We did speak about Cap Est, Manarana, and I think the Andasibe ones, so it could have been just the Andasibe ones, you had said. It was a long time ago. If your thought was the Andasibe introduction, that was probably it.
YES THIS IS THE ONLY OPTION
So the thought is, that Masosola and Manarana Humid forests are the primary biotopes?
MORE OR LESS YES
The more northern coastal regions are secondary?
MOST OF THEM, NOT ALL, THERE ARE
SOME ENCLAVES OF DEGRADED ORIMARY OR OF NEAR ORIGINAL RESTORED SECONDARY
Is that why Bill, and your own (though I dont know your old humidity, numbers) have adapted to 50-70%?
YES
I feel like I remember seeing under 50% for panthers for the longest time (I think CF care sheets still read that?), and due to the species above, I always questioned if that was appropriate, which was what they want, and which could they just stand.
LOOK, IMHO THE DAYTIME HUMIDITY IS NOT RITICSL AND WHETHER IT IS ANYWHERE IN THE SPAN OF 40-70, IT IS OK
THE HUMIDITY IS IN THE WILD MORE OR LESS A FUNCTION OF TEMPERATURE. IT MEANS THE WARMER THE DRIER AND THE COLDER THE MOISTER.
NOW THERE IS AN ISSUE TO WHAT COMMUNITY YOU TALK, WHETHER TO ADVANCED OPEN MINDED EXPERIENCED PEOPLE: THEN THIS IS THE DEBATE
IF SPEAKING TO OPINIONSTED NARROW MINDED IDIOT LIKE ME, IT IS USELESS ANYWAY, SAVE YOUR TIME
AND IF SPEAKING TO NEWBIE, IMHO YOU NEED TO GO SAFE AND GIVE INSTRUCTION THAT WILL MOST LIKELY WORK AND HARM LESS WHATEVER THE SURROUNDING CONDITIONS ARE. THEN I TEND TO SAY (SIMPLIFIED):
1 DO NOT CARE FOR HUMIDITY AT DAYTIME, DRY IS GOOD
2 CARE FOR EVENING AND MORNING DEW
3 IF YOU GO FOR FOGGER, CARE FOR LOW TEMPERATURE AND GOOD AIRFLOW, GIVE FOG FIR SEVERAL HOURS AT NIGHT ONLY
Also as I know there was earlier confusion, and such surrounding the 1 cricket a day thing you just brought up. I feel a lot of that may have to do with drastic size difference in crickets both species based, and age. Is there a weight that could be applied to this? The weight of what you are calling a single cricket? So that other feeders can be adapted. As Nightanole brought up, it takes 2-3 crickets to match a single Dubia, at least the crickets we have in the US, I dont know the size of your crickets over there however.
I MEAN A BIG SIZE CRICKET, ADULT like eg
Mediterranean field cricket(Gryllus bimaculatus)
AND IT IS A RECOMMENDATION OF THE APPROXIMATE VOLUME
ON AVERAGE
IF FEEDERS ARE SMALL, FEED MORE IN NUMBERS, SAME IN VOLUME.
Is your 1 cricket per day, mean exact frequency? As in, do we feed 1 single cricket per day, everyday, or feed 2-3 crickets every other day? Does that play in part in your experience any changes seen?
1. IN THE WILD THE MOST CHAMELEONS FEED ON TINY LITTLE INSECTS MANY TIMES A DAY, BUT THE FOOD INTAKE US VERY ERRATIC AND IRREGULAR
2. IN CAPTIVITY WE TEND TI HAVE BIG FEEDERS THAT CHAMELEONS ARE CAPABLEMTO EAT BUT THEY ARE NOT NATURAL ONES
MY WXOERIENCE IS RHAT THERE IS. IRTUAĽY NO DIFFERENCE IN THE QUALITY OF THE DIGESTION WHETHER YOU FEED DAILY OR WEEKLY AND ANYTHING INBETWEEN. THE DIFFERENCE IS IN THE APETITE AND WILL TO EAT WHICH IS STRONGER IF THE FOOD IS NOT GIVEN DAILY.
IF FEEDING WITH BIG ITEMS, I TEND TO RECOMMEND NOT FEEDING DAILY, IF WIMALL ITEMS, NI LIMIT.
Since were on the subject, though slightly OT for the thread, what about feeding of beetles.
CHAMELEONS TEND NOT TO LIKE BEETLES ESPECIALLY OF BLACK AND/OR RED COLOR AND OF BIG SIZE (over 2cm approax)
A GENERAL TENDENCY.
EXCEPTION ARE THERE: NAMAQUENSIS E.G.
SMALL POLLINATIR BEERLES, SUCH AS OACHNODA SP. OR JUNE BUGS ARE READILY EATEN AND I FIND RHEM IN FAECES OF WILD ONES.
You had the video, that we found your pollinator beetle species, and while we cant get those in the US, there is pollinators about the same size, and are a similar insect. Should that be the feeding regime we should be looking to?
YES INDEED
THEY ARE THE NATURAL DIET
THEY ARE EASY TO RAISE
THEY ARE EASY TO GUTLOAD WITH NATURAL GUTLOAD SUCH AS NECTAR AND POLLEN
Have you attempted feeding beetles of this type?
YES, GREAT EXPERIENCE
Any concerns of Impaction from the beetles hard shell?
NO IMPACTION NOTICED
THE HARD CHITINOUS BODY PARTS FOSTER FORMING AND MOVING THE PREY THROUGH DIGESTIVE TRACT. A GENERAL TENDENCY IN WILD EILEDS WAS: THE MORE BEETLES THE LESS. LEAVES.
THE RISK IS GINGIVAˇ INJURIES: DO NOT FEED TOO MANY
AND ALWAYS FEED THEM AFTER A HUNGER PAUSE WHEN THEY ARE RECOVERED, STRONG and hungry, then their bite is strongesT. DO NOT FEED TOO MANY AT A TIME, THEY CAN START BEING TIRED AND STOP CHEWING FORCEFULY
Would be using beetles like those, along with soft bodied feeders, (bees if you could, maybe Black Soldier Flys if not). As a more staple diet, with Roaches and Crickets being treats?
I WOULD VOTE FOR THAT DEFINITELY, AS IT IS MUCH CLOSER TO WILD DIET
If that were to take place, the beetles weigh alot more than a cricket. So would be a beetle every other day, or 2x a week with BSFs a few a day for the rest of the week?
I GUESS WHAT IS THE EXCESS WEIGHT OF SUCH A BEETLE IS THE UNDIGESTABLE HSRD SHELL, SO I WOULD KEEP TJE SAME RULE OF THE GENERALLY RECOMMENDED VOLUME
HAVING SAID ALL THAT, I REPEAT FOR THE MILLIONTH TIME:
CHAMELEONS ARE LIVING CREATURES AND THEY ARE INDIVIDUAL AND DIFFERENT IN REACTING TO THE ENVIRONMENT
OBSERVE YOUR ANIMALS AND ADJUST, ADJUST, ADJUST
SO DO NOT SHOUT ON ME THAT ONE CRICKET IS NOT ENOUGH FOR YOUR CHAM UNDER YOUR CONDITIONS. It might be! Especially if he is overheated BASED ON TEMPERSTURE RECOMMEMDATIONS IN CF Cresheets and if you bake him every day UNDER HEAT LAMP ALL SAY LONG BELIEVING THEY CAN AUTOREGULLATE. THEY CAN, IN CERTAIN SPANS AND GHEY CAN NOT IF EXPOSED TO SIMETHING THEY HAVE NEVER EXOERIENCED IN THE WILD
ADJUST AND DO NOT BLINDLY FOLLOW ANY CARE SHEET BE IT the one of the arrigant PETR OF THE ONE IF THE LOVELY, SYMPATHETIC AND KIND GUYS FROM CF
https://www.chameleons.info/l/autoregulation-myth-unleashed/
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