ditto what Kinyonga said. There are reasons beyond heat for slack jaw.
here's a link to the questions you'll want to answer in detail:
https://www.chameleonforums.com/how-ask-help-66/
I don't think a heavily planted cage causes confusion. and if the branches don't obstruct movement, its probably fine. that said, I found most of my panthers, especially adult male, prefer more open spaces than my veiled. So therefore I keep gaps without foliage and only one or two branches...
Vegetables, fruit, nuts and seeds.
see also:
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/sandrachameleon/nutritional-information/
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/sandrachameleon/75-feeder-nutrition-gutloading.html...
I put about half a cup of powder into a bowl and poured over it a bit more than 1 cup of boiling water and mixed.
How long it lasts with crickets will depend on number of and size of crickets and whether or not you offer them anything else to eat.
I also would suspect the fixture. But you might also verify that water is not hitting the bulb in its current location (especially if you have an auto mister)
I agree that hand feeding is a success, but that it doesn't necessarily translate into handling.
Here are some things to consider:
1 - The get closer slower method
Sit on the floor some distance from the cage- visible to the chameleon but at a distance that doesn't disturb him. Sit there...
Babies usually come in spring, so you may have a wait - which may make changing paper towels and providing food in a jar a pain in the arse.
70F works well
grasshoppers
termites
gutloaded butterworms
gutloaded superworms
moths
blue bottle flies
hissers
dubia
if you ease off the quantity of crickets, you may find slight hunger encourages him to try other things. Once he has a taste for other prey, crickets can come back on the menu.
Here's a link to a list of commercial gutloads that you may find useful:
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/sandrachameleon/847-commercial-gutloads.html
or make your own:
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/sandrachameleon/823-august-2013-dry-gutload-mix.html...
I like arbutus tree
but most any type of branch works. wash in hot water with white vinegar / peroxide / oven bake or otherwise clear off most pests /bacteria/fungus. Avoid cedar and anything toxic, obviously.
My cages are sturdy wood frame so I don't have the issue of how to secure stuff to...
from what I understand, aim for 22 ºC day ambient with 30C (86F) basking, 15C (60F) night for adults
(lower basking heat and slightly higher night temp for night)
you may find these links useful...
66F isn't too bad, depending on the type of chameleon. My home is also not super warm most of the year. I found a more solid-walled enclosure helped retain heat and was a better choice for me than screen. You might retro-fit your screen cage with Plexiglas or plastic panels on the back and...
Hi
It is normal for them to turn dark when basking.
Watch the temperature closely - those glass enclosures (which it will soon grow too big for) retain heat well (sometimes too well). Your heat may be too high.
You may want to revisit your lighting also. and remove the heat rock.
Make...
I hope you find the info in these links useful
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/sandrachameleon/443-superworm-substrate-gutload-one.html
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/sandrachameleon/75-feeder-nutrition-gutloading.html...
This is what I use as the base for both Supers and mealworms
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/sandrachameleon/443-superworm-substrate-gutload-one.html
Or, click Reply
then click the paperclip icon - this will open the manage attachments dialogue box
browse to wherever the file is saved on your computer/device, then click upload