a few simple veiled questions

streetillegal66

New Member
Cage Info:
Cage Type - 3 sides screen, one side glass. 12"x12"x16"
Lighting - 2 zoomed 12" hoods, one with a 50watt incandescent red heat bulb, the other with a reptisun fluorescent 5.0 UVB
Temperature - Day: 85 mid cage, 95 basking spot, 78 floor temp. Night 75 midcage, 85 basking spot, 68 floor temp
Humidity - use humidity gauge. humidity ranges from 40%-60%, Mist 2-4 times a day
Plants - 2 types of dracaenas
Location - cage is on top of a book shelf, bottom of the cage is a 36" from the floor and the top is 52" from the ground.


Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - Veilded 2 months old in my care as of 10/8/08
Handling - Have only handeled her twice as of now
Feeding - 5 1/4 crickets a day, 2 in the morning and 3 at night
Supplements -zoo meds reptivite evey other day i dust the crickets
Watering - I mist about 4times a day for about a minute, use a dripper for about 2 hours a day
Fecal Description - Yellow and fairly solid
History - nothing yet
Current Problem - my Vielded runs away when I mist her, and also I was wondering if anyone had any comments on the way im caring for her, im new to chemeleons and I want to make shure I am taking proper care of her
 
LOWER TEMPS PRONTO-2 month olds should have a basking spot in the low 80's. You will cook it. This is more than likely why your cham has yellow "fecal"-there should be a white part and a brown part, but yellow means dehydration-more than likely from the intense heat. There should also be NO basking spot at night-no light no heat at night-they are fine down too the low 60's. Two 12" fixtures? Do you have a coiled UVB bulb-the compact kind? They are dangerous for chams and you need a linear flourescent tube of the same brand, and switch your red light out for a white regular household bulb-chams recognize "white" light. 2 month olds can put down many more crikets than 5 a day-potentially 10-20 so you could be underfeeding. One last thing-you need calcium-you are overdosing with vitamins at the moment. You will need calcium with no D3, calcium with D3, and your vitamins. You will use the calcium without D3 about 4-5 times a week, and the other 2 once a week. Read the site linked above for excellent info and pictures on supplementing. Welcome to the forum-this is the place to ask questions and get up to date info!
 
The fecal (stool) part of the the discharge is solid brown. The white (yours is yellow) is the urate (pee). When the urate is yellow it means that your cham isn't getting enough hydration. Be sure to mist the cage well for 3-5 minutes 3 times a day. Whenever I see yellow in my guys urates I give them an extra misting for a day or two until it comes out white again. When they aren't getting enough water their eyes also start to sink in. The eyes should be poked out. There are may good pictures of chameleons on this site where you can see how the eyes should look.
 
Howdy Ryan,

I'll add to the comment about warm misting: Use water that, when misted, feels warm to your hand. Warm misting is much more inviting to a chameleon than a cold shower :eek:. Experiment with mist times. Try 5-10-15 minutes of somewhat continuous, gentle misting, and see how long it takes to trigger a drinking response. Sometimes the squirt-squirt effect of a single-shot trigger mist bottle is distressing to some chameleons. Try one of the $7 pump-up mist bottles from Home Depot. It will look similar to one of the first two in this image: http://rlflomaster.com/sprayers/hand.htm. You'll be able to adjust the mist nozzle and the bottle pressure to create a very gentle effect that your 2 month-old won't run away from as often. Start out with just a little bit of water getting on her; wait a little, then a little more and so on until she is getting plenty of mist such that it runs down her face. At that point she may figure out that the water is for drinking etc. This whole process may take many attempts over many days. Don't over do it to the point of super-stressing her. Give it time :).
 
Also...when your female gets to be about 5 months old provide her with a suitable place to dig in the cage in case she produces eggs. They can produce eggs even when not mated. Overfeeding ONCE THEY ARE ADULT can result in large clutches and egglaying issues, etc.
 
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