I would not use the crested gecko gutload. Just use fresh greens and fruits.
+1 you need a lot more work on the cage. Fill it up with live plants and branches
In my experience, when they go down to the dish to drink it means they are not getting enough water. Most of the time they will choose water on leaves before they go to the bottom to drink.
I just hand feed until they get comfortable. Then slowly pull the worm away and allow him to use your other hand as a stick to get closer to the worm. Once you get this down he should get more used to being on your hand.
Veileds can be cage aggressive. Once he gets older I would try free...
Sounds like he is reacting to positive care. I would get him into a full screen cage.
Do you have a heat light on him yet? If so temps around 85 under the light.
Get rid of ceramic heater, most likely not needed.
Yeah, I would not hold him for 3-4 weeks. It can really stress them out and they will not eat. He needs time to settle in. I would just put the feeders in there and leave him alone. He may have a tongue, he is just too scared to use it.
The prognoses sounds pretty grim I am sorry to say. Issues with the bones in the jaw are very serious. Infections like these can also inhibit eating. I hope for the best!
I would defiantly move the cage higher. Chameleons like being above your head, they much more safe that way. Having her on the floor stresses her out.
You do not need to rotate your UVB fixture.
In terms of lighting you only need two lights. The tube UVB and a regular house bulb for heat. I...
I would turn the light in the corner off. It could be keeping her up and could be one of the reasons she is sleeping during the day.
I would also try and figure something out so they can feed in the morning instead of the evening/night. Maybe try cup feeding. Just throw the crickets in a cup...
I do not think dirt or moss is a good idea. I have had two chameleons die from impaction, one from moss, one from dirt. Just don't use it and save yourself the headache, in my opinion.