Advise??? Help

lizlover10

New Member
Okay so I'm a first time veiled owner and i just get really anxious sometimes, especially since I'm at school most of the day. I've had Tiny for about two weeks now and she got comfortable with her cage really quickly. So far she'll only eat crickets and for the last few days I don't think she's eaten much, if at all. Any advise? Also i have an automatic mister and a humidifier/fogger thingy because I'm at school all day, and her cage seemed too wet so I set the mister to go off every three hours for 15 seconds, but then her eyes looked a little sunken in so i changed it back to going off every hour. The humidifier stays on 24/7. Her sleeping schedule is the same every day except the weekends; going to bed around 9-9:30pm and waking up around 6:30am. I also set the mister back to every hour because I noticed a tiny bit of bubbles when she opened her mouth, and when i looked that up, multiple places said it could be dehydration. Any tips and tricks on how to keeps her happy and healthy would be amazing.
 
Okay so I'm a first time veiled owner and i just get really anxious sometimes, especially since I'm at school most of the day. I've had Tiny for about two weeks now and she got comfortable with her cage really quickly. So far she'll only eat crickets and for the last few days I don't think she's eaten much, if at all. Any advise? Also i have an automatic mister and a humidifier/fogger thingy because I'm at school all day, and her cage seemed too wet so I set the mister to go off every three hours for 15 seconds, but then her eyes looked a little sunken in so i changed it back to going off every hour. The humidifier stays on 24/7. Her sleeping schedule is the same every day except the weekends; going to bed around 9-9:30pm and waking up around 6:30am. I also set the mister back to every hour because I noticed a tiny bit of bubbles when she opened her mouth, and when i looked that up, multiple places said it could be dehydration. Any tips and tricks on how to keeps her happy and healthy would be amazing.
Bubbles can also mean respiratory infection. She may need a vet.

Have you read through the care sheets under the resources tab here on the forum? If not, I highly suggest you do and follow it to the letter. That is how to keep her happy

To help you more though we need more info. Please fill out the "How to Ask for Help" questions that are stickyd in the health clinic. Just copy and paste them here with your answers. Pictures are a huge help too.
 
Bubbles can also mean respiratory infection. She may need a vet.

Have you read through the care sheets under the resources tab here on the forum? If not, I highly suggest you do and follow it to the letter. That is how to keep her happy

To help you more though we need more info. Please fill out the "How to Ask for Help" questions that are stickyd in the health clinic. Just copy and paste them here with your answers. Pictures are a huge help too.
Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - Veiled female. Not sure how old but I've had her for about two weeks
  • Handling - sticking to once a week unless I'm cleaning her cage
  • Feeding - 5 small crickets any and I've tried to feed her calciworms but she won't eat any. I dust
    • with calcium and multivitamins
    • Supplements - Repti-calcium and Rep-Cal multivitamins. so far once a week with both.
    • Watering - i have an automatic mister that goes off every hour for 15 seconds and a humidifier that collects water droplets at the top, kind of like rain. I have seen her drink from the droplets at the top.
    • Fecal Description - droppings are brown with a bit of white. normal consistency. i believe she has been tested for parasites and was clean
    • History - I got her from petco and so far she's been really sweet and friendly

    Cage Info:
    • Cage Type - screen cage. 16x16x30 i think.
    • Lighting - i have a 60 watt daylight bulb and a 13 watt uvb bulb. her schedule is bedtime around 9-9:30pm and wake up at 6-6:30
    • Temperature - average temp in cage (floor to basking spot) is between 70 and 80 F. basking spot is between 80 and 90 F. i have a thermometer near the middle of her cage and another near her basking spot. at night her lowest temp is 60 F
    • Humidity - humidity levels are always between 50 and 60 percent. I have a humidifier that stays on almost 24/7. I have a digital humidity gauge.
    • Plants - not any real plants so far
    • Placement - her cage is in my room, on my desk. theres little to no traffic and no air vents or fans near her cage. the top of her cage is around 5 feet from the floor
    • Location - i live 30 minutes away from Statesboro, GA




    I got her to open her mouth, and the bubbles are completely gone and so are her crickets. I think it was just dehydration. She just started shedding too, so maybe that had an impact on her behavior?
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I'd definitely have your mister go off for more than 15 sec, I have mine set for 3 mins every 3 hrs, your trying to convince your Cham that it's raining I don't think 15 sec would do that no offense. I'd also turn the fogger off periodically depending on humidity, I definitely wouldn't have it on 24/7 but that's just my opinion.you also want your cage to dry out between mistings so humidity drop is expected and is ok, this is why I say the fogger on 24/7 isn't good due to not only constant moist air but also creating a wet area in the cage thus creating mold/bacteria etc. I'd also add a laying bin, a live plant "pothos are great so are umbrella plants" and I would point your mister toward the plants so it drips down leaves allowing easy access to drinking water. Live plants also help with keeping humidity levels higher and create more foliage if your Cham wants to retreat for a while.
 
I would move the basking branch down. As she grows her head will get closer to the screen and she can burn her casque easily. Also, some more foilage in the cage and horizontal branches. Just making suggestions so she can have the best life possible!
 
Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - Veiled female. Not sure how old but I've had her for about two weeks
  • Handling - sticking to once a week unless I'm cleaning her cage
  • Feeding - 5 small crickets any and I've tried to feed her calciworms but she won't eat any. I dust
    • with calcium and multivitamins
    • Supplements - Repti-calcium and Rep-Cal multivitamins. so far once a week with both.
    • Watering - i have an automatic mister that goes off every hour for 15 seconds and a humidifier that collects water droplets at the top, kind of like rain. I have seen her drink from the droplets at the top.
    • Fecal Description - droppings are brown with a bit of white. normal consistency. i believe she has been tested for parasites and was clean
    • History - I got her from petco and so far she's been really sweet and friendly

    Cage Info:
    • Cage Type - screen cage. 16x16x30 i think.
    • Lighting - i have a 60 watt daylight bulb and a 13 watt uvb bulb. her schedule is bedtime around 9-9:30pm and wake up at 6-6:30
    • Temperature - average temp in cage (floor to basking spot) is between 70 and 80 F. basking spot is between 80 and 90 F. i have a thermometer near the middle of her cage and another near her basking spot. at night her lowest temp is 60 F
    • Humidity - humidity levels are always between 50 and 60 percent. I have a humidifier that stays on almost 24/7. I have a digital humidity gauge.
    • Plants - not any real plants so far
    • Placement - her cage is in my room, on my desk. theres little to no traffic and no air vents or fans near her cage. the top of her cage is around 5 feet from the floor
    • Location - i live 30 minutes away from Statesboro, GA




    I got her to open her mouth, and the bubbles are completely gone and so are her crickets. I think it was just dehydration. She just started shedding too, so maybe that had an impact on her behavior?
    View attachment 176135 View attachment 176136 View attachment 176137
Please read through the careaheets. Follow them to the letter.

I agree you should move the basking area down just a bit. And 80-90 is a huge variant for a basking spot. You need to know exactly what it is. 80 is too low and 90 would be too hot for her right now. It should be right around 85.

I also agree that she needs more horizontal branches and more plants. She needs lots of pathways at different levels to be able to thermoregulate herself.

15 seconds is not long enough for a misting time. They need a few longer misting sessions to stimulate them to drink as well as give her time to clean out her eyes. 4-5 minutes.

You will also need to adjust your suppliments.
You need....
Calcium with NO D3 daily
Calcium with D3 twice a month and
The multivitamin twice a month.
She needs the D3 to help use the plain Calcium, it only takes a little which is why it's twice a month.

Also keep in mind that the UVB bulb needs to be replaced every 6 months.

Keep trying with other feeders too. A variety is good for them. Is she only eating 5 or are you only giving her 5? At that age she should be eating more. Offer her a few more and see what she does.

Definetly read up on a laying bin. She can produce eggs as soon as 4 months so it's best to have one ready and available to her.
 
It always depends on how old Tiny is. I am assuming she is a baby, if you are worried about dehydration, check her stools. If there is a white tip at the end, that means she is hydrated, if yellow or orange, she is dehydrated. Don't leave too many crickets in the cage, if there are too many loose at night, they will attack Tiny. Try to spice her diet up. Throw in some hornworms, or fly larvae. Try to dust your crickets with calcium powder before feeding them to Tiny, this will improve her bone structure.
 
Welcome to the world of chameleons!

There have been some good comments here already but I have a couple more...

If that's a recent photo she may be eating less at the moment because she's going into a shed.

Also...how big are the crickets you're feeding her?
 
Welcome to the world of chameleons!

There have been some good comments here already but I have a couple more...

If that's a recent photo she may be eating less at the moment because she's going into a shed.

Also...how big are the crickets you're feeding her?


Small crickets right now. I'm going to order multiple kinds of worms and stuff to see if she'll eat any of that. Any suggestions on what most chameleons won't deny?
 
Where do you live? Her cage is near a window and if she's getting a draft it might be part of the problem....you said she has tiny bubbles...I hope it's not the start of a respiratory infection.
 
I noticed a tiny bit of bubbles when she opened her mouth, and when i looked that up, multiple places said it could be dehydration. Any tips and tricks on how to keeps her happy and healthy would be amazing.
What places said bubbles were a sign of dehydration? Bubbles are a sign of respiratory or sinus infection.
 
Where do you live? Her cage is near a window and if she's getting a draft it might be part of the problem....you said she has tiny bubbles...I hope it's not the start of a respiratory infection.
I never open the window. It stays locked and shut. The bubbles have been gone for a few days now
 
Update: Tiny's doing well with mealworms so far now. I moved her worm bowl closer to the top and she ate them almost immediately
 
Update: Tiny's doing well with mealworms so far now. I moved her worm bowl closer to the top and she ate them almost immediately
Mealworms are not a great idea for everyday food because of their lack of nutritional value. I wouldn't use them at all.
 
Mealworms are not a great idea for everyday food because of their lack of nutritional value. I wouldn't use them at all.
They're just until some others come in. I just ordered some hornworms, super worms, and wax worms. I still have crickets too
 
Crickets or dubia need to be a staple, they are easily gutloaded. Silk worms are also great and nutritious. Hornworms are mainly water and help with hydration but too many will cause runny stools. Super worms are definitely better than mealworms. I give a couple a day along with dubia and silkworms. Wax worms are high in fat so also should be used as a treat. Just a little feeder 101 to help you out;)
 
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