Separating the #!*% from the feeder

nick barta

Chameleon Enthusiast
Site Sponsor
This is an easy way to have the frass (poop) from crickets, roaches, super worms, horn worms, and silk worms be "automatically" removed from the feeder bin.

What ever size plastic bin you use for the feeder, buy a second one.
On the 1st bin the beasts live in, cut out the BOTTOM, and replace with aluminum window screen. I use wood strips along all 4 bottom edges, sandwich the screen in between the wood, and hot glue it also.

The second bin is the catch bin for the frass, put the feeder bin in the second bin, dump it once a week.

Some tricks:

Bigger frass needs bigger holes

For bigger frass, as larger horn worms and larger silk worms, you can buy plastic "place mats" at Joann's Fabrics. They come with 2 size of holes, and can replace the screen bottom. They can be sprayed with an out door hose for cleaning, they are very durable.

For LARGE horn worms (1/4 inch diameter), restaurant supply companies sell soft flexible plastic mat with a grid about 3/8 inches.

No money for a second container?

If you don't want to buy a second container, you can always use a plastic lid from another container you are not using to catch the frass. The advantage to the second container is that it keeps escapees contained.

What are the negatives?

For supers, if you use a fine dry gut load, or bran as a bedding/food, they will also go through the screen. I use oats for supers to solve this, and dry gut load is put in a lid with a 1/8 inch lip so the supers can climb in and out. This contains most of the gut load, and I am not throwing it away.

What are some advantages to this system?

For crickets in large populations, you will smell less unpleasant aroma. When I have had lots of crickets, I would dump the catch bin 2 times a week.

If you use a lid to catch the frass, and the container is on blocks, the airflow dries it out quickly, resulting in less odor.

Any time we can remove a feeder from living in it's own waste seems to make sense…:D

CHEERS!

MERRY CHRISTMAS

Nick
 
I have thought of trying this but never got around to getting the second bin. I would Definately want a bin like you said for escapees. I wouldn't mind crix but no roaches:eek::eek:. I will have to give this a try!
 
I think you will find that it works well, and will reduce the smells associated with the frass.

It also will give you better airflow if you just have a lid as the catch basin, and you raise it up.:D

Nick
 
That's a great idea, thanks for sharing it.

You can buy screen, any size mesh, by the square foot from McMaster-Carr.
They have a better selection then Lowes or Home Depot.

This is what I do for my silkies, they get screen floors so the poop falls through, but not the silkies :)
 
Id definently use this if I ever breed crickets. At the time I'm on, feeding 1/8"-1/4" cricks every other day to my pygmy and one adult every day or so to my archer fish so I don't think it would be worth the money.
 
This is an easy way to have the frass (poop) from crickets, roaches, super worms, horn worms, and silk worms be "automatically" removed from the feeder bin.

What ever size plastic bin you use for the feeder, buy a second one.
On the 1st bin the beasts live in, cut out the BOTTOM, and replace with aluminum window screen. I use wood strips along all 4 bottom edges, sandwich the screen in between the wood, and hot glue it also.

The second bin is the catch bin for the frass, put the feeder bin in the second bin, dump it once a week.

Some tricks:

Bigger frass needs bigger holes

For bigger frass, as larger horn worms and larger silk worms, you can buy plastic "place mats" at Joann's Fabrics. They come with 2 size of holes, and can replace the screen bottom. They can be sprayed with an out door hose for cleaning, they are very durable.

For LARGE horn worms (1/4 inch diameter), restaurant supply companies sell soft flexible plastic mat with a grid about 3/8 inches.

No money for a second container?

If you don't want to buy a second container, you can always use a plastic lid from another container you are not using to catch the frass. The advantage to the second container is that it keeps escapees contained.

What are the negatives?

For supers, if you use a fine dry gut load, or bran as a bedding/food, they will also go through the screen. I use oats for supers to solve this, and dry gut load is put in a lid with a 1/8 inch lip so the supers can climb in and out. This contains most of the gut load, and I am not throwing it away.

What are some advantages to this system?

For crickets in large populations, you will smell less unpleasant aroma. When I have had lots of crickets, I would dump the catch bin 2 times a week.

If you use a lid to catch the frass, and the container is on blocks, the airflow dries it out quickly, resulting in less odor.

Any time we can remove a feeder from living in it's own waste seems to make sense…:D

CHEERS!

MERRY CHRISTMAS

Nick

That is a great idea. I will try it Nick. Every time I go on these forums, I think to myself, where is my common sense?! 12 years of working with chameleons you would think I'd have though of this-haha.
 
That is a great idea. I will try it Nick. Every time I go on these forums, I think to myself, where is my common sense?! 12 years of working with chameleons you would think I'd have though of this-haha.

I think that is a credit to this forum. By being in the discovery mode, instead of the I'm right mode, it opens up discussion and outside-the-box thinking.

Happy New Year Dooley1!!!!

Nick
 
This is an easy way to have the frass (poop) from crickets, roaches, super worms, horn worms, and silk worms be "automatically" removed from the feeder bin.

What ever size plastic bin you use for the feeder, buy a second one.
On the 1st bin the beasts live in, cut out the BOTTOM, and replace with aluminum window screen. I use wood strips along all 4 bottom edges, sandwich the screen in between the wood, and hot glue it also.

The second bin is the catch bin for the frass, put the feeder bin in the second bin, dump it once a week.

Some tricks:

Bigger frass needs bigger holes

For bigger frass, as larger horn worms and larger silk worms, you can buy plastic "place mats" at Joann's Fabrics. They come with 2 size of holes, and can replace the screen bottom. They can be sprayed with an out door hose for cleaning, they are very durable.

For LARGE horn worms (1/4 inch diameter), restaurant supply companies sell soft flexible plastic mat with a grid about 3/8 inches.

No money for a second container?

If you don't want to buy a second container, you can always use a plastic lid from another container you are not using to catch the frass. The advantage to the second container is that it keeps escapees contained.

What are the negatives?

For supers, if you use a fine dry gut load, or bran as a bedding/food, they will also go through the screen. I use oats for supers to solve this, and dry gut load is put in a lid with a 1/8 inch lip so the supers can climb in and out. This contains most of the gut load, and I am not throwing it away.

What are some advantages to this system?

For crickets in large populations, you will smell less unpleasant aroma. When I have had lots of crickets, I would dump the catch bin 2 times a week.

If you use a lid to catch the frass, and the container is on blocks, the airflow dries it out quickly, resulting in less odor.

Any time we can remove a feeder from living in it's own waste seems to make sense…:D

CHEERS!

MERRY CHRISTMAS

Nick

Nick my dubia are in a 150 gallon fish tank:eek: think that would work for me? The only way they (dubia) are allowed in our house in in the big tank. Makes my hubby feel secure.
 
I haven't tried it with Dubia, perhaps a Dubia person has tried this, can add to the conversation.:confused:

Happy New Year Laurie!:D

Nick
 
I haven't tried it with Dubia, perhaps a Dubia person has tried this, can add to the conversation.:confused:

Happy New Year Laurie!:D

Nick

I don't do this with my tubs of dubias as it would cost a bit extra that I don't want to spend. I do use sifters I have made for cleaning and sorting my tubs out. As long as you use screen size holes, it will not allow the babies to go through it. Not all the frass will fall through, and definitely not the shed skins, but a lot will. If you use any larger mesh, some of the small babies will fall through.

On a side note:
For me with the dubias, I don't worry about them having some frass. It is dry and has minimal odor. I do feel they (especially the nymphs) use it to hide in some as well.

If you give them a lot of really wet veges, the frass will be more moist. This past Halloween I gave all the tubs a lot of carved pumpkins. They loved it, but there was so much moisture in it as well.
 
I have found that frass removal is not that important for dubias and the little ones seem to do better with it than without it.

For using the screen with crickets, wouldn't the baby crickets fall through? Those pinheads can be super tiny.
 
I have heard that baby dubia eat the frass ?!

Anyway, I don't get as neurotic about cleaning the dubia bin as I do the crick bin.

I use screen floors for my silkies, 3 different size mesh, one for the babies, one for the medium size, and the last has big openings for the large ones.

If I put in a screen floor on my crick bin, I would need to have some cross braces or it would sag too much in the middle.

Some day, when I have the time, energy, and inclination, I will do it (which means NEVER!!!) :eek: :eek:
 
I have found that frass removal is not that important for dubias and the little ones seem to do better with it than without it.

I have heard that baby dubia eat the frass ?!

Anyway, I don't get as neurotic about cleaning the dubia bin as I do the crick bin.


It definitely isn't as important for the roaches. I mostly clean the tubs every 1 - 1.5 months so there can be quite a bit of build up when some of my grow out tubs may have up to 10k roaches or so (I haven't counted and don't really want to...).

When I first started increasing production I tried separating the new nymphs by themselves. Doing so they had no frass and sadly all died. It was a while before I tried again and still didn't include any frass, just had the temperatures, feeding, and water down better. I had no die off. So, they don't need the frass, however, I feel it does help them be a little more durable they will hide in it, I'm guessing helps with temperature a little; there usually is some fine food mixed in with it, when the adults run out of the tub of dry ground grains, they usually pull some of the powder out with it; and they can get some moisture from some of it I'm sure when you are feeding a lot of really wet foods to the adults. I'm not convinced they really eat the frass itself.

I still have a bit to learn about the roaches for them to strive even better, however so far they seem to do quite well. I do remove all the frass when I do clean as it isn't necessary with everything else in place, but I don't clean as often as other things :) Hope this helps.
 
At first, I had a really hard time breeding dubia, everone said it was so easy, but I kept getting frustrated with no luck.
Then, I put a large heating matt, a under tank heating matt, and regulated it with a inline lamp dimmer.
I kept playing with temps, raising it every few weeks.
Then, bingo!! the magic temp was 90F and they started breeding like crazy!!

That problem solved, I moved on to my next project, learning to succesfully breed crickets :D
Trouble I have with cricks, the pin heads take FOREVER to grow up!
And many of them die along the way.
So even though I had a zillion pins, weeks later I only have half that many!
And by the time they are large enough to use as feeders, only a few hundred survived :confused:
 
At first, I had a really hard time breeding dubia, everone said it was so easy, but I kept getting frustrated with no luck.
Then, I put a large heating matt, a under tank heating matt, and regulated it with a inline lamp dimmer.
I kept playing with temps, raising it every few weeks.
Then, bingo!! the magic temp was 90F and they started breeding like crazy!!

When you were playing with the temps, did you ever try any warmer then 90? The roaches definitely like it best between 90-100 from all I've read/seen. I keep mine at 95 and just wondering your experience there.


That problem solved, I moved on to my next project, learning to succesfully breed crickets :D
Trouble I have with cricks, the pin heads take FOREVER to grow up!
And many of them die along the way.
So even though I had a zillion pins, weeks later I only have half that many!
And by the time they are large enough to use as feeders, only a few hundred survived :confused:

The crickets are one I'm hoping I don't start breeding haha. I really hate the noise, smell, jumping, biting haha Any ideas why the die off from the pins? They able to get the food well enough? Temps? lighting too much/little? hides? I do want to breed the flap-necked chams, and when having the babies I may look to breed just during that time so I have the pins to feed them, but that doesn't excite me haha
 
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