baby veiled possibly not eating... not sure

jrjorgensen2519

New Member
Hello, I recently purchased a baby veiled chameleon about 2 days ago (Friday, the 24th of August) from petco. He doesn't really look unhealthy but I have yet to actually see him eat any of the tiny crickets I've been putting in his tank. I'm not sure if this is really an emergency situation, I'm just concerned and want to make sure I'm doing everything absolutely right because I care about my cham a lot! He also seems to be a tiny bit lethargic, when I pick him up and put him back down he doesn't seem to struggle moving around but once he gets back to his basking spot up there on the top of that vine (you can see in the photos) he moves very little from that spot all day...

Here are my known conditions:

Cage Info:

* Cage Type - A 10 gallon (all glass with a screen top) aquarium (for now, petco was unfortunately all out of wired cages and that's the only place near me that sells those kinds of accessories) There is a tiny amount of moss substrate on the ground but for the most part it's all just white paper towels.
* Lighting - I have a UVB light, "ESU Reptile Slimeline Reptile Fixture with Desert 7%UVB Lamp" I also have a heat lamp that is a 75watt "HGN Nightglo" light bulb. The schedule is that the lights are on for almost exactly twelve hours a day and then I turn both the heat lamp and the uvb light off at night and the temp only drops about ten degrees at night with no lights on.
* Temperature - Temp ranges from 80F during the day and around 70F during the night
* Humidity - Humidity levels are usually between 60% to 80%. I'm creating these humidity levels by misting with a hand bottle 3 to 4 times a day
* Plants - no, all of the plants you see are fake
* Location - the tank is located on top of my dresser, it's not near a very high traffic area, it's about ten feet away from a window, which is also where the air conditioner is (which is on very low)


Chameleon Info:

* Your Chameleon - I believe it's a male, veiled, and i'm not sure on age, less than a month old I believe.
* Feeding - I'm feeding him baby crickets, I throw 6 in every morning, but there are always more left in the tank from previous feedings so there are probably 10+ in there. My crickets are fed by potatoes that I replace every two days (granted I've only had them for two days so far...). I have half a potato cut into two smaller halves in my cricket cage, and the other half of the potato cut into two smaller halves in the cham cage.
* Supplements - I dust my crickets everytime I put them in the tank using ZooMed's Reptivite Reptile Vitamins. This particular mix contains the following vitamins, minerals, and electrolytes:
Vitamin's A, D-3, E, C, Folic Acid, Vitamin's B1, B2, Niacin, Vitamin's B6, B12, Biotin, and Pantothenic Acid, Calcium, Phosphorus, Iodine, Iron, Magnesium, Copper, Manganese, Sodium, Zinc, and Potassium. This formula also contains the following Amino Acids: L-Glutamine, L-Arginine, Isoleucine, Lysine, L-Leucine, L-Alanine, L-Cystine, L-Phenylalanine, L-Serine, L-Theronine, L-Tyrosine, L-Valine, Glycine, L-Methionine, L-Asparatic Acid, L-Glutamic Acid, and L-Histidine

* Watering - I mist the tank 4 - 5 times a day for an average of a minute. Covering every plant, the floor, the walls, and even himself in chlorine free water. I have never seen him drink but his eyes aren't deflated so I have my doubts about him being dehydrated. The blue thing in the center of the tank is a small dish of water that I have never seen him drink out of.
* Fecal Description - Brownish/Blackish and white, pretty solid feces, it's not runny or anything of the sort.
* History - He was at petco for an unknown amount of time, no previous owners, and they told me that they had started feeding him crickets (however, they did not say whether or not they had actually seen him eat any crickets)
* Current Problem - Several actually. First of all, I haven't seen him actually eating any crickets, I'm not sure if I'm feeding them to him right, and if I should feed him other things such as meal worms etc. If I should feed him meal worms as well, how should I present them to him (in a bowl, etc.) Also, what kind of feeding schedule should I put him on if not just putting half a dozen or so crickets in the tank every morning. I'm also curious about dripping systems, I have a small container of water in the tank that I never see him drink out of, should I rig a dripping system to drop water directly into this container of water, or should I drip the water somewhere else in the tank specifically? Also, plants, I only have fake plants, as a baby cham, should I give him any type of particular real plants? And I have also provided some photos (taken from a poor camera phone). Should I change my tank setup at all, and does my baby cham look healthy? I apologize for the long-winded post, and a sincere thank you very much to any body for any input, I have owned many reptiles in my past but never a chameleon and I've absolutely fallen in love with the guy so I want to do whatever is in my power to keep him not only a live but tip-top shape and health as well!

happy trails,
-jay
 

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I would use a plain light bulb and move it to the right side over the plants. A 75 watt bulb is to hot check temps under the bulb. If you replace the bulb make sure he cant get to close to it . I use one of those well being bulbs for my panther hatchlings when inside.
 
Do not use reptivite as your main supplement - use it at most twice a month.

Instead, use rep-cal (not reptocal or reptical), OR Miner-all I. USe that every other dya or so, lightly dusted on the crickets. For a multivitamin, use herptivite, once or twice a week.

The repitvite is ok once or twice a month - it has preformed vitamin A, which they do need, but not so often. The other vitamins I mentioned do not contain preformed vitamin A.

What size crickets are you feding im? It might be they are too big for him. Most pet stores do not carry crickets small enough for a <1 month old veiled.
 
From my research Chameleons will bask under a visible light, so even though you have a basking spot, it isn't visible light if it is a night bulb (I don't think).

I can't tell from the pictures if male or female. Look at the feet of the back legs. If you see a small spir there, it is a male.

It is fine to have fake plants in there now, but once the cham gets older you may want to replace them with real plants that are good for them because 1) they help with the humidity and 2) older vieled sometimes eat the plants and the fake ones will cause compaction.

It is important to try not to let there be any free-roaming crix in there overnight because they can eat your cham. There was someone on here a couple days ago trying to sell his cham that had been eaten that way. I, personally, prefer to use a feeder cup. It lets me keep track of how much is being eaten, but also keep them from getting loose.

As for drinking, chams don't go for still water. If you are misting that much it is good, because he/she may be drinking from the water on the leaves. I would recommend getting a little dripper (or big dripper). I know my Petco locally does sell them. They will give a slow drip over time. They will go after the movement of the dripping water to drink. I also put a lid to a tuperwear container under where the drip is to create a rippled puddle and he will sometimes drink from that (but the water is contantly in motion because of the drip).

Another thing, you have substrate in there (looks like sand??). I would get rid of that. If your cham goes for a cricket walking on the sand then he/she could digest some of that sand as well and create a problem.

Just my 3 cents... a little long winded for only 2!
 
Thank you all for the suggestions, the substrate is this moss stuff I bought at petco, supposedly not harmful if swallowed but I'll just go ahead and take it all out for now.

I'll go ahead and use those vitamins you suggested, as for the feeder, what kind of feeder (and where can I find one) that can be used for crickets? The crickets i'm using are all 1/4inch or smaller. Is that small enough?
 
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Howdy,

By any chance is there a clear plastic cover on the UVB tube fixture? If so then take it off. It's a manufacturer's error. Also, what make and model tube are you using in that fixture? If it is still an ESU brand then you'll want to replace it with a Zoomed Reptisun 5.0 as soon as you have the money ($14-$20).
 
lighting fixture

yes, there most definitely is a cover on it... I'll go ahead and take it off for a while and see how that helps.
 
As to crix food I use carrots, potatoes, and various greens. I also have water gels for something for them to get liquid from.

I do have a dry crix food as well. I bought that from mulberry farms.
 
Emphasizing importance of adding real plants in cage!

Hi!
Very important that you put a real plant in your cage (Ficus plants are highly recommended) because Veils do eat the leaves and it's a very important natural Vitamin A source for their overall health and well-being!!
Alternative: Keep the fake plant in cage and hang freshly washed collard green leaves among the branches for your Veil to chomp on. My Veil started eating collard green leaves at the age of 3/12 months old! You will notice the V marks along the edge of the leaves as a sign that he is indeed eating the live leaves!

Christine
 
He's young enough that you are ok with the glass tank for another month or so. You might want to build your own cage...remember veileds get big and need a sizable cage. Look on these forums to see other peoples cages ideas and designs. Many people here have built some really awesome cages.
 
I would also suggest a screen enclosure, which allows for some cross ventilation, which is vital for most chameleons. The glass terrarium that your chameleon is in now (especially with a high watt bulb) will become too hot and will definitely become a problem. I would strongly advise investing in a cage that contains at least 3 screen sides. The screen not only allows for vital cross ventilation, it also provides a stagnant free environment when misting.

-Cala-
 
It was already mentioned to you to move the basking light to one side of the cage...I agree with that.

You said..."My crickets are fed by potatoes that I replace every two days (granted I've only had them for two days so far...). I have half a potato cut into two smaller halves in my cricket cage, and the other half of the potato cut into two smaller halves in the cham cage"...I feed my crickets a variety of greens (dandelion, kale, collards, endive, escarole, ROMAINE lettuce (for moisture mostly), mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (potato, sweet potato, zucchini, sweet red pepper, carrots, squash, etc.).

Regarding supplements: Dusting the insects with a phosphorous-free calcium powder at most feedings helps to make up for the poor ratio of calcium to phos. in most of the insects we use as feeders.

I dust with a vitamin powder twice a month (one that contains a beta carotene source of vitamin A) to ensure that they get enough. Beta carotene sources of vitamin A won't build up in the system whereas preformed will. However, there is controversy as to whether chameleons can convert the beta carotene to vitamin A or not, so some people use one with preformed once in a while. Excess preformed vitamin A can prevent the D3 from doing its job and lead to MBD....so be careful not to overdo it.

I also dust with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder twice a month since my chameleons only get UVB from UVB tube lights and no/little sunlight. D3 from SUPPLEMENTS can also build up in the system, so be careful with it too.
(Exposure to UVB light from UVB lights or sunlight allows the chameleon to produce D3 which allows the chameleon to use the calcium in its diet.)

Appropriate basking temperature (80-85F is high enough for a baby veiled) allows for proper digestion thus absorption of nutrients from the diet.

Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are the four main players in bone health (and they play parts in other areas too) so they need to be in balance.

You said..."The blue thing in the center of the tank is a small dish of water that I have never seen him drink out of"...most chameleons won't drink out of a dish but I have seen a few learn to.

You said..."I haven't seen him actually eating any crickets, I'm not sure if I'm feeding them to him right, and if I should feed him other things such as meal worms etc. If I should feed him meal worms as well, how should I present them to him (in a bowl, etc.) Also, what kind of feeding schedule should I put him on if not just putting half a dozen or so crickets in the tank every morning"..I have raised quite a few baby chameleons using nothing but well-fed and gutloaded crickets for the first few months. IMHO he should be eating at least 10 or 20 crickets a day at a young age (depending on the size of the crickets). I generally put some in and let the chameleon eat as many as it can in a couple of minutes...this gives me an idea of how many I need to feed it each day. However, if yours is not eating well, you need to find out why. (Be aware that baby crickets can climb the glue in the corners of an aquarium so you can't just count and assume that any "missing" were eaten.)

You said..."I'm also curious about dripping systems, I have a small container of water in the tank that I never see him drink out of, should I rig a dripping system to drop water directly into this container of water, or should I drip the water somewhere else in the tank specifically?"...I never use a drip system with baby chameleons. Its too easy for them to aspirate water. I start using them when they are 4 or 5 months old.

You said..."Also, plants, I only have fake plants, as a baby cham, should I give him any type of particular real plants?"...fake are alright to start off with, but veileds may eat plants eventually so I use real ones that are non-toxic and well-washed (both sides of the leaves). They also eat dirt sometimes, so its usually advised that you cover the dirt with stones that are too big to be ingested (or some other suitable material). Once they are about 5 or 6 months old, they will/may eat some greens, veggies and a bit of fruit too. You can offer the same veggies and greens I listed for the crickets (except for the white potato...I just don't use it....no real reason) and a bit of apple, pear, melon or berries.

You said..."I have owned many reptiles in my past but never a chameleon and I've absolutely fallen in love with the guy so I want to do whatever is in my power to keep him not only a live but tip-top shape and health as well!"...they are definitely addictive!
 
Mine does the same thing, rarely eats crickets. They will walk right over him and he'll just watch it happen. So Ive been dusting and giving him mealworms. All I have to do is push part of the worm through the cage and he snaps it up in a matter of seconds out of my hand. I guess they just have different tastes for different things. Too bad because I have a tank full of crickets
 
My babies

My babies weren't eating and I went to the vet. She told be to feed them chicken baby food through a saringe with a pointy tip on it. I did that and now that one is eating. She was 8 days old before she ate on her own. Her sister ate 3-4 days old on her own. Also, I am using flightless friut flies not crickets yet.

How many do you have and how old are they?
 
I have just bought a baby veiled as well and He will do exactly the same he will sit on the branch right next to his UV strip bulb all day I dont even see him eat or drink, He has only been doing this for a few days now but this seems odd as he has been fine for the first 2 weeks (I Have Had Him For 3 Weeks Now). I did have a ceramic dark spot bulb providing his heat but I have just changed this for a 60W visible light for basking, does this sound O.K.
 
you might also want to move the cricket containers away from the side,it might be causing a glare and perhaps your cham can see his reflection thus causing him stress.
also i would add more vines on the other side. also what is the water dish for?
you need to have some kind of dripper for water on the top.
good luck
 
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