Chameleopatrick
New Member
Lighting is a subject to chameleon keepers worldwide that is often misunderstood. Great , not good lighting is essential for long term success so this thread is here to assist you in everything you NEED to know.
Lighting terms that you should understand are;
Lumens = The unit of measure for visible light. More lumens equals brighter light.
UVB = Ultraviolet Radiation B. A wavelength of light generated naturally by the sun that is essential for processing calcium in reptiles. Artificial sources of this type of light are available and will be discussed later in this thread.
Color temperature = The color of the light emitted from a light source. 5000 kelvin to 6500 kelvin is considered natural day light full spectrum. 5000K closely resembling approximate noon day sun color and 6500K representing morning and evening. While 3500 K to 4100 K color is common in household lighting. 5000K bulbs will show off your chameleons and plants best most natural colors while 6500 K will wash out your colors, both will grow plants given ample lumens.
CFL = Compact Fluorescent Light, used with common lightbulb fixtures. CFL's can provide visible (UVA) light, UVB light, but don't typically throw much heat to be used as a spot bulb for basking chameleons.
T5HO, T8, T12 =Linear Fluorescent Tubes, such as shop lighting. a specialty fixture is required. T5HO currently produces the most lumens or brightness of any of the commonly used tubes and is highly recommended for planted habitats with live plants.
MVL = Mercury Vapor lamp is lighting that provides heat, light and UVB. These bulbs run very hot, produce good lighting, and are sensitive to damage. more will be discussed later.
Incandescent = Standard old school filament lightbulb. This type of bulb runs hot and provides light and heat but no UVB. Comes in a wide variety of bulb configurations from flood to standard.
LED = Light Emitting Diode. Fairly recent in the chameleon hobby, used almost exclusively for additional lumens or brightness. these run very cool and are the most efficient light source per watt when using CREE LED's. Not many consumer products are offered currently in the reptile hobby using CREE technology.
Fixture = The mechanism that holds and operates your light bulb. Having the appropriate fixture with a good reflector facilitates a clean presentation of you chameleon habitat.
Light cycle = Day and night, usually controlled via a timer using 12 - 14 hours of daylight per 24 hour period.
As keepers, many will attempt to replicate natural conditions as close as possible for their species in alignment with best husbandry practices. The sun produces between 20,000 and 30,000 lumens per square meter at the ground level in filtered conditions such as cloud cover or minimal shading and can produce up to 125,000 lumens in direct sunlight. Most keepers use only a fraction of lumens they need to in order to keep their chameleons and habitats healthy for the long term.
Bright enclosures will stimulate natural active behavior and will make your plants thrive. All of my chameleon enclosures have a minimum of 24,000 lumens for an 18x36" area. Most CFL's in the 26 watt range produce 1300-1600 lumens, the Longstar 40 watt CFL in 5000K will produce about 2500 lumens. How many bulbs do you need for 20,000 lumens if using regular CFL's?
Plants like Hibiscus will require all of 24,000 lumens to thrive where a Pothos plant will require considerably less such as 1200 lumens. When it comes to lumens in indoor habitats more is better.
UVB lighting is essential to normal health in reptiles, birds and humans.
UVB lighting will assist your chameleon in producing vitamin D3 which allows the body to process calcium for bone development properly. In indoor habitats UVB lights must be used and can be purchased in various lighting forms. The most popular are CFL's, MVL'S and Linear fluorescent tubes.
UVB is measured in microwatts per centimeter and the UV index. The exact number of micro watts required to synthesize calcium in chameleons hasn't yet been determined so one can refer to their native origin to assume potential required levels. The UVB output from the sun near the equator is very strong and can reach 300 to 450 micro watts in direct midday sunlight and 150-200 in the shade. When chameleons bask they absorb the maximum UVB they can, but not all chameleons are basking chameleons. So how much is enough? I let my chameleon decide by giving it various distances to sun or perch from the source. Since overexposure to UVB can have just as negative effects as underexposure and erring on the side of caution, I use a solar meter to set the zones from 140 micro watts in the basking area (top section of the habitat), then 35-75 (in the mid section of the habitat). anything below 50 micro watts seems almost useless. People often ask, what should I get 5.0,6.0, 10.0 or 12.0? The answer depends on what top you have for your enclosure, how far away the perching site is, and if the fixture has a reflector . Is your habitat top screened? if so, you can expect a significant reduction of UVB that reaches the chameleon from the light, from 10 to 50 percent. Exoterra bug screen tops reduce UVB by 50 percent while hardware cloth results in a 10 % reduction. UVB does not pass through glass or acrylic. After measuring the the UVB output of many different styles and strengths of bulbs through a screen top I wouldn't recommend anything less than a 10 percent bulb for any chameleon. The throw of the UV in CFL bulbs is very limited and the spread is minimal when compared to a T5HO bulb. So if you want maximum results both in spread and throw the T5HO works extremely well. MVL's also offer UVB and work well as a light, heat, and UVB all in one. Since these bulbs burn so hot its not recommended to place them directly on your habitat, rather hang it above in a deep dome by at least three inches above the enclosure with a basking area approximately 12" under the bulb. These will burn your plants and chameleons if too close.
Most Chameleons require some way to thermoregulate its body temperature via a basking site in which a variety of methods can be used. Ceramic heat emitters are unnatural and provide nothing over a decent light so they are not recommended. I have had terrific success with Mercury Vapor Lamps in a deep dome fixture for heat sources with every chameleon species I've kept. Regardless of what method you use for a basking light, the basking area must be appropriately measured to meet your species requirements. For example a cameroon mountain chameleon species may have a basking area temp of 82-85 degrees versus a panther or carpet chameleon which will prefer temperatures closer to the mid to upper 90's.
If a house hold bulb, spot, or halogen light is used as a basking light its essential to have an ample UVB light source also over the basking area. Also Hanging lights versus clamp on light are are much safer when it come to a hot light. I've seen too many clamp on lights accidentally get knocked off creating a potential dangerous situation.
After twenty years of indoor chameleon keeping, trying various products and methods in regards to lighting.
My recommendation for the best indoor chameleon and plant lighting is a six lamp T5HO light fixture with 5 plusrite 5000k 4900 lumen output bulbs and one Arcadia 12% bulb. in conjunction with one 100 watt power sun MVL placed appropriately.
If you use a standard bulb fixture the Longstar 40 watt 5000K CFL bulbs work very well, and have tremendous output compared to 23 or 26 watt bulbs for plant growing and lighting up your enclosure.
Lighting terms that you should understand are;
Lumens = The unit of measure for visible light. More lumens equals brighter light.
UVB = Ultraviolet Radiation B. A wavelength of light generated naturally by the sun that is essential for processing calcium in reptiles. Artificial sources of this type of light are available and will be discussed later in this thread.
Color temperature = The color of the light emitted from a light source. 5000 kelvin to 6500 kelvin is considered natural day light full spectrum. 5000K closely resembling approximate noon day sun color and 6500K representing morning and evening. While 3500 K to 4100 K color is common in household lighting. 5000K bulbs will show off your chameleons and plants best most natural colors while 6500 K will wash out your colors, both will grow plants given ample lumens.
CFL = Compact Fluorescent Light, used with common lightbulb fixtures. CFL's can provide visible (UVA) light, UVB light, but don't typically throw much heat to be used as a spot bulb for basking chameleons.
T5HO, T8, T12 =Linear Fluorescent Tubes, such as shop lighting. a specialty fixture is required. T5HO currently produces the most lumens or brightness of any of the commonly used tubes and is highly recommended for planted habitats with live plants.
MVL = Mercury Vapor lamp is lighting that provides heat, light and UVB. These bulbs run very hot, produce good lighting, and are sensitive to damage. more will be discussed later.
Incandescent = Standard old school filament lightbulb. This type of bulb runs hot and provides light and heat but no UVB. Comes in a wide variety of bulb configurations from flood to standard.
LED = Light Emitting Diode. Fairly recent in the chameleon hobby, used almost exclusively for additional lumens or brightness. these run very cool and are the most efficient light source per watt when using CREE LED's. Not many consumer products are offered currently in the reptile hobby using CREE technology.
Fixture = The mechanism that holds and operates your light bulb. Having the appropriate fixture with a good reflector facilitates a clean presentation of you chameleon habitat.
Light cycle = Day and night, usually controlled via a timer using 12 - 14 hours of daylight per 24 hour period.
As keepers, many will attempt to replicate natural conditions as close as possible for their species in alignment with best husbandry practices. The sun produces between 20,000 and 30,000 lumens per square meter at the ground level in filtered conditions such as cloud cover or minimal shading and can produce up to 125,000 lumens in direct sunlight. Most keepers use only a fraction of lumens they need to in order to keep their chameleons and habitats healthy for the long term.
Bright enclosures will stimulate natural active behavior and will make your plants thrive. All of my chameleon enclosures have a minimum of 24,000 lumens for an 18x36" area. Most CFL's in the 26 watt range produce 1300-1600 lumens, the Longstar 40 watt CFL in 5000K will produce about 2500 lumens. How many bulbs do you need for 20,000 lumens if using regular CFL's?
Plants like Hibiscus will require all of 24,000 lumens to thrive where a Pothos plant will require considerably less such as 1200 lumens. When it comes to lumens in indoor habitats more is better.
UVB lighting is essential to normal health in reptiles, birds and humans.
UVB lighting will assist your chameleon in producing vitamin D3 which allows the body to process calcium for bone development properly. In indoor habitats UVB lights must be used and can be purchased in various lighting forms. The most popular are CFL's, MVL'S and Linear fluorescent tubes.
UVB is measured in microwatts per centimeter and the UV index. The exact number of micro watts required to synthesize calcium in chameleons hasn't yet been determined so one can refer to their native origin to assume potential required levels. The UVB output from the sun near the equator is very strong and can reach 300 to 450 micro watts in direct midday sunlight and 150-200 in the shade. When chameleons bask they absorb the maximum UVB they can, but not all chameleons are basking chameleons. So how much is enough? I let my chameleon decide by giving it various distances to sun or perch from the source. Since overexposure to UVB can have just as negative effects as underexposure and erring on the side of caution, I use a solar meter to set the zones from 140 micro watts in the basking area (top section of the habitat), then 35-75 (in the mid section of the habitat). anything below 50 micro watts seems almost useless. People often ask, what should I get 5.0,6.0, 10.0 or 12.0? The answer depends on what top you have for your enclosure, how far away the perching site is, and if the fixture has a reflector . Is your habitat top screened? if so, you can expect a significant reduction of UVB that reaches the chameleon from the light, from 10 to 50 percent. Exoterra bug screen tops reduce UVB by 50 percent while hardware cloth results in a 10 % reduction. UVB does not pass through glass or acrylic. After measuring the the UVB output of many different styles and strengths of bulbs through a screen top I wouldn't recommend anything less than a 10 percent bulb for any chameleon. The throw of the UV in CFL bulbs is very limited and the spread is minimal when compared to a T5HO bulb. So if you want maximum results both in spread and throw the T5HO works extremely well. MVL's also offer UVB and work well as a light, heat, and UVB all in one. Since these bulbs burn so hot its not recommended to place them directly on your habitat, rather hang it above in a deep dome by at least three inches above the enclosure with a basking area approximately 12" under the bulb. These will burn your plants and chameleons if too close.
Most Chameleons require some way to thermoregulate its body temperature via a basking site in which a variety of methods can be used. Ceramic heat emitters are unnatural and provide nothing over a decent light so they are not recommended. I have had terrific success with Mercury Vapor Lamps in a deep dome fixture for heat sources with every chameleon species I've kept. Regardless of what method you use for a basking light, the basking area must be appropriately measured to meet your species requirements. For example a cameroon mountain chameleon species may have a basking area temp of 82-85 degrees versus a panther or carpet chameleon which will prefer temperatures closer to the mid to upper 90's.
If a house hold bulb, spot, or halogen light is used as a basking light its essential to have an ample UVB light source also over the basking area. Also Hanging lights versus clamp on light are are much safer when it come to a hot light. I've seen too many clamp on lights accidentally get knocked off creating a potential dangerous situation.
After twenty years of indoor chameleon keeping, trying various products and methods in regards to lighting.
My recommendation for the best indoor chameleon and plant lighting is a six lamp T5HO light fixture with 5 plusrite 5000k 4900 lumen output bulbs and one Arcadia 12% bulb. in conjunction with one 100 watt power sun MVL placed appropriately.
If you use a standard bulb fixture the Longstar 40 watt 5000K CFL bulbs work very well, and have tremendous output compared to 23 or 26 watt bulbs for plant growing and lighting up your enclosure.
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