which wood to use for enclosure

I wouldn't say there any wood that is "bad" per se, but some like cedar can be irritating. But you have to make sure it is sealed to prevent water damage/mold. So, the sealant has to be non-toxic.

I made mine using regular pine lumber, but used a non-toxic, waterproof sealer. Has be "up and running" for a year now with no issues. Good luck with it!
 
If you are sealing it it doesnt matter, if you are not avoid oak and cedar. I prefer poplar or birch, its the poor mans cherry :p and isnt as soft as pine. Birch is almost considered marine grade.
 
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If you are sealing it it doesnt matter, if you are not avoid oak and cedar. I prefer poplar or birch, its the poor mans cherry :p and isnt as soft as pine. Birch is almost considered marine grade.

I didn't know that about birch. Good to know for my next build - thanks!
 
Another thing to consider is "workability" of the wood.

If you are not handy or experienced working with some of the harder woods (like oak, birch, or maple), you might consider using something softer like pine. I used red oak for my enclosure (stained and sealed) without considering the properties of the wood and my own skill level (carpentry level: noob) - I had a heck of a time working with the oak since I don't own any power tools. It turned out gorgeous, but it was slow going :D. Hindsight being 20/20, I should have used pine. ;)
 
okay good to know, hoping to get some help by my bro in law who does dry wall and is real hand. planning on sealing, guess this comes into the next question, are all sealers more or less the same as long as its water based and has no toxins. how about the ones with oil? trying real hard to find minwax helsman spar urethan waterbased but NO ONE sells it around me
 
I actually prefer oil-based sealers typically, but they are much more of a hassle to work with and clean up. Plus the fumes are stronger. I used water-based clear sealer (I think it was a Minwax spar varnish, matte finish, something or other) for my cham enclosure.

The tricky part for me working with the water-based sealer was to remember to apply very thin coats. The water-based products have a tendency to blanch or haze of they are applied to thickly or if it drips. It was tiresome and slow since the coats were so thin, and I still ended up with a few white drip spots. However, the water-based had very little smell, was very easily to clean up, and cured much more quickly than the oil-based, so it has some convincing advantages.
 
For an enclosure inside the house, I wouldn't expect to have to reseal it anytime soon unless water sits on any of the surfaces or if any parts are subject to regular wear. If it's outside, then, yes, you will probably have to reseal every year or two.
 
if the wood is being sealed do i still need to use silicone in the corners of the wood enclosure? (this is including the sides top and bottom)
 
Silicone in the corners wouldn't hurt. Honestly, I didn't do that anywhere except the base. You might want to do a test panel to make sure the sealant you want to use will adhere to the wood sealer. Sealant compatibility can be an issue.



I don't know anything about working with teak except that it's gorgeous! It's probably dense as heck too.
 
so I was looking into either most likely poplar but also birch until my brother in law just informed me he has TONS of maple wood panels from a job he did where it was the wrong product and brought home. Just wondering if they were ready for a building would there be anything i need to worry about or should it be the same as any normal wood. have some pics ill post to see if it may help. Like i'd assume it to be okay since some people turn closets and dressers into enclosures and it will be sealed with a waterbased sealant
 
so theres the front and back. this is not actual piece im using just an example i have used for something else
 

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I have used cedar branches that I get from the golf course I work at and peel all the bark off. It is very pliable and my cham for some reason likes to find the smallest tiniest branches to sleep on.
 
if you go back 3 posts to where my pictures are in the first picture where the woods cut is that going to be safe to expose? or am i going to run into problems if that comes into contact with water?
 
if you go back 3 posts to where my pictures are in the first picture where the woods cut is that going to be safe to expose? or am i going to run into problems if that comes into contact with water?

That looks like particle board with a laminated surface. The particle board will suck up water like a sponge and turn all sorts of nasty, peeling, swelling, until it finally falls apart. You are going to want to seal any exposed edges really, really well.
 
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