New Chameleon is Very Thin

[whalesharkcoolness]

Hello! I’m not sure if I’m doing this correctly, I’ve never used a website like this before. I only adopted my first veiled chameleon three days ago, and he was quite thin when I got him as you might be able to tell from the pictures. He is a male and he isn’t fully grown, I estimate based on his size he’s probably close to five months old, and I put about ten live crickets in his enclosure for him to eat the day after I got him, and despite hearing that it might take a while for him to eat them he’s actually already almost gone through most of them, I can only see three and I’ve watched him eat multiple. I’m just wondering if there’s something I should be doing to get him less thin? Is there a certain type of food I should feed him aside from the live crickets to make sure he’s well fed? I’ve attached some photos of him to show how thin he is, I’m a little worried about his health at the moment. Thank you!

 

[MissSkittles]

Hi and welcome. With chameleons, all of their husbandry works together to keep them healthy. I know you just got him, but obviously wherever he was before, he wasn’t getting all that he needed. It’s also a possibility that he has parasites. The very best thing to do, is to review all of your husbandry so that we can determine what changes need to be made. So I’m going to ask you to copy & paste the following with your answers. Pics of your entire enclosure are also a huge help. I’m headed to sleep right now, but if no one else is around or is able to go over it all, I’ll be back in a few short hours. My dog and cat only allow me to sleep for so many hours at a time.
Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
• Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
• Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
• Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
• Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
• History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
• Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
• Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
• Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
• Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
• Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
• Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:

1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
2. Photos can be very helpful.

 

[SteveH]

Variety is key, here are some of the more commonly used feeders. A couple of super worms every other day should help him gain weight. If you don't already have supplements I recommend using Reptical Calcium without D3 for every feeding and RepashyLoD twice a month. Lightly dust the feeders. At his size fed daily. Here's a care guide that you should find helpful ...
https://chameleonacademy.com/veiled-chameleon-care/

 

[whalesharkcoolness]

Variety is key, here are some of the more commonly used feeders. A couple of super worms every other day should help him gain weight. If you don't already have supplements I recommend using Reptical Calcium without D3 for every feeding and RepashyLoD twice a month. Lightly dust the feeders. At his size fed daily. Here's a care guide that you should find helpful ...
https://chameleonacademy.com/veiled-chameleon-care/

Thank you so much! Yes, I have the same calcium powder you have pictured, I just haven’t used it yet. This Saturday when I go to restock on crickets, I’ll grab some super worms as well and see if he takes them.

 

[JacksJill]

I agree he is thin not because you can see is ribs but because you can see his pelvis and the sides of his casque are sunken. As you put weight on him pay attention to these areas and not the ribs. If you feed him until his ribs disappear entirely you will make him fat or even obese. Best of luck with your new pet. You are getting good advise.

 

[SteveH]

Thank you so much! Yes, I have the same calcium powder you have pictured, I just haven’t used it yet. This Saturday when I go to restock on crickets, I’ll grab some super worms as well and see if he takes them.

Most of us feed as much as they'll eat daily up until 10-12 months of age then cut back to 3-5 insects every other day. Gutloading insects with a variety of fresh veggies as well. Spinach, kale, collard greens, carrots are a few good choices.

 

[whalesharkcoolness]

Hi and welcome. With chameleons, all of their husbandry works together to keep them healthy. I know you just got him, but obviously wherever he was before, he wasn’t getting all that he needed. It’s also a possibility that he has parasites. The very best thing to do, is to review all of your husbandry so that we can determine what changes need to be made. So I’m going to ask you to copy & paste the following with your answers. Pics of your entire enclosure are also a huge help. I’m headed to sleep right now, but if no one else is around or is able to go over it all, I’ll be back in a few short hours. My dog and cat only allow me to sleep for so many hours at a time.
Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
• Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
• Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
• Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
• Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
• History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
• Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
• Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
• Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
• Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
• Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
• Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:

1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
2. Photos can be very helpful.

Thank you for replying! Here’s the info you asked for

Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - Male, approx. 5 months old
• Handling - I’ve only handled him once to put him in his enclosure, but since he’s really new, I want to give him space before working on actually handling him
• Feeding - ~10 crickets about every two days, let them roam the enclosure and he hunts them
• Supplements - Have not used any dusting yet, plan on introducing Reptical Calcium
• Watering - A fogger and a misting spray bottle, leaves collect water from both sources. I see him drink from the leaves and from the wet branches often
• Fecal Description - Completely white and chalky
• History - He was only adopted this last Sunday

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Quite tall (can’t remember the dimensions now but I’ll attach a photo), mesh screen
• Lighting - Reptisun T5 HO 5.0 UVB, DAYLIGHT BLUE Reptile Bulb 60w
• Temperature - Floor is between 65-75 always, changes after I mist. Top of the cage is at ~80. I have a temperature probe at the bottom, and a hygrometer to the top that reads humidity and temperature.
• Humidity - It stays at high 40’s to early 50’s often, and goes up a bit during the night when I turn the fogger on
• Plants - Some plants are life, most are plastic. The plastic leaves seem to hold water a lot better, and all of my branches are real and from a tree in my yard.
• Placement - It gets a little breeze from my ceiling fan, but not even enough to redirect the mist. It is a little close to a window, but the window is rarely open as I live in Arizona and it gets really hot
• Location - West Valley, Arizona. Close to Phoenix

 

[MissSkittles]

From a quick glance, it looks pretty good. I’ll put my feedback in bold.

Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - Male, approx. 5 months old That looks about right
• Handling - I’ve only handled him once to put him in his enclosure, but since he’s really new, I want to give him space before working on actually handling him Excellent! Here’s a great blog on building trust. https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/building-trust-with-your-chameleon.2396/ Veileds are not known for being very friendly, and as they get older they usually become less so. Every now and then though, there is the rare Veiled who is ok being handled.
• Feeding - ~10 crickets about every two days, let them roam the enclosure and he hunts them It’s usually better to use a feeding station to contain feeders and especially crickets. Any strays may get hungry during the night and will bite your guy. I like the shooting gallery https://tkchameleons.com/products/shooting-gallery but there are several different types.
• Supplements - Have not used any dusting yet, plan on introducing Reptical Calcium Make sure your calcium is without D3. You should be using that to lightly dust at every feeding except one every other week (or twice a month). For that feeding you want to use Repashy Calcium Plus LoD, which @SteveH showed above. That is a multivitamin and D3 combo that is fantastic.
• Watering - A fogger and a misting spray bottle, leaves collect water from both sources. I see him drink from the leaves and from the wet branches often You don’t want to use the fogger during the day…only at night and only if temps are below at least 68. During the day, misting the leaves for about 2 minutes twice a day - right before lights go on and off- is best. If his urates are looking a bit orange, you can add a dripper for about 15-20 minutes in the afternoon or mist a third time.
• Fecal Description - Completely white and chalky That is the urate and white means well hydrated. It’s ok to have a little yellow or orange at one end, but if all orange or dark, your guy is dehydrated or hasn’t pooped in too long. The poo is the usual dark brown and should be a little log. I do suggest getting a fecal parasite check done, which requires a vet visit and a fresh poo (less than 24 hours old).
• History - He was only adopted this last Sunday

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Quite tall (can’t remember the dimensions now but I’ll attach a photo), mesh screen For adults, the minimum is a 2x2x4’ enclosure or equivalent. If you have the space and all, I encourage going bigger. It’s pretty easy to join 2 XL screen enclosure side by side and it’s wonderful seeing them use that space.
• Lighting - Reptisun T5 HO 5.0 UVB, DAYLIGHT BLUE Reptile Bulb 60w Perfect! Your uvb should be about 8-9” above your basking area for optimal exposure. Some say the blue lights are bad for chameleon eyes, but I seem to recall it being said the blue were ok. It’s primarily the red ones that are to be avoided. Hopefully you have your lights on a 12 hour schedule and no lights or heat at all at night.
• Temperature - Floor is between 65-75 always, changes after I mist. Top of the cage is at ~80. For adult males, basking temp can be as high as 85. I have a temperature probe at the bottom, and a hygrometer to the top that reads humidity and temperature.
• Humidity - It stays at high 40’s to early 50’s often, and goes up a bit during the night when I turn the fogger on Good, but just make sure daytime stays below 50%. High heat + high humidity increases risk for respiratory infection. At night provided your temps are below 68, you can boost humidity all the way. That simulates hydration they get in the wild thru fog.
• Plants - Some plants are life, most are plastic. The plastic leaves seem to hold water a lot better, and all of my branches are real and from a tree in my yard. Many veileds will nibble their plants and some just devour them. Because of this, it’s best and safest to have only safe, clean live plants. This will help guide you. https://chameleonacademy.com/plants/
• Placement - It gets a little breeze from my ceiling fan, but not even enough to redirect the mist. It is a little close to a window, but the window is rarely open as I live in Arizona and it gets really hot As long as no heat is coming thru the window and into his enclosure, heating him and risking overheating him, that is fine. Chameleons do prefer to be up high so if your enclosure isn’t already sitting on a table or something, I suggest putting it on something.
• Location - West Valley, Arizona. Close to Phoenix

Even though you have already been provided with feeder info, I’m adding it again, along with what to feed your feeders. Providing a variety of appropriately sized healthy feeders is best and most nutritious. Although you don’t want your beautiful guy to go the other way and become obese, you can give some treats of superworms and wax worms as they are high in fat. I recommend getting a kitchen style scale that measures in grams and regularly weigh your guy. While his casque is a bit concave, you don’t want it or his cheeks puffing out, which indicates obesity. Adding a video that you might find interesting. Keep asking questions as you need and I do hope you’ll stick around. We’ve got an awesome little community here.

 

[whalesharkcoolness]

Thank you for replying! Here’s the info you asked for

Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - Male, approx. 5 months old
• Handling - I’ve only handled him once to put him in his enclosure, but since he’s really new, I want to give him space before working on actually handling him
• Feeding - ~10 crickets about every two days, let them roam the enclosure and he hunts them
• Supplements - Have not used any dusting yet, plan on introducing Reptical Calcium
• Watering - A fogger and a misting spray bottle, leaves collect water from both sources. I see him drink from the leaves and from the wet branches often
• Fecal Description - Completely white and chalky
• History - He was only adopted this last Sunday

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Quite tall (can’t remember the dimensions now but I’ll attach a photo), mesh screen
• Lighting - Reptisun T5 HO 5.0 UVB, DAYLIGHT BLUE Reptile Bulb 60w
• Temperature - Floor is between 65-75 always, changes after I mist. Top of the cage is at ~80. I have a temperature probe at the bottom, and a hygrometer to the top that reads humidity and temperature.
• Humidity - It stays at high 40’s to early 50’s often, and goes up a bit during the night when I turn the fogger on
• Plants - Some plants are life, most are plastic. The plastic leaves seem to hold water a lot better, and all of my branches are real and from a tree in my yard.
• Placement - It gets a little breeze from my ceiling fan, but not even enough to redirect the mist. It is a little close to a window, but the window is rarely open as I live in Arizona and it gets really hot
• Location - West Valley, Arizona. Close to Phoenix

From a quick glance, it looks pretty good. I’ll put my feedback in bold.

Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - Male, approx. 5 months old That looks about right
• Handling - I’ve only handled him once to put him in his enclosure, but since he’s really new, I want to give him space before working on actually handling him Excellent! Here’s a great blog on building trust. https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/building-trust-with-your-chameleon.2396/ Veileds are not known for being very friendly, and as they get older they usually become less so. Every now and then though, there is the rare Veiled who is ok being handled.
• Feeding - ~10 crickets about every two days, let them roam the enclosure and he hunts them It’s usually better to use a feeding station to contain feeders and especially crickets. Any strays may get hungry during the night and will bite your guy. I like the shooting gallery https://tkchameleons.com/products/shooting-gallery but there are several different types.
• Supplements - Have not used any dusting yet, plan on introducing Reptical Calcium Make sure your calcium is without D3. You should be using that to lightly dust at every feeding except one every other week (or twice a month). For that feeding you want to use Repashy Calcium Plus LoD, which @SteveH showed above. That is a multivitamin and D3 combo that is fantastic.
• Watering - A fogger and a misting spray bottle, leaves collect water from both sources. I see him drink from the leaves and from the wet branches often You don’t want to use the fogger during the day…only at night and only if temps are below at least 68. During the day, misting the leaves for about 2 minutes twice a day - right before lights go on and off- is best. If his urates are looking a bit orange, you can add a dripper for about 15-20 minutes in the afternoon or mist a third time.
• Fecal Description - Completely white and chalky That is the urate and white means well hydrated. It’s ok to have a little yellow or orange at one end, but if all orange or dark, your guy is dehydrated or hasn’t pooped in too long. The poo is the usual dark brown and should be a little log. I do suggest getting a fecal parasite check done, which requires a vet visit and a fresh poo (less than 24 hours old).
• History - He was only adopted this last Sunday

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Quite tall (can’t remember the dimensions now but I’ll attach a photo), mesh screen For adults, the minimum is a 2x2x4’ enclosure or equivalent. If you have the space and all, I encourage going bigger. It’s pretty easy to join 2 XL screen enclosure side by side and it’s wonderful seeing them use that space.
• Lighting - Reptisun T5 HO 5.0 UVB, DAYLIGHT BLUE Reptile Bulb 60w Perfect! Your uvb should be about 8-9” above your basking area for optimal exposure. Some say the blue lights are bad for chameleon eyes, but I seem to recall it being said the blue were ok. It’s primarily the red ones that are to be avoided. Hopefully you have your lights on a 12 hour schedule and no lights or heat at all at night.
• Temperature - Floor is between 65-75 always, changes after I mist. Top of the cage is at ~80. For adult males, basking temp can be as high as 85. I have a temperature probe at the bottom, and a hygrometer to the top that reads humidity and temperature.
• Humidity - It stays at high 40’s to early 50’s often, and goes up a bit during the night when I turn the fogger on Good, but just make sure daytime stays below 50%. High heat + high humidity increases risk for respiratory infection. At night provided your temps are below 68, you can boost humidity all the way. That simulates hydration they get in the wild thru fog.
• Plants - Some plants are life, most are plastic. The plastic leaves seem to hold water a lot better, and all of my branches are real and from a tree in my yard. Many veileds will nibble their plants and some just devour them. Because of this, it’s best and safest to have only safe, clean live plants. This will help guide you. https://chameleonacademy.com/plants/
• Placement - It gets a little breeze from my ceiling fan, but not even enough to redirect the mist. It is a little close to a window, but the window is rarely open as I live in Arizona and it gets really hot As long as no heat is coming thru the window and into his enclosure, heating him and risking overheating him, that is fine. Chameleons do prefer to be up high so if your enclosure isn’t already sitting on a table or something, I suggest putting it on something.
• Location - West Valley, Arizona. Close to Phoenix

Even though you have already been provided with feeder info, I’m adding it again, along with what to feed your feeders. Providing a variety of appropriately sized healthy feeders is best and most nutritious. Although you don’t want your beautiful guy to go the other way and become obese, you can give some treats of superworms and wax worms as they are high in fat. I recommend getting a kitchen style scale that measures in grams and regularly weigh your guy. While his casque is a bit concave, you don’t want it or his cheeks puffing out, which indicates obesity. Adding a video that you might find interesting. Keep asking questions as you need and I do hope you’ll stick around. We’ve got an awesome little community here.
View attachment 359484View attachment 359485

Thank you so much for the advice! I will definitely look into a feeding station for the crickets, and check out the blogposts you sent over once I am home. I also should have mentioned, I have been keeping the fogger on only overnight, and if the humidity starts to drop and it looks quite dry, sometimes I switch it on for just a few minutes to keep it humid. I have noticed him trying to eat the leaves, but they’re so tightly secured that he’s not able to pull anything off or apart. That being said, I will definitely work on replacing them with live plants.