Hello and welcome! There's been some good info given here but it may be sort of confusing.
One of the best places to start is here:
https://chameleonacademy.com/panther-chameleon-care/
The Chameleon Academy is an absolutely fantastic resource that's the most up to date husbandry on chams that you'll find.
Seeing what you have here, there are a few things you want to change immediately.
Temperature: If your temperature is 27C about 1/3 of the way down the cage, and your cham can get higher up than that, she's FAR too hot. 27 is about the warmest you want to have her at her basking spot, which I suspect is much closer to the top of her cage. You want this to help manage the eggs she'll be producing - lower heat means less hungry, and less food means fewer eggs, which results in a much longer lifespan for our lovely ladies. For the heat, most folks use a 60 watt incandescent bulb for their heat. The reptile bulbs tend to get WAY too hot, and a ceramic heater can risk that as well. Additionally, turn the heat off when her lights go off. As the Chameleon Academy website mentions, chams need a pretty significant temperature drop and it's safe (encouraged) for the temps to drop as low as 15-21C. This is LIKELY why she's gaping so much if an RI was ruled out - she's too hot. Also her pictures show her very pale, and they go as pale as they can when they're too warm as well.
Lighting: Flickboy mentioned an update to lighting. The light you have looks like a spiral UVB bulb. Unfortunately, those don't give off any usable UVB for most chams, and they're not recommended at all. It's possible that some of her tongue issues are due to lack of proper UVB. This is something I would also immediately correct. Like mentioned above, you want a linear UVB bulb with a 6% UVB rating. The most popular ones are the Arcadia T5HO 6% or the Zoomed T5. Arcadia is best because you only have to change the bulbs out about once a year. Zoomed, you need to change them every six months. Most folks get the 24" light. Your gal may be suffering early signs of metabolic bone disease from lack of UVB, which enables her to create natural D3 and properly absorb calcium. Without proper calcium absorption, the body takes it from it bones and organs instead, and this can lead to defects in limbs, casque, tail, tongue function, etc. IT's also rather painful for them so proper UVB is absolutely CRUCIAL.
Supplements: Another thing that you need to change are the supplements. What you have been dusting your locusts with is something with D3. THis can also be contributing to the issues with aim/tongue use. As mentioned above, you need to be dusting your feeders with calcium ONLY, with no D3. D3 takes a long time to process out of a cham's body, so I'd stop supplementing with that for a month or two to see if there's improvement, instead swapping to the calcium-only powder.
Less critical:
Cage: You definitely want a bigger cage. Something like 60x60x120cm or thereabouts. You also want to make sure you have good airflow in the cage. Many people use screen cages, but I have a "hybrid" cage and a fan on the screened top, with a small screened area on the bottom. This creates a "chimney" effect and allows the cage to dry out entirely between mistings. This is crucial to prevent RIs.
Feeders: I didn't see anything about what you feed your feeders. Making sure to feed your locusts the proper foods will go a LONG way in maintaining your cham's health. Chameleon Academy has some good recommendations for what to feed them. Things like mustard greens, collard greens, some carrots and sparingly adding some fruits will give your bugs happy full stomachs, and give your cham what she needs.
Humidity: 50% is the upper range that you want for your panther cham. See about lowering that during the day and shifting that humidity towards the nighttime.
Lay Bin: I'm going to tag in
@kinyonga,
@Beman, and
@MissSkittles to discuss a lay bin and share their expertise on the nature of female chams from that perspective.
Overall though, PLEASE read through Chameleon Academy and really chew on the information there. It's fantastic info and it's set up in a way that's very easy to understand, with suggestions for products and setups that will do your cham wonderfully well.
I know that's a lot! But please let us know if you have any questions. There's more to learn for sure, but if you correct your lighting, heat, and supplementation ASAP your cham should make quite a positive change.
