Asking for some help/review

gerhartrx

New Member
Suzi one of the members asked that I post this as well.
Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon – Veiled Chameleon (Yemen Chameleon),Male, 3-4 months old. I have had him for about one month.
Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon? Usually I will handle him only when needed. Lately since he had the eye problem I have been handling daily. He does not like me to retrieve him by hand so I have a piece of bamboo with fake shrubs on it that he will climb on. I shower him with this and apply the medicine.
Feeding – Crickets ¼ inch. 8-10 a day @ 10:00 am. The crickets get the normal Fluker’s high calcium dry food with Fluker’s Orange Cube. The 8 – 10 are placed in a separate container the night before with baby food (sweet potatoes – wet, mixed veigs – wet and baby cereal with sweet potato. I mix all this together in a small lid and leave the crickets to feast on that overnight.
Supplements – I use Sticky Tongue Farms Miner-all every other day
Watering – I have a Habba mist machine that mists the middle of the cage down the plants every three hours for 30 seconds. I also mist with warm to room temp water three additional time until all the plants are dripping. The cage dries out between misting.
Fecal Description – Droppings are white and black/brown. Sometimes there is a little yellowish orange piece (I think this means dehydrated). Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites? No, not that I am aware of.
History – None at this time.
Cage Info:
Cage Type – 65 Gallon Screen Reptarium 28” x 16.5” x 30”
Lighting – I have three lights. A Exo Terra 18” Repti Glo 5.0 UVB Florescent bulb, One Zoo Med 100w basking bulb and one Zoo Med 100w infrared light bulb. What is your daily lighting schedule? During the day 7am – 8pm All lights are on and during the night hours only the infrared light is on.
Temperature – Cage floor @ 70 degrees 1st level 75 – 80 2nd level 80 – 85 3rd to the top 85- 95 depending on how close you are to the lights. Lowest overnight temp? 70 – 80 degrees. How do you measure these temps? I have a temp gauge that I can move around the cage.
Humidity - What are your humidity levels? 50 – 65 depending on the misting. What do you use to measure humidity? I have a gauge that I can move around the cage.
Plants - Are you using live plants? No live plants. All artificial. Too worried about sap, bugs and where the plant came from. Plus no more money or room to put more in the cage.
Placement – The cage is located on top of my filing cabinet in my office the cabinet is about 4 feet off of the ground and the cage is about 7 feet at the top. Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? The traffic is low it is just myself and an office mate the cham is above us most of the time. There is an air vent about four feet away that blows low throughout the day but does not make anything blow inside the cage. At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor? 7 feet from the floor at the top and 4 feet from the bottom of the cage.
Location – Northern California.

Current Problem – The current problem that I am having and think that I have under control is one eye and now two occasionally closed during the day. This started happening right after he shed. He kept a piece of skin on his forehead the longest and in fact it never rubbed off. He was blinking before removing the skin on his head but I waited for a week and then removed it with a piece of leaf. He is too young and is not used to human touch so this was the best way to do this without stressing him out too much and making him hiss at me. I researched through this forum and online about the possible causes. I found the following imperfections in my cage and made the corrections:
• To little shrubbery
• Not misting enough ( I bought an additional mister for this)
• Reduced his miner-all supplement to every other day (he started getting some accumulation from his nose)
In the research that I did I found, ordered and started applying to both eyes Terramycin (for four days). Since then I have stopped this as he does not blink any longer that I am seeing.

Overall I want to be sure that I handled this correctly and that I have the right setup. Please see pictures and set up. Let me know if there is something more that I can do.
 
Hey, The red light needs to go. Chameleons can see the light. This is probably why your cham is closing its eyes. Chams can handle nighttime temps in the low 60sF no problem. With a temp drop at night, they will actually sleep better.
Also a 100w light seems way too strong. The temp doesnt need to hit 95 at that age. When your chameleon hits the 6 month point, then maybe boost the temps. Aim for the lowest temp that creates a well digested stool. Try to keep the basking temp at 85 and if you could see bug parts in the poop, boost it up a bit. I use 60 or 40 watt incandescent house bulbs for my panthers and they work great. No need to spend extra cash on a reptile basking light. The 5.0 linear is a must though.
Are you using miner all with or without d3? If it is with d3, it would also be beneficial to buy a plain calcium to be offered at alternate feedings. If it is without d3, grab a calcium with d3. Depending on the product you end up grabbing, it could be formulated for a weekly or monthly dose.
If the urate is mostly white with a yellow or orange tip, thats ok.
Also most people perfer to use live plants. When you get the cash, maybe grab a little pothos, umbrella, or ficus. This will help the humidity quite a bit.
Maybe someone else could spot something that could be changed. All else looks good to me.
 
Sweet!!

Thanks for the review. I appreciate it. One thing that I learned from this all is that you have to anticipate well in advance before anything happens. I will kill the red light at night and be on the lookout for a live plant.
 
Yes, I would kill the red light. It's best to have no lights or heat sources at night as long as the enclosure temp doesn't drop below 60.

You should visit your local Home Depot - they usually have small pothos plants for as little as $2. I believe I got a small one there for $2 and a medium-sized one for $5. They're very cheap. You definitely need to wash them before you put them in with your chameleon though because pesticides are (obviously) very bad for their health. I just filled a bucket with warm soapy water (any dish soap other than Palmolive - supposedly it burns plant leaves), dunked the plants in upside-down and swished them around for at least 30 seconds, then rinsed them off really well. After that all you have to do is repot them in organic fertilizer-free soil and you're ready to go. If you want to be extra safe, it's best to put large stones on top of the soil to prevent your cham from accidently ingesting any sticks or anything that could cause impaction. It all seems like a hassle, but having live plants for your cham really is worth it. They help the humidity, are safe to be consumed (and veileds often do take a bite out of their plants), and from what I hear, chams just seem to thrive better with live plants.

Hope this helps!

Hillary
 
Plants.

The light is going off and I will definitely check the plant idea out. No trouble at all. I love the distraction.
 
IMHO you need to gutload your insects better...see further down in my post.

You can feed him as much as he will eat in a couple of minutes at each feeding for a while yet.
Is the Sticky tongue supplement indoor or outdoor?
See further down in my post for more about supplementing.

As was already said...you can let the red light go. If you have an appropriate UVB light and a regular incandescent household bulb in a domed hood that's all you need...and you only need the incandescent if the temperature in the cage isn't around 80F. Some spiral, compact and even long linear tube UVB lights can cause eye issues and health problems. You can read about it here...
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/

Regarding plants....veiled chameleons will often eat the plants so IMHO its best to use real non-toxic well-washed (both sides of the leaves) so there is no chance of the chameleon ingesting a fake leaf.

Here's some information I hope will help you with things like supplements, gutloading, etc..
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.

Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.

A wide variety of insects that have been well fed and gutloaded should be fed to it. At that size you only need to feed it every two or three days. Feed it enough that it doesn't get fat (and, of course, doesn't get thin either).

Since many of the feeder insects we use in captivity have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium). Not sure how to tell you to dust WC insects if that is what you will be doing.

If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).

Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)

Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)

Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.

Here are some good sites for you to read too...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.
 
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