The “Infamous” Eye Bump

[GiraffeSpots]

Hello Everyone!

I have reached my wits end with this and have decided to officially bite the bullet and post.

My male veiled chameleon Oliver (2 months) has developed an eye bump on his left eye. It doesn’t seem to bother him and he follows my finger with it. There is also no discharge nor is it watery. I will try to attach pictures. He has had this bump for some time now. I have taken him to the vet and they have flushed his eye out and removed some shed that was inside his eye. He has been on antibiotic eye drops for the past 2.5 weeks and nothing has changed with his eye. It looks just like it did before we started him on the eye drops.

I have done extensive research online and have come across numerous posts and inquiries regarding this very same issue. Sadly from what I have read they all ended in the same result for owners who had to go through this. It ends up in numerous visits to the vet and all these antibiotics and then the post goes cold with no updates. He has a vet appt on 4/4 to follow up on his eye. At his last visit his dr decided to do eye drops and have us raise his humidity hoping it was just shed that was still in there and would eventually work it’s way out. If that didn’t work she mentioned taking a needle to it, but due to the proximity of it to his eye that was a last resort.

While I’m ready to take on this fight with my little man, does anyone have any suggestions or guidance on what can make this journey a bit easier? Or does anyone who has previously posted with the same issue have any current updates or insight?

I am hoping that since he is still little and has a lot of growing to do, it will eventually go down. However, some idea of what to expect would be nice.

Thank you in advance!

 

[Beman]

So a few things... That jungle vine he is on... They are known for the coating coming off and going into the eyes when they rub their face on them.

Can you tell me what supplements you are using and the schedule?

 

[GiraffeSpots]

I have filled this out. Hopefully it helps!

Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon- The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • 2 month old male veiled chameleon. I have had him for a month and a half.
• Handling- How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Not very often. So far I’ve only held him to give him his medicine.
• Feeding- What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • He eats gut loaded crickets, dubias, and he used to eat mealworms but vet told me to replace with black soldier larva. They are gutloaded with mazuri. He eats 3 times a day about 5 insects each session. And usually has about 3-5 in his feeding cup.
• Supplements- What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • RepCal without D3 every feeding and RepCal with D3 2 times a week.
• Watering- What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • We have a dripper as well as misting sessions. We use a handheld automatic mister and usually mist for 2 mins at a time 2x a day. He usually only drinks from the dripper.
• Fecal Description- Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • Urates are white with no sign of yellow or orange. His poop is what I would consider normal consistency, nothing out of the ordinary and all insects are digested thoroughly. He has never been tested.
• History- Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
  • When I first got Olly, he would always make a whining sound and sure enough it was the beginnings of a URI. They performed an X-ray since he was too small for blood work and vet saw a tiny spot in one of his lungs and prescribed him an antibiotic injection we gave him every 3 days for 7 doses and increased his humidity. He hasn’t made any noises since then nor shown any respiratory issues.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type- Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • 24x24x48 Reptibreeze screened cage. To increase the humidity when he wasn’t feeling good we clinged the two side panels and back panel with clear window film. It is currently still on.
• Lighting- What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Arcadia 7% T5 linear bulb across the middle of cage from 8-8 and Flukers 100 watt dome heating lamp also on from 8-8
• Temperature- What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • I use an infrared thermometer to measure the temp of his enclosure for his vet visits. His basking spot it 89 and 6 inches from the dome lamp. His cool spot is 76 and his low temp at night is 68
• Humidity- What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Usually it is around 50-55%. We wrapped the side and back panels with plastic to keep the humidity stable. We also use a hygrometer (with a dial) to measure and is placed in the middle of his cage. Vet has suggested the kind with the wires so I’ve ordered it.
• Plants- Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Yes, some bromeliads, a corn plant, some croton (which I watch and make sure he doesn’t bite)
• Placement- Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • In the guest room on the second floor. It isn’t near any vents and there is no fan running in there not much foot traffic either. The cage is on a table that is about 24in high so I would say it’s probably about 2 feet from the ground.
• Location- Where are you geographically located?
  • I am located in Central North Carolina

  • So a few things... That jungle vine he is on... They are known for the coating coming off and going into the eyes when they rub their face on them.
    
    Can you tell me what supplements you are using and the schedule?

 

[GiraffeSpots]

So a few things... That jungle vine he is on... They are known for the coating coming off and going into the eyes when they rub their face on them.

Can you tell me what supplements you are using and the schedule?

i am getting rid of those ASAP! I have actually read that a few times online. Any suggestions for replacements? I’m weary of overseas manufactured products on Amazon….

 

[Beman]

i am getting rid of those ASAP! I have actually read that a few times online. Any suggestions for replacements? I’m weary of overseas manufactured products on Amazon….

Flukers vines are the only fake vines I recommend for chams.

 

[Beman]

See my feedback in bold. Let me know what questions you have.

I have filled this out. Hopefully it helps!

Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon- The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • 2 month old male veiled chameleon. I have had him for a month and a half. Have you had gender confirmed?
• Handling- How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Not very often. So far I’ve only held him to give him his medicine.
• Feeding- What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • He eats gut loaded crickets, dubias, and he used to eat mealworms but vet told me to replace with black soldier larva. They are gutloaded with mazuri. He eats 3 times a day about 5 insects each session. And usually has about 3-5 in his feeding cup. Should be eating a bit more then this because it is so young. I would feed in the first half of the day so there is plenty of time to bask and digest.
• Supplements- What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • RepCal without D3 every feeding and RepCal with D3 2 times a week. This is too much D3. D3 Should only be given 2 times a month like the 1st and the 15th. Or you can create a D3 overdose. What are you doing for a multivitamin?
• Watering- What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • We have a dripper as well as misting sessions. We use a handheld automatic mister and usually mist for 2 mins at a time 2x a day. He usually only drinks from the dripper. You can up misting session length if he is actively trying to clean that eye. Although most will not clean out their eyes with a manual sprayer only and automatic mister like a mistking. The spray is finer in these.
• Fecal Description- Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • Urates are white with no sign of yellow or orange. His poop is what I would consider normal consistency, nothing out of the ordinary and all insects are digested thoroughly. He has never been tested.
• History- Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
  • When I first got Olly, he would always make a whining sound and sure enough it was the beginnings of a URI. They performed an X-ray since he was too small for blood work and vet saw a tiny spot in one of his lungs and prescribed him an antibiotic injection we gave him every 3 days for 7 doses and increased his humidity. He hasn’t made any noises since then nor shown any respiratory issues.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type- Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • 24x24x48 Reptibreeze screened cage. To increase the humidity when he wasn’t feeling good we clinged the two side panels and back panel with clear window film. It is currently still on.
• Lighting- What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Arcadia 7% T5 linear bulb across the middle of cage from 8-8 and Flukers 100 watt dome heating lamp also on from 8-8 You will want to change the UVB bulb. The 7% bulb is the wrong type for a chameleon. This is a shadedweller bulb and the UVA amounts in it are much lower. They need the correct UVA levels to stimulate the basics like appetite. You want the 6% bulb or the 5.0 bulb and then the branch below should be 8-9 inches away. Drop the 100 watt bulb way back to like a 60 watt. 100 watt is way too strong for a cham and will produce too hot of temps.
• Temperature- What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • I use an infrared thermometer to measure the temp of his enclosure for his vet visits. His basking spot it 89 and 6 inches from the dome lamp. His cool spot is 76 and his low temp at night is 68 Basking is way too hot. This is really dangerous with a young baby. Max should be low 80's for an adult. So keep it more to 80 for a baby. 6 inches is really too close. This is going to be a thermal burn risk as baby grows and the casque gets higher.
• Humidity- What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Usually it is around 50-55%. We wrapped the side and back panels with plastic to keep the humidity stable. We also use a hygrometer (with a dial) to measure and is placed in the middle of his cage. Vet has suggested the kind with the wires so I’ve ordered it. analog gauges are not accurate so I am glad you are replacing it. I would not let his daytime humidity get any higher then where it is at. Typically recommended for a veiled is 40-50%.
• Plants- Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Yes, some bromeliads, a corn plant, some croton (which I watch and make sure he doesn’t bite) crotons are considered safe. Most will not mess with the bromeliads unless they bloom. Pothos are really good for Veileds.
• Placement- Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • In the guest room on the second floor. It isn’t near any vents and there is no fan running in there not much foot traffic either. The cage is on a table that is about 24in high so I would say it’s probably about 2 feet from the ground.
• Location- Where are you geographically located?
  • I am located in Central North Carolina

 

[GiraffeSpots]

See my feedback in bold. Let me know what questions you have.

I have filled this out. Hopefully it helps!

Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon- The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • 2 month old male veiled chameleon. I have had him for a month and a half. Have you had gender confirmed?
• Handling- How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Not very often. So far I’ve only held him to give him his medicine.
• Feeding- What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • He eats gut loaded crickets, dubias, and he used to eat mealworms but vet told me to replace with black soldier larva. They are gutloaded with mazuri. He eats 3 times a day about 5 insects each session. And usually has about 3-5 in his feeding cup. Should be eating a bit more then this because it is so young. I would feed in the first half of the day so there is plenty of time to bask and digest.
• Supplements- What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • RepCal without D3 every feeding and RepCal with D3 2 times a week. This is too much D3. D3 Should only be given 2 times a month like the 1st and the 15th. Or you can create a D3 overdose. What are you doing for a multivitamin?
• Watering- What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • We have a dripper as well as misting sessions. We use a handheld automatic mister and usually mist for 2 mins at a time 2x a day. He usually only drinks from the dripper. You can up misting session length if he is actively trying to clean that eye. Although most will not clean out their eyes with a manual sprayer only and automatic mister like a mistking. The spray is finer in these.
• Fecal Description- Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • Urates are white with no sign of yellow or orange. His poop is what I would consider normal consistency, nothing out of the ordinary and all insects are digested thoroughly. He has never been tested.
• History- Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
  • When I first got Olly, he would always make a whining sound and sure enough it was the beginnings of a URI. They performed an X-ray since he was too small for blood work and vet saw a tiny spot in one of his lungs and prescribed him an antibiotic injection we gave him every 3 days for 7 doses and increased his humidity. He hasn’t made any noises since then nor shown any respiratory issues.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type- Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • 24x24x48 Reptibreeze screened cage. To increase the humidity when he wasn’t feeling good we clinged the two side panels and back panel with clear window film. It is currently still on.
• Lighting- What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Arcadia 7% T5 linear bulb across the middle of cage from 8-8 and Flukers 100 watt dome heating lamp also on from 8-8 You will want to change the UVB bulb. The 7% bulb is the wrong type for a chameleon. This is a shadedweller bulb and the UVA amounts in it are much lower. They need the correct UVA levels to stimulate the basics like appetite. You want the 6% bulb or the 5.0 bulb and then the branch below should be 8-9 inches away. Drop the 100 watt bulb way back to like a 60 watt. 100 watt is way too strong for a cham and will produce too hot of temps.
• Temperature- What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • I use an infrared thermometer to measure the temp of his enclosure for his vet visits. His basking spot it 89 and 6 inches from the dome lamp. His cool spot is 76 and his low temp at night is 68 Basking is way too hot. This is really dangerous with a young baby. Max should be low 80's for an adult. So keep it more to 80 for a baby. 6 inches is really too close. This is going to be a thermal burn risk as baby grows and the casque gets higher.
• Humidity- What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Usually it is around 50-55%. We wrapped the side and back panels with plastic to keep the humidity stable. We also use a hygrometer (with a dial) to measure and is placed in the middle of his cage. Vet has suggested the kind with the wires so I’ve ordered it. analog gauges are not accurate so I am glad you are replacing it. I would not let his daytime humidity get any higher then where it is at. Typically recommended for a veiled is 40-50%.
• Plants- Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Yes, some bromeliads, a corn plant, some croton (which I watch and make sure he doesn’t bite) crotons are considered safe. Most will not mess with the bromeliads unless they bloom. Pothos are really good for Veileds.
• Placement- Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • In the guest room on the second floor. It isn’t near any vents and there is no fan running in there not much foot traffic either. The cage is on a table that is about 24in high so I would say it’s probably about 2 feet from the ground.
• Location- Where are you geographically located?
  • I am located in Central North Carolina

First and foremost, thank you for your time and your amazing insight!



Yes, our vet confirmed he was our little old man.



I will up his amount of feeding. The vet also mentioned that at 18.3 grams he should be a little heavier. She said he isn’t underweight but he’s less than she would like to see him at



Yikes! I will totally tone down on the D3. I bought some zilla vitamin supplement spray but due to the awful reputation this company has I’ve been skeptical to use it. So currently I do not do any multivitamin. Any suggestions?



I saw the reptisun 5.0 uvb T5. Is this more appropriate? I will also switch to a 60 watt heat lamp and place his new Flukers vines much lower when I switch them out.

 

[Beman]

First and foremost, thank you for your time and your amazing insight!



Yes, our vet confirmed he was our little old man.



I will up his amount of feeding. The vet also mentioned that at 18.3 grams he should be a little heavier. She said he isn’t underweight but he’s less than she would like to see him at



Yikes! I will totally tone down on the D3. I bought some zilla vitamin supplement spray but due to the awful reputation this company has I’ve been skeptical to use it. So currently I do not do any multivitamin. Any suggestions?



I saw the reptisun 5.0 uvb T5. Is this more appropriate? I will also switch to a 60 watt heat lamp and place his new Flukers vines much lower when I switch them out.

My pleasure to help...

Would you mind if I confirm gender for you? If so take a pic of the back of the back feet like on a branch from the side view of the foot. Not that I do not trust your vet but we have seen where a vet has told people the wrong gender.

For 2 months old baby actually is not that small in weight. Now getting them eating more does allow them to put on grams faster. I never did feedings with my babies. I always dumped 2 dozen or more feeders in their feeder run and let them have at it. I find that they are really drawn to the movement.

One thing we have seen is that over supplementation can cause eye issues. Similar to what is happening with babies eye now. That swelling in the bottom corner. Now I am not saying 100% that this is what it is but is one area we want to correct in case it is linked. I would drop the calcium with D3. I would buy Repashy Calcium Plus LoD version. Make sure it is the LoD version. Then you would use this one 2 times a month say the 1st and the 15th then all other feedings would be plain calcium without D3. The repashy is a multivitamin that has D3 and vitamin A in it along with water soluble vitamins.

I would also pull the ladder bridge out. This is going to be hard to grip.

Yes the reptisun 5.0 will work and is appropriate with a single bulb T5HO fixture. You want a distance of 8-9 inches to the branch from the bottom of the fixture.