiled for during the day. Daytime humidity levels should be between 30-50%, preferably on the lower end of that range. Since your nighttime temps are 65*F, you can go up to 100% humidity at night

 

[Mountain Dragon]

There is a good chance that the baby will not eat any other feeder. It takes time to move them over to new feeders which we do not do unless we mix them in with the feeders they are used to. It is pretty simple without the food he is used to this baby may not eat at all. This leads to decline and death. While your dad may not like crickets this is an extremely important feeder for young chameleons. I hate to say this but if your dad will not allow crickets or dubia roaches then you should consider taking this baby back to the store. They can not only have bsfl, superworms, and waxworms. These are not adequate alone for nutrition. These feeders are only one aspect of providing a diverse diet. The Dubia and the Crickets are what we gutload to provide the rest. Also your looking at having to get TINY ones or this baby will not be able to eat them.

Did you get a T8 fixture or a T5HO. There is a big difference and if it is not the correct distance to basking the chameleon will not get the UVB it needs and develop MBD.

If you fill out the form above with detail we can provide more help.

And plus crickets I don’t wanna feed my chameleon crickets for some reasons like these

they are smelly
They are jumpy and I don’t want them in my houser
They are noisy
They also die very easily
It’s like taking care of two pets
They aren’t very nutritional and they aren’t high in protein they also have a 3to1phosphorus to calcium ratio and we want the opposite for chameleons
There is just bugs that are way better superwroms and bsfl.

Are you sure your supplement is Repashy Calcium Plus NoD, because they don't make that. Also, your humidity is too high for a veiled for during the day. Daytime humidity levels should be between 30-50%, preferably on the lower end of that range. Since your nighttime temps are 65*F, you can go up to 100% humidity at night

okay I’ll go look at the brand again and when I typed the humidity and realized that it was to high so I got the humidity under control thanks for you advice... btw I checked it’s eco terra

 

[ERKleRose]

Since you have a T5 HO Zoo Med ReptiSun 5.0 UVB bulb, it should be 8-9" away from the basking branch. If your little guy screen-climbs, raise the bulb 4" above the cage and have the basking branch 5" away from the top of the cage (the heat bulb should be raised at least to the same height, too).

 

[Mountain Dragon]

Since you have a T5 HO Zoo Med ReptiSun 5.0 UVB bulb, it should be 8-9" away from the basking branch. If your little guy screen-climbs, raise the bulb 4" above the cage and have the basking branch 5" away from the top of the cage (the heat bulb should be raised at least to the same height, too).

Okay that’s what I needed to know thanks

 

[ERKleRose]

And plus crickets I don’t wanna feed my chameleon crickets for some reasons like these

they are smelly
They are jumpy and I don’t want them in my houser
They are noisy
They also die very easily
It’s like taking care of two pets
They aren’t very nutritional and they aren’t high in protein they also have a 3to1phosphorus to calcium ratio and we want the opposite for chameleons
There is just bugs that are way better superwroms and bsfl.

Did you mean silkworms instead of superworms? You need either grasshoppers, roaches, or crickets, etc as a main staple, with silkworms and BSFL and such as additives, that way you have something to gutload, which is extremely important.

okay I’ll go look at the brand again and when I typed the humidity and realized that it was to high so I got the humidity under control thanks for you advice... btw I checked it’s eco terra

Could you take a pic of your supplement, please?

 

[Mountain Dragon]

Did you mean silkworms instead of superworms? You need either grasshoppers, roaches, or crickets, etc as a main staple, with silkworms and BSFL and such as additives, that way you have something to gutload, which is extremely important.

Could you take a pic of your supplement, please?

Oof auto correct yes silkworms and do you know where I can purchase grasshoppers I just left the house but later I will send pics

 

[Mountain Dragon]

Oof auto correct yes silkworms and do you know where I can purchase grasshoppers I just left the house but later I will send pics

Could you send me a list of supplements that our good bc I only have one and it has no d3 and supplements are a lil confusing for me.

 

[ERKleRose]

Could you send me a list of supplements that our good bc I only have one and it has no d3 and supplements are a lil confusing for me.

It depends on what type of supplements you get. The most popular type is using a phosphorus-free calcium without D3 (like Zoo Med ReptiCalcium Without D3) on every feeding, except for one day a week. On that one day per week, you'll alternate weekly between a phosphorus-free calcium with D3 (like Zoo Med ReptiCalcium With D3) and a multivitamin without D3 but preferably with preformed Vitamin A (like Zoo Med Reptivite Without D3), so that each one is used once every two weeks.

 

[ERKleRose]

Oof auto correct yes silkworms and do you know where I can purchase grasshoppers I just left the house but later I will send pics

I get mine from @SauceGandhi but I'm not sure if he has any available right now

 

[Mountain Dragon]

It depends on what type of supplements you get. The most popular type is using a phosphorus-free calcium without D3 (like Zoo Med ReptiCalcium Without D3) on every feeding, except for one day a week. On that one day per week, you'll alternate weekly between a phosphorus-free calcium with D3 (like Zoo Med ReptiCalcium With D3) and a multivitamin without D3 but preferably with preformed Vitamin A (like Zoo Med Reptivite Without D3), so that each one is used once every two weeks.

Okay thank you

 

[Mountain Dragon]

I was sooooooo dumb lol here’s my cage now any improvements I need made

 

[Mountain Dragon]

Btw sorry bout the paper towels on the bottom I change them every day and it’s what works best until this weekend I can drill holes and buy a pan but then in January I’m building a cage we have the measurements it’s going to be 6ft tall 6ft wide 2 feet deep

 

[Mountain Dragon]

And I will cover my news plants with rocks tomorrow

 

[Mountain Dragon]

My plants inside are

dracaena
Golden pothos
Fiddle leaf fig
Money tree

 

[noahrofsky7]

Ok you are not understanding... It is not rotating their food It is providing a variety of multiple types of feeders at the same time. NOT 1. This does not give them what they need when you are doing feeders like BSFL, superworms, and waxworms. The only time you can do this is with a feeder like crickets or dubia because you gutload them. Maybe someone else can step in and help you.

Here is an accurate husbandry program that will teach you quite a bit. https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/

Depends on the temperature at the branch. It should not be any hotter then 80-82 at the branch. You need a wired temp gauge with a probe. The probe would be hooked to the branch below the heat fixure with a zip tie. https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Digi...ords=zoo+med+temp+gauge&qid=1624816859&sr=8-6

But the UVB is very very important. Take a picture of the box the linear fixture came in so we can see if it is a T8 or T5HO.

It is a t5ho the basking spot doesn’t get hotter than 85.

 

[Lindasjackson]

It’s looking good

 

[MissSkittles]

I was sooooooo dumb lol here’s my cage now any improvements I need made

No sweetie…not dumb…just starting out. The only things we are all born knowing how to do well is eat and poo.