eisentrauti
Avid Member
Sorry, but I write in some posts before, why those tanks are better. My question to you is: What was your oldest brevicaudatus ?
absolute pygmy confusion
- Thread starter thedford
- Start date
Heika
New Member
There are several ways to keep chameleons successfully. Brevs can be kept in aquariums and live out happy little brev lives.
I have 2 WC brevs that have been with me for 3+ years. No idea how old they are, because they came to me WC. They live in the aquarium and show no signs of slowing down.
I have 2 WC brevs that have been with me for 3+ years. No idea how old they are, because they came to me WC. They live in the aquarium and show no signs of slowing down.
My oldest was a female I hatched who lived to be about 4 years.
sandrachameleon
Chameleon Enthusiast
The above is the best, most agreeable and most accurate post in this thread. IMHO
It isnt the contruction of the enclosure that is most important, but rather that the correct interior conditions are maintained. A ventilated glass terrarium may often be the best way to do this. But it really depends on too many factors for anyone to state must-do "rules".
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eisentrauti
Avid Member
3 and 4 years, respect !
critterguy
New Member
Plants do not need UV, or at least reptisun bulbs. They are uneccessary...bulbs for aquariums(try daylight bulbs around 6500K) work just fine.(unless of course the chams need it)
Actually, many terrarium plants do better with somewhat less light. I had a 96 watt CF light over my terrarium and this burned a few plants that regularly grew too close.
Actually, many terrarium plants do better with somewhat less light. I had a 96 watt CF light over my terrarium and this burned a few plants that regularly grew too close.
iluvyulots
New Member
If you need to find a new home for any of them when you do go to thin them out would you let me know I would be happy to help you in that department. I had 3 pygmy's before I moved back to Oregon, but left them with a good friend in North Carolina because I knew that wouldn't probably take doing a 3000 mile drive in the middle of winter over a 4 days drive. Just let me know if you ever do.
Jill
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blackbetty
Guest
I agree. Its whatever works for them. I followed advice on this forum just fine and have had mine for months (surprise!). I place them in front of a window for natural light, although no UV comes through the glass of course. I use dead plants, twigs, leaves.. I have a brown thumb so they get a lot. I cup feed and free roam. I have 1.2 and 6 eggs in incubation due to hatch in 2 weeks. (and even though this is my first, I think they will, at least 5. the 6th looks hard) I mist once a day in the AM and hunt them down to make sure all are accounted for. My females are both due again any day now but its harder to keep track. When the first laid, I only had one plant..now I have 4 and so much dead debris on it, I wouldnt know if she laid them. Mine are doing great and I just did what Brad and the others offered. Nothing fancy. 20 gallon tall is what I use as I noticed mine like to climb moreso than be ont he bottom. I also use a digital humidity temp gauge to make sure everything is going. It doesnt usually go below 80%. Screen top. Thats just MY experience and what works for ME. Everyone is going to have different opinions and ideas based on what works for them and their location.
I use low to medium light plants. I killed the african violet though..but its dead so it stay in just fine.
Pothos and some taller but thin plant. Cant recall but hey LOVE climbing and sleeping on it.. and a fern.
I use low to medium light plants. I killed the african violet though..but its dead so it stay in just fine.
Pothos and some taller but thin plant. Cant recall but hey LOVE climbing and sleeping on it.. and a fern.
AJA
Established Member
I have 1.2 brevs in a 10 gallon tank and 1.1 pair of kerstenii in a ten gallon tank. The brevs are quite active and mobile, whereas the kerstenii get on a perch in one corner of the tank and have stayed there even though there are other perches for them. I would like to know the following:
1. If you got a large enough tank (30 gallon) could you house both species together?
2. If I put the brevs in a 20 gallon long would that be too big for them? Making it harder to hunt their prey?
Thanks.
1. If you got a large enough tank (30 gallon) could you house both species together?
2. If I put the brevs in a 20 gallon long would that be too big for them? Making it harder to hunt their prey?
Thanks.
critterguy
New Member
Wonder if brevs could be maintained on an every other day UV schedule, or otherwise using old Reptisun 2.0/5.0 bulbs?
Or perhaps near a window with a screen section(almost like a basking cage connected to the main aquarium) to allow them to go bask if they so desired? I take it brevs would not do well being removed from their enclosure for occasional exposures to UV due to stress.
Or perhaps near a window with a screen section(almost like a basking cage connected to the main aquarium) to allow them to go bask if they so desired? I take it brevs would not do well being removed from their enclosure for occasional exposures to UV due to stress.
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blackbetty
Guest
As far as I read, Brevs dont usually live out in the open so they dont "bask" persay. Mine dont do this either. They hang out under a leaf or in a plant. I RARELY see them exposed except to cup feed
critterguy
New Member
Possible explanation?
http://blogs.thatpetplace.com/thatr...king-behavior-is-affected-by-vitamin-d-needs/
If you are supplementing the brevs, they may feel less need to bask to obtain D3 from sunlight.
brevicaudatus have been observed basking in the wild in rays of sunlight hitting the forest floor.(or course, whether it is strictly thermoregulation or if they do need UV is up to conjecture).
http://blogs.thatpetplace.com/thatr...king-behavior-is-affected-by-vitamin-d-needs/
If you are supplementing the brevs, they may feel less need to bask to obtain D3 from sunlight.
brevicaudatus have been observed basking in the wild in rays of sunlight hitting the forest floor.(or course, whether it is strictly thermoregulation or if they do need UV is up to conjecture).
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blackbetty
Guest
That makes sense to me. They are in full window view and with all the debris I have, some spots are darker than others. I see the females more than I see the male. He hides in the darker spots.
Okay, this is about pygmy confusion so Im gonna go with it and ask a few questions.
I have pygmy eggs (6) due in about 2 weeks to hatch. Im pretty sure 5 are going to go. the 6th looks very white, small, and hard. Still almost tictac sized. The others are jellybeans and have a pink translucent look. Question: Is it better to put these guys in LONG or TALL when they are hatched? I have both. I also have a small cricket carrier. how long is it safe to keep them together before they try to inbreed or the males try to fight?
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blackbetty
Guest
Well I took the females out and tried to place them in a single plant tank with sticks and debris and they both seemed to stress and try to claw their way out o i put em back in. Guess Ill just try to pay better attention and clear some away from the plant soil so I can see them better. I put the egg container inside of a critter carrier in case they happen to hatch earlier than I expect as I do not check on them daily. I have a setup ready for just them once they are strong and eating. Not sure where to go from there. LOL
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blackbetty
Guest
I have no clue. I know the female that laid the first batch laid then 6 weeks ago and is swelled up pretty big already. Whenever she lays, I will have a better idea then..if I can find them.
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blackbetty
Guest
The contest got me thinking..
Do pygmy chams shed!?
Do pygmy chams shed!?
Julirs
New Member
Yes-they absolutely shed. It is usually pretty fast, and they often shed in 2 pieces-one on each side.
