Noob needs advice ;(

[ChamAlien]

Hi everyone. I am new to the hobby and after a couple months of research I have picked up my first cham 4 days ago! Kleid is a blue bar ambilobe. Even with an abundance of research I have come across some inconsistencies, especially with regards to juvenile chams, so if you could help clear some things up that’d be greatly appreciated! I know raising a cham (especially a baby) is tough but I really wanted to raise him to see him progressively show his colour and grow into a beautiful adult like his dad.

He is just under 4 months old and I have him in a 16x16x30 screen enclosure. For lights I have a Reptisun 5.0 UVB Compact (read these used to be bad for their eyes but the problem was fixed a while ago?) and a Zoo Med 50 watt basking bulb. I currently have 3 fake plants that hang on both the sides and the back and plan on picking up a money tree (pachira aquatic?) this weekend which will go on the floor of the enclosure. I have a DIY dripper (a deli container with a pin hole at the bottom) and I mist twice a day for about 2mins/session (I read sessions should be about 5mins each but my cage is already soaked after a couple minutes – still need to look into a drainage system.)

Now the 2 things I am most worried about: temperature/humidity and feeding. Temperature worries me being that I live in Ontario, Canada and the winter is quickly approaching, and I also live in the basement. The temp at the basking spot is about 90-92 and the humidity is fairly low sitting at low 40s until I mist then it rises close to 60. Is the temp too high and humidity too low? Hoping the live money tree will fix the humidity issue if it is too low.

Finally, onto the most varying info I’ve found, feeding. I read that juvie chams eat anywhere from 12-20 crickets a day, however Kleid has had a VERY small appetite since I got him 4 days ago. He ate about five small crickets the 1st and 2nd day, then four on the 3rd day and a minute TWO crickets yesterday. At this point I am in the process of making him a feeder cup as is it seems tough for him to free-roam catch the crickets. I would also appreciate some clarification on amount/type of supplements . I currently use the RepCal Herptivite Multivitamins which I plan on using once a week and Rep Cal Calcium WITH D3 once a week. Should I be throwing Calcium WITHOUT d3 into the equation at some point?? I feed my crickets cricket feed and water gel – is this sufficient “gutloading”?

Last thing, I promise , I know chams are not social pets by any means but what is the best way to try to tame my cham? Another reason why I chose to buy a younger cham was so I have more time for him to get used to me/tame him. I would love for him to be able to crawl on my hands/arms occasionally or allow me to move him onto a plant outside the cage. In no rush to do so, but would appreciate tips on best ways to go about taming him or getting him more tolerable of me.

Sorry for the essay… just a noob that wants the best for my cham lol

He’s asleep now but will try to take a pic of the little guy and the setup tomorrow.

Thanks in advance!

 

[kinyonga]

Since most feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorous its recommended that you dust at most feedings with a phosphorous - free calcium powder to help make up for it.

It's usually recommended that you dust twice a month with a phosphorous-free calcium/D3 powder to ensure that the chameleon gets some D3 without overdosing it and leaving the chameleon to produce the rest of the D3 from its exposure to the UVB light.

It's also recommended that you dust twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene ( prOformed ) source of vitamin A. PrOformed sources of vitamin A cannot build up in the system and lead to overdoses like prEformed sources can and will leave it up to you to decide whether the chameleon needs prEformed or not. Some people feel that panther chameleons do need some prEformed once in a while.

 

[GillietheAmbilobe]

Hi! So far you're doing a lot of things right. I'm in with over four years of research on the topic and still have similar problems. One way you can fix the humidity problem is to put a shower curtain on 2-3 sides if the cage for or put a few live plants in the cage. (Ihave the same size cage and am getting a panther in December). I live in Colorado, which is also extremely cold in the winter. For the basking spot, maybe try to raise the lamp off of the cage an inch or two, or lower the basking spot. Hope I helped out, and good luck!

 

[carol5208]

The compact bulb should be fine. When you upgrade him to a larger cage as he grows, you might want to switch to the tube 5.0. It covers more area and will light up the cage more. Your temp at the basking spot should be ok. As long as he is not too close to it, as you don't want him to get burned. If you see him opening his mouth up while basking, then you could try lowering it some. I have found my young panthers like it warm and do just fine. Your chameleon is just settling in to his new environment. Some will eat like pigs at the very beginning and others are more sporadic with their feeding habits until they get used to things. I would also try adding a few other feeders to this diet. I like silkworms. They are high in calcium and low in fat. You will want to gutload your crickets better with fresh fruits and vegetables. Instead of water cubes, try using oranges. I use Kale, Mustard greens, carrots, apples, etc. I think you will be ok on that humdity. 60% after misting is ok. 40 is not that low. You want it to go up and down during the course of the day. As far as handling, I don't think there is anything wrong with it at all, especially if your chameleon chooses to come out to you. Try holding a cricket or worm up to him and try and see if he will eat it. Let him associate your hand with something positive and he will know you are not going to hurt him. If you want to try and pick him up, don't grab him. Slowly reach your hand under his front legs and lift up and hopefully he will climb on. I also used a stick in the beginning and let them crawl onto that and then sat down with the stick on my lap and let him check me out and get used to me. Lastly, some chameleons are more friendly and tolerating of being handled when out of the cage. You might try setting a large potted plant outside of the cage, opening the door and letting him climb onto that if he will. Then you might find him more approachable. Kinyonga already addressed the calcium issue. Start giving him plain calcium with no d3 at your daily feedings and alternate the other two so he gets those supplements twice a month or so. Don't be shy about asking questions! We were all noobs at one point! Congrats on your chameleon and welcome to the forums!

 

[ChamAlien]

Thanks for the help everyone! I haven't been using the calcium without d3. I have the day off so I'll go grab some of that today and a live plant and try to make a feeder cup. Any recommendations on a DIY feeder cup without using a big milk jug? I feel like the milk jug will be a little too big for the cage.