First i will start with=1-male veiled cham; He is 9-weeks and i've had him 2-weeks. Doing excellant. You may not believe this but this little guy has potty trained himself. I put a bamboo small stick from the bottom of cage up to his feeding cups and he walks down that to bottom of cage and has his poop every morning like clock work and back up again.I have not read anything like this on the forum. But good i guess as it is very easy clean-up.He doe's not poop anywhere else in his cage.Now second part; I am getting a blue bar panther male on tues; Can you use live-pussy willows and live bamboo?? Or would these 2-plants hold mold?? Something tells me yes they would[common sence] lol. Any help would be much appreciated. And for my blue-bar panther-I have a 24-24-48-cage and now that it is set up it looks huge lol, like the baby will get lost.I plan on a lot of foilage and lots of vines and walkways and lots for him to hide in. But next question; Is it too big for him. I will be using a feeding station for him as well.I am thinking that i should have bought a 16-16-30-until he got bigger==but would that have been harder on him to adjust ie; 2-cages and 2-changes.?? I am hoping that the larger cage will be ok-I will be monitoring him very closely. Any help much appreciated as i am new to chams; and new to the forum And thanks soo much in advance. Buttons.
New And A Lot Of Questions???
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Jupiter
Member
I have no experience myself, but I'm getting a cham in about a week and a half. I have the same size enclosure you have, which the breeder said is indeed too big for a baby. He suggested I build a platform to raise the bottom and turn it into a 2x2x2 until he gets a little bigger. Again, don't actually know what I'm talking about here, just passing on what I was told.
Hi: And thanks for your reply-but i think i am going to go with the larger cage and monitor him closely, and if he's not eating well i will get him a smaller cage but hoping for the best. I feel that 2-cages will be a lot of stress when moving him to larger cage.My v. cham; is in a small one and now i wish i had put him in a bigger right away. As it will be stressful when i have to move him to larger and the way he's growing that won't be too long. Thanks again-buttons.
javsto
New Member
24x24x48" is VERY TALL cage for such a small cham and if your adamant about using it then I would suggest that you put some sort of bedding on the bottom of the cage to prevent any injuries from falling, which will happen no matter how close you watch him. use some paper towels, bunched up all around the bottom, not laid flat. changing cages at a later date wont be too stressful for him that you would need to worry too much over it. go with the smaller cage for now and switch to the big one after a year or so.
absolutbill
Chameleon Enthusiast
I second that notion. That 48" cage is going to be huge, and tough to find such a little guy most of the time. The fact that he can cup feed is better than having him just free-range, but I would either raise up the bottom of the cage and add space as he grows, or just buy a smaller, more appropriately sized cage. Moving to a new cage won't stress him out as much as you think, or for as long as you think. Finally, I like the smaller cages, especially when they are young, because I can monitor my chams A LOT better that way. They can become used to hand-feeding, and my presence, so when I do upgrade their cage it's an easier experience. JMHO. 
Olimpia
Biologist & Ecologist
Let me see if I didn't miss any of your questions -
- You definitely can use branches cut from a tree. Live branches hold up much better to the heat and humidity of the cages because they haven't started deteriorating in the sun and getting tunneled by bugs, so they usually hold up fairly well. I have branches in my cages that I cut a year ago and there is no mold on them at all (you should let the cage dry between mistings anyway, you don't want the cage to be drenched all day long, every day). I don't strip the bark though, which I think adds to the protection (after all, that's what bark is for).
- If you are cup feeding it would be easier to keep a baby in a cage that large. However, if you want to shorten the cage a little you can just raise up the plastic bottom that comes in the cage already, by placing a plant pot under it or stacking some blocks, for example. This would raise the bottom as much as you want. However, in my experience and opinion, babies do not have a problem living and thriving in a large cage from the start. Provided you are providing food often or have it concentrated in a "feeding station" they usually do really well and enjoy the extra space.
- And yes, chameleons tend to be creatures of habit! It's not unusual for a chameleon to poop in the same place every day.
- You definitely can use branches cut from a tree. Live branches hold up much better to the heat and humidity of the cages because they haven't started deteriorating in the sun and getting tunneled by bugs, so they usually hold up fairly well. I have branches in my cages that I cut a year ago and there is no mold on them at all (you should let the cage dry between mistings anyway, you don't want the cage to be drenched all day long, every day). I don't strip the bark though, which I think adds to the protection (after all, that's what bark is for).
- If you are cup feeding it would be easier to keep a baby in a cage that large. However, if you want to shorten the cage a little you can just raise up the plastic bottom that comes in the cage already, by placing a plant pot under it or stacking some blocks, for example. This would raise the bottom as much as you want. However, in my experience and opinion, babies do not have a problem living and thriving in a large cage from the start. Provided you are providing food often or have it concentrated in a "feeding station" they usually do really well and enjoy the extra space.
- And yes, chameleons tend to be creatures of habit! It's not unusual for a chameleon to poop in the same place every day.
chameleonowner32
Avid Member
here is a list of the safe plants.. from flchams.com
A
A
- ABELIA (Abelia grandiflora)
- AFRICAN DAISY (Arctotis)
- ALYSSUM, SWEET (Lobularia maritima or Alyssum maritimum)
- AMERICAN ELM also ELM (Ulmus americana)
- ANTHEMIS also known as CHAMOMILE (Anthemis)
- ARBUTUS (Epigaea repens)
- ASPARAGUS FERN (Asparagus plumosus or A. setaceus)
- ASPEN (Populus tremuloides) - Tree
- ASTER (Aster - all species)
- BABY'S BREATH also known as GYPSOPHILA (Gypsophila elegans)
- BABY'S TEARS (Helxine soleirolii)
- BACHELOR BUTTONS also CORNFLOWER (Centaurea cyanus)
- BEGONIA (Begonia Corallina de Lucerna)
- BENJAMINA also FICUS also WEEPING FIG (Ficus benjamina)
- BIRCH (Betula) - Tree
- BIRD'S NEST FERN (Asplenium nidus)
- BOSTON FERN (Nephrolepis exaltata bostoniensis)
- BOUGAINVILLEA (Bougainvillea glabra) - Vine
- BRIDAL VEIL also known as TAHITIAN BRIDAL VEIL (Tripogandra multiflora)
- CALENDULA also POT MARIGOLD (Calendula officinalis)
- CAMELLIA (Camellia japonica)
- CAST-IRON PLANT (Aspidistra elatior)
- CHAMOMILE also ANTHEMIS (Anthemis)
- CHICKWEED (Stellaria media)
- CHINESE HIBISCUS also HIBISCUS also ROSE OF CHINA (Hibiscus rosasinensis)
- CISSUS also KANGAROO VINE also GRAPE IVY (Cissus antarctica) - Vine
- COLEUS (Coleus blumei)
- CORNFLOWER also BACHELOR BUTTONS (Centaurea cyanus)
- CORN PLANT (Dracaena fragrans)
- COTTONWOOD (Populus deltoides) - Tree
- CRABAPPLE (Malus) - Tree
- CUT-LEAF PHILODENDRON also SPLIT-LEAF PHILODENDRON (Monstera deliciosa)
- DAISY, AFRICAN (Arctotis)
- DAISY, LIVINGSTON also ICE PLANT (Dorotheanthus bellidiformis or Mesembryanthemum criniflorum)
- DANDELION (Taraxacum officinale)
- DILL (Anethum graveolens)
- DRACAENA (Dracaena - all species)
- EASTER CACTUS (Rhipsalidopsis rosea) - Cactus/Succulent
- ECHEVERIA also PAINTED LADY (Echeveria derenbergii) - Cactus/Succulent
- ELK'S HORN FERN also STAGHORN FERN (Platycerium bifurcatum)
- ELM also AMERICAN ELM (Ulmus americana)
- EMERALD RIPPLE also PEPEROMIA (Peperomia caperata)
- FICUS also BENJAMINA also WEEPING FIG (Ficus benjamina)
- FIRE THORN (Pyracantha)
- FUCHSIA (Fuchsia)
- GARDENIA (Gardenia jasminoides)
- GERANIUM (Pelargonium sp.)
- GLOXINIA (Sinningia speciosa hybrids)
- GYPSOPHILA also BABY'S BREATH (Gypsophila elegans)
- GOLD-DUST DRACAENA (Dracaena godseffiana)
- GOLDEN POTHOS (Scindapsus aureus) - not to be digested in large quantities
- GRAPE IVY also CISSUS also KANGAROO VINE (Cissus antarctica) - Vine
- HEAVENLY BAMBOO (Nandina domestica)
- HENS AND CHICKENS (Sempervivum tectorum) - Cactus/Succulent
- HIBISCUS also CHINESE HIBISCUS also ROSE OF CHINA (Hibiscus rosasinensis)
- HONEYSUCKLE (Lonicera) - Vine
- HOYA also WAX PLANT (Hoya carnosa) - Vine
- ICE PLANT also LIVINGSTON DAISY (Dorotheanthus bellidiformis or Mesembryanthemum criniflorum)
- IMPATIENS also PATIENCE PLANT (Impatiens sultanii or Impatiens wallerana)
- INDIAN HAWTHORN (Raphiolepis indica)
- JADE PLANT (Crassula argentea)
- JAPANESE ARALIA (Fatsia japonica)
- JASMINE (Jasmine officinale grandiflorum)
- KALANCHOE (Kalanchoe) - Cactus/Succulent
- KANGAROO VINE also CISSUS also GRAPE IVY (Cissus antarctica) - Vine
- KENTUCKY COFFEE TREE (Gymnocladus) - Tree - Coffee is Toxic
- LAVENDER also ENGLISH LAVENDER (Lavandula officinalis or Lavandula spica)
- LILAC (Syringa)
- LIVINGSTON DAISY also ICE PLANT (Dorotheanthus bellidiformis or Mesembryanthemum criniflorum)
- MAIDENHAIR FERN (Adiantum pedatum)
- MANZANITA (Arctostaphylos)
- MOCK ORANGE (Philadelphus)
- MOSES-IN-THE-CRADLE (Rhoeo spathacea or Rhoeo discolor)
- MULBERRY (Morus alba) - Tree
- NASTURTIUM (Tropaeolum majus)
- NORFOLK ISLAND PINE (Araucaria heterophylla)
- PAINTED LADY also ECHEVERIA (Echeveria derenbergii) - Cactus/Succulent
- PAMPAS GRASS (Cortaderia selloana)
- PARLOR PALM (Chamaedorea elegans bella)
- PARSLEY (Petroselinum crispum)
- PASSIONFLOWER (Passiflora caerulea) - Vine
- PATIENCE PLANT also IMPATIENS (Impatiens sultanii or Impatiens wallerana)
- PEPEROMIA also EMERALD RIPPLE (Peperomia caperata)
- PETUNIA (Petunia hybrida)
- PIGGYBACK PLANT (Tolmiea menziesii)
- PILEA (Pilea sp.)
- POPLAR (Populus) - Tree
- POT MARIGOLD also CALENDULA (Calendula officinalis)
- PRAYER PLANT (Maranta leuconeura kerchoveana)
- PURPLE PASSION also PURPLE VELVET also VELVET PLANT (Gynura aurantiaca)
- ROSE OF CHINA also CHINESE HIBISCUS also HIBISCUS (Hibiscus rosasinensis)
- RUBBER PLANT (Ficus elastica decora)
- RUSSIAN OLIVE (Elaeagnus angustifolia) - Tree
- SENSITIVE PLANT (Mimosa pudica)
- SPIDER PLANT (Chlorophytum comosum vittatum)
- SPLIT-LEAF PHILODENDRON also CUT-LEAF PHILODENDRON (Monstera deliciosa)
- SPRUCE (Picea sp.) - Tree
- SQUIRREL'S-FOOT FERN (Davallia trichomanoides or Davallia bullata)
- STAGHORN FERN also ELK'S HORN FERN (Platycerium bifurcatum)
- STAR JASMINE (Trachelospermum jasminoides)
- SWEDISH IVY (Plectranthus nummularius - often sold as Plectranthus australis)
- SWEET ALYSSUM (Lobularia maritima or Alyssum maritimum)
- SWORD FERN also WESTERN SWORD FERN (Polystichum munitum)
- TAHITIAN BRIDAL VEIL also BRIDAL VEIL (Tripogandra multiflora)
- TI PLANT (Cordyline terminalis)
- TREE MALLOW (Lavatera trimestris)
- UMBRELLA PLANT (Schefflera arboricola)
- VELVET PLANT also PURPLE PASSION, PURPLE VELVET (Gynura aurantiaca)
- WANDERING JEW (Zebrina pendula)
- WAX BEGONIA (B. semperflorens)
- WAX PLANT also HOYA (Hoya carnosa) - Vine
- WEEPING FIG also BENJAMINA also FICUS (Ficus benjamina)
- WILLOW (Salix sp.) - Tree
- YUCCA (Yucca filamentosa)
- ZEBRA PLANT (Aphelandra squarrosa)
- ZINNIA (Zinnia elegans hybrids)
Thank You All, so much for responding;I think i will purchase the 16-16-30-just to be on the safe side for the new baby. I believe he is about 10-11-weeks by now.I set up the big cage and it looks huge actually too big i think=24-24-48-but it won't go to waste at all.When the babies are ready for 'big boy' cages they will be here and ready.And the 16-16-30-will be a great outdoor cage for them on the balcony to get some good uvb-sun come summer time, so not a total waste.I am really excited to get my panther set up and home-i have been waiting on a repti-stat[to control temps] coming then i can bring him home-so hopefully today it has arrived then tomorrow he will come home. I am very confused as to his temps. I am finding different temps all over the forum. Can someone clarify what temps please and keep in mind i am new to chams; Temps for a panther as there's not too much on the forum or maybe i've missed it being an old broad[no offensive anyone] and these 2-babies are my first ond only chams.My veiled boy has really grown and doing excellant and getting some nice colours coming out. I will post pics of both a little later[need a battery for camera. Just have to go get it. But as you all know cham takes the priority right now.His temps basking i believe is 83-84-[panther] please someone give me correct if not right.Male panther.Thanks to all that might respond-Buttons.
KingJulian
New Member
First I want to say congrats on your new addition! We got our first panther in January and he's awesome! We decided to get one that was a little bit older since I heard the babies are sometimes hard to raise if you are new, however I found this article that might help. "Panther Chameleons, like other reptiles regulate their own body temperature and it is thus important to provide them with a temperature gradient inside their enclosure. The best ambient temperature during the day for Panther Chameleons is room temperature, between 72 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. By placing the basking bulb approximately 8 inches away from a basking perch inside the enclosure, a basking spot of approximately 85-90 degrees Fahrenheit is achieved. This arrangement provides the warmest temperatures directly under the heat bulb and cooler temps lower down in the enclosures. Additionally, chameleons do well with a night temperature drop so no additional heat source is needed at night as long as your temps stay above the high 40s to low 50s and the chameleons are able to bask in the morning. If your night temperatures do necessitate a heat source, it is important not to use one that emits light. Instead, a ceramic heat emitter should be utilized from a safe distance." I have heard from multiple people not to place the heat lamp directly on the top of the screen since the babies climb upside down and will burn themselves. I think babies require different temps and this article didn't specify, so just double check to make sure it's not too warm for him. Hope this helps, and the best advice I can give is to ask as many questions as possible, because you will receive lots of different answers
KingJulian; Thank you for your response and i have him home and keeping him about 89-90-as the breeder was keeping him as such-and he's eating [from a feeding station] that i made for him and his poops look good and he's still a little frightened as yet but coming along slowly. He don't run now when i check his temps and he knows feeding time and goes to his dish, but he's very frightened of misting so i try to go easy on him as i know he's scared. I just mist in little mists and go around him and he seems to be getting used to it-but i guess it all takes time and patience.I have not seen him drink but can tell from his color of poops he is hydrated.Hoping to catch him drinking so my mind will be at peace. Thanks again to all who responded.-And he has his basking, and sleeping spot all picked out. Both my babies, had phoenix worms for lunch and both are quite full lol-will post pics soon. Buttons
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