Psychobunny
Avid Member
Link is in post #18.
Unless u are certain exactly what u need, best to call Todd and talk to him first to avoid any mistakes
Dont forget to tell him u are a member of the cham forum
Arcadia Lights are the Ish!!!!!!!!!!!!
- Thread starter garcia031
- Start date
Link is in post #18.
Unless u are certain exactly what u need, best to call Todd and talk to him first to avoid any mistakes
Dont forget to tell him u are a member of the cham forum
Hi Piglett....
Go with the T8 6% Premium Bulb or Arcadia new 5% T8 EuroRange.
6% D3 last a year plus and is made in Europe .
New EuroRange is a GREAT German (NOT far East Junk) made bulb, little lower price... but rated to last 9 mo.
Either one will serve you well.
Also, I urge everyone to visit visit ARCADIAs FreeKiN' FanTastIc educational web-site
http://www.arcadia-reptile.com/
Arcadia has been around SINCE THE 60's in England & Europe specializing in Pet products and Lighting.
http://www.arcadia-reptile.com/product-reviews/
That's wa-a-ay longer than anyone else I can think of off the top of my head.
Cheers!
Todd
Last edited:
Psychobunny
Avid Member
Todd, why do u suppose Arcadia never made it big in the US?
Lots of herp ppl never even heard of them
Lots of herp ppl never even heard of them
Todd, why do u suppose Arcadia never made it big in the US?
Lots of herp ppl never even heard of them
I know!
An excellent question.
I am not privy to their corporate details and thinking... so I may not be 100% on the mark...
but here is my take on it:
I have always been familiar with them because they were in the US market in the late 70's & 80's.
And in the 80's I owned a brick and mortar pet shop in Maine. Northwoods Pets in Brewer Maine.
('cause I am old as dirt. LOL.)
But quite frankly, and this may sound snobby- but I don't mean it to be that way...
They may have been TOO advanced for the North American market at the time.
You all got to remember back then - in the US & Canada - it was THE DARK AGES... literally, in reptile keeping.
The late 70's and early 80's very very few people "got" lighting and the importance of UVB (&A) and just did not understand.
There was no internet and just minimal venues for exchange of ideas/ education and reptiles suffered BADLY for it.
(Aracadia's aquarium products were also very very good... but with the US trends at the time, they just did not get the foot hold they should of.
That will change now in time too.
)At this point, I have to give props where they are due.
Zoo Med started up around then and really did an excellent job over the years with their bulbs and education to save peoples reptiles and raise the level of consciousness on the subject of herp lighting, need for UVB & overall care.
All in all - to me anyway- it seems Arcadia pulled back from the US (maybe they didn't have any good US distributors who "got it" at the time either) and concentrated on conquering the European Market.
Remember, in the US at the time-- Herps were NOT considered "real" pets but simply "disposable Pets" (sad-very sad) by the majority of the US Pet Establishment. Believe me - I know... I lived through it. It WAS appalling.
At the same time, the European Herp community was pulling ahead.
Way ahead.
Their attitude towards herps as valid pets over there was much less "5 & Dime".
Europe was advancing with more and more naturalistic methods and the demand for more sophisticated products was stronger.
They were out-pacing us caring and breeding many herps as well.
So Arcadia built a huge and VERY loyal following there.
(I think back to how advanced the Europeans were at the time even with reef tanks and saltwater aquariums! ALL the advances in the early 80's were coming out of Europe.)
But times change, and the end of the 90's and into 2000... we started to see a greater "age of enlightenment" in the US surrounding reptile and amphibian keeping.
Much in part due to the internet and GREAT forums to EDUCATE people like this one!
And it is also all about luck and timing.
You know... ol todd here pestered them for 6 months or so
to convince his new friends there at Arcadia to start selling product back to the US and Canada.YES! I said. WE ARE READY!!!!!!!!
And thankfully... after pestering... LOL.. Gerald and John and the rest of the crew there decided to give ol todd here a chance and send me / www.lightyourreptiles.com / a few cases of bulbs!
I was so excited to get them and offer them!
Because, like I said, I am an old duffer and remember how good their products were (but very hard to find) back in the 70's and 80's.
And I personally am so glad that herps are finally coming of age and people are considering them and treating them with the respect they deserve as the truly fascinating, educational and wonderful pets they are!
That is not only my philosophy, but Arcadias as well.
They strive to EDUCATE people so they their pets will do better and the bond and understanding will grow and become stronger and stronger.
Seriously. Just look at their lighting guide and website! Who else puts so much into presenting REAL information and education!?? Seriously folks- know what I mean.
http://www.arcadia-reptile.com/
I hope I have not rambled on too long and put you all to sleep. LOL
Cheers!
Todd
Last edited:
What I consider very important that some arcadia employee are actively participating in UK reptile forums (f.e arcadia john). That way they get feedback from breeders (they listen what they need, what does not work, what should be improved, where is the "market hole") and on contrary can inform potential buyers about products - not everybody understand enough about this very complex problem to know what they need. If they can ask: I have such reptile and such terrarium, what type of lamp I need for it? This is great help for them.
What I appreciate is that Arcadia products are good quality. I will not call names in public forum, but products of as minimum one leading reptile UV manufacturer are after my opinion pure shit - they break quicker like I could get them. Ok, we have here in Europe 2 years warranty and 6 month from this is "replace no questions asked" but it is very annoying if your lamp is exploding after few days of use or if you need replace 3 of them during half year - although under warranty. With Arcadia (until now, I hope it will continue) I did not have had any problem (however some construction improvements I can name to increase usability). They are a bit on more expensive side, but like we told here: we are not that rich that we can allow us purchase crappy cheap items
What I appreciate is that Arcadia products are good quality. I will not call names in public forum, but products of as minimum one leading reptile UV manufacturer are after my opinion pure shit - they break quicker like I could get them. Ok, we have here in Europe 2 years warranty and 6 month from this is "replace no questions asked" but it is very annoying if your lamp is exploding after few days of use or if you need replace 3 of them during half year - although under warranty. With Arcadia (until now, I hope it will continue) I did not have had any problem (however some construction improvements I can name to increase usability). They are a bit on more expensive side, but like we told here: we are not that rich that we can allow us purchase crappy cheap items
GreenFlinger
Member
I have access to all kinds of T5 fixtures and bulbs. Would I just need an arcadia bulb? They are the only T5 bulbs that give off UVB?
GreenFlinger
Member
I wonder if "sunleaves" are HO? If I was using a 4ft fixture I would still only need one uvb right? Or should I do more than one?
I am 99% sure they are... but hit up their web-site to check.
They may have different models I am not aware of.
And yes, one Arcadia should be enough if the fixtures is... say..about 14 - 18" away from the animals primary "hang out" / basking area.
Cheers!
Todd
www.lightyourreptiles.com
D3 T5 bulbs are produced just in 24,39 and 54 Wattage (55,85,115 cm long). You need T5 fitting not only correct length but Wattage as well. If it is true it will work (as minimum here in Europe) the electronic will be "OK".
I use origininal "double" fitting from Arcadia. In terrarium I have just lamp, the electronic is outside. It is watertight so no problem with misting, humiidity. Ok, it is warm so I do not spray when it is in use, but otherwise it is big advantage. And because it serves 2 lamps those can be in different terrariums, I am not able here purchase fitting at 50% of original price so it is in fact cheapest what I can get (i will be able manufacture it from parts cheaper but it is work, although I am technician I believe it is not worth it). I use in 1 kubik meter cages 2x 39w lamps, one Arcadia, one Philips 860 color (without UV but lot of lumens) and it works great, enough light in it.
I use origininal "double" fitting from Arcadia. In terrarium I have just lamp, the electronic is outside. It is watertight so no problem with misting, humiidity. Ok, it is warm so I do not spray when it is in use, but otherwise it is big advantage. And because it serves 2 lamps those can be in different terrariums, I am not able here purchase fitting at 50% of original price so it is in fact cheapest what I can get (i will be able manufacture it from parts cheaper but it is work, although I am technician I believe it is not worth it). I use in 1 kubik meter cages 2x 39w lamps, one Arcadia, one Philips 860 color (without UV but lot of lumens) and it works great, enough light in it.
Psychobunny
Avid Member
Very interesting post Todd, I did not get bored
I too am as old as dirt, perhaps even older!
I had my first chams back in the 70's and NO ONE could help me at all with their proper care, lighting, etc.
People thought I must be nuts for even wanting them in my house!!
I actually had a adult male jacksons in a 20gal glass terrarium (cracked, cheap aquarium, didnt make terrariums like now!!).
I managed to keep it alive w/o the right UVB (never heard of such a thing back then) and only windowsil light.
Like u said, no internet, but also no books!!
I had to travel to Cornell U library to find the only book on chams available, and it was writen in German.
I had to have parts of it translated!!
So, I know exactly what you are talking about, been there!!
I too am as old as dirt, perhaps even older!
I had my first chams back in the 70's and NO ONE could help me at all with their proper care, lighting, etc.
People thought I must be nuts for even wanting them in my house!!
I actually had a adult male jacksons in a 20gal glass terrarium (cracked, cheap aquarium, didnt make terrariums like now!!).
I managed to keep it alive w/o the right UVB (never heard of such a thing back then) and only windowsil light.
Like u said, no internet, but also no books!!
I had to travel to Cornell U library to find the only book on chams available, and it was writen in German.
I had to have parts of it translated!!
So, I know exactly what you are talking about, been there!!
Chameleon Forum Message Direct from John Courteney-Smith at Arcadia! He's the man!
Message from John Courtney- Smith -
Hi to everybody over the pond
I am so pleased to read about your experiences with our products, yep I do watch these forums even though I don’t have much time to take part personally. Please let me assure you of our goals and motivations.
I am a reptile and bird keeper, I always have been. I have been involved in the trade from what Todd rightly calls the “Dark Ages” and I/we have a real passion to use our scientific knowledge and personal herp passion to make the lives of captive reptile better. Our mission statement is to “Start a revolution in Reptile care”.
We believe that animals have certain “rights”, the right to clean and safe enclosures, the right for clean water and a proper diet, the right to good vet care, the right to live a disease free life through the natural production of D3 and the right to see 100 million colours as nature intended. We believe that if science and technology allow advances in husbandry equipment then the animals deserve access to these products. We only use the very highest quality components and phosphor tech to make sure that our lamps are not only the most powerful available but have 100% UVC protection. We never scrimp on quality and we are proud to offer long guarantees even on glassware.
We advertise a % of UVB like all other brands, the difference with us is how we work this out. Firstly we take all light visible and invisible as 100%, we then let the lamps burn in for a min of 100hours. We then take a UVB % reading as a total amount of light. So our D3+ lamps have 12% UVB minimum of total light AFTER the initial burn in. We then are sure that this level is maintained for ONE WHOLE YEAR. We then pass our lamps to be professionally and independently tested and live tested. This typically takes a year from production. We NEVER sell a lamp that has not had this type of testing and assurance of efficacy.
We aim to push the boundaries of science not to make money but to give animals a better chance. Longer lives, brighter colours, more viable young and our main aim to ERRIDICATE MBD. MBD does not occur in the wild, so any animal that shows signs of disease just proves that we as a whole still have a lot more to learn.
We are committed to furthering herp education, we have uploaded what we hope is the finest educational lighting resource in the world. We certainly turn reptile lighting thinking on its head. We make broad statements, we offer honest advice and we never cover things up. www.arcadia-reptile.com
As an industry we can never now say that “this % lamp is required for that animal” just because a Cham is green does not mean it needs a 5% lamp!!! We now are educated enough to know that UVB decreases in power at a scary level the further that light travels from a lamp! So the higher the viv the more energy is required at source. So how do we advise on reptile lighting?
Firstly always look at the wild animal. My quote which I standby is “all of the secrets of great captive animal care are hidden in the wild animal” so look at the animals environment and daily activities in the wild, use local weather stations to find the average UVindex. Find out what times of the day that these animals are seen and how high above sea level and then use that info to work out a likely average UVindex. You can then use this info with the published output of the lamp to Re-Create this exposure in captivity. You will see instantly brighter colours, better feeding response and a more wild type animal which is what we all must strive towards. You will notice that we publish online the true outputs of our linear lamps in both T8 and HOT5. See the T8vsT5 section.
Anyway its great to speak to you all, if you have ANY direct questions or concerns please pass them onto Todd who will pass them personally to me. I will answer all that I can.
Again thank you all for your support in bringing our brand to your great nation! I hope personally that together we can really make a positive difference to captive reptiles, Amphibs and birds all over the world!
John Courteney-Smith
Arcadia Reptile manager.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Well said John!
Todd
Message from John Courtney- Smith -
Hi to everybody over the pond
I am so pleased to read about your experiences with our products, yep I do watch these forums even though I don’t have much time to take part personally. Please let me assure you of our goals and motivations.
I am a reptile and bird keeper, I always have been. I have been involved in the trade from what Todd rightly calls the “Dark Ages” and I/we have a real passion to use our scientific knowledge and personal herp passion to make the lives of captive reptile better. Our mission statement is to “Start a revolution in Reptile care”.
We believe that animals have certain “rights”, the right to clean and safe enclosures, the right for clean water and a proper diet, the right to good vet care, the right to live a disease free life through the natural production of D3 and the right to see 100 million colours as nature intended. We believe that if science and technology allow advances in husbandry equipment then the animals deserve access to these products. We only use the very highest quality components and phosphor tech to make sure that our lamps are not only the most powerful available but have 100% UVC protection. We never scrimp on quality and we are proud to offer long guarantees even on glassware.
We advertise a % of UVB like all other brands, the difference with us is how we work this out. Firstly we take all light visible and invisible as 100%, we then let the lamps burn in for a min of 100hours. We then take a UVB % reading as a total amount of light. So our D3+ lamps have 12% UVB minimum of total light AFTER the initial burn in. We then are sure that this level is maintained for ONE WHOLE YEAR. We then pass our lamps to be professionally and independently tested and live tested. This typically takes a year from production. We NEVER sell a lamp that has not had this type of testing and assurance of efficacy.
We aim to push the boundaries of science not to make money but to give animals a better chance. Longer lives, brighter colours, more viable young and our main aim to ERRIDICATE MBD. MBD does not occur in the wild, so any animal that shows signs of disease just proves that we as a whole still have a lot more to learn.
We are committed to furthering herp education, we have uploaded what we hope is the finest educational lighting resource in the world. We certainly turn reptile lighting thinking on its head. We make broad statements, we offer honest advice and we never cover things up. www.arcadia-reptile.com
As an industry we can never now say that “this % lamp is required for that animal” just because a Cham is green does not mean it needs a 5% lamp!!! We now are educated enough to know that UVB decreases in power at a scary level the further that light travels from a lamp! So the higher the viv the more energy is required at source. So how do we advise on reptile lighting?
Firstly always look at the wild animal. My quote which I standby is “all of the secrets of great captive animal care are hidden in the wild animal” so look at the animals environment and daily activities in the wild, use local weather stations to find the average UVindex. Find out what times of the day that these animals are seen and how high above sea level and then use that info to work out a likely average UVindex. You can then use this info with the published output of the lamp to Re-Create this exposure in captivity. You will see instantly brighter colours, better feeding response and a more wild type animal which is what we all must strive towards. You will notice that we publish online the true outputs of our linear lamps in both T8 and HOT5. See the T8vsT5 section.
Anyway its great to speak to you all, if you have ANY direct questions or concerns please pass them onto Todd who will pass them personally to me. I will answer all that I can.
Again thank you all for your support in bringing our brand to your great nation! I hope personally that together we can really make a positive difference to captive reptiles, Amphibs and birds all over the world!
John Courteney-Smith
Arcadia Reptile manager.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Well said John!
Todd
Attachments
Very interesting post Todd, I did not get bored
I too am as old as dirt, perhaps even older!
I had my first chams back in the 70's and NO ONE could help me at all with their proper care, lighting, etc.
People thought I must be nuts for even wanting them in my house!!
I actually had a adult male jacksons in a 20gal glass terrarium (cracked, cheap aquarium, didnt make terrariums like now!!).
I managed to keep it alive w/o the right UVB (never heard of such a thing back then) and only windowsil light.
Like u said, no internet, but also no books!!
I had to travel to Cornell U library to find the only book on chams available, and it was writen in German.
I had to have parts of it translated!!
So, I know exactly what you are talking about, been there!!
Exactly!
We'll --there is only one way to go for Chameleon and all herp care-
UP - UP UP!!
And we are heading in the right direction now my friend!
Todd
I have a question... kinda lost in this whole light situation. My cage I'm building is 24x30x48in its a pretty nice cage, wood frame and going to have the pet screen on the sides and doors. Its going to have aluminum screen on top since pet screen doesnt allow uvb though. I have the Reptisun 5.0 or whatever its called and I dont like them. So..... I am going to buy a Arcadia light as soon as funds come though but I dont know which one to get. So which one should i get?Hello,
Question you need tink about is: distance lamp-basking chameleon.
I tell you my solution of this problem. I have plants in cage, therefore is no lamp that can provide enough UV at bottom of enclosure (without cooking everything inside). Ok, chameleons are arboreal, therefore if they want "sun bath" they will climb to source. Oh, and UVB should come from top, this is natural, and prevent eye problems.
Chameleon can hang on top, we need to consider this danger. Mesh on top split UVB output to the half (roughly). My plants are ending approximately half foot bellow the top mesh, but I have in that region horizontal twigs. Those allow chameleon sitting conveniently 2 inches bellow the top. Now I put the linear Arcadia D3 lamp 4-5 inches above the top mesh. D3+ (12% UVB) is too strong, there is danger if chameleons will hang on top mesh too much UVB exposure. With D3 it is fiine. I put "hot spot" (halogen) 1 inch above the mesh. For montane species it is 20W halogen, for pardalis or melleri 60W Par 38. I am observing what they are doing. If you did it correctly chamelons like to sit there often but do not hang "flat side" immediatly under top mesh. I have always plant in cage that way that part is "free" and light can go up to the bottom. I spray from outside, mostly through top. I am opening screen just by some manipulation, majority is feeding, sometimes is cleaning. I am sure that reptiles somehow "feel" that they need UVB exposure and they search it actively if they need it. If just part of cage has required UVB and warm, they will be there as much as they need. problem can be just if there is too much UVB at the correct temperature. Therefore I set the UVB lamp a bit to side to such spot, so reptile can sit at the warmest place and distance to UVB will be as minimum 8 inches (but can come closer to UVB source if it will, but not under 4 inches. Because there is mesh this is safe distance. In no mesh situation we should not allow basking under 8 inches (long term). I speak whole time about Arcadia linear D3. Most other fluorescent UVB sources need way lower distances, some even that chameleon should sit directly on tube to get some UV If you own one solarmeter (I do not but close friend has one) that you can measure that by some UVB sources in fact reptiles must sit on them...
In such setups I use Vitamines like Herpetal complete F (Freilandhaltung) those are used for Reptiles kept outside with low D3.
D3+ tubes I am using by other reptiles those can not go bask so close to the source.
Question you need tink about is: distance lamp-basking chameleon.
I tell you my solution of this problem. I have plants in cage, therefore is no lamp that can provide enough UV at bottom of enclosure (without cooking everything inside). Ok, chameleons are arboreal, therefore if they want "sun bath" they will climb to source. Oh, and UVB should come from top, this is natural, and prevent eye problems.
Chameleon can hang on top, we need to consider this danger. Mesh on top split UVB output to the half (roughly). My plants are ending approximately half foot bellow the top mesh, but I have in that region horizontal twigs. Those allow chameleon sitting conveniently 2 inches bellow the top. Now I put the linear Arcadia D3 lamp 4-5 inches above the top mesh. D3+ (12% UVB) is too strong, there is danger if chameleons will hang on top mesh too much UVB exposure. With D3 it is fiine. I put "hot spot" (halogen) 1 inch above the mesh. For montane species it is 20W halogen, for pardalis or melleri 60W Par 38. I am observing what they are doing. If you did it correctly chamelons like to sit there often but do not hang "flat side" immediatly under top mesh. I have always plant in cage that way that part is "free" and light can go up to the bottom. I spray from outside, mostly through top. I am opening screen just by some manipulation, majority is feeding, sometimes is cleaning. I am sure that reptiles somehow "feel" that they need UVB exposure and they search it actively if they need it. If just part of cage has required UVB and warm, they will be there as much as they need. problem can be just if there is too much UVB at the correct temperature. Therefore I set the UVB lamp a bit to side to such spot, so reptile can sit at the warmest place and distance to UVB will be as minimum 8 inches (but can come closer to UVB source if it will, but not under 4 inches. Because there is mesh this is safe distance. In no mesh situation we should not allow basking under 8 inches (long term). I speak whole time about Arcadia linear D3. Most other fluorescent UVB sources need way lower distances, some even that chameleon should sit directly on tube to get some UV
If you own one solarmeter (I do not but close friend has one) that you can measure that by some UVB sources in fact reptiles must sit on them...In such setups I use Vitamines like Herpetal complete F (Freilandhaltung) those are used for Reptiles kept outside with low D3.
D3+ tubes I am using by other reptiles those can not go bask so close to the source.
Zach Valois
New Member
Great point. As some of you may have seen the latest thread regarding supplementation, I wonder how we will really need to adjust out supplementing with these new lights. Outdoor formula? More spaced out use of Repashy Calcium Plus? Repashy supercal LoD mixed with Repashy Supervite?
Where do we need to compensate for the change in UVB output by these seemingly fantastic new bulbs are our disposal?
Forgive me if I have overlooked this subject on the Arcadia website or elsewhere..
lausnordah
New Member
man that's a helluva plant. nice job.
the Arcadia lights I got (d3) are helping me keep a hibiscus, a ficus, and 2 large pothos alive in one of my enclosures =D
grats on converting to the light side! ::bluelightsaber::
Hoj
Friendly Grasshopper
A few members have made mention of what the cham want as far as uvb and what they would recive in the wild.
I have on multiple occasions and with multiple chams gone outside to try and test this.
What I have done is placed the cham in a dark shadded area, and then a area directly in the sun. I then take readings with me solormeter and folow them around.
almost all of the time they send a few min in the direct sun or move to the the direct sun ( approx 200-300 on the solormeter ) and they seem to find and settle in a area of 50-80 on the solarmeter.
This has bee consitant with various chams on various days with differing degrees of sun.
I have a felling that if one were to take a solormeter into the wild and test this that we would find they are often sitting in a area in the 50-80 range.
As a resut this is the range I shoot for in my setups at the basking site. The cham is free to get a little closer into the 100-120 range and can venture lower into the cage a find area virtually free of any uvb.
Just food for thought
I have on multiple occasions and with multiple chams gone outside to try and test this.
What I have done is placed the cham in a dark shadded area, and then a area directly in the sun. I then take readings with me solormeter and folow them around.
almost all of the time they send a few min in the direct sun or move to the the direct sun ( approx 200-300 on the solormeter ) and they seem to find and settle in a area of 50-80 on the solarmeter.
This has bee consitant with various chams on various days with differing degrees of sun.
I have a felling that if one were to take a solormeter into the wild and test this that we would find they are often sitting in a area in the 50-80 range.
As a resut this is the range I shoot for in my setups at the basking site. The cham is free to get a little closer into the 100-120 range and can venture lower into the cage a find area virtually free of any uvb.
Just food for thought
Similar threads
