Rate My Theoretical Setup

[Mason]

I Believe in this list I have every basic need for a panther chameleon. I will be picking him up in February and would love to have you guys rate his "theoretical setup"

18x18x36 Reptibreeze Enclosure 95$ flat

UV Hood 50$ flat

Heat Dome 25$ flat

Heat Bulb 15$ flat

UVB Bulb 40$ flat

Calcium Powder 20$ flat

Cricket Bin 10$ flat

Cricket Stuff 120$ flat

Tank Decore 90$ flat

Mister 15$ flat

Nosybe Chameleon 150$ flat



I have left most things fairly general to start but I'd love some specific brands or ideas for certain pieces. I live in Canada right in Toronto so there's
tons of reptile expos everywhere for me to buy everything I need specifically a breeders expo in September where I will buy most of my pieces (besides the Male) Money isn't much of factor here because of such a large amount of time before I receive the animal. I will also be upgrading his tank to the XL size when he is old enough. For any more information on this thread just ask, Ill be checking the post hourly for updates and I'd love to start a good discussion. Cheers

 

[ridgebax1]

This would be my ideal setup:

dragon strand cage 24x24x48 with ledges

Tropic Blaze Quad lights from Light Your Reptiles

Mist King automated misting system (I have an aquazamp but I think the owner is having some issues) I love my Raindome.

Dome light hood/halogen bulb for heat

Calcium, Calcium with D3 and multivitamin powder

More variety in feeders. Crix/roaches for staples; horn, silk, phoenix, butter worms. (I don't do supers or mealies)

Lots of live plants

 

[Scout]

Your going to need the XL repti breeze.

No way around it man. Spend the extra $20 you won't regret it!

Your chameleon will thank you later on too.

 

[Wowbango]

Your going to need the XL repti breeze.

No way around it man. Spend the extra $20 you won't regret it!

Your chameleon will thank you later on too.

I was told by many on here, as well as breeders, that starting a baby in a cage like the XL is a bad idea as it can stress them and they have difficulty finding their food. Is this not the case?

 

[DeremensisBlue]

All chameleons in any set-up require their heat gradient, UVB, food, water, and a hiding area. You can easily provide this for a juvenile in an adult cage if you think on a juvenile scale. Large cages tend to not work well because of how we put them together and maintain them, not because a large living space stresses a chameleon (oh, how soon we forget where these guys come from).

So let’s take the standard four foot tall cage as an example. Let’s break it up into four 1 foot segments from top to bottom. For an adult we would have the top segment clear as a basking zone, the middle two segments filled with foliage for hiding and water drinking, and the lower zone kept clear so that excess water can drain freely, escaped feeders do not have a place to hide and cleaning is much easier.

This provides a whole lot of hiding space for a juvenile chameleon. This is fine. If this really is an issue for whatever reason then you can use only the second segment from the top as your foliage layer and leave segment 3 clear like the bottom segment. They will gravitate to the foliage layer. You can flesh out the 3rd level down when your pet gets bigger. But, really, the most important thing here is access to water. In captivity we tend to water in localized areas. Chameleons won’t always go into water unless they are dehydrated. They have evolved to expect water to come to them (rain) so if they are rushing to the water you should have concern about them not getting enough. But, I digress. Just make sure you watering system covers the foliage area and you should be fine. Whether you have two segments of foliage or one.

A chameleon of any size has trouble finding food if that food can hide. In a large cage there are more places to hide so food may escape the chameleon if it is released on the side screen panel and let run free. A large feeder dish/feeder run is a good thing to use with juveniles as it keeps the food in a small area. Hang it next to a perching branch that is by a dense leafy hiding area. The chameleon will learn soon enough where the food tends to be and will, if the conditions are right (has hiding place nearby that they can feel safe in), hang out in that area waiting for the food. Chameleons learn very quickly where the food is. You can still do the free range cricket thing if you want in addition to the cup feeding.

The advice to keep juvenile chameleons in a smaller grow out cage is good advice because it makes things easier. You don’t have to explain details about gradients and food dishes and there is less room for misinterpretation. Unfortunately, advice spread around like this soon morphs from “this is the easiest way to make it work” to “it must be done this way or your chameleons dies”. The bottom line is that a juvenile chameleon will do great in a 48” tall cage. Just make sure they have all the gradients necessary (heat, UVB, humidity, and hiding opportunities) and water and they will thrive. Hang your food dish in the same area each time and you will find that no matter how big the cage, they will gravitate towards where the food bowl is. If you incorporate the basic principles of chameleon cage design, a 48” tall cage is better for a juvenile chameleon. The stress is actually with the chameleon owner who is now not able to keep an eye on their chameleon 24/7 and can’t them eating and drinking every day. My suggestion here is to adjust to seeing your chameleon once a day after a bit of a search and to monitor his/her food and water intake by the size, frequency, and moistness of their poop. A nice shaped, moist cricket "biscuit" every day or two means thumbs up whether you see the little guy or not.

Bill

 

[OldChamKeeper]

This would be my ideal setup:

dragon strand cage 24x24x48 with ledges

Tropic Blaze Quad lights from Light Your Reptiles

Mist King automated misting system (I have an aquazamp but I think the owner is having some issues) I love my Raindome.

Dome light hood/halogen bulb for heat

Calcium, Calcium with D3 and multivitamin powder

More variety in feeders. Crix/roaches for staples; horn, silk, phoenix, butter worms. (I don't do supers or mealies)

Lots of live plants

This