T5 5.0 and supplements?

[Reptarmama]

I have a T5 5.0 24” I just bought. I upgraded to a 4-4.5 foot enclosure. I went from those stupid zoomed double bulb with the blue 65w. I realized it was bad.

Right now I have the 4-4.5 enclosure with the T5 5.0 sitting on top (I feel like it should be suspended but I’m not sure how far) I also have a 100w flood light in a dome. It is suspended about 3-4 inches. My panther chameleon has been going to the top to bask, staying towards the middle, and sleeping towards the bottom. His colors are looking much better now!

Apart from should I raise them and how far, my REAL question is with the new light- how should I do my supplements? Right now I do calcium no d3 3-4 times a week (usually every other day), calcium with d3 once every 2 weeks, and reptivite once every 2 weeks. He’s about 8 months old. Thanks in advance!!

 

[MissSkittles]

Hi. I have my lights sitting right on the top of my enclosures for my adult chameleons. Unless you have a baby or screen top walker (most adults are too heavy to do this) or have bought a uvb bulb stronger than a 5.0 or 6% for your T5, no need to elevate it. You want the distance between your uvb light and basking area to be about 8-9” for the ideal UV index. I also have my basking light resting on the top and just adjust the wattage of the bulb to achieve my desired temp (which is around 84-85F for your adult male panther).
You are good on your supplements. Use calcium without D3 lightly dusted on every feeding and then alternate the calcium with D3 and ReptiVite without D3 every week, so that each is given one feeding every other week. Just make sure to dust lightly. You don’t want them looking like little snowmen or powdered donuts. I feed my chams 3 days a week (plus treats) and your guy may soon show signs that he is ready to have his feedings reduced. Panthers are good like that.
Btw, he is a good looking guy.
I like all the color and flowers, but am going to suggest swapping those or at least some of them out for safe live plants. Pothos is amazing for chameleons. I hang my artificial plants on the outside of the door to give them more privacy.

 

[Reptarmama]

Hi. I have my lights sitting right on the top of my enclosures for my adult chameleons. Unless you have a baby or screen top walker (most adults are too heavy to do this) or have bought a uvb bulb stronger than a 5.0 or 6% for your T5, no need to elevate it. You want the distance between your uvb light and basking area to be about 8-9” for the ideal UV index. I also have my basking light resting on the top and just adjust the wattage of the bulb to achieve my desired temp (which is around 84-85F for your adult male panther).
You are good on your supplements. Use calcium without D3 lightly dusted on every feeding and then alternate the calcium with D3 and ReptiVite without D3 every week, so that each is given one feeding every other week. Just make sure to dust lightly. You don’t want them looking like little snowmen or powdered donuts. I feed my chams 3 days a week (plus treats) and your guy may soon show signs that he is ready to have his feedings reduced. Panthers are good like that.
Btw, he is a good looking guy.
I like all the color and flowers, but am going to suggest swapping those or at least some of them out for safe live plants. Pothos is amazing for chameleons. I hang my artificial plants on the outside of the door to give them more privacy.

Thank you!!! Yes, the real plants are my next mission lol. He’s my first Chameleon. So, I’m learning and adjusting

 

[nightanole]

Check your D3 supplement. Some can literally be 1000x higher than another.

With the 6%/5.0 bulbs we have been settling around 5000-10,000 iu/kg. Meanwhile repashy SuperCal HyD is over 100,000 iui/kg and is more for australia's finest sun lovers.

 

[Reptarmama]

Thank you, I didn’t know this! How do I find out and what’s the overall range I should be looking for?

 

[nightanole]

Thank you, I didn’t know this! How do I find out and what’s the overall range I should be looking for?

5000-20,000 iu/kg



Its written on the bottle.

RepCal D3+ 400,000 IU/kg
Flukers Reptacalcium 100,000 IU/lb
Exoterra 14,740 IU/lb
ZooMed ReptiCalcium 22,907 IU/kg
Mineral -indoor 2000ui per kg
Repashy calcium plus LoD 8,000 IU/lb
Arcadia is also around 2,300 IU/lb or 5000 IU/kg
I dont have the time right now to convert kg to lbs, but just pretend that the 8,000 IU/lb is 20,000 ui/kg

For the longest time LoD was the #1 recommended D3, and it still is. So those are about the limits, 20k on the high side and 5k on the low side. If you get something that is 30k-40k or higher, its really meant for setups with low power bulbs, or non chameleons like beardies and tegus.

 

[MissSkittles]

My vet recommended for me to use Zoo Med Repti calcium (without D3). I’ve been using that and then the ReptiVite with D3 (one feeding every other week). It’s worked well, but currently I’m switching the ReptiVite with D3 to Repashy Calcium Plus LoD with the blessing of my vet. It’s a combined multivitamin and D3 that contains preformed vitamin A for healthy eyes. I’ve been to a few different reptile vets and each one has their own preferences and has told me to use different products. I’ve gone by what others here have to say about each and the quality of the brand.