cyberlocc
Chameleon Enthusiast
If that's the case, a Herpstat 4 would be perfect. Especially for the cage you want under 80.
Basking help
- Thread starter snitz427
- Start date
If that's the case, a Herpstat 4 would be perfect. Especially for the cage you want under 80.
JoXie411
Chameleon Enthusiast
I try to keep my willsii cage in the love 70 but I know once summer comes in going to have challenges keeping him cooler.
I was looking at pangaeeptiles.com and came across this herpstat. They also have the intro one you were talking about
https://www.pangeareptile.com/store/herpstat-ez1.html
cyberlocc
Chameleon Enthusiast
Na, Herpstat 6 is like 350
it will run 6 cages.Also what some folks do with the snakes, is just run 1 or 2, so you could do like every other cage with a probe and the cage beside it uses the same outlet.
Then you could heat and cool all 6 with a HS6. If one cage is too hot, it's very likely the one beside it is too.
snitz427
Chameleon Enthusiast
Na, Herpstat 6 is like 350
Also what some folks do with the snakes, is just run 1 or 2, so you could do like every other cage with a probe and the cage beside it uses the same outlet.
Then you could heat and cool all 6 with a HS6. If one cage is too hot, it's very likely the one beside it is too.
My cages are in 2 diff rooms so I’d need 2 units, maybe even 3 eventually. Small price to pay and I’d have paid it 5 fold to not have burned my baby. Are you saying run an extension cord to run two heat lights off one herpstat outlet? I dont mind getting 2 herptstat 4 if it keeps everyone safe. If I need a 3rd I can use the extra outlets for humidity. So then the question is do I put out the extra $ and get 2 herpstat 6? Or 2 herpstat 4 and add a 3rd later?
cyberlocc
Chameleon Enthusiast
The probes are not that long. So that wouldn't work, they are only like 10ft cords for the probe.
If you have Chams in 2 rooms, I'd buy 2. If a room could handle more cages, I would just go to the 6 off the bat though, it's cheaper each outlet the higher you go.
snitz427
Chameleon Enthusiast
I wish i could have them together, it would make things so much eaiser, but the cages are too big and my house too small! I’ll get the 2 herpstat 4s and consider a small price to pay for security. Thanks for your help.
Futurechameleommom
Member
Depends heavily, on your needs and use case.
If your house, gets hot ALOT, because you don't use AC or your AC can't keep up frequently, then I would use a Dimming stat. Like a habistat or a herpstat.
These are better for controlling the heat. When they get close to the desired temp, they begin to dim the light to hold it there. As it gets past the point you wanted, they dim it substantially to lower the temp.
This is great because it maintains the spots tempature, and keeps the basking light avaible and pushing out light. In this situation you would set the stat, to your desired temp, or a degree or 2 higher again, when it's on the screen, that temp will be vastly different then actual basking temp.
So you should test accordingly, usually the bulb is good for what the bulb is good for. So when your house is 70, and the bulb raises the temp to 90 at the basking, and 110 at the screen, that's what the bulb is good for. 20 at the basking spot, and 20 higher at the screen. It may vary a couple degrees, as the temp rises, but in general this is a pretty good bet it will be close to the same.
If you just want an emergency situation, then that Zoomed will work great. So will the STC-1000.
The STC-1000 has the added benefit of having a cooling option as well. So it's a little digital module box, it requires some wiring but it's not too bad, just cut up some extension cords, and it's easy, I think they sell prewired models as well, if your scared to do that, but they cost a bit more.
The beauty of those, like I said is the cooling mode. So it's an on off stat, with a temp swing setting. So it has the ability, to say shut off the basking lamp, if the probe hits 120. Then you can wire an ac Fan (or a PC fan on a wall wart) to the cooling, and set that to come off if the temp hits 120, then you can tell it, if it hits 120, turn the fan on until it reaches, whatever temp, let's say 100 then re enable the basking light.
This is a great fail safe option for that reason, as not only does it shut off the basking if ambient raises too high, it will allow cooling of the cage, if the ambient keeps getting higher. This one, would be an emergency situation type stat, it will completely shut off the basking light, and you can set a swing, for when it will come back on. This is where you set it, a few degrees over basking, so it turns off the light in an emergency only.
The Herpstat can do the cooling as well, but you need a Herpstat 2, which is a great unit, I believe Becca has one. But they are pretty pricey.
I think the 2 or 4, and the 6, also has the ability to use a humidity probe, and with that you can set either scheduled timer (for like a mister) or make it come on, when humidity drops below a threshold it comes on, and then turns off when it reaches another level (or that level), or a mixture between the 2. That's great for Foggers, as you can set it to turn on the fogger, between X and Y time, if the humidity falls below Z, say 80% and run until it reaches 100 again. Then turn it off, till it hits 80 again. Great for conserving water
The Herpstat is the Lexus of thermostats, but the price reflects that lol.
Oh @snitz427 I thought you had a stat, by the comments. My apologies to @mkeBob I misunderstood the thread.
I bought this dimming thermostat. You think it will work well? It has good reviews
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CasqueAbove
Chameleon Enthusiast
I use this for my roaches and it works well.
