:ASK: Chose the right one

[ChamBram]

Hello...
My name's Bram from germany and i've just lost my veiled Chameleon (he's sick, cause of death was respiratory infection). Here i want to ask you all about chameleons husbandry.
1. Could you tell me (give me advice), which Chameleon is easier to handle/take care? I was considering a veiled Chameleon again, but friend of mine told me a phanter Chameleon is easier. I'm just affraid, that i might fail to take care another veiled Chameleon. Please let me know, if there's a species a chameleon, that easier to handle. (well, i'm so sorry for this silly question)
2. I already had a "terrarium" also called flexarium (kind of simple terrarium that built from nets. Size 18"x18"x36"). Is it good enough? Or should i built a glas terrarium? Considering the climate in Europe is always dry. I ask the pet store owner, flexarium is good, but my vet said, glas terrarium is better, cause it keeps the humidity stable.
3. I have 3Lamps now. Spot basking lamp from zoo med, Repti Glo 10.0 and 5.0 compact? Is it enough, or should i buy another lamp? Then please tell me. I also use a humidifier to keep the humidity the cage on 60-70%, is that wrong?

So here am begging you to share your knowledge and kindnes to me. Cause i dont want to same thing happend twice on my second chameleon. Thanks and i'm so sorry for my english.

 

[camimom]

Welcome!
Veileds and panthers more or less have the same husbandry requirements.So which one you want coems down to your preference.
Im sorry you lost your cham, but this is the right place to learn!

While we here in the US use mesh cages, I believe you should use a glass terraium because of teh dry air.

adult male veileds AND panthers need a minimum of a 24x24x48 inch cage.
You only need one uvb bulb. the 5.0 is fine, but does need to be replaced at the latest every nine months.

As for another basking bulb, you wil need to determine that based on what your temps are after getting your cage set up.
anymore questions you can post them here, or PM me.

Good luck!

 

[sandrachameleon]

you could use a plastic shower curtain (if its new, be sure to open it outside and let it off-gas for a week or two first) to cover the back and both sides of your screen cage, to help retain some humidity.
I like a glass, wood, or combo (glass and screen) cage

chameleons generally dont like to be handled.

 

[AndrewWelch]

you could use a plastic shower curtain (if its new, be sure to open it outside and let it off-gas for a week or two first) to cover the back and both sides of your screen cage, to help retain some humidity.
I like a glass, wood, or combo (glass and screen) cage

chameleons generally dont like to be handled.

Chams generally dont like to be handled, on the other side mine is very social and loves it! It all depends on your chameleon I suppose

 

[ChamBram]

I've just watched some videos on Youtube and it looks like a panther Chameleon's calmer (not easy to stress out) then veiled chameleon. How's about Kinyongia and Calumma?
I already decided to chose a wood+screen Terrarium for my next Chameleon. I'll build it by myself.
Is Reptiglo 10.0 Compact 13W no need to used? Or should i change to Lucky Reptile Sun UV Jungle 50w? Do i need a humiditier?

 

[kinyonga]

Welcome to the forum and the world of chameleons!

It would be good if you could figure out why your chameleon got a respiratory infection and correct things so that the next one won't have problems too. Did you keep the cage by the window? Were the temperatures in the cage in the right range? Were there any fans, vents near the cage? Is the house airconditioned? Were you squirting water into its mouth?

What was your cage set up like? Husbandry? (If you look at the top of the Health forum, there is a thread titled "how to ask for help"....it would be good if you filled it in so we can help you better.

Here's some information I hope will help you with supplementing, etc.....
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.

Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.

A wide variety of insects that have been well fed and gutloaded should be fed to it.

Since many of the feeder insects we use in captivity have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).

If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).

Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)

Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)

Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Please note that various supplements have various amounts of D3 and vitamin A and so some can be given more often than others. The idea still is not to overdo the fat soluble vitamins like D3 and prEformed vitamin A.

Here are some good sites for you to read too...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.