6 baby Jackson's... need help!
- Thread starter BruceV18
- Start date
Raphael1047
Established Member
That is not good that they are sleeping during the day. Can you fill this out below. It could help people that have experience breeding jacksons to see what you can change.
Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
Cage Info:
Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
Location - Where are you geographically located?
Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.
Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
Cage Info:
Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
Location - Where are you geographically located?
Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.
Chameleons - 6 newborn Jacksons, unknown sex, under my care for 2 days
Handling - Minimal handling, only when necessary
Feeding - fruit flies, not sure how to supplement with fruit flies considering their size, used to dusting Dubias for my frogs, for them I use Repashy Calcium Plus, was going to supplement with that once on a larger food source I can dust properly. Today i was one catch a fruit fly, not sure how the other 5 are doing.
Watering - frequent misting with an exo terra mister. they drink well and seem hydrated, no visible signs of dehydration I've read up on such as sunken eye turrets
Fecal description - No feces found as of yet
cage - 13 gallon trash can modified into screen tank (see pictures)
Lighting - 26 watt Exo - Terra 5.0 reptiglo compact florescent, 12 hes per day
Temps - 77 at the top, 74 at the bottom nighttime temp is about 73 at its lowest. measured with exo terra temp/humidity probe.
Humidity - 50 on side with no fogger, 70 with fogger.
Plants - No live plants as of yet. I am using climbing twigs/branches form outside but I sterilized them with a 10 minuet 250 degree bake before using them.
Placement - It is in the living room in a low traffic area, however it is near an A/C unit and an air purifier. I figured the air purifier would create some air flow? its on a very low setting.
Location - Northeastern PA, Stroudsburg to be more precise.
Current problem - I dont think they are eating well. They seem to be waking up with the light on and enclosure set up. quite rambunctious actually. One doesnt look so active, appears to be sleeping. He hasnt looked well since I adopted him though. there seems to be a bit of his upper lip missing, almost life a cleft lip
I watched one try to eat a fruit fly, his tongue was too short to reach it though (also extremely adorable!) I dont think the fruit flies can get out, and they look a bit fatter than yesterday(?), so maybe they are eating? they seem very active today though, and all are awake at the moment, and drinking as I just sprayed.
leedragon
Chameleon Enthusiast
Chameleons - 6 newborn Jacksons, unknown sex, under my care for 2 days
Handling - Minimal handling, only when necessary
Feeding - fruit flies, not sure how to supplement with fruit flies considering their size, used to dusting Dubias for my frogs, for them I use Repashy Calcium Plus, was going to supplement with that once on a larger food source I can dust properly. Today i was one catch a fruit fly, not sure how the other 5 are doing.
Watering - frequent misting with an exo terra mister. they drink well and seem hydrated, no visible signs of dehydration I've read up on such as sunken eye turrets
Fecal description - No feces found as of yet
cage - 13 gallon trash can modified into screen tank (see pictures)
Lighting - 26 watt Exo - Terra 5.0 reptiglo compact florescent, 12 hes per day
Temps - 77 at the top, 74 at the bottom nighttime temp is about 73 at its lowest. measured with exo terra temp/humidity probe.
Humidity - 50 on side with no fogger, 70 with fogger.
Plants - No live plants as of yet. I am using climbing twigs/branches form outside but I sterilized them with a 10 minuet 250 degree bake before using them.
Placement - It is in the living room in a low traffic area, however it is near an A/C unit and an air purifier. I figured the air purifier would create some air flow? its on a very low setting.
Location - Northeastern PA, Stroudsburg to be more precise.
Current problem - I dont think they are eating well. They seem to be waking up with the light on and enclosure set up. quite rambunctious actually. One doesnt look so active, appears to be sleeping. He hasnt looked well since I adopted him though. there seems to be a bit of his upper lip missing, almost life a cleft lip
I watched one try to eat a fruit fly, his tongue was too short to reach it though (also extremely adorable!) I dont think the fruit flies can get out, and they look a bit fatter than yesterday(?), so maybe they are eating? they seem very active today though, and all are awake at the moment, and drinking as I just sprayed.
read this maybe you will find some similarities
https://www.chameleonforums.com/need-help-jackson-babies-100827/
are they pooping? have you seen any feces in the cage?
no feces yet, and now a few are sleeping. dont babies take naps during the day?
Raphael1047
Established Member
They shouldn't take naps. Just keep doing what you are doing.
VigilantSpearIII
New Member
Any updates? Are they eating yet?
I moved them into the kritter keroer today, the enclosure I build seemed too big for them to find food, let alone catch it. Idk if they are thin or not.. Can someone tell me if they're Ok?
Temps and humidity are still the same. I have some fruit flies in there, is it Ok to leave them in there or will they bite the babies like crickets?
Temps and humidity are still the same. I have some fruit flies in there, is it Ok to leave them in there or will they bite the babies like crickets?
leedragon
Chameleon Enthusiast
I moved them into the kritter keroer today, the enclosure I build seemed too big for them to find food, let alone catch it. Idk if they are thin or not.. Can someone tell me if they're Ok?
Temps and humidity are still the same. I have some fruit flies in there, is it Ok to leave them in there or will they bite the babies like crickets?
I don´t think fruiit flies does that, just keep doing what you are doing and make sure the lights are not to close to the babies and it is enough planted due they will close their eyes and stop doing anything due the strong light
BUT the flies can stress the if they are crawling on them, just give them time, it is no good for them to be handling that much
VigilantSpearIII
New Member
Looking good man! I would leave them the way they are! Are you placing the whole wingless fly breeding bottle inside? I just drop in a couple every few hours when I have my hatch-lings. I dont put the whole cup inside because it can be overwhelming.
Lovereps
Avid Member
Hydration is extremely important, as are small enough feeders
The reason plants are necessary is that this is where they will drink droplets of water from.
Chams will not recognize water in a dish or bowl, since in nature they only drink dew and raindrops off of leaves.
High humidity--70-80% are needed to help the babies keep from dehydrating also.
A dehydrated cham can be lethargic, may close one or both eyes and may not eat--dehydration makes a creature feel generally unwell.
You can use warm water in a clean spray bottle to mist the plants until they are nice and wet.
It is not recommended that you mist the chams directly while they are so small.
A fine mist in their enclosure can stimulate them to drink.
Live plants can help to keep the ambient humidity higher for a longer time.
You do need the enclosure to dry a bit between mistings, as constant wetness can bring on illness.
If you put paper towels on the bottom and change them often it will make the enclosure easier to keep clean (which is essential, especially with babies).
All the lights should be off for 12 hours every night--and the room they are in should be dark so they aren't disturbed.
Sometimes people have been incorrectly told by sellers to use a red light or other light at night.
If total darkness in the room isn't possible for part of the time, you could cover the enclosure with a towel to make it dark for them.
Do not run the mister or fogger at night.
Food items must be tiny in order for the babies to be able to eat them.
Petsmart and Petco typically sell Flightless Fruit Flies which are the perfect size for baby Jackson's.
The fruit flies are OK with the chams. You can put a little bit of fruit in the enclosure for the flies to nibble on.
While pinhead crickets are an appropriate size, unfortunately, the "pinhead crickets" that stores sell are most often NOT actually pinhead crickets--and are too big for the babies to eat.
Armstrong Crickets has been a reliable source for online or phone ordering of true pinhead size crickets.
Extra Small Phoenix Worms are another excellent choice.
Sometimes at least some of the Small Phoenix Worms are small enough.
Jackson's are a "montane" type of cham and montane chams are very sensitive to too much vitamin d3 and too many vitamins/minerals.
This is why it was suggested that you not add anything to the water.
For adult Jackson's the supplement recommendation is typically:
calcium without D3 every other day,
calcium with D3 1x a month
multivitamin 1x a month
For babies it may be safe to dust lightly with plain calcium more often but not any more often with D3 or multivitamins.
Perhaps someone who has raised at least, but preferably more than, 1 clutch of Jackson's babies will chime in with what they have done that worked well--particularly regarding supplements.
The reason plants are necessary is that this is where they will drink droplets of water from.
Chams will not recognize water in a dish or bowl, since in nature they only drink dew and raindrops off of leaves.
High humidity--70-80% are needed to help the babies keep from dehydrating also.
A dehydrated cham can be lethargic, may close one or both eyes and may not eat--dehydration makes a creature feel generally unwell.
You can use warm water in a clean spray bottle to mist the plants until they are nice and wet.
It is not recommended that you mist the chams directly while they are so small.
A fine mist in their enclosure can stimulate them to drink.
Live plants can help to keep the ambient humidity higher for a longer time.
You do need the enclosure to dry a bit between mistings, as constant wetness can bring on illness.
If you put paper towels on the bottom and change them often it will make the enclosure easier to keep clean (which is essential, especially with babies).
All the lights should be off for 12 hours every night--and the room they are in should be dark so they aren't disturbed.
Sometimes people have been incorrectly told by sellers to use a red light or other light at night.
If total darkness in the room isn't possible for part of the time, you could cover the enclosure with a towel to make it dark for them.
Do not run the mister or fogger at night.
Food items must be tiny in order for the babies to be able to eat them.
Petsmart and Petco typically sell Flightless Fruit Flies which are the perfect size for baby Jackson's.
The fruit flies are OK with the chams. You can put a little bit of fruit in the enclosure for the flies to nibble on.
While pinhead crickets are an appropriate size, unfortunately, the "pinhead crickets" that stores sell are most often NOT actually pinhead crickets--and are too big for the babies to eat.
Armstrong Crickets has been a reliable source for online or phone ordering of true pinhead size crickets.
Extra Small Phoenix Worms are another excellent choice.
Sometimes at least some of the Small Phoenix Worms are small enough.
Jackson's are a "montane" type of cham and montane chams are very sensitive to too much vitamin d3 and too many vitamins/minerals.
This is why it was suggested that you not add anything to the water.
For adult Jackson's the supplement recommendation is typically:
calcium without D3 every other day,
calcium with D3 1x a month
multivitamin 1x a month
For babies it may be safe to dust lightly with plain calcium more often but not any more often with D3 or multivitamins.
Perhaps someone who has raised at least, but preferably more than, 1 clutch of Jackson's babies will chime in with what they have done that worked well--particularly regarding supplements.
Last edited:
So far I've been doing all of this, so 8 guess I'm on the right track! Only three things a little different, I don't have the fogger on because I have paper towels lining the top of the kritter keeper to keep the fruit flies in, no life plants as the keroer isn't big enough for one, and no paper towels Ay the bottom add I don't want the fruit flies hiding and the babies not finding they're good, let alone catching it. Also, I've been adding repri safe to the water, it removes chlorine and metals from the water, abd ads a bit of calcium and some essential electrolytes. I don't to the recommended amount as I have well water and no chlorine in the water, but use it anyway as my frogs are sensitive and I didn't wanna risk it. Is it Ok to keep using this?
It looks like there are less fruit flies in there this morning? Not entirely sure about this though. There is one little poop in there though so I guess that's a good sign! 3 of them are still sleeping during the day, or at least closing their eyes :/ otherwise they look well.
Lovereps
Avid Member
Glad to hear it.
Cleanliness, hydration, lots of food, proper temps and a good level of UVB are basically the keys.
Hopefully, the sleepy ones will perk up.
I recently read that baby chams quickly dessicate, so high humidity without constant wetness is even more important than for adults.
Wishing you much success!
Cleanliness, hydration, lots of food, proper temps and a good level of UVB are basically the keys.
Hopefully, the sleepy ones will perk up.
I recently read that baby chams quickly dessicate, so high humidity without constant wetness is even more important than for adults.
Wishing you much success!
AngieL
Avid Member
Dehydration and over heating are two lead causes of health issues in baby jax. If they're sleeping its not a good sign. I know these were likely surprise babies (I have not read the entire thread) and you have probably been asked about temps etc. so I just want to suggest proper housing like a mesh cage, heck even a mesh laundry hamper and to get the humidity up. By putting towels over the lid you are restricting air flow which will lead to stagnant water and higher temps.
I'm at a loss, conditions are perfect readings, but I've lost 2 of them I'm actually really upset bu this, in my 5 years of keeping herps I've never had a loss... they other 4 don't look too hot themselves. I've been focusing more on getting them to drink more so than eat at the moment since they never seem to want to eat anyway... temps are 73, 77 in the warm spot, humidity is around 60, 90 with the fogger on with i turn on and off throughout the day. 12 hrs of light, 12 off, plenty of plants and twigs to climb on and hide in. I have them in the kritter keeper, however I've modified a drainage for it so no stagnant water at the bottom... I think maybe the babies were just not well from their previous environment at petsmart and just couldn't turn around since then? I almost feel like I'm failing them and I'm going crazy trying to figure out what is wrong!
I'm actually really upset bu this, in my 5 years of keeping herps I've never had a loss... they other 4 don't look too hot themselves. I've been focusing more on getting them to drink more so than eat at the moment since they never seem to want to eat anyway... temps are 73, 77 in the warm spot, humidity is around 60, 90 with the fogger on with i turn on and off throughout the day. 12 hrs of light, 12 off, plenty of plants and twigs to climb on and hide in. I have them in the kritter keeper, however I've modified a drainage for it so no stagnant water at the bottom... I think maybe the babies were just not well from their previous environment at petsmart and just couldn't turn around since then? I almost feel like I'm failing them and I'm going crazy trying to figure out what is wrong!
bbprinting
New Member
Don't bame yourself. You are doing everything possible to keep them alive. You are just in bad position caused by someone else. You should be praised for taking on this monstrous responsibility because of you compassion for the helpless babies
chameleonowner32
Avid Member
''Jackson's are a "montane" type of cham and montane chams are very sensitive to too much vitamin d3 and too many vitamins/minerals.
This is why it was suggested that you not add anything to the water.
For adult Jackson's the supplement recommendation is typically:
calcium without D3 every other day,
calcium with D3 1x a month
multivitamin 1x a month
For babies it may be safe to dust lightly with plain calcium more often but not any more often with D3 or multivitamins.''
I dust my Jackson's twice a week with plain calcium to avoid enedma. Here is a calcium caresheet.
Supplementation:
Calcium and other vitamins are very important to your chameleon's health. Feeder insects should be lightly dusted with powdered supplement before being fed to your chameleon. As a montane species (native to higher altitudes) Jackson's have decreased supplementation requirements compared to tropical species due to metabolism differences. Use calcium (without D3 or phosphorus) twice a week, a multivitamin once a month, and calcium with D3 once a month.
Here is the caresheet for Jackson's/ baby to adult https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/caresheets/jacksons/
This is why it was suggested that you not add anything to the water.
For adult Jackson's the supplement recommendation is typically:
calcium without D3 every other day,
calcium with D3 1x a month
multivitamin 1x a month
For babies it may be safe to dust lightly with plain calcium more often but not any more often with D3 or multivitamins.''
I dust my Jackson's twice a week with plain calcium to avoid enedma. Here is a calcium caresheet.
Supplementation:
Calcium and other vitamins are very important to your chameleon's health. Feeder insects should be lightly dusted with powdered supplement before being fed to your chameleon. As a montane species (native to higher altitudes) Jackson's have decreased supplementation requirements compared to tropical species due to metabolism differences. Use calcium (without D3 or phosphorus) twice a week, a multivitamin once a month, and calcium with D3 once a month.
Here is the caresheet for Jackson's/ baby to adult https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/caresheets/jacksons/
Well thank you, This does make me feel a bit better I guess. My one friend owns a small pet store in the area, I know he has bred and raised geckos, and I think he mentioned chameleons as well. I think i'll stop in tomorrow and see if he'll help me out. I'd love to keep one, but I think if he dicedes to and is experienced I may let him have them and start with a Veiled that's a bit older than 1 day...
